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Top Flight Triple Tube Bird Feeder with integrated dome guard that foils squirrels and protects seed from weather. Features heavy-duty acrylic seed tubes with copper armor on the seed ports to prevent damage from squirrels. Twelve feeding stations. Built-in seed funnel for easy filling. Quick-release seed tray simplifies cleaning. 10 lb seed capacity.With 12 feeding stations and a special design that keeps squirrels out, this elegant bird feeder is exclusively "for the birds." Made of heavy-duty acrylic and copper, this tube-shaped feeder has a built-in seed funnel and a removable tray-so there's no more spilling the seed all over the lawn. An integrated dome guard foils squirrels and protects seed from weather. The feeder also features acrylic seed tubes with copper- armored ports impervious to vandal squirrels. Measuring 23-1/2 by 12-1/2 by 12-1/2 inches, the feeder holds up to 10 pounds of seed. Covered by a manufacturer lifetime warranty, the feeder arrives ready to hang. --Brian

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Perky-Pet 7103-2 Copper Triple Tube Bird Feeder

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Trimming your cat's nails is a great way to:

Decrease damage to your furniture.

Prevent your cat's nails from getting caught in carpeting or other fabrics (which can result in injury from a torn claw).

Ensure that cuddling with your cat isn't painful when they're kneading!

Prevent injury to your other cats and yourself (and your clothes!) when engaged in play.

Additionally, as cats age, the outer sheaths of their nails don't loosen and shed as effectively as they do when they're young (those little translucent bits cat claw that you find sporadically around your home).

Older cats frequently suffer from ingrown claws if they're not trimmed - the claws become overgrown, start to curl under, and will pierce right through their digital pads and paws. Older cats need their nails trimmed!

Nail trimming may seem like a daunting task, and indeed it may never be a procedure that your cat will relish, but nonetheless it's quite feasible with some practice and a little training. Unless your cat goes outdoors and requires their claws for self defense, it truly is best to keep your cat's claws trimmed at a moderate length.

When possible, training your cat to tolerate 'pet'-icures should be done starting from kittenhood. However, even if you adopt your cat at a more mature age, it's still possible to train your cat to better tolerate manipulation of their paws. The more practice you get at trimming your cat's claws, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect. As you become more proficient at this task, the event will become less stressful for your cat. The less stressful nail trimming becomes, the less they'll protest and, as a result, it will become even easier to accomplish.

Paw Manipulation

Start training your cat to accept having their paws handled and manipulated one or two weeks before you actually trim their claws.

While cuddling and stroking your cat, begin to touch their paws, including both the digital pads and the nails, and occasionally unsheathe the claws.

When your cat doesn't resist the paw manipulation, praise them and reward generously with treats!

Practice this every day with all four paws, and once your cat is relatively comfortable with having their paws touched, then attempt the first actual nail trim.

Restraint & Physical Approach to Nail Trimming

It's important to know that frequently 'less is more' with cats when it comes to restraint.

Many owners are (understandably) anxious about restraining their cats and about ensuring that they can't get away from them while they are trimming their claws. However, when less restraint is used, cats are less likely to wish to escape.

One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that doesn't increase their stress levels, is by making a 'kitty burrito.' (Ultimately, it's best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it's acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)

A 'kitty burrito' is made by placing a towel on the floor, placing your cat on the towel in a lying down position, and then wrapping the towel around your cat like a present, or a burrito. Then you can sit with your cat parcel on the floor between your knees or in your lap!

Remove one paw at a time from the burrito for nail trimming.

If not using the 'burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is facing away from you; approach your cat from behind so that you are then working with your cat facing away from you.

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This can be done while your cat is on a table or on the floor, but generally speaking it's much easier to accomplish the nail trim when sitting on the floor with your cat.

Drape your arms over either side of your cat's chest in order to prevent them from running away. Your cat is facing away from you so they'll be unable to back away (because they will back into you).

This position means that your cat can neither run forward nor backward, and it allows you to easily manipulate their front paws.

When you are trimming your cat's left hind paw claws, turn your kitty slightly so that they are oriented to the right.

it is easiest to keep your right arm draped across your cat's neck and side of their chest (left) that is facing away from your body, and the clippers in your right hand.

Your left arm should be draped across the hind end of your cat, the side of your cat (left) which is facing away from you, and the (left) hind paw grasped in your left hand.

When you're trimming your cat's right hind paw claws, you reverse what you did above. Orient your cat to the left, drape your left arm across the front of your cat's neck and right side of their chest, and drape your right arm across your cat's right rear limb.

Since your right hand will be holding the clippers and doing the nail trimming, you will have to extend your left arm further across your cat's body so that you can grasp the left rear paw with your left hand.

Some cats need almost no restraint whatsoever for the 'pet'-icure procedure, but for many kitties having their nails trimmed is objectionable, and not the equivalent of a relaxing human pedicure!

Types of Nail Trimmers

There are three main types of nail trimmers:

Guillotine type nail trimmers

Scissor type nail trimmers

Human nail clippers

Human fingernail clippers are often the easiest type of nail trimmers to used in cats.

Where to Trim the Claws

In order to clip your cat's claws you gently squeeze each toe between your thumb and forefinger to unsheathe the claws.

You'll notice that your cat's claws are likely clear in color - this is a very handy characteristic of most cats' claws, because you can easily observe the "quick," or the pink, vascular, and innervated portions of the claws.

Some cats do have darker (black) colored claws, which does make it more difficult to know where to trim... it's always best to err on the side of caution when it comes to dark claws and position the clippers conservatively!

Clip your cat's nails approximately 2 mm away from the quick.

If you accidentally clip your cat's nail at the quick, it will be painful and will bleed, which may cause your cat to be more averse to having their nails trimmed again in the future.

Fortunately, there is no reason to panic about the bleeding; the bleeding will stop on its own in about five minutes, or, if you have silver nitrate (styptic) pencils or powder handy you can stop the bleeding by rubbing the tip of the pencil on the end of the bleeding claw.

However, styptic pencils/powder can cause a stinging sensation while being applied so many cats object to it's use.

Holding & Using the Clippers

When positioning the clippers to cut claws, the cutting action should occur from the sides of the claws.

The cutting shouldn't occur on the top and bottom of the claws because this crushes the claws, which makes trimming them more uncomfortable because they can splinter painfully.

If using human nail clippers the two blades should be gripping the sides of the claws.

If using scissor type trimmers, the same principle applies - the blades should be positioned on the sides of the nails.

If using guillotine type trimmers, the blade should be facing you, rather than your cat.

The screws on the trimmer should be facing your cat.

If this position is reversed, and the cutting blade is facing your cat, you may accidentally cut through the quick.

The claw tip should be placed into the hole of the guillotine and the handles of the trimmers can be facing downward or upward toward the ceiling, whichever position is most comfortable for you. To then cut the claws, squeeze the handles together and this action causes the blade to advance through the claws.

Dewclaws

Don't forget the dewclaws when trimming your cat's nails!

Dewclaws are your cat's vestigial 'thumbs' and are located on the inside aspect of each front limb, just a couple centimeters up from their paws.

Dewclaws don't get worn down with usage like your cat's other claws do, so if neglected dewclaws easily become ingrown - they start to curl under, growing around in a circular shape, and then they proceed to pierce right through their legs, causing severe pain and infection.

Cats do not have dewclaws on their hind limbs.

Polydactyly

Don't forget to trim all extra claws if your cat is a polydactyl!

Extra claws are particularly difficult to trim, and you may want to bring your cat to your veterinarian so that you don't risk accidentally cutting your cat while attempting to trim them.

However, if you feel comfortable trimming your cat's extra nails, and have the technique mastered, then continue to do so - trimming these extra claws is very important since like the dewclaws, they can easily become overgrown and start growing into your cat's paw.

Hind Paw Claws

Hind paw claws generally do not need to be trimmed as frequently as front paw claws. Similarly to our own toe nails, they don't seem to grow as fast, and they also get ground down more than front claws from regular daily activities.

Post Nail Trim

Don't forget to have lots of treats beside you for when the 'pet'-icure is finished! Lots of praise and positive attention will help to enforce that cooperating with the nail trimming process will pay off in the form of goodies and TLC!

Like anything else, the more practiced you become, the easier the claw trimming will be, and the fewer objections your cat will make.

If you have any concerns or feel that your technique needs more refinement, look at our practice video and then try again when you and your kitty are relaxed.

To read more of Dr. Ko's articles, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

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Question by Aneleh: How do Cats and Dogs know which is cat food and which is dog food?
I have 2 cats and three dogs. One night, I ran out of cat food (the dry type) and my cats were hungry. So since I had dog food only and the shops were closed, I gave them dog kibbles. They're more or less of the same shape and size and are made of the same ingredients - chicken. My cats took a nibble and refused the rest of the bowl, preferring to go hungry than eat dog food. The next day, i got them a fresh pack of made-for-cats kibbles and they immediately dived in and ate up. How come my cats knew what I gave them wasn't cat food?

I also know of dogs that won't eat cat food for the long run (not mine though, cos they're pigs and will eat anything).

It would be good if a pet food manufacturer can answer this question. Is there some special ingredient you put in cat and dog food that makes cats and dogs know which kibbles is who's? Also, nowadays, dogs are eating fish too - like salmon. You can't say it's the ingredient. How come they know the difference?

Best answer:

Answer by jemima
They don't is the simple answer. I've fed my cat dog food and although she wasn't too keen on it, she ate it. I think it's to do with the density and bulk of the meat. If I mash the dog food for her she eats it. The dog just eats!!!

Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!

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How to Cut Your Cat’s Nails

Did you know dogs scratching excessively can be signs of other problems with your dog's health? To start, you should be aware that a dog's skin is more sensitive than a human's. Frequent scratching can be signs of fatigue, changes in life-style, stress and can become even worse when compounded with the ensuing problems such as fur loss, welts, and punctures due to the constant biting and scratching. If left untreated, your dog can develop severe problems such as hot spots, which are patches of skin that have become infected with bacteria and can be difficult to heal. You can bet on costly veterinary bills and, more importantly, sever discomfort for your dog (not to mention the discomfort of a bite collar).

Common problems that cause dogs to scratch excessively are parasites, fungal infections, sub-standard grooming products, and allergies.

Parasites are ultimately one of the most common causes of , and ultimately, dog scratching. Fleas, knits, and ticks are the most common culprits. Most of these parasites do their dirty deeds by biting the host and living off of the blood from the bite. The bites themselves are generally not what cause the itching. Itching is caused by salivary secretions and the enzymes in the saliva. Fleas are the easiest to spot, but there are other types of parasites that can dwell further in the hair follicles.

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Fungal infections associated with excessive scratching are more sever and can be harder to detect and treat. They can infect a dog's entire body and can spread to humans. The main symptoms are skin flaking, scaling, inflammation and infection. are generally more common during humid times of the year where your dog is on contact with warm, humid conditions that are ideal for bacterial growth. If left untreated, both you and your dog's health may be at stake.

If you use too strong an animal shampoo, you could inadvertently cause your dog to scratch more than they did before. As previously mentioned, dog skin is more sensitive than human skin. Using the wrong type of shampoo can cause dryness, irritation, rashes and infection. Most pet shampoos are a mixture of water, detergents, dyes and chemical additives which could cause your dog discomfort if they are sensitive to such irritants.

is one of the most common dog itching and scratching causes. Just like on humans, when skin is low in essential fatty acids, Omega-3s, and moisture it can itch. Good grooming products help with replenishing your dog's natural reserves of these crucial components. On the opposite side of the scale, cheap, strong products can actually strip your dog's skin of the essential components it needs to remain healthy and moist and soft.

Allergens can cause some of the most severe reactions in dogs. Detergents, dyes, chemicals, dusts, pollens and molds can contribute to dry skin and irritation. Just like certain types of detergents or dyes can cause a human to break into hives or rashes, the same rings true for our doggie counterparts.

Don't forget, like humans, dogs can be subject to many different causes where the effects are the same symptoms. Bathing your dog too often can strip essential oils as well as using the wrong type of bathing products. Your best bet in preventing dry skin and dog scratching is using mild, that are certified cruelty-free testing and guarantee no ill side-effects.

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Question by Champion: dOG!?!?!?!?
THERES A RATWILER IN MY HOUSE....HE ATE MY SOFA, I RAN AWAY AND HE RIPPED MY SHIRT AND ATE MY SHOES. HE WAS CHASIN AFTER ME AND THE FRICKIN THING GOT STUCK IN MY PIANO??!? WHAT DO I DO NOW.....THE THING IS BARKIN AT ME, I THINK HE WANTS TO KILL ME. MY PIANO IS PLAYING CUZ HES MOVING IN THERE...MY GRANDMA IS SCREAMIN....OMG

Best answer:

Answer by jean l
Call the police now.Animal control will handle this for you.

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Choosing a pet bird is very different compared to shopping for clothes. This is because it requires a lot of commitment to make sure that this creature will get all the love and care that it needs so consider a few things when you decide to go to the pet store.

Birds come in all sizes. There are big ones and there are small ones. Just remember, that the bigger they are, the bigger also the commitment in keeping it. Bigger birds are louder and messier so if you are not up for that, better stick to a small or medium sized bird.

Some birds can come out of the cage while there are those that should always be locked up. Two distinct examples of birds which best illustrate this is the African Grey and the Canary. Although you may not get either of the two, part of choosing a bird is based on their behavior and temperament.

Another thing you should know about birds is that some of these can chirp, sing and even talk. While some of these are noisy there are others that only talk on occasion.  

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Pet birds have special diets. While some eat pellets, there are others that require fruit, nectar and pollen. If you don’t mind spending a little more to feed your birds, then it will not be a problem in choosing a bird with such needs.

Aside from special diets, ask yourself do you want a pet bird that requires a lot of attention or one that is low maintenance? People who are too busy with work and other responsibilities should get one that is easy to care for otherwise there is no point in buying one.

When you go out looking for a pet bird, give some consideration to where you are buying it. While most will choose to go to a pet store, you can also find one by talking to a breeder or from private persons. Regardless of where you get it, find out if whoever is selling it can assure you that the facility is free from communicable diseases like bird flu and other infections?

The biggest issue that you have to consider when choosing a pet bird is how much you are willing to spend for it. Buying a pet bird is one thing but there are other things you have to invest in like their cage, food and veterinary care.

Before buying the pet bird, have it checked by a veterinarian because they know better when it comes to the health of these creatures. If it is alright with the owner, pay them first with a post dated check for the next day so whatever happens, you can make a decision whether or not to get it.

As you can see, there are a lot of factors that you have to consider when you decide to get a pet bird. Once you have figured out the right one, you will undoubtedly enjoying having it around.

To ensure that it is healthy all the time, the pet bird you decide to get should not only be fed but also given some attention because this could be a very food friend.

So take the time out to do some research before choosing one from the pet store. With the right information, you will not regret buying this pet bird on the spur of the moment.

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Choosing a Pet Bird

• Floating fish pellet; Formulated to meet the nutritional needs of various tropical and marine fish
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Hagen Nutrafin Max Tropical Fish Pellet, 2.82-Ounce

• Interactive dog toy provides multi-sensory appeal to keep your pet engaged
• Durable non-toxic material withstands prolonged play
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• For dogs over 40 pounds
• Treats sold separately

Busy Buddy Tug-A-Jug Treat Dispenser Dog Toy The Busy Buddy Tug-A-Jug Treat Dispenser Dog Toy, from Premier, is the ultimate interactive toy! The Tug-A-Jug provides a multi-sensory appeal to keep your dog interested and motivated to play by stimulating your pet's sense of sight, smell, hearing, touch and taste. Fill the Tug-A-Jug with their favorite treats or put a twist on meal time and fill with their favorite food. This is a smart dog toy that will feed your dog's stomach and mind. Features: · See through plastic bottle to view treats inside · Scent holes to allow the dog to smell the treats · Textured rubber wrap and rope features cleans teeth and gums · Designed for ultimate interactive enjoyment · Training guide and game tips included Item Specifications: Size: Small- 17" (rope extended) 8.5" (base height) 10.5" (base circumference) Recommended for smaller breeds, under 40 pounds (Beagle, Cocker Spaniel, Sheltie) Large- 20" (rope extended) 10" (base height) 13.5" (base circu

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Click Here For Info About Premier Busy Buddy Tug-A-Jug, Medium/Large

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Premier Busy Buddy Tug-A-Jug, Medium/Large

People who want a bird as a pet are intrigued by parrots, especially with how smart they are There are to many birds and species to keep count of on earth. These winged creatures are one of the top choices of people to watch and house. The energy and diversity of color, funny antics and weird behavior make them very entertaining to observe and it is a natural thing to like them. Birds can be found everywhere such as continents, islands and floating in the seas. The popularity of birds is self evident by the membership of the bird clubs such as the Audubon Society and others that top one million participants. These clubs have people that belong to them that will do anything they can to promote and educate the pet bird owner.

Having a pet bird puts you at number 4 on the list as far as pet ownership goes. A bird as a pet will keep you company, although you have to have it in you to be able to care for a pet bird. You have to take into consideration many factors before taking the plunge into bird ownership. Getting a bird that fits the way you live your life is one of the most important steps. There are a few species of birds that need to be entertained every day with things such as toys and people playing with them. The size of the bird you chose for a pet depends on how much disruptive behavior you can tolerate. The bigger birds like parrots will be noisey and peck at anything, including your furniture. The reason for this behavior is that in the wild, parrots chew on sticks from trees through out the day. If you do not pay attention to your parrot, they may go psyco and behave in a problematic way. A general rule is that the bigger the pet bird you get, the it will destroy. Your pet bird will not destroy your things as long as it is kept busy and you pay attention to him or her.

Out in their natural habitat, parrots are social creatures. They do not like to be alone. What food you will have to feed your bird, personality and behavior are all things to look for when purchasing a bird. For the first time bird owner, a small bird is recommended. The bigger ones take a lot more work. You will want to take into account the life span of the bird you are going to buy. Some of these creatures live for a really long time. You have to be willing to take care of your feathered friend for years and maybe even decades. Think about all these things before taking the plunge into bird ownership. The more you find out about the pet bird before you buy, the better. The decision to get a pet bird could make you change some things in your life.

So do your research. A pet bird can be a good companion.

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Chosing A Pet Bird

Katy's Tropical Fish is the complete guide to keeping healthy, happy, long-lived tropical fish. The manual itself consists of over 100 pages of comprehensive information and full-color diagrams, and covers all aspects of setting up a tropical fish aquarium from scratch: preparing it, placing it, stocking it, cleaning it, and maintaining a sustainable, stress-free, and healthy environment for the fish. 

A tropical aquarium is (to the uninitiated, at least) a surprisingly delicate balance of conflicting factors: everything has to be just so in order for the fish to survive and cohabit with each other peacefully. There are a lot of different considerations to bear in mind in the long run – Katy's Tropical Fish - A Complete Guide tells you everything you need to know to keep a well-maintained aquarium, swimming with beautiful fish, for a minimum of cost, effort, and time-investment.

This manual tells you literally everything you need to know about acquiring and maintaining your tank of healthy, happy tropical fish. One of the main selling-points of the book, as far as I'm concerned, is that it's a complete guide: literally all the information necessary to set up your own aquarium is included (and how to do it quickly, too – Katy tells you how to do it inside of 24 hours), as well as long-term maintenance tips on how to keep everything fresh and looking good.

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In addition to this, there's also identification and treatment advice on some of the more common ailments suffered by tropical fish (including White Spot, Velvet and Fin Rot), which will save time and money at the vet's (not to mention potential heartbreak); information and troubleshooting tips on how to grow healthy aquatic plants; and time- and money-saving information on recommended products, which products aren't recommended (and why), and aquarium care. And all of this is in clear, easily-understandable language, too – which is a real relief, especially after trying to wade through some of the terminology-packed alternatives available on the market!

You get considerable bang for your buck with Katy's Tropical Fish Guide – not only do you get the complete, fully-illustrated guide itself, which is an exhaustive guide to everything you need to know about keeping tropical fish, but you also get:

- the downloadable video, Secrets to Tropical Fish Success, which guides you through the set-up of a professional-quality tropical aquarium (regardless of your budget)

- the bonus book Buying Compatible Freshwater Fish, which is a complete guide to the compatibility of a variety of freshwater fish which you may wish to add to your tropical aquarium

- the bonus book Introduction to Freshwater Plants, packed with useful information on the importance and care of plants in your aquarium

- the bonus book Choosing the Right Marine Fish, a complete guide to choosing and caring for marine fish (a wide selection of tropical saltwater fish are covered)

Something I found particularly useful was the free, private email consultation with the Kingdom of Pets tropical fish team. If, after reading the books and watching the video, you should have any unanswered questions, all you have to do is send an email – and you'll receive a reply back in no time at all (the rapidity of customer service is another gratifying aspect of this product), straight from the tropical-fish experts themselves. This consultation is valued at 0, but for some strange reason it's currently being given away completely free!

In addition, I always find it very reassuring when a company or author is confident enough of the quality of their product to offer a no-questions-asked 100% refund, should a customer (for whatever reason) not be completely satisfied with their purchase. From a consumer's perspective, this safety-net does a lot to assuage any (hypothetical, as it turns out) doubts that I may have had.

I can't see how you can possibly go wrong with this. After trawling through the other products available on the market, I have to say that Katy's Tropical Fish – A Complete Guide has to be the leader in the field (and I'd say the author knows it too, since she promises to give it away for free if you can find a better-value guide anywhere on the Internet!).

If you've got a tropical aquarium, or are thinking of obtaining one, this guide (Katy's Tropical Fish) is definitely for you – there's no doubt about it.

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Katy’s Tropical Fish

If perhaps you notice that your dog won't eat you have to become acquainted with the natural social intuition of a pack, canines will typically to be inclined to enjoy food when it is presented. Although when inserted in a home-based environment where owners seize fulfillment from indulging their dogs it is totally obvious that you have developed your dog into a fussy eater, and there's no speculation why your dog won't eat. There is 100 % nothing to be worried about in the event that the dog won't eat a meal or two, but yet if you become aware of that they haven't eaten for the entire day specially for two days in a row then there is a cause for worry.

Details to look for when your dog won't eat

The first thing that needs to be ruled out before there is any real worry is to make certain that the dog hasn't purely grown tired of his standard food, to verify for this is truly straightforward, just present them with a mixture of different foods, boil some chicken, a hot dog, rice, present it to them as an alternative to their routine diet, if the dog doesn't eat it then it may be somthing more than just your dog being a drama queen. It will need to be noted that when you are presenting your dog various foods not to treat them too much or the absence of appetite could perhaps turn into a diarrhea issue as your dog won't be able to deal with the nutrition.

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What exactly to do if the dog won't eat

Right here are a couple queries to help interpret the issue

Is your dog an dynamic pocket thief? In case you find that your dog is a master of stealth, it will probably be that his loss of appetite will certainly be because he steals food from here and there, now this will probably not actually mean the dog is in danger but it is absolutely a habit that must be broken, otherwise soon enough your dog will snap up something more dangerous, and the dog won't eat ever again.

Has the dog had any queasiness and or gagging epidemics? If you discover this to be true a trip to the vet is instructed, the cause of the nausea will need to be looked at via a blood check, or ultra sound, and if this is the case this is undoubtedly why you dog wont eat.

Have you just lately fed the dog something new or too much? This can certainly purely mean your dog is still digesting the new diet as it is something his body will have to get used to, just be patient if this still persists then aks yourself the above questions again.

When to take a visit to the vet?

If your dog won't eat for a strong twenty four hours then it may possibly be time to go to the vet, x ray and ultra sounds can be performed to find the cause of the condition.

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Why doesn’t the dog eat?

So, you and your cat are back home after a visit to the vet. You have two bottles of medication in your hand and instructions to medicate your cat three times (eek!) per day. You aren't quite sure how your cat will feel about this plan. You anxiously glance at your kitty, now curled up comfortably on the couch. Kitty opens one eye which boldly stares back at you ... the look in kitty's eye is unmistakable. It says, "just you try to medicate me, Human. By the time you've made your last futile attempt, YOU will be the one needing a visit with the doctor and some medication." But, don't panic! There are lots of tricks available to help you medicate your cat in an effective, relaxed, and danger-free manner!

Pill pockets work best for food motivated kitties
They come in two tasty flavors, salmon and chicken
Pill pockets are hollow, soft treats into which you place the tablet or capsule and then ‘mush' the opening of the pill pocket closed so that the medication does not fall out
Disadvantages to pill pockets are that cats that are not food motivated are unlikely to voluntarily eat them
Another disadvantage is that if your cat accidentally bites into the pill pocket and tastes an unpalatable medication inside, they will be unlikely to ever be fooled by pill pockets again!  Also, some cats will learn to eat all around the pill, consuming just the pill pocket and leaving the medication behind.

►    

For long term medication options, flavored chewable treats are a very pleasant option
Medicated chews need to be compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and do tend to be more expensive than the regular drug
Compounding flavored chews works best for medications that are not particularly strong tasting and unpleasant, otherwise cats may still detect the taste of the medication and reject the chew treat (ie. many antibiotics cannot be successfully made into flavored chews)
To figure out what flavor your cat prefers before ordering a large quantity of medicated chews, ask your veterinarian to try non-medicated samples: generally flavored chews come in varieties such as tuna, chicken, liver, shrimp, seafood medley, and beef

Flavored medications in liquid form also need to be specially compounded by your veterinarian's compounding pharmacy, and are also available in a variety of flavors palatable to cats
Many people find liquids easier to administer to their cats than pills

►   

Many medications come in liquid form as well as pill form
Liquids are not necessarily any more tasty in comparison to their pill counterpart (most are sweetened for human consumption and are banana or cherry flavored – since cats cannot taste sweetness, all that they taste is the flavor of the medication itself), but many owners find liquids easier to administer than pills
Ask your veterinarian if there is a liquid form of the medication they have prescribed if you are having trouble giving your cat the pill form
Keeping the liquid in the fridge (unless the medication specifically cannot be kept at such a cool temperature) may help decrease the distastefulness of the medication and make it less unpleasant for your cat to swallow

Many medications have very strong, unpalatable tastes - when these medications are prescribed in tablet form they can be particularly unpleasant, and often chalky, for cats to swallow
Particularly when a medication is being administered long term, placing tablets into clear, flavorless gel capsules can be an excellent idea – your cat will likely resent the entire procedure much less if it does not involve an unpleasant taste that makes he or she salivate for ten minutes afterwards
Clear gel capsules can typically be obtained at your veterinarian's office, and if they are not routinely kept in hospital, then they can likely order some in particular for you
Some tablets may be too large to fit inside the gel capsules, so you may want to purchase a pill splitter at your pharmacy in order to cut up the tablets into halves or quarters that will fit more easily into the gel caps
The drawback to using gel capsules is that they start to dissolve as soon as they touch moisture – ie. as soon as they are inside your cat's mouth!
So, the key here with gel capsules is to ensure that you have your pilling technique finessed and to always have extra water syringes nearby so that you can flush the capsule down with more water if needed (ie. if the capsules becomes ‘stuck' to your cats tongue or roof of the mouth)

:

It is  to everything you need  to gobefore you approach your kitty to administer their medication.
Have your pills ready on your right side (or if you are left-handed, have them on your left side).
Have your 

It is unfair and unsafe to assume that cats can swallow their medication without the help of water, and this is a topic that is all too often neglected when educating owners on how to medicate their cats.
– in fact, 

The esophagus is a very thin, delicate tissue, and it is not protected from caustic substances by a thick mucus layer as the thick, tough stomach walls are.
This means that when medications dissolve within the esophagus, as they do when cats are forced to dry swallow them, the .
Unfortunately, your cat cannot alert you to the fact that this is happening, and that they are experiencing painful ‘heartburn,' but it is the reality of forcing them to swallow medications without water – most cats will simply withdraw after being pilled, and many owners assume that this is a result of the stress of the pilling event, and do not recognize it as an expression of pain.

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It is important to know that frequently with cats when it comes to restraint and physical manipulation.
The more practice you get at administering medications to your cat, the easier it will become. So have patience, and remember that practice will make perfect.
the less protestation they will make, and as a result it will become even easier to accomplish.

Occasionally owners are anxious about restraining their cats and ensuring that their kitty cannot escape while they are administering their medication(s).
One method of restraining your cat effectively and in a manner that does not increase his or her stress level, is by making a  (Ultimately, it is best if minimal restraint is used, but during the learning curve, it is acceptable to ensure that your cat cannot escape from you and further complicate the process.)

To use the ‘kitty burrito' technique, follow these steps:
Place a towel on the floor in front of you.
Place your cat on the towel so that they are lying down (upright), facing away from you.
Wrap the towel around your cat just like you would wrap a present or a burrito, leaving your cat's head uncovered, but both forelimbs snugly tucked inside the towel.
Place your feline 'burrito' on the floor between your knees facing away from you.

Cats enjoy feeling snug and secure, and wrapping them in a towel will decrease the amount of struggling they will do.

If not using the ‘burrito' technique, simply ensure that your cat is .
This can be done while your cat is on a table, or on the floor, but generally speaking it is easiest when accomplished sitting on the floor with your cat.

Place so that they do not run away while you are getting organized.
The reason you want your cat to be facing away from you is because this way they have nowhere to back into (because they will back into you), and with one hand lightly on their chest, they cannot run away either.

Gently 
Place your left hand (that was previously on your cat's chest) under their chin and apply slow and steady pressure in an upward motion.

When your cat is looking up at you, place your right index fingertip between your cat's lips and you will be able to feel a gap between their upper and lower jaws where there is a space between their teeth
The space is just behind their canine teeth and in front of their premolars.
If you poke your finger in this small space, your cat will automatically open up their mouth.

When your cat opens their mouth for that split second, with your right hand (which has the pill ready), pop the pill as far back into the throat as possible.

Many people prefer the standard cat pilling technique.
With your left hand grasp your cat's upper jaw and gently pull their head (and upper jaw) upward.
Your thumb is placed on the right upper jaw while your index and middle finger hold your cat's left jaw.
Your fingers should be just behind your cat's canine teeth when grasping their upper jaw.

With your right hand pick up your cat's pill between your thumb and forefinger, and then placed your middle finger  on the front aspect of your cat's lower jaw.
Your middle finger is used to pry your cat's jaws apart by placing it on your cat's lower incisors - cats' incisors are small and dull, so you will not be injured by this maneuver.

Apply gentle but steady pressure on your cat's lower jaw until their mouth is open.
With your cat's mouth open, quickly drop the pill as far back as you can to the base of the tongue.

The traditional technique requires a bit more physical manipulation, which is why I prefer the previous technique ("My Favorite Technique").

Many people are hesitant when it comes to the "dropping the pill down to the base of the tongue" part of pilling their cats, and understandably so! If you fear for the safety of your fingers, or your kitty is simply a pro at preventing you from placing the pill far enough inside their mouth, then the pill popper may quickly become your favorite new acquisition.
The pill popper is a long, thin plastic tube with a rubber tip on one end and a stylet inside of it.
Place the pill inside the rubber tip.
Use either technique to open your cat's mouth, and then gently insert the pill popper into your cat's mouth and push the stylet.
The stylet handle is on the opposite end of the pill popper from the rubber tip and, when pushed, it pops the pill out of the rubber tip and into your cat's mouth.

It takes practice to gain the confidence required to pop the pill all the way to the base of the tongue in your cat's mouth!
It is normal to feel slightly skittish about sticking your fingers so far in there, but the more you practice, the less frightening it will seem, and you will quickly come to appreciate why the pills must be placed all the way back there; they will not be spat out!

So don't worry if pilling your kitty doesn't come naturally at first ... both you and your cat will grow accustomed to the routine with time and practice.

Now that the pill is successfully (hopefully!) at the back of your cat's mouth, place your left hand back underneath their chin and apply gentle upward pressure .
Your cat's jaw must remain parallel to the floor because if your cat gets their head down, they can spit out their pill more easily.
With the lower jaw held gently closed, and their head parallel to the floor or slightly upturned, pill expulsion is less likely to occur.

With your right hand, grasp the filled water syringe, and gently place the tip between your cat's lips.
The syringe tip does not actually need to be forced into the oral cavity between your cat's teeth.
Simply depress the plunger gently with the tip of the syringe resting on the lower lip, and your cat will do the rest and swallow it, rather than allow the water to dribble all over their impeccable fur!

My personal preference is to use 3 ml syringes.
Some people prefer the 1 ml syringes rather than the slightly bulkier 3 ml syringes.

The syringe tip which is placed between the lips should always be small and unobtrusive.
If the tip is bulky, your cat may resist its presence.
Syringe tip shape, length, and width may vary somewhat depending on the brand and size of the syringe.

One of my favorite tricks is to use teat canulas on the ends of my water syringes!
Teat canulas are meant for cow udders.
Teat canulas are thin, flexible, elongated plastic tips that can be placed on the ends of the syringes … they are smaller, longer, and softer than the tips of the syringes, so they make great extension tips for giving water or liquid medications orally to cats!

I generally administer the entire syringe-full of water when giving pills, even if my kitty has already swallowed the pill down after the initial depression of the plunger.
It is far better to administer a little more water than necessary than not quite enough!

It's essential that you have enough water-filled syringes present in case you need extra!
Sometimes even the best of pill administrators flub up, so it's handy to be near a water bowl with which you can refill your syringes in case the first pill was expelled and a new pill needs to be given!

You can encourage your cat to swallow the pill by using your right hand to gently stroke your cat's throat - this stimulates the swallowing reflex.

After your cat has successfully swallowed the pill(s), give lots of praise, cuddles, and some of their favorite treats, so that they make a positive association with the event.
In time, it is possible that your cat may even come running on cue (or, at the very least, won't run away!) when they hear the medication cupboard being opened, or the pills rattling in the pill vial, because they know that there will be tasty treats coming their way post-medication!

Do NOT mix your cat's medication into their food for several reasons:
Many medications taste unpleasant, and typically the flavor of the medication in your cat's food will simply turn them off of a food that they previously enjoyed.
Putting the pill in food or crushing it and mixing it into food is a very unreliable manner of medicating your cat, unless you are then immediately syringing it as a slurry into your cat's mouth.
If you have other pets in the house, they may end up ingesting the medication and it may not be safe for the other pets in your home.

Do not EVER place your cat in dorsal recumbency in order to administer liquid medications – ie. do not cradle your cat like a baby in order to syringe liquid into their mouth!
This position makes it difficult for cats to swallow properly, and makes it very easy for them to aspirate the administered liquid into their lungs, instead of swallowing it down their esophagus.
I have seen cats suffer from aspiration pneumonia as a result of liquid medications being administered in this manner.

Administer liquid medications the same way you would administer the water post-pill placement.
Push the plunger slowly and gently, allowing your cat ample time to swallow the liquid.
Keep your left hand (or your right hand if you are left-handed) under their chin in order to keep it closed, and ensure that the jaw is parallel to the floor so that they do not spit or drool out the liquid.

To read this article at www.catdoctorko.com please click here.

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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How to Give Your Cat Pills

Visiting the vet can be a stressful event for many kitties, but by using a few easily applied techniques you can substantially decrease your cat's anxiety levels. The following are some tips that will make trips to the veterinary clinic much more pleasant!

►  Not all communities have feline specific veterinary clinics, but if you do live in a region in which there are cat clinics, it's imperative that you take advantage of this!

Your cat's stress levels while waiting in the reception area of the clinic will be substantially less if they aren't sitting 1 or 2 metres away from a loudly barking German shepherd dog!

►  To look for a feline specific clinic in your area, search the American Association of Feline Practitioners website for all AAFP registered clinics in North America. (http://www.catvets.com/findadoctor/findadoctor.aspx)

►  Not all communities will have board-certified feline specialists either, but it's always worth looking because if there is an ABVP Diplomate (American Board of Veterinary Practitioners) in your area, it is another great resource for you and your kitty!

ABVP Feline Practice Diplomates are veterinarians who have completed the intensive ABVP species-specific (feline) clinical practice residency program (a minimum of two years), and who have successfully passed the ABVP Specialty Exam.

►  To search for a Feline Diplomate near you, visit the ABVP website and click on the "Find a Diplomate" button. (http://www.abvp.com/)

►  Cat carriers tend to be inexpensive, although there certainly are some pricey models available these days as well. It's well worth investing in at least a regular, mainstream carrier for your cat, since over the course of your cat's lifetime you will need to travel with them repeatedly.

► Some cat owners bring their cats to the clinic by placing them inside gym bags, suitcases, cardboard boxes, laundry baskets, and other such improvised versions of cat carriers. This is an unwise decision for multiple reasons.

Part of an improvised carrier needs to remain open so the cat inside can breathe which means that they can easily escape from it. Cats will often seize the opportunity to jump out while they are being carried through clinic parking lots, which are highly dangerous places since they can easily be hit by cars.
Gym bags, duffel bags, purses, and other such items have no firm structure to them since they aren'tt built to support animals, unlike soft sided cat carriers. Without sturdy bottoms in their carrying bags cats feel unsupported and insecure which greatly increases stress levels and may even cause them to panic.
Additionally, improvised bags don't have nice familiar odors inside so they don't impart any sense of comfort to cats since they are not items which kitties use regularly in the home.

►  Carrying cats from the car to the clinic in one's arms is even more dangerous than using improvised carriers since cats can escape even more easily in this kind of scenario.

Cats are already tense and a bit frightened after experiencing the car ride to the clinic, and are prone to bolting – many clinics are situated on busy roads, and I have seen more than one cat unexpectedly get away from owners that were intending carry them into the clinic!

Carrier should be large enough that cats can comfortably stand up and turn around … you might be surprised to know how frequently cats arrive in clinics squeezed inside kennels that they outgrew 10 years prior when they entered adulthood!

Carriers best suited for going to the vet are ones with snap tops that are easily removed.

These are extremely handy because cats can remain comfy and snug in the bottom half of the carrier through the majority of their exam, and can then be gently lifted out when better access is needed to complete the exam or perform procedures.
This method of extracting cats from their carriers is far less stressful than ‘dumping' them out of their carriers.

► Your cat's carrier should not be associated only with use for trips to the vet clinic and other stressful events such as air travel, otherwise your cat will associate the carrier with these negative experiences - upon seeing the carrier your cat's fear and anxiety levels will amplify instantaneously, irrespective of why you have brought it out of storage.

If the cat carrier only appears out of the front hall closet the day before a trip to the veterinarian's office, your cat will quickly learn that it's time to go into hiding until the carrier disappears from view once again! … Chasing your cat down and retrieve them from underneath the bed only results in heightened stress levels for both of you before you've even left the home, and can also result in missed veterinary appointments.
Place a comfortable pad or blanket in the bottom of the carrier.
Your cat should consider their carrier a safe haven, a place that they frequent for little cat naps - the carrier should be associated with a sense of security and their home environment so that when your kitty travels in their carrier they know that they are inside their safe haven.

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►  As mentioned above, the carrier should be a comfortable environment with a familiar cushion or blanket inside.

Many cats like to burrow themselves and hide under their blankets when they are stressed, so this not only provides them with familiar smells, but also allows them to retreat underneath when they are stressed.

►  Provide some treats and familiar toys in the carrier to create a positive association with being inside the carrier.

This should be done not only when traveling to the vet clinic, but also on a regular basis at home.

►  There is now a synthetic version of cats' 'happy pheromone.' Kitties naturally produce this happy pheromone within skin glands that are located by their cheeks.

When cats are happy and content they rub up against people and nearby objects, depositing their happy cat facial pheromones all around them.
The synthetic form of this molecule is called Feliway, and is fairly inexpensive.
Use of the synthetic version can greatly decrease cats' anxiety levels while traveling!

►   To use Feliway:

Spray the entire inner surface of the carrier as well as the blanket inside, with Feliway, starting 24 hours before the veterinary visit.
Repeat this at least four times during the 24 hour period prior to the visit in order to build up a good coating of Feliway in the carrier.
Don't spray the carrier and place your cat immediately within it – leave at least 15 minutes because alcohol is one of the carrier molecules in Feliway and should have time to evaporate since cats don't enjoy the scent of alcohol!

►  A significant stressor when bringing a cat to the vet is the transportation which leads to their arrival at the clinic … car rides often put cats into panic mode long before they even set paw inside the clinic itself!

Car rides are an infrequent experience for most cats. Cars are also noisy and mobile. Many cats don't cope well with new situations, let alone situations involving engine noises and fast, unpredictable movements.
Car travel is like an overwhelming sensory assault to cats; it creates simultaneous auditory, visual, olfactory, and tactile stimuli and there is no time during which cats can acclimate to the situation. This kind of travel experience creates negative associations in cats' minds, and they will not relish future repeats of the experience!

►  To help your cat deal more effectively with transportation the solution is helping your cat slowly adjust to the experience in small increments. Once your cat is accustomed to being in the car, take your cat for car rides that don't end up at the veterinary office so they don't automatically associate car trips with vet visits!

Ideally cat to are acclimatized to travel in kittenhood, but later in life is still better than never.
Place your cat in your car without starting the engine. Don't go anywhere, simply allow your cat to explore a bit and just sit in his or her carrier, becoming familiar with the car's appearance and smells. Provide lots of treats, praise, and positive attention.
Once your cat has been inside the car multiple times and seems fairly comfortable with it, then place your cat in the car and start the engine. Again, do not go anywhere, just allow your kitty to understand that the noise of the engine is not a threat, it is simply a background noise.
Once your cat is accustomed to the noise of the engine and the feel of its vibrations, go for your first short car ride. Keep your cat safely enclosed in their carrier, take turns slowly and gently, and do not open the windows or have music playing. Drive slowly around the block or just around the parking lot and that will be enough for your cat's first ride.
Next, take your kitty for a longer drive. Again, go slowly, keep the windows closed and the car radio off. The motion of the car ride alone, combined with the sight of other vehicles on the road and the traffic noise will be more than enough for your cat to contend with.
Again, reward your cat with lots of treats, praise, and stroking once the drive is over but you are still in the vehicle. When you return home, give your cat one of their favourite foods – tuna, liver bits, cooked turkey, or whatever they love most!

►  Once your cat knows how to cope with travel it won't be a major stressor when you need to transport them to the vet clinic – it will simply be one of many little rides they have experienced and they'll know that there will be a delicious meal awaiting them upon their return home!

►  When a cat is in a clinic they may behave in ways they have never behaved at home. They may growl, hiss, swat, be generally uncooperative, or even try to bite. These actions do NOT mean that they are "bad cats" – they are simply frightened and are reacting to what they perceive as a scary situation with natural defensive feline behaviour.

Some owners admonish their cats if they believe their cat is 'misbehaving' in a veterinary office. Some go so far as to yell aggressively, tap or smack their cat on the nose or head, or they even spank their cat's rear end. This should NEVER ever be done.
This form of ‘discipline' may be a reaction to owners' embarrassment about their cat's behaviour, but it's critical to know that these are normal cat behaviours and veterinarians understand this better than anyone! There is no need to apologize or feel embarassed about feisty cat behaviour because vets will not think these frisky cats are "bad cats" – veterinarians deal with fractious kitties on a daily basis and are trained to handle scared, aggressive cats in a safe and gentle manner.
Yelling at a cat, or worse, tapping or smacking them, only serves to heighten the their stress levels, and is always a BAD idea. Yelling at and smacking a cat makes the kitty even more frightened and reactive - not only are they now in a foreign environment but their one source of comfort and familarity, their owner, has become scary and foreign as well.
'Punishing' a cat makes the veterinarian's job of handling the frightened cat even harder. Additionally, it creates a negative memory of the clinic in the cat's mind which means that the next visit will be even more stressful than the last one, and the cat may behave even more defensively.

►  The best action to take if your cat is upset, is to pet and reassure them when your veterinarian requests that you help them by providing positive distractions during their physical exam. Otherwise, it's best not to interfere until your veterinarian is finished. Once the exam is over, lots of praise, treats, and positive attention are warranted.

►  An excellent way of teaching your cat that a visit to the clinic is not a scary event, is to bring your cat in for visits when he or she does not require an exam or procedure of any kind.

Call your veterinary clinic in advance to ensure that it is a good time to visit – you do not want to impede work happening at the clinic if they are extremely busy, and you also do not want the visit to be too overwhelming for your kitty if it is a bit chaotic at the time of your planned visit. For instance, mornings when surgical procedures are being done may be a convenient time – the clinic will not be busy in the waiting room and exam rooms, and your kitty may be allowed to spend lots of time exploring the reception area and elsewhere.
Bring some food along for your cat, and feed him or her in one of the exam rooms if possible. Play with some toys and some catnip, and see if one or two staff members of the clinic are available to play with your cat for a short period of time.

►  Train your cat to accept certain kinds of physical manipulation that are similar to routine procedures done at veterinary clinics. If your cat is used to these procedures at home, then veterinary exams will be less stressful and will be better tolerated by your cat.

Slowly teach your kitty to accept having their paws touched, nails unsheathed, being groomed, having their teeth brushed, ears cleaned, and having their belly's touched.
Start practicing with your cat as soon as you can - from kittenhood ideally, but training your cat in adulthood can work as well.

To read Dr. Ko's article at www.catdoctorko.com, please click here.

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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How to Minimize Stress When Taking Your Cat to the Vet

Understanding normal cat behavior is essential when establishing and cultivating a relationship with your feline that is mutually rewarding. Being in tune with the your cat's behaviors and how they communicate with you enables you in maintaining and continually improving your cat's quality of life.

Cats are very social creatures, BUT their social behaviors and communication methods differ greatly from dogs.

While it's true that cats are not ‘pack' animals like dogs, the domestic cat is not as solitary an animal as was once believed. Domestic cats frequently DO live in social groups. Group living may be by choice (e.g. feral cat colonies) or may be secondary to circumstances beyond their control (e.g. multi-cat households).

The number of cats within feline colonies varies significantly; cats may live in large colonies and develop unique relationships with various colony members, or they may live in small, modest colonies. Cat groups typically form hierarchies, and strange new cats are not always welcome to the group: in fact, unfamiliar cats are frequently chased away, and it can be a long, difficult road for a cat to achieve acceptance into a group.

Thus, while it is true that cats can, and do, live happy solitary lives, they are ALWAYS solitary creatures. Many kitties are content to live alone, but now we also know that cats DO form social living groups too. What is the moral of the story? Cats have very flexible social requirements; cats are not only physically flexible, but companionably as well!

, today's domestic cat (non-purebred cat) is not far removed from its original ancestors with respect to its physique and behavior, and this is part of the cat's charm and appeal. Until recently cats have been lucky enough to have escaped humankind's desire to create "breeds" through inbreeding and selection for genetic mutations. While there now do exist cats that are bred for deformities, specific types of coats (or lack thereof), certain behavioral traits, and so on, the majority of today's cat population is made up of healthy, normal, and beautiful cats.

Modern cats are thought to have descended from which are still found in deserts throughout Africa. Ancient Egyptians had significant influence on the domestication of the African Wild Cat because they revered felines and considered them to be sacred animals. In Europe, Christianity lowered cats' status but cats did succeed eventually in becoming popular domestic pets for the purpose of rodent control. Over time, the African Wild Cat hybridized with the jungle cat and European Wild Cat.

Cats are often considered to form stronger  than dogs, and to then form secondary  to the humans and animals within their environments (although many of us cat owners would beg to differ!). Many cats do not cope well with changes in their environments.

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Cats' ability to cope with new stimuli is strongly influenced by their genetic inheritance. There are t of cats with respect to  capability to face novel situations and animate beings, and  the tendency to respond to these stimuli with aggressive behavior versus acceptance.

have a significant tolerance for novel stimuli (both animate and inanimate) and  are those that do not. But, despite the fact that both aggression and tolerance for novel situations have a genetic basis, owners can help decrease their cats' genetic predispositions to neophobia and aggression by properly kittens by exposing them to new people, animals, and places during the appropriate developmental periods. Just like people, cats have particularly sensitive periods when social behaviors and skills are developed.

The most important time for cats to be . During this time frame, kittens are also learning how to play and interact with one another, and are developing important skills such as bite inhibition. Social play peaks at 3 months of age, and cats' personalities mature between 2 and 3 years of age. Cats' personality traits, like humans, are both genetic and a result of early social experiences and environmental factors. Cats that have not been regularly, and pleasantly, handled by humans before the age of 14 weeks, are more prone to being fearful, reserved, and even aggressive in human encounters, regardless of their genetic tendencies.

When a kitten is adopted, it is important to spend time gradually socializing them to men, women, children (under supervision and with gentle handling), other kittens and cats, and new inanimate objects. However, always be sure to provide escapes, or ‘outs,' for the kitten, such as perches, cat beds, and secluded areas so that they may retreat to if feeling uncomfortable. This way the kitten does not feel trapped in the encounter, and will be far more relaxed and receptive to all interactions and to simply observing the situations. Provide treats, toys, and other forms of stimulation to make the experiences positive and fun.

►   Physical pain and illness are most commonly recognized by owners as behavioral changes. If you recognize a sudden, or a slowly developing, behavioral change in your cat, it is best that you make an appointment with your veterinarian.

►    Never physically or verbally punish a cat for performing unwanted behaviors. Ignoring undesirable behavior is the most effective means of stopping it.

►   Scratching is a natural cat behavior that involves grooming claws, stretching muscles, and leaving territorial marking pheromones behind. Simply direct this normal cat behavior to surfaces of your choosing so that your home does not incur damage from your cat's scratching habits.

►   Petting aggression is normal in many adult cats, and avoiding injury or unpleasant interactions with a petting-aggressive cat is as simple as shortening interaction lengths, and learning to recognize the early warning signs of aggression onset.

►   Predatory behavior in cats is normal, even when cats are not hungry. To prevent your cat from hunting birds and animals, an outdoor enclosure, or leash-walking should be used.

►   Introductions to new cats need to happen very gradually and with proper guidance. Seek the advice of your veterinarian if you plan to introduce a new cat to your household, and review this article on introducing a new feline into your home.

►   Contrary to popular belief, cats that urinate and/or defecate outside of the litter box do not do this to "get back at" their owners. There is commonly an underlying medical issue causing discomfort upon elimination, or, there may be an easy solution that involves ameliorating the litter box situation at home, and it was simply that the original situation was suboptimal.

►   Cats are trainable with positive reinforcement and methods such as clicker training. Starting at a young age can help accelerate willingness to learn, and can be used to encourage helpful behaviors such as tolerating certain types of handling such as checking ears and teeth.

►   Cats can become easily fixated on one type of food, and this may become problematic if dietary changes are required for health reasons later in life. It is important to introduce cats to a variety of shapes, sizes, tastes, and textures of food so that they do not become resistant to changes if they are needed later in life.

►   Cats express stress with hiding, withdrawal, dilated pupils, increased respiratory rates, flattened ears, crouched postures, and hissing and growling. However, long term stress may be expressed by more subtle changes such as decreased grooming behavior, less playing, decreased social interaction, and poor appetite.

For more detailed information regarding particular behavioral issues and questions, please refer to our library of specific behavior topics, or call your veterinarian if you are concerned about a sudden serious behavioral change in your cat.

To read Dr. Ko's article at www.catdoctorko.com, please click here.

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian. © 2011 K & J Ventures Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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A Brief History of the Domestic Cat & Understanding Your Cat’s Behavior

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While dry food does leave less residue on cats' teeth, thus creating less plaque buildup and tartar formation, dry food is for your cat than wet food, and ... there is no contest!

Feral cats hunt mice, birds, and other small prey animals because they are. When comparing water content, protein, fat, and other elements within thenutritional composition profiles of feline prey species to both dry and wet cat foods, !

content which is similar to the

Cats who consume over the course of the day relative to cats who eat dry food.

Cats were originallyand inhabited areas where water was not freely available for consumption. This means two things: cats are  and  their to conserve their body water in times when prey was scarce and water was unavailable. So when cats through their because their diet is composed mainly of dry food, their by producing the they are capable of making. Their kidneys spend a lifetime working very hard in order to compensate for their decreased water intake when their diets are composed of dry matter; this was only meant to be used in - not as a long-term solution to be used for decades!

Why is water intake so important for cats?Because

Additionally, often contains (corn, wheat, potato, rice, soy, etc.) that are Evolutionarily cats were . And although there are now a few 'high quality' dry foods on the market that are not made with grains, the fact remains that dry food is still dense (97% dry matter), is hard on cats' GI tracts and still results in decreased water intake.

While most humans don't want animal by-products on their plates (by-products can include bone, skin, eyes, intestines, chicken feet, undeveloped eggs, etc.), they are still body parts and in some cultures many by-products are even considered to be delicacies! 

When cats hunt and eat their prey (eg. mice), they don't skin them, remove the muscle from the bones, and toss aside the viscera: , rarely leaving any ‘by-products' behind!

​That said, kitties still along with the other bits and pieces that may be included in their suppers in order to get enough protein in their food, so a good quality cat diet should contain a significant amount of 'real meat' as well!

Many just like dogs and humans do. In fact, is becoming an increasingly prevalent problem among North American cats, particularly for . Many cat owners allow their kitties to free feed on dry food, and the food bowls are just topped up with kibble every several days when they're looking a bit low.

in comparison with wet food or a natural feline diet consisting of prey species, so the that is equal to an average cat's is relatively . 
This means that many cats that is equal to their daily caloric needs, and therefore they unwittingly consume since they continue to eat more dry food in order to feel full.
Just a few of the reasons that to cats include the following: obesity leads to (a disease that is now rampant in our domestic cat population), early onset of , increased risk of , increased risk of when obese cats become ill and stop eating, due to lethargy and low energy levels, and decreased capacity to have performed.
Additionally, unless the , it is very difficult to recognize when a cat stops eating if they are fed dry food. If the food dish is just topped up periodically, it , at which point illness may have progressed significantly.
Cats naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals (of wet food!) as possible.

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Cats will naturally eat t, so it is best to feed them as many small meals as possible.

Logistically it can be somewhat difficult for working owners to provide this ideal number of feedings, but when possible, feedings should be done upon waking up, again in the morning before leaving for work, immediately upon returning home from work, and then once or twice more before going to bed. 
Leaving a very very small amount of dry food or better yet, , available in while away from home during the day, and when in bed during the night, allows cats to enjoy small feedings at their leisure and will encourage natural foraging/hunting behaviors (and may help prevent your kitty from waking you up at 5 AM for their breakfast feeding!). 
For practical reasons, wet food needs to be fed in because most cats won't eat wet food that has been out for longer than 30 minutes. 
Once wet food has dried up from exposure at room temperature it loses its appeal to cats, and additionally, will grow bacteria, which means it won't be safe for cats to consume.
Wet food should not be left out for more than 15 to 30 minutes and if not immediately placed refrigerated once meal time is finished it should be thrown away . 

While many people make the assumption that wet cat food is fattening, this is a . 

Intuitively it seems to make sense: wet food smells rich and enticing, many cats gobble their wet food with an enthusiasm they rarely display when presented dry food, and even the moistness of the wet food looks fattening! However,
Canned food is approximately , so while it may seem rich and delectable, it is actually very (literally!) in comparison to dry food.
(kibble) is approximately , and it is extremely . 
it's a compact little item that contains all of the nutrients and calories that are required … but, who feels full after one little bar?! It would take four or five meal bars to actually feel physically full as though one had eaten an entire meal, and the very same problem exists with dry cat food. 
Only a small volume of dry food provides the calories necessary to meet cats' daily caloric needs, but since most by the tiny volume that equals their daily caloric needs, they … in time, this leads to obesity which frequently results in diabetes over time.

Kittens, adults, and geriatric cats all have slightly different nutritional requirements, and it is important that they be fed appropriate diets for their stage of life. Additionally, some cats may have particular diseases that may require specific diets to aid with their disease management.

While cats who eat dry food may to be ingesting more water (and they certainly do spend more time visibly drinking from their water dishes), in they

The reason that cats who eat canned food ingest so much more water than those eating dry food, is because canned food is anywhere from 70% to 80% water content (in comparison to ).
Despite the fact that cats on dry diets appear to drink large quantities of water from their water bowls, they actually do not compensate nearly to the point of actually equaling the amount of water that cats who eat wet food consume on a daily basis.
Cats were originally desert creatures and they evolved to have the capacity to concentrate their urine very highly.
Thus, cats who eat dry food only take in enough water to remain adequately hydrated while their kidneys work in overdrive day in and day out,  to bridge the gap for them. In turn this causes , and many more

Depending on the type of cat treats that are being fed, they can be a dangerously high source of calories!

Over-treating your cat can be a contributing so it's a good idea to know the caloric content of the treats you feed your cat. 
For example, Pounce treats are ; Temptations are ; and MediCal treats are . 
So if you give your cat 5 Pounce treats in one day, this is equal to 50 kcal. 
Since the average adult cat needs approximately , Which means that their meal portions for that day would need to be significantly reduced. 
5 Temptations treats, on the other hand, are only equal to 10 kcal, and so are a relatively low calorie choice.
​The bottom line is that but you need to  
​Also, keep in mind that in that they can include many for our little carnivores, including food coloring. For this reason, I tend to stick to - they are much healthier and contain no added ingredients!

It is true that many organic and holistic cat foods contain veggies and fruits in their ingredient lists. But while the concept of organic cat food is a good one, the that are frequently included in these diets tend to

Organic food is an important part of healthy living, but unfortunately many organic cat foods that are commercially available today include inappropriate ingredients in their make-up. are included in cat diets purely for . This tactic is very effective because we - the - have the : which they are, but that's because we are
which means that their and are If cats were pushing their own shopping carts through pet store aisles, the food companies would not be marketing their feline diets with veggie and fruit ingredients, and nor would they be enhancing their diets' appearance with artificial food coloring!
Cats are , and that would normally be ingested by cats would be the very minute amount present in the . 

Cats have , including that absolutely .  

can develop as a result of , and it is imperative that before switching your cat to a home-cooked diet or a raw diet that you and obtain a and all of the that must be included.

www.catdoctorko.com



The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

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