Here is some of the information I uncovered doing my research before we brought our new cat, Tommy, into our home.

Cats need a specific diet. Not all cat foods are good at meeting the natural dietary needs of cats. You would think that if a manufacturer says a food is good for cats, it has to be good for cats. But determining whether or not a food fits the dietary needs of your cat is up to you. The manufacturer is trying to sell his product, so do your homework.

Dry foods have different health benefits and drawbacks than canned foods. I didn't know that! Cats don't need a lot of vegetable fillers in their diet. I didn't know that either! Cats need a high-protein, high-animal fat diet. That sounded a bit off until I thought about it. Cats are carnivores in the truest sense of the word. They eat only other animals when they are in their natural habitat. Now I understand why I need to read labels and choose the diet that is best suited to Tommy's natural needs.

Another area I looked into was what toys are best for a cat. I saw a lot of really cool, colorful, texture-rich toys in the pet store. They would be great! Any cat would have so much fun with such a toy. Not so. Cats are not completely color blind, but they do not make much distinction in colors. A colorful toy has little influence on its attractiveness to a cat.

I also thought a big ball of yarn would be fun until I found out that cats can ingest yarn and it embeds in the lining of their stomachs. That is not a scenario I wanted to know about personally! The cool crinkly toys I saw have had problems with the crinkly part coming out when the cat plays with it. Again, ingestion of the material can cause serious health risks. I had a lot of things to consider if I was going to have a cat and provide safe, fun toys for him to play with.

Do you know how many kinds of cat litter are on the market? Did you know some cats won't use certain types of litter? Some of them are very expensive, and others have a more reasonable price tag, but while some cats enjoy the more expensive, others will only use the cheapest kind of litter. I was getting quite tired just thinking about how many experiments we might have to do if we brought a cat home. How much clean up was I willing to do if the cat didn't like the litter I bought?

Cat furniture is another issue I researched. I know cats scratch, and I had heard that declawing is an unpleasant and unnecessary procedure. I wanted to know what my options were and how effective I could be in preserving my furniture and carpets. There is a large variety of options for furniture. There are textures cats prefer, along with structures that they enjoy. I learned that most important was to provide variety in any furniture I chose. I also learned that it is significantly cheaper (though requires an investment of time) to build my own.

Finally, I turned my thoughts to the physical health of a cat. I know worms can be a problem for a lot of cats. What I didn't know was how easy they are to treat if you are diligent about keeping up with the general health of the cat. I also learned that there are things you can do to make your cat's habitat less conducive to picking up worms. Cleanliness is important in the house as well as the yard!

And what about fleas? While fleas can be a problem, and they can cause some other health issues if they get out of control in a cat, they are also a minor problem if you are taking charge of your cat's overall health. There are many monthly-use products that keep fleas at bay just by being faithful to giving them to your cat.

Ultimately, I learned a lot about taking care of a cat. My kids were asking me almost daily until I gave in and we brought Tommy home. I have been diligent about providing for his needs. He sees the vet on schedule. He has a healthy, protein-rich diet, he has toys that cannot hurt him, and we did finally find a litter he will use! He has quit scratching the furniture, and we are all enjoying having him in our home.

Be diligent in your research about cat care basics. If you will pay attention to your cat's needs, you will be able to avoid illness, injury, and outrageous vet bills!

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Cat Care Basics

The shelf price of this new variety of cat litter is twice that of traditional varieties of cat litter. But the new product proves to be cost effective since it absorbs twice the amount of moisture compared to the ordinary variety. So there is really no increase in your monthly expenditure on this account.

The acceptance of pine cat litter is still an issue, not by the owners but by the cat itself. Cats are reluctant to use the pine cat litter because the 'feel' is unnatural. The pellets tend to be a little rough on the cat's paws. The cat's acceptance or rejection of pine cat litter will be the sole deciding factor in the success of pine cat litter in the market.

My suggestion is to introduce the pine cat litter in a gradual fashion. Mix a little pine cat litter with the normal stuff. Let the cat use it and get used to the mix. It may take a day or two for the cat to get comfortable with the mix. Then increase the dose of pine litter and reduce the amount of the ordinary litter. Let the cat get used to the increasing amounts of pine cat litter gradually. Finally, you will have a 100% pine cat litter in the litter box, and 100% freedom from that very strong odor! That is if your cat decides to play ball and adjust to pine litter. If your cat resists, and even refuses to visit the litter box, then it's back to the good old clumping and the bad old smell!

If the odor from the cat's litter is driving you round the bend, and you've made up your mind to use pine cat litter, then do what many other owners are doing. Fill the litter box with pine cat litter, and then put down a surface layer of your cat's favorite litter. This way, your cat is satisfied and so are you!

Hardly have we worked our way around problem #1, than problem #2 crops up. It appears that pine fragrance is not very popular with cats. Now that's something that we can't do anything about. After all you're using pine cat litter solely for its fragrance, and there's your cat wrinkling up its nose at the very idea! That apart, pine cat litter is completely safe for your cat. All toxic substances have been removed from the cat litter.

Pine cat litter can be composted and used as garden manure. The solid waste must be removed before composting the litter. So pine cat litter can claim to be environment-aware and environment-friendly.

Whether pine cat litter makes its way into your house on a permanent basis depends entirely on your cat! If your cat converts to pine then you're home free, to a home free from that awful stench! On the other hand, if your cat gives pine cat litter a paws down, then you'll just have to grin and bear it!

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Scat Cat Litter Odor With Feline Pine Cat Litter

When your cat crawls into the cosy nook that a cat igloo is, their body heat is trapped and it keeps your kitty as comfortable and toasty warm as can be. And, of course there is nothing more adorable than a sleepy kitty peeking out of his or her cat igloo.

The following are some fantastic cat igloos you’ll want to get your hands on as temperatures begin to drop!

Cat Den Sheila
The Cat Den Sheila features a black paw print pattern on a beige background and a triangle shaped opening through which your cat can come and go. This cat igloo is made of a soft material and comes with a pillow for your cat’s comfort and is one of the best cat supplies available. This cat bed is also washable and foldable for your convenience.

Ancol Timberwolf Extreme Pyramid Cat Bed
The Ancol Timberwolf Extreme Pyramid cat bed is made of brown and green mock suede that your cat will love to rub up against. You’ll be lucky if your cat ever wants to come out of this cat igloo!

Cushy Cave Minou Cat Bed
This cat igloo is sure to attract your cat’s attention. The fur-lined rim sets this cat bed apart from the rest, and all of the fabric used is extra soft. This cat bed comes in a two-tone colour pattern of either beige and brown or rose and gray, and features a cute paw print on both sides of the bed. Since this cat bed comes in two different sizes, you can provide your cat its own cosy cat bed or a place for him or her to snuggle up with a friend. I have 2 very happy cats that would gladly testify to the cosiness of this cat igloo!

Safari Igloo Cat Bed
If your cat is serious about comfort, style, and adventure, this is the cat igloo he or she needs. A leopard print cushion gives this cat bed a safari feel and is designed with a memory frame to maintain the shape your cat will love. The outer brown fabric is soft and will easily mix with the decor of most rooms, so your cat can be in the middle of all of the action without feeling overwhelmed.

Danish Design Morocco Cat Bed
This cat bed is perfect for older and larger cats as it features a wide round entrance. The thick cushion in this cat igloo provides your cat all of the comfort they could ask for. The interior fabric has stripes in classic Moroccan colours that are complemented by an outer, sand-coloured fabric.

Your cat will appreciate any of the cat igloos suggested, and with all of the varieties of shapes and sizes, you’re sure to find a cat bed that’s perfect for any room. You can get a lot of info on pet supplies from us.

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Cat Igloos Make Great Cat Beds

The owners of cats who take their food seriously will opt for a more natural cat food versus the mass produced type. Since cats are hunters, they are accustomed to eating meat. The meat-by products that are in canned food do not contain the high amount of animal protein that is required by cats.

Amino acids, which are an ingredient in animal protein, are used by cats to grow up healthy and continue to be healthy. One such ingredient is taurine. If a cat’s diet lacks this particular nutrient, they can become blind.

The diet required by cats is not covered in canned and dry cat foods. You may not even realize that the food you are feeding your cat is harming him. Just as you do not realize that some of the products used in cat food are items that cannot be used in human food. Unintentionally our cats are being starved of the foods that they need to be healthy and survive.

By giving your cat the most natural cat food that is available, you may be prolonging his life and the quality of it. Some of the best foods for cats are lean ground meat such as beef. You can mix the beef with a vegetable and brown rice. Whole grains are also good for cats. The home made food can be cooked or it can be served raw. It really depends on your cat’s preferences.

Experts lean towards a raw diet because it is more like the one they would be eating if they were still in the wild. While many people oppose this because they are concerned with the pet getting food poisoning from the raw meat, there has been no instance of this happening. As long as the food is fresh, there should be no worries on this point.

Just feeding your cat vegetables is not a good idea. The cat’s diet has to be as close to the one he would eat in the wild as possible. Protein, which is one of the most important parts of a diet are only found in meats and some vegetables.

Organic cat food should not be confused with natural cat food. The organic is grown using no pesticides. Although now we are learning that farmers are allowed by the FDA to use a limited amounts of pesticides and still call their food 'organic'.

Natural means the food has the vitamins and minerals still intact that your cat will need to develop and remain healthy. Natural cat food is being used by more and more cat lovers daily. The only problem with natural cat foods is the over-processing that it must undergo. And after so much cooking and boiling, most of the nutrients that are reinserted in the food are of an artificial nature. The next step in this unhealthy cycle is of course to then introduce perservatives to maintain color, taste and balance. It is a vicious cycle indeed and our cats are suffering for it. No responsible cat owner would ever settle for feeding his or her cat dangerous crap for the sake of convenience.

Save your cat's life!

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The One Simple Step To Saving Your Cat’S Life

What sort of worms affect cats?

There are two important types of parasitic worms in cats - roundworms and tapeworms.

Roundworms can grow up to 15 cm long and are white in colour. As their name suggests they're round, whereas tapeworms are flat. Tapeworms can grow up to 60 cm long. Both roundworms and tapeworms live in the cat’s intestines (along with two other types of smaller worm called whip worms and hookworms). These are parasitic worms that can live in the cat’s lungs, heart, stomach or bladder.

How are  worms treated?

There are some highly effective treatments that will kill worms. Although not all the products are the same, some work against certain types of worms and others don’t. Your vet will be able to suggest to you which product is best for your cat. Worms are so common that it's safe to assume that all kittens, cats with fleas, and animals which on a regular basis catch wildlife will be infected. Kittens should be treated with wormers every 2 weeks, from the age of 6to 16 weeks, and older cats should be treated about every 3 months. You should discuss with your vet the most appropriate treatment schedule for your pet.

How can I treat roundworms in my cat?

Immature worms can be passed from a mother to her kittens, whilst they're still in the womb or via the milk. Roundworms grow in the intestine of young cats, laying thousands of eggs which pass out in the faeces . Most adult cats develop a level of immunity and don’t pass on the eggs but some continue to do so throughout their life. The eggs can survive for months or even years in the soil before infecting another animal. They find their way into a new host either directly, (when eaten by a cat) or indirectly, (after being swallowed by a rodent which is then eaten by the cat). Immature worms also survive in the tissues of an infected cat and can develop again if a female cat becomes pregnant.

Treatments for roundworms usually kill all adult worms in the intestine but don't have any lasting effect. This means that cats can easily be re-infected. It is not easy to tell if an animal has been re-infected, so treatment should be given on a regular basis to remove any worms present. It is likely that young cats will have roundworms and so treatment should be started at 6 weeks of age and continued at the recommended interval for the product used until adulthood.

How can I treat tapeworms in my cat?

Tapeworms anchor themselves by their head to the intestine wall and grow a continuous ribbon of segments, each packed with eggs. The segments gradually break off and are passed out in the faeces. These segments look like grains of rice and may wriggle like a maggot for a short time before they dry up. The most common type of tapeworm moves on to a new cat by way of fleas. Immature fleas pick up infection from cat faeces and cats are then infected if they accidentally swallow an adult flea while  grooming themselves. There is also a rarer type of tapeworm which uses mice, other rodents and rabbits to complete its life-cycle. This parasite lies inactive in the muscle or other organs of a small rodent or rabbit and cats are infected if they eat these animals.

How often should I treat my cat?

This depends on each cats individual circumstances. Some cats, ie indoor cats, may never be exposed to worms and so don’t need repeated treatments once worms have been eliminated as a kitten. The products usually used to treat worms do not have any persistent action so pets may become re-infected immediately after treatment. Most vets recommend treating pets every 3-6 months but cats that do a lot of hunting may need to be treated more frequently. You should ask your own vet for advice on the best way to control infection in your pet.

Are any other worms a problem?

There is a kind of roundworm (Angiostrongylus) that can live in the blood vessels of affected cats. Severe infection with this worm can cause lung disease and heart failure but also can result in problems with blood clotting. Some other worms that reside in the lungs or respiratory system can also cause coughing. Special tests are needed to identify infection with these parasites but they can be treated.
Hookworms and whip worms are rarely seen in pet cats in modern countries but may occasionally be seen where large numbers of cats are kept  together. Infections with large numbers of worms may result in diarrhea and weight loss. Many of the routine drugs used for removing other worms are also effective against these.

How else can I prevent worms?

Apart from regularly worming your pets, there are a number of other measures which can stop worms being passed on from cat to cat, or from cat to people.
• If your cat uses the garden as a toilet, clean up the faeces and bury them or put them inside a sealed bag in the garbage.
• Check your cat for signs of fleas and treat them regularly using a product recommended by your vet. Fleas are more numerous during summer and autumn, although will survive all year round in the right conditions.
• Children will put their fingers and other objects into their mouths and this may bring them into contact with worm eggs. Make sure that they wash their hands after playing in any open areas which may have been used as a toilet by cats. Remember the greatest risk of children being infected with worms is from other children, not your cat.

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Cats Ringworm & Tapeworm

What is IIM's CAT (Common Admission Test) all about?

CAT - The Common Admission Test to the six IIMs is also the entrance test for few other top B-Schools such as SP Jain, MICA, and T A Pai. CAT tests your skills in five broad areas viz.  

Verbal ability and reasoning Reading Comprehension Quantitative skills Data Interpretation Analytical and Logical reasoning.

So Guyz, I am trying to let you Bell The CAT ;)

Let's Start....!

One for thing Guyz, do you have good material to share ? Would you like to share it with others through this site ? If yes, then please Mail Me.

Bell The CAT 2010
Bell The CAT
Books for CAT Preparation
CAT Preparation
CAT Material

The test comprised 90 questions divided into 3 sections in the year 2005. Typically this test can be expected to comprise between 75 to 150 objective type questions and is usually divided into three to four sections. Each question has a question statement followed by four alternate answer choices and the candidate has to choose the best answer for each of the questions and mark it on a special Optical Reader answer sheet.

Over the years, the number of questions being asked in CAT has been decreasing steadily. While the early 90s witnessed 180 to 200 questions, the late 90s, specifically CAT 1999 and CAT 2000 had 165 questions each. CAT 2001, CAT 2002 and CAT 2003 had only 150 questions each and these 150 questions were divided into three sections of 50 questions each. There were 123 questions in CAT 2004 and only 90 in CAT 2005. CAT 2004 and CAT 2005 both had differential marks to questions. There were 0.5 marks, 1 mark and 2 marks questions.

The duration of the test is of 120 minutes. This literally translates to answering a CAT question in 48 seconds. Most successful aspirants do not attempt anything more than 120 plus questions. And quite a lot of them attempt between 70 and 90 marks worth of questions. The key to success, therefore, lies in two important parameters

1. The accuracy or strike rate

While each correct answer carries 0.5 or 1 or 2 positive mark, each incorrect question carries 1/3rd of the marks allocated to it as negative marks. Hence, it is important to get a strike rate of over 85% - that is reduce the number of negatives.

2. Smart Selection

As it is clear that you will not be generally able to attempt all 150 marks question, and you skip between 60 to 80 questions, key to success lies in selecting questions properly. Hence, there are no kudos, nobel prizes or awards waiting for attempting the tough questions. Be smart to choose, the easiest of the questions and the ones that you have practised a lot and smash them. Do not venture into unsafe territories or to questions which you only have a vague idea.

CAT and entrance tests of other top B Schools are a unique breed of entrance exams. They focus on testing some of the basic qualities essential for managers - the grit to work hard, smartness to choose the best alternative, quick thinking and above all perseverance.

Exams like IIT JEE test the depth of your knowledge, while the Civil Services exams test your width of knowledge. CAT evaluates your presence of mind and the ability to perform under pressure. You cannot prepare for CAT during the last 10 days, as one generally does for semester exams. A minimum of 3 to 9 months of regular preparation is essential. 

The test comprised 90 questions divided into 3 sections in the year 2005. Typically this test can be expected to comprise between 75 to 150 objective type questions and is usually divided into three to four sections. Each question has a question statement followed by four alternate answer choices and the candidate has to choose the best answer for each of the questions and mark it on a special Optical Reader answer sheet.

Over the years, the number of questions being asked in CAT has been decreasing steadily. While the early 90s witnessed 180 to 200 questions, the late 90s, specifically CAT 1999 and CAT 2000 had 165 questions each. CAT 2001, CAT 2002 and CAT 2003 had only 150 questions each and these 150 questions were divided into three sections of 50 questions each. There were 123 questions in CAT 2004 and only 90 in CAT 2005. CAT 2004 and CAT 2005 both had differential marks to questions. There were 0.5 marks, 1 mark and 2 marks questions.

The duration of the test is of 120 minutes. This literally translates to answering a CAT question in 48 seconds. Most successful aspirants do not attempt anything more than 120 plus questions. And quite a lot of them attempt between 70 and 90 marks worth of questions. The key to success, therefore, lies in two important parameters

1. The accuracy or strike rate

While each correct answer carries 0.5 or 1 or 2 positive mark, each incorrect question carries 1/3rd of the marks allocated to it as negative marks. Hence, it is important to get a strike rate of over 85% - that is reduce the number of negatives.

2. Smart Selection

As it is clear that you will not be generally able to attempt all 150 marks question, and you skip between 60 to 80 questions, key to success lies in selecting questions properly. Hence, there are no kudos, nobel prizes or awards waiting for attempting the tough questions. Be smart to choose, the easiest of the questions and the ones that you have practised a lot and smash them. Do not venture into unsafe territories or to questions which you only have a vague idea.

CAT and entrance tests of other top B Schools are a unique breed of entrance exams. They focus on testing some of the basic qualities essential for managers - the grit to work hard, smartness to choose the best alternative, quick thinking and above all perseverance.

Exams like IIT JEE test the depth of your knowledge, while the Civil Services exams test your width of knowledge. CAT evaluates your presence of mind and the ability to perform under pressure. You cannot prepare for CAT during the last 10 days, as one generally does for semester exams. A minimum of 3 to 9 months of regular preparation is essential.

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Bell The CAT – Let’s Crack The CAT of IIM Institutes in India

Home Is Where the Catnip Is: Cats are, by nature, highly territorial, which means that having a place to call their own is extremely important to their emotional well-being. Your new cat is already in a state of stress from having been in a shelter or being given up for adoption, and being brought to a strange new home only increases that stress. Your goal is to help make your new cat feel comfortable as quickly as possible. When you bring your new cat home, confine it to a single room for at least the first few days (with food and litter, of course!). Although this may seem cruel by human standards, it is actually a great kindness to allow your cat to claim ownership of a small new territory at its own pace and without competition.

Some shy cats may hide under the bed for as long as a week; others will be ready to come out into the house and go exploring after just a day. The important thing is to let the cat emerge whenever it feels ready. You should spend as much time as possible in the room with the cat, but you should never try to force it out of hiding. The cat will let you know when its ready to begin exploring more of the house. Be sure to leave fresh food and water out at all times, and check that it is being consumed. Even stressed cats like to eat, so no food for 24 hours or more is possibly a sign of illness and warrants a trip to the vet.

Meeting the Family: Naturally, everyone in the family, especially the kids, will be excited about the new arrival. Children should be invited to visit the new kitty in her room, one at a time. Try to keep your children quiet and seated on these visits, so they do not frighten the cat if he's not used to kids. If the cat is friendly and approaches, have them offer an outstretched hand to sniff.

If the cat accepts this, they can gently pet the cat. As the cat becomes familiar with the child, they may play with a cat toy on a string or stick. NEVER let your children encourage a kitten to pounce on their fingers (or yours, for that matter). It may seem cute at first, but a full grown cat jumping on and biting a hand in play can be very painful or cause bleeding. Teach your children how to properly hold a cat: with one hand under the rump and one hand on the back, held up against their bodies. And don't leave small children unsupervised with your cat.

Reassuring Jealous Cats: Cats are like children in many ways, so its not surprising that your older pet may be jealous of a new arrival. He may be fearful of losing territory or worried that he is about to be replaced. Extra love, attention and patience during this transition will help to reassure your pet that it is still the center of your universe! Be prepared for it to take from a week to a month before the new cat is accepted by the resident cat. Before bringing home your new cat, make sure that both old and new cats are healthy and current on their vaccinations, including Feline Leukemia. Let your cat continue to have run of the house while the new cat is confined, so that he understands he is not being pushed out of his territory. Allow him to sniff or paw under the door with your new cat, and exchange items to familiarize each animal with the others smell.

When the time comes for the two cats to meet face to face, try to give them short periods of contact, slowly increasing the time as they adapt to one another. Be sure to supervise their visits until you're sure they are okay alone, and be prepared for some hissing and growling, which is quite normal for cats that are getting to know one another. Do not yell at or discipline either cat for hissing or growling, and in the unlikely event of a fight breaking out, break it up with a spray from a water bottle or a thrown towel, not your hands. Prevent the new cat from sleeping in any of your old cats favorite places (for example your bed) and provide each with separate food and water bowls and litter pans. They'll probably use each others, but will appreciate having their own. Try to keep your older cats routine intact, and take every opportunity you can to pet and praise your older cat. Above all, be patient, and one day you will find your new cats grooming each other when they think you're not looking!

Friendly Like Cats and Dogs: Most of the same advice applies to introducing cats and dogs. Again, let the dog have run of the house, and sniff at the cat under the door and exchange scented items during the first few days. You may wish to put up a baby gate in the doorway of the cats room or bring the cat into the house in a carrier so the animals can see each other before they actually meet.

Make sure the first visits in the house are supervised, with the dog on a leash if you are unsure about how friendly he will be. Encourage you dog with gentle praise if he is friendly. If the cat runs from your dog, do not allow the dog to chase it, and don't force a cat that seems uncomfortable to be in the same room with the dog. Keep the first visits brief, then extend them as the animals become familiar with each other. Be patient, give them time, and they'll soon learn to get along.

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Making Your New Cat Feel At Home

Cats do so much to enhance our lives; it is good to know that we can make their lives more comfortable. Cat furniture was designed for the sole comfort of our beloved pets. Cats come in many shapes and sizes and there are many different styles of cat furniture to accommodate them.

The cat litter box is on of the most important items you can get for your cat. Cat boxes are made in several varieties of shapes and have many colors. Because of the private nature of you cat, cat boxes often have a lid and a door to go in and out of. The best litter box you can get your kitty is a cat litter cabinet. This cat litter furniture is a cat box hidden in a cabinet. It looks just like an end table so no one knows it realy for your cat!

Beside the litter box the first piece of furniture you should think of is a scratching post or cat tree. This allows your cat to sharpen their claws without tearing your furniture apart. If you cat is de-clawed, you will find that your cat will use it out of instinct.

These types of cat furniture are usually constructed out of wood that is covered with carpet and cats of all shapes and sizes go wild playing on them. A scratching post can be horizontal or vertical and if you are really creative, you can design one for yourself.

Another function of a cat tree is to provide a cat or kitten with a place to play. This is great for people who go to work everyday and leave their cat home alone. A cat gym is a piece of cat furniture that is similar to a cat tree, only is has more for a cat to play with. It has multiple tiers for your cat to frolicking on and often has toys or feathers to play with.

You might also be interested in a cat house. This type of cat furniture can come in many different configurations as well. Some cat trees have a house at the bottom or at the tip top. Others have a cat litter box concealed at the bottom with the cat house up on top. Some take the shape of a round cat condo. The main reason for the cat house is to give your kitty a suite, private place to rest and relax.

If you have a cat up in years cat furniture can be a big help to him. While some may have special needs or are handicapped cat furniture can assist them in different ways. An older cat can benefit from Pet steps or a quiet cat house to rest up in. A small cat tree or scratching post can give needed exercise to a kitty that does not get out much.

So remember every kitty is special and needs a castle to call home. With all the choices out there, you can find that special

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Cat Furniture – Your Royal Kitty Needs A Castle

One of the worse offenses that a cat can commit at home is to urinate outside of the litter box. Nobody will be happy with this kind of behavior especially if the culprit chose to pee on the carpet or bed, much worst on top of your kitchen dishes.

How to prevent your cat from urinating in other places of the house is one of the commonly shared concerns of cat owners.

Before you get mad, read these non-fatal and non guilt-inducing tips to stop your cat peeing anywhere in the house.

Why does your cat do not use the litter box?

First the cat will not pee outside the litter box without any reason.

Noise, light and vibrations can be disturbing and may scare your cats from going to their litter boxes, subsequently leading to eliminating in other inappropriate locations.

Check the location of the litter box; your cat needs easily accessible private place (don’t you?).

Don’t locate the box in a high traffic area or your cat may feel vulnerable and be disturbed by the lack of privacy.

Cats don't want to sleep or eat near where they go to the bathroom, so locate the litter box in a reasonable place away from water and food.

Using a confined space like the closet or basement and leaving the door open is a good idea. But if you do this be sure to keep the box clean to reduce odors.

One possible location for the litter box is under a table. This is recommended if your home is not carpeted rather it is tiled or cemented and it’s a lot easier to clean.

Some other things to consider when locating a litter box:

•Avoid putting the litter box on carpet. The feel of the carpet is more attractive to your cats than litter box and may promote eliminating on carpets.

•Put the litter box in an area that is convenient for you to check on and keep clean.

•If there are dogs in the home, locate the litter box where the cat can eliminate without being bothered by them.

Keep Litter Boxes Clean

A dirty litter box is the number one reason a cat will stop using it and will look for other places to eliminate.

Clean all traces of pee and feces. Thoroughly refresh and wash out litter boxes with warm, soapy water or a mild commercial cleaner once a month. Use your regular cleaners, which may have ammonia. It attracts cats to pee.

If you have money to pay for self-cleaning litter boxes, purchase one for your pet to avoid being bothered when you are away or out of the house. These are fully automated to rake away waste and lock in odor by depositing the waste into disposable containers.

Other reasons why your cat do not use its litter box

Keep trying to figure out all the possible reasons why your cat is doing this obnoxious thing. Sometimes,

•Cats don't like the smell imbedded in the scratched plastic of old litter boxes.

•You put foil down where your cat is going. They don't like it.

•Your cat may be ill. Go to your vet for more help.

Its time to change the litter box if:

•A new litter being used has too heavy a scent.

•The depth of the litter in the box changed. Some cats like their litter deep, others shallow.

•Your cat has outgrown the box and needs a larger one.

•The box is too hard to enter and exit.

Tips On How To Stop Your Cat From Urinating And Defecating Outside The Litter Box

If your cat has picked out a particular room to soil try closing the door to that room.

Put a bowl of food over the target area, as cats like to keep their eating area away from their “bathroom”.

Take your cat to the Vet on a regular basis.

If you have more than one cat, be sure you have one litter box for each cat and have an extra over and above.

If you recently changed residence, a cat might smell an area where the previous owner’s cat urinated. Remember that cat pee where the scent remains.

Do you know that it takes three to eight weeks for a cat to get adjusted to the new home, environment and people? Patiently train your cat and allow it to be familiar to a new setting.

Cats are very sensitive to change and are affected if the owner has no systematize lifestyle schedule. Handle and program your major lifestyle changes slowly and allow your cat to adjust together with you.

DO NOT PUNISH YOUR CAT.

Urinating and defecating outside of the litter box, also known as “inappropriate elimination,” is one reason why cat owners get mad and furious.

Never rub your cats’ face on the floor, or kick it and bit it. Punishments just do not work and creates stress to your cat, which may develop to behavioral problems. It will worsen the situation.

Have patience. Be prepared for a few setbacks. Being a responsible pet owner involves more than devotion and love. With your patience, praise and helpful cat training techniques, it is possible to keep your cat from engaging in inappropriate litter habits.

For more helpful information please visit www.odrsecrret.com

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How to Make your Cat Urinate in the Litter Box

What are Feral Cats?

Feral cats are cats that haven't been properly socialized. What this means behaviorally is that feral cats are not tame toward humans. Very often, feral cats result from the offspring of cats that were once owned and then abandoned. As a result, the kittens are not properly socialized to humans and become feral.

There is a critical period during kitten development in which kittens must be exposed to human caretakers, otherwise they will be feral or at least semi-feral. This critical developmental period is generally from birth to 8 weeks old. If the first human exposure occurs past the age of 8 weeks this usually results in a feral or semi-feral cat. Sometimes older feral kittens can be tamed toward one or two human caretakers.

What to do if You Find a Feral Cat or Kitten

Many well meaning cat lovers will find feral kittens and take them to their local animal shelter. Unfortunately, feral kittens aren't very adoptable and most of the time animal shelters will destroy the feral kittens to make room for tame kittens that are more likely to be adopted.

Fortunately, there are some shelters that will spay or neuter the kittens and then return the kittens to their natural environment. This at least gives the feral cat a chance to live without the ability of producing more feral cats. This program is called Trap-Neuter-Return, and it is being implemented in many areas to control the outdoor cat population without having to kill the cats. It generally works like this: The kittens are caught in a humane trap, such as Havahart live animal traps. The animal is unharmed. Then the cat is taken to the vet or the shelter that participates in Trap-Neuter-Return and the animal is spayed or neutered and is usually given some vaccines. When the cat has recovered from the spay or neuter surgery the cat is returned outdoors in the same location where it was found. Trap-Neuter-Return is a much more humane way of dealing with feral cats and kittens than euthanasia.

Feral Kittens Can Also Make Very Rewarding Pets

Some people who find feral kittens take them into their homes as pets. This can be a very rewarding experience as you gain the trust of these special cats. It is also the best option for the well-being of the feral cat or kitten. Taking them into your home as a pet is even better than Trap-Neuter-Return programs. Taking them in as pets generally works best if you catch them when they are relatively young. The younger the better, although some people have taken older feral cats into their homes as pets and they have been fine.

It is also best to take in two feral kittens or cats from the same litter if possible. If this isn't possible it is best to have at least one other cat in the household because feral kittens and cats really enjoy the company of other cats.

Feral cats need to be kept as indoor only cats. Cats sometimes behave differently once they get outside. Because feral kittens and cats don't trust humans very much they may be fearful of approaching your house once they are outside and they may get lost. In general, they are very fearful of any humans other than the human caretakers that they have grown to trust.

I have four feral cats that have lived with me for about 2 years now and they have been very happy indoors. Three were caught when they were 10 weeks old and the fourth cat was caught when she was 12 weeks old.

For the first few weeks after I brought them in the house, all of the kittens used to hiss when I walked by them. Eventually they came to trust me and stopped hissing when they saw me. In fact, now they greet me at the door after work. When I wake up in the morning they come up on the bed to greet me the very first thing. They love playing with toys and with each other. They are still semi-feral, but there is nothing more rewarding than seeing how happy they are and knowing that they are indoors where it is warm and safe.

However, they aren't exactly like other cats. For the most part you can't pick them up. One of the kittens lets me pick her up and kiss her on top of her little head, but the other kittens don't allow it (Actually, they are no longer kittens, but they still seem like babies to me). However, they do like to play toys with me, and except for one of them, they do like to be petted and to have their fur brushed.

Feral cats and kittens would not make good pets for children. Basically feral cats that live indoors with humans like to do their own thing most of the time. They don't want to be held and will usually only let you pet them on a limited basis. Because of this they are likely to scratch a child that attempts to have more contact with them than the cat wants. The key to making a feral cat happy is to only have as much contact with the cat as it wants.

Also, you need to give the shy ones extra space when they are using the litter or eating. Sometimes it is best to keep their litter and food bowls in low human traffic areas so that they can feel safe while eating or using the litter box.

Vet trips can be difficult because they don't always allow you to pick them up to put them into the pet carrier. However, there are ways to do it. Sometimes you can throw their favorite toy into the carrier and they will run in to get it and then all you have to do is shut the cat carrier door.

Feral cats are well worth the extra work and they are the best pets ever! Also, because they only want limited contact with humans you generally don't have to worry about them walking on your keyboard while you are typing or laying across you newspaper or book while you are reading.

In my opinion there is nothing more rewarding then gaining the trust of these cats, especially if you don't mind taking their special needs into consideration. The reward comes in knowing that you are providing a loving, warm, happy home with plenty of food, water, toys, and veterinary care for these special cats.

For more information about feral cats and cat and kitten information please visit About Cats Online.com

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Feral Cats Can Make Good Pets

My philosophy is based on the more and more accepted theory that the allergy problem lies within the body's energy system, and the cause is a disharmony between the body's energy and that of the allergen.

It is this disharmony that causes a disruption, or blockage in the energy system which is what sets off the cascade of an inappropriate immune response which result in the allergy symptoms.

The object then is to retrain, or balance the energy system so it is IN harmony with the cat allergen. Once that happens, the allergy symptoms go away completely.

This is a workable theory, as it can be observed time and time again using effective modern techniques. (TAT is only one of several-but probably one of the fastest and most effective.)

But then, what is it that causes the energy system to become unbalanced in the presence of the allergen?

Is there any connection at all with the mind?

Anyone interested in the mind-body connection have read stories of how someone got the phone call that their mother had died as they are watching a bouquet of yellow roses.

Ever since that incident that person was allergic to yellow roses. (Not red ones, or pink ones-only the yellow ones...) The person was even allergic to yellow plastic roses...

Or the case when someone was in a rollover accident, pinned under the car in the grass, gasoline fumes wafting, and after that they get violently ill when around rag weed?

Or the verified cases when someone who is a multiple personality has one personality that is allergic to cats, and the other is not... (They are in the same body, but they have different memories...different memories causing different chemistry.)

So, then, what can be an emotional cause for someone to be allergic to cats?

Well, the causes can vary quite a bit, but in my experience, a frequent reason for someone's allergy has to do with the bad rap cats have had for hundreds of years.

I'd like to mention here, that it makes no difference if you like or love cats.

The bad rap is pervasive.

Let me explain...

Your mind is like a computer. Some of the data you get is like those temporary internet files- easy to delete.
Then some data gets saved onto your hard drive... Data that came to you from authority figures when you were a child, or data that came when you were in a state of acute stress or fear.

That kind of data was accepted without you having a chance to decide whether you wanted it or not, or whether it was true or not.

But, let's get back to the cats...

There are "Truths" about cats that resonate within our society. Let's see if you recognize any of them:

"Cats are sneaky".
"Cats attack without even being provoked".
"Cats are mean".
"Cats are stalkers".
"Weird people have cats". (as in the village "witch")
"Cats can steal a baby's breath..."
"Cats aren't safe around babies."
"The crazy cat lady"
"Black cat crossing in front of you means bad luck".

Add to that the FACT that in medieval times you could be burned on a stake for owning a cat. Even liking cats could get you killed.

So, many of these things are silly, yes? But, for a child that was told these frightening things, it was not so silly, and could very well have been saved onto the "hard drive"

Now, most of these things are completely on an unconscious level. But,,, these things get into your inner mind, and even though you don't believe them consciously, they are like a computer program. They will continue to run until you delete them.

I see this all the time working with cat allergies. And I also see that when the issue, or misinformation gets resolved the allergy goes away, for the most part, permanently.

Let me share a story.
(Details have been changed for anonymity )

Donna was severely allergic to cats. She would have reactions being around someone who had been in contact with a cat.

One of her favorite pastimes was garage sales, and shopping in second hand stores. Invariably there would be some item that had been in contact with a cat, requiring Donna to always carry her meds and plenty of tissue on her shopping trips.

Add to that, her grandson lived with 4 cats. When coming to her home he would have to undress in the garage, head straight for the shower and dress in the clothes that Donna provided for him.

Donna sure had some serious reactions to cats...

Gathering some info about Donna's allergy, she shared that the allergy started when she was pregnant with her first son. Ever since then (34 years ago) she had had severe reactions around cats.

So we did the allergy eliminating session with TAT which at the conclusion includes a statement where you state how you would like to feel around cats.
(Or how your body would like to feel)

Donna stated "I want to be safe around cats"

Now that took me by surprise, since I had already asked if she was afraid of cats, or had a dislike for cats. Or if she had had any incidents with cats.

(Most people with cat allergies are not afraid of cats, on the contrary they like them)

Then she said, almost with an embarrassed chuckle, "Well,,, you know,,, that thing about cats stealing the baby's breath and all..." adding dismissively, "But that's just an old wives tale"

So, reading this, you may have light bulbs going off...

Donna's allergy started when she was pregnant with her first child. She has, even though she rationally knows it is not true, had the belief implanted that "Cats steal the baby's breath"

Now, what better way for Donna to protect her baby from dying by a cat "stealing it's breath" than for her to get so seriously ill, a cat could never possibly come anywhere close to her baby?

See, this is how the inner mind works... (Fascinating, no?)

So, we did neutralize that belief using TAT and she had no allergic reactions whatsoever when around cats for a few months.

Then late one evening I get a call from Donna.

"Heeeeeeelp!! I had a bad reaction to a cat yesterday."

I was curious to find out what had happened...

Donna had visited a friend who had a newborn baby boy. As they are visiting the family's cat want to join in. As the cat gets closer to the baby, the baby's father says: 'Don't let the cat get to close to the baby, It is not safe"

So that was the problem. We had not completely neutralized the (totally unconscious)
fear Donna had about cats and babies. We did some more TAT addressing the baby issue, and she has not had one reaction since.

Donna could have spent the rest of her life avoiding cats, avoiding people who have had contact with cats, and taking medication when going out shopping.

But, she only needed to clear a misconception she had gotten, probably at a very early age, in order to be completely allergy free, which she is today.

To experience the effects of TAT for yourself, I have a free TAT session you can download on my Cat Allergy website.

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Cat Allergies -A Deeper Look At The Cause -And A Promise For Permanent Relief

Feeding Time

Most pet supply stores sell specially formulated cat foods that are designed to provide proper health and nutrition to elderly cats. Some formulas assist with proper digestion, since this can often be a problem with older cats. Senior cats cannot assimilate their food in their digestive tracts in the same way that they did when they were youngsters.

Older cats can also have problems with their teeth that cause them to eat less. This is why it is important to maintain good dental hygiene in cats at a young age by either brushing, taking them to the veterinarian for a cleaning, or feeding them snacks that clean their teeth. If your elderly cat eats less, it may be due to a toothache, thus it is sometimes ideal to feed them softer foods, mostly wet, canned foods, so that chewing their dinner won't be as much of an obstacle.

Many cat owners find that their cat's coat becomes dull with age. This is due to poor nutrition. Feed your older cat a diet rich in essential fatty acids to fix this problem. When organisms, including cats, get older, they have an increased production of free radicals in the body. Free radicals contribute to the degeneration of cells in the body. Help build up the immune system of your beloved cat by increasing his or her intake of vitamin C and E.

Finally, you want your cat to remain active in old age. The more energetic activities your cat participates in the better health it will remain in. If you allow your cat to become obese it will lay around the house and have reduced quality of life, as well as a decrease in general health. Watch your pet's eating habits and assure that it is not overeating, or eating as a recreation as some cats do.

Grooming Elderly Cats

Another element of proper Elderly Cat Care is grooming. When cats age, they sometimes stop grooming themselves with the same frequency as they did when they were younger. This can create a matted fur coat that is dirty and smells bad. Bad hygiene will eventually lead to bad health. Because of this, it is important that you groom your eldery cat yourself. Purchase a good cat brush that doesn't just brush the outer coat, but one with bristles that reach down to the skin to pull up old hair.

It sometimes helps to give your cat a bath, even though most cats hate them with a passion. The best way to wash a cat is to place them in the tub and gradually introduce water. You certainly don't want to throw them into the tub with hot water running inside! You may get a deep claw mark in the arm that will never heal and remind you to never do that again. If you apply water gradually to the cat's coat until they are completely wet and then work in some shampoo quickly, you should be able to accomplish that goal.

Vet Visits and Medication

When your cat grows into old age, it may have health complications that require regular medication. You should schedule a regular vet appointment for your elderly cat to assure that you are keeping up with all details of its health regimen. In older age, cats may seem fine but still have complications. Ask your veterinarian to give your cat a blood and urine test to find out if there is anything to be concerned about to head off any future problems. Going back to dental care, most older cats develop gum disease which can lead to health problems down the line. Gum disease can be treated by your veterinarian.

Just as with a human who has to take daily medication, if your cat has been prescribed to take medications on a daily basis it is helpful to keep everything in one place as a reminder. You do not want to miss a day of any crucial medication as the system of your older cat is much more delicate than those of younger cats.

Pet Insurance

Insurance companies are coming to recognize the love that people have for their pets. Thus, there are many new pet insurance products popping up on the market. It is best to enroll your pet into an insurance program at a younger age to assure a more reasonable premium, but you may still be able to enroll your elderly cat into an insurance program where his or medical bills will be partly covered in the case of a medical emergency. Some pet insurance companies will charge anywhere from $20-$50 per month per cat, depending on their particular situation.

The costs of pet surgeries and treatments can be way out of the budget of most households, so having a pet insurance plan to back you up can be a great asset. It will also give you peace of mind about your cat as it ages.

Activities of the Elderly Cat

The activity level of elderly cats vary. Some cats become inactive and spend most of their day sleeping or sitting. But other cats can be just as active in old age as they were in their younger days. These cats may still like to play with you, run, and chase the other cats around the house, but you just need to be understanding that they may not be able to participate in these games for as long as they used to. For example, a game cats love to play is "chase their owner." Instead of letting them chase you up and down the stairs as you did when they were young, maybe you could keep the activity to one level of the house. That way you will not overexert your cat and help prolong his time spent active.

Most cat experts agree tht a cat is generally healthy and happy when they are "bright-eyed and bushy-tailed." Another indication of a healthy cat is a lustrous, shiny coat, and a tail that sticks straight up in the air when the cat is walking. Proper elderly cat care is dire if you love your senior cat and want to keep it in good physical health.

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Elderly Cat Care

Do you love seeing your cat look fabulous? If so, you should definitely get your pet some excellent cat clothes. Wondering whether cats can wear clothes? Yes, that’s true, not only the pooches, but also now cats can get dressed up. However, unlike the pooches which get comfortable in the costumes with ease, cats won’t accept clothing as easily. Proper training is needed for cats to make them feel comfortable with clothing. Once you train your cat to wear clothes, the felines can dress according to the different occasions. These cat dresses not only make your cats look fabulous but also will be very comfortable to them. However, it is up to you to choose the best cat dress that perfectly fits your pet cat.

Cat Sweaters – Great looks with best comfort
'Cat Sweaters’- does that seem odd to you? Well that’s not odd anymore. If you love your cat very much you should get them a cat sweater to protect them from the cold. Cat sweaters are made of fine wool or the best quality acrylic and Mylar yarn which offer great comfort and warmth to your pet. However, it is important to select the correct sized sweater to ensure the best fit for your cat. There are very few pet clothes stores who offer custom sized sweaters based on your requirements.

Cat tuxedos
Do you love your cat so much that you cannot leave them alone even when you are at an evening party? Why should you leave them home when you love them so much? Now you cats can also dress up with cat tuxedos for evening parties and come along with you. Wedding parties, Prom nights, birthday parties – you can have your pet cat dressed up with great cat tuxedos for any occasion. Cat wedding dresses are also available so the female cats don’t get left out!

Clothing for your cat for different occasions
With your whole family dressed up for certain occasions, why should your cat – your best friend- be left behind? Cats can be dressed up for any occasion today. There are some cool cat wedding dresses too for your cat to attend the marriage functions with you. Do you like to make your pet cat look like a princess? You can do that too - there are fabulous princess cat costumes for your cat. Don’t forget cat swimsuits for those cats that love the water.

Cat clothes for Christmas
With Christmas just a few days away you will be shopping for cat Christmas costumes now. This Christmas, add some Christmas cat clothes to your shopping cart. The Christmas cat clothes will be a perfect gift for your pet this season. You can also surprise your guests with your kitty dressed in Christmas clothes welcoming them. When it comes to Christmas costume for cats, there are plenty of options to choose from. The ‘Jingle Bells Cat Collar’ will be the attention grabber this season. The ‘Cat Snowflake Sweater’ will protect your kitty from cold while they enjoy the snowflakes falling this season.

With lots of dressing options to choose from, your cats can look fabulous with different fashion cat clothes.

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The Best Clothing for Your Cat

First and foremost, realize that the first step to successful cat ownership is to love your cat. Filling in the blanks on the information you don't know yet will come. And here's some information and knowledge to get you started. Of course homeopathic care for cat is something that is all over the news right now, but there's actually a lot more to know then that.

Yes, cats shed. And the shedding of a long-haired cat is more noticeable than that of a short haired feline. Expect your cat only to shed at the change of the seasons. That's not so. Because of his exposure to a constant temperature and continual artificial light, your indoor cat sheds year round. But it's not nearly as bad as it sounds.

Here's a good piece of important cat care information, cats take care of a lot of their shedding on their own. They are fastidiously clean animals. You'll discover they are constantly cleaning themselves with their rough, sandpaper-like tongues. The very mechanism, though, that helps them to control shedding also contributes to one of their health problems, hairballs. Hairballs are a very real threat to your cat's digestion. They can block the food that's already been digested from traveling through his intestines.

So how can you tell when your cat is experiencing hairballs? You'll be able to recognize them if he coughs them up - as cats are prone to do. If you find cigar-shaped masses of some indistinguishable matter on the floor or on your furniture, you've discovered a hairball.

Sometimes, though, a cat will expel them along with his feces in the litter box. If you find that your cat's bowel movements have hair on them, that means he's got hairballs. Another symptom your feline may exhibit is dry coughing or a hacking. This will especially occur after he's eaten. In fact, if your cat has a sudden, unexpected loss of appetite, you may suspect a hairball is at the root cause.

So how do you prevent hairballs? Take matters in your own hands, literally! Brush! Brush! Brush! Groom you kitty often. Most cats find it most enjoyable and it builds a marvelous bond between you and your feline.

If you discover that your kitten may need more aid than this, there are many effective hairball remedies on the market today. They come in a variety of forms, from granules you sprinkle inconspicuously on his food to gels.

Thinking about declawing?

If you haven't heard, declawing your cat so he doesn't ruin your furniture or accidentally seriously scratch an individual is controversial. A generation ago, this operation was routine, many times performed at the same time the kitten got spayed or neutered.

The public today, though, is more widely educated on exactly what surgery for declawing entails. It's not just a matter of pulling the claws out of the kitty. To remove a cat's claws, a veterinarian must actually amputate the cat's paws at the first joint. This would be the equivalent you getting your knuckles amputated right below your finger nails. Ouch!

In order to perform the surgery, your veterinarian will anesthetized your cat as well as give him pain medication. He will literally cut the first section of your cat's paw off, since the claws are intricately intertwined in the first "knuckle."

Following the surgery, your cat's paws are carefully bandaged. Your cat will undoubtedly spend the night at the animal hospital. The following day you'll be able to bring her home.

Be prepared! Your cat - understandably - will be distinctly uncomfortable for several days following the surgery. (Actually, she'll probably be in great pain. But felines are wonderful actors. Cats hate to show that they're in any type of pain.)

Considering, though, the extent of the surgery, your cat heals quite quickly. You'll notice that your pet walks around the house rather gingerly. That'll last for about a week. After that she'll back to her old self.

To help prevent infection, you should replace her litter with some shredded paper. This avoids getting granules of litter in his already very tender paws.

Declawing your cat does more than just eliminate the problem of scratching. Her claws -and that portion of the toes that are removed, are valuable to her in another vital way. Removing her claws may throw her entire system of natural balance off.

A cat, you see, is classified as a "digitigrade." It's a strange label, but essentially it means that she walks on her toes. But, a cats toes are used for so much more! Her entire balance and form are based on the length of her digits. Nature, it seems, designed the cat's body - including her back, shoulders, paws, leg joints, ligaments, muscles, tendons and even her nerves! - based on walking on her toes. Because of this, her weight is distributed across its toes as it walks, runs and climbs.

That means a cat's claws are absolutely essential for her balance as well as for her ability to exercise effectively. Not only that, her toes - and especially her claws are vital aspects of her stretching. Notice when your cat scratches at a post (or, yes, your furniture!). We all assume she's just sharpening her claws. Not so! She is really stretching her entire body. When you declaw your kitten, it throws her entire body alignment off.

Hairballs and declawing. Not usually subjects that come up in everyday conversations, now are they? But these are only two of the important bits of information that every cat owner needs to know in order to give Fluffy the best of care. That, and your love, will help your kitten live a long and healthy life.

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Important Cat Care News

The key to effective training is consistency. Whatever you choose, be sure to do it on regularly, otherwise, you'll be sending your cat mixed signals. And that will only make it that much harder to train her. Forget about cat training in 10 minutes!

Below are ten "must have" tips that will get you through your initial phase cat ownership.

1. Cats really don't care that you punish them. It's true. If you've owned a dog, you know that punishing him will help change his behavior. It doesn't with cats. Bottom line. Don't waste your time. They'll sit there purring at you and just perform that same behavior again.

2. Corporal punishment is out of the question. Because a cat's body is so delicate, you can't "spank" a cat the way you do a dog to get its attention. That means when you're training your cat, you have to match wits with it. Don't worry. I'm confident you'll win. There are things out there like cat clicker training, but I don't recommend it.

3. Use a form of positive reinforcement. As you become a seasoned cat owner, you'll discover that it's difficult to catch your cat in the actual "crime". It's far easier, then, to reward your cat when you see her performing a right behavior. Keep some cat "treats" on hand. Feed one to your cat whenever she is doing something positive - like using the litter box or using her scratching post.

4. Keep plenty of toys - either store bought or make shift - around the house. Much of the "bad" behavior of cats is simply because they're board. The feline is by nature a predatory animal. Remember the scene in the Disney movie, The Lion King, where little Simba gets "pouncing lessons." When you think your cat is literally bouncing off the walls and tearing down the curtains, he's only practicing his predatory skills. Provide him with alternatives and he'll tame down - at least some.

5. When you're away, keep him busy. If your cat is used to company, he may get bored and inadvertently destruction while you're at work or are gone for any length of time. Here's a quick hint. Buy a timer for your television set, make sure the TV is tuned to an animal-friendly channel (an outdoor channel or Animal Planet for instance) and then have the television automatically turn on at different times of the day. Cats can see images on the screen. He'll come to investigate the noise and stay to watch the picture - at least for a while.

6. The value of a spray bottle of water. In some instances, spraying a cat with a harmless water bottle is enough to get their attention and stop the bad behavior. You only need a simple spray bottle that you use for misting plants. Squirt the cat if it misbehaves. Soon, he'll know that he can't do that.

7. Blow a harmless puff of air in your cat's face. Yes, this sounds crazy, but it really works. If your cat is literally in your face and you need to teach him to keep a certain distance and give you some space, try it. Blow a puff of air into his face. It'll startle and puzzle him. Soon, he'll associate the two and you won't be bothered by the unpleasant attention he gives you.

8. Make sure you cat has "a room with a view". You know what they say, "curiosity killed the cat." More appropriately, an irate owner went berserk over something a bored cat got into. Much of the bad behavior of your cat is simply due to his innate curiosity. Make sure he has a ledge or window sill that he can sit in comfortably to check out the birds and squirrels in your yard. If your window sill isn't large enough for him to sit for extended periods, you can by an extension at the pet store. Or, if someone you know is handy, you can make your own.

9. Spend quality time with your cat. As a training technique, this may sound a bit unorthodox. But, it's really a savvy move on your part. The more time you spend with your kitty, the better you'll be able to communicate with her. Cats definitely have a form of communication skills that involves more than just "talking." The better you know your cat - and just as importantly, the better your cat knows you - you'll be able "to read her mind". You'll just "know" when she's considering an improper move. And she'll know when you disapprove just by reading your body language and the look on your face.

10. Confine the aggressive cat. Reward the victim. Got more than one cat? Then you probably have that occasional "cat fight." Felines are territorial animals. They will get into a fight now and then over their "catdom." If you view the fight, your first step is to disengage the action. Using a water sprayer is the best method. Squirt the aggressor. Try to avoid squirting the victim. After that, confine the "bully" in a less attractive space. In the meantime, reward the cat who didn't attack - even when she was being attacked. Give her a treat and let her free roam the house. When you do put this pair of felines together again, try to keep them as supervised as possible.

These ideas are only the tip of the iceberg when you're training your cat. As you and your pet begin to know each better, you'll discover a language of your own. It may be through speech - you talk and she meows. But more than likely, the two of you will eventually be able to read each other's body language. You'll soon learn the subtle nuances of this very effective form of communication . . . and teaching your cat what she needs to know will be easier than you can ever imagine.

Post from: Pets Mall

10 Minutes to Train Your Cat

• Unexplained weight loss
• It's hard for your cat to breathe
• Your cat is constantly throwing up
• Really bad diarrhea
• The cat doesn't want to eat or drink
• Abnormal inactivity
• Lumps on the body
• Blood in urine or not urinating at all
• Abnormal behaviors
• Sneezing and hacking
• Abnormal aggressiveness
• They aren't using the litter box

If any of these behaviors catch your attention you should take your cat to the veterinarian.

No matter how clean you keep your cat there is always the chance that some little parasite is going to call your cat's body its home. If you are keeping a good eye on the health and well being of your cat, you might be able to determine when one of these pesky parasites are moving in.

Listed below are some of these parasites that you need to keep a look out for and how to treat them if they invade your cat's body.

• Ticks or Lice: Ticks and lice can be a very annoying problem for you and your cat. In order to determine if you cat is suffering from ticks and lice; you need to check your cat's body. You can decipher a tick because you will either see the parasite or will feel it like a bump on your cat's skin. You can actually remove these yourself if you know what you are doing. You just have to pull the tick out with tweezers, but don't break the body while doing so.

After the tick is removed you should clean the area with an antiseptic. Lice are much easier to remove; you might notice your cat scratching a lot and find that these pests are the cause, just use a spray or powder to send these parasites packing.

• Fleas: Fleas are a common problem with cats. Again, you can find these parasites with a quick examination of your cat's body, this can even be done while grooming your cat. Fleas are not something that you can get rid of on your own; you will need your veterinarian's assistance for this.

You may also need to look over your cat's environment to see if there is a particular reason they contracted the flea infestation. Make sure that after you have treated your cat that you do a thorough cleaning of your cats thins, wash beds, vacuum, and use other flea killing products to help clear these pests out of your home and away from your cat.

• Ear Mites: Ear mites have been mentioned earlier in this article because they are quite common in cats and can lead to many other health problems. This is why it is recommended to clean your cat's ears on a monthly basis. If your cat's ears begin to look a bit questionable and are not pink and clean, but waxy and icky smelling, your cat might have ear mites. You should take this concern to your veterinarian and have your cat treated right away.

• Mange: Mange can be transmitted by a variety of different mites, but you should be wary because this is something that humans can be affected by as well. If you cat begins to lose fur in patches, bleeds, or has issues around the ears, nose, and ears, you cat might have mange. You need to get your cat to your veterinarian right away if this is a concern for your feline friend.

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Recognizing If Your Cat Is Sick

Cats are creatures of habit. When they find a place to urinate they will return to that same place and continue to urinate there – the fact that it may be your carpet, furniture or curtains really has no relevance to your cat at all. Once your cat finds a place to urinate it is drawn by the smell of its own urine back to that same spot time and again. Cats like the smell of their own urine, they have marked their territory and they’re happy with that.

To stop your cat urinating in the same place you need to remove the smell of cat urine completely, not mask or hide the smell, as it will just come back and so will your cat. It really is simple once you know how and which products to use and more importantly which products not to use. You may think you need a professional remedy for cat urine – but you don’t! You don’t need a cupboard full of cat urine cleaners either. You just need a tried and tested cat urine cleaner

So let’s learn how to get rid of the smell of cat urine.

First We Should Understand the Problem…

• Cats are not big drinkers so the urine is concentrated and very potent and gives the strong cat urine odor.

• Cat urine is made up of several different bacteria strains.

• Urea and Urochrome cause the stains, which can sometimes be invisible.

• Uric acid salts cause the odor by bonding to surfaces.

• Cat urine dries on the carpet and the uric acid forms crystals in the underlay padding. The Crystals are the source of that strong ammonia smelling odor and are also the reason puss returns to that “special place”.

• Cat urine crystals are the hardest part to remove.

• Most household cat urine removers contain ammonia so they are going to make the problem worse not better, your cat will be even more attracted to that same spot to urinate as puss thinks it smells wonderful.

• We need to use a cleaner that will break down the crystals so we can get rid of the cat urine odor.

• Water only spreads the stain and will reactivate the uric acid crystals, reviving old stains and smells.

• Normal cleaners, if they don’t soak the area with ammonia, will mask the odor of cat urine for a short time, but it always returns and so will your cat!

• We need to remove both the stain AND the odor.

How to Clean Cat Urine…

• Soak up the excess cat urine from the area as soon as possible.

• Use a dry cloth or paper towel (I like to use old towels as they are absorbent by nature) – do not wet the area or the urine will spread.

• Blot the area - don’t scrub the carpet – it’s kind of like when you get an ink stain on your clothes, and you scrub it. Does the ink come out or does it spread? Cat urine works the same way in your carpet as the ink. (By the way to get ink out, don’t wet the area or it will set the ink – instead soak it in a bowl of milk – yes I said MILK - and then scrub from the outside of the stain in towards the center, a nail brush is good for this! I just thought I would throw in that tip for you – it comes in very handy when you have kids.)

• Hold the cloth or paper towel over the spot for a while – I find standing on an old towel will absorb a good amount of the cat’s urine quite well.

• Let your cleaning solution soak into the area, again use a dry towel, put it over the urine stain and put some weight on the towel. Put something heavy over the towel and leave it overnight.

• The main objective here is to be eliminating cat urine stains permanently so your cat won’t be tempted back to this spot again.

• You really need to keep your cat away from this area until all trace of the urine odor has gone.

• If your cat keeps going back place some foil over the patch until the smell of the urine has gone.

• You may need to repeat this process until all trace of the urine odor and stains have gone.

What not to use. These are not effective Cat Urine Cleaners…

• Ammonia Might - remove the stains, but it smells too much like cat urine so puss will just keep coming back to the same spot to urinate again and again.

• Water -If used by itself can spread the urine and makes the problem area so much bigger

• Citrus based products - Only masks the smell – doesn’t get rid of it permanently

• Liquid soap - Just doesn’t work – at all

• Bleach - Which smells worse – bleach or cat urine – I think it’s a draw! Plus bleach tends to fade carpet, furniture and curtains

• Carpet shampooing - Only cleans the surface, wont soak down into the underlay padding where the urine crystals are

• Hydrogen peroxide - Only removes the urine odor temporarily – the smell soon returns

• Oxygenated products - Only works on the surface, doesn’t remove the smell from deep down and can cause fading or discoloration in your carpet, furniture and curtains

What to use. How to Choose a Cat Urine Remover…

There are many cat urine cleaners on the market. You’ve probably tried some of them while trying to find how to clean cat urine, and possibly found they don’t work. Why?

The bacterium in cat urine can be very hard to kill, and until you kill the bacterium you won’t be removing an odor. You need an enzymes to remove cat urine. Get rid of the bacteria and you’re one step closer to getting rid of cat urine smell.

There is no big secret on how to select a cat urine remover. You need natural cat urine cleaners. Using a combination of products found in your home. Once you use an all natural cat urine remover, you’ll wonder why didn’t try it sooner.

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How to Clean Cat Urine & Remove Cat Urine Odor

The legal trapping of cats opened up by these new local cat laws will only encourage vigilantes who hate cats to have an ‘open season’ on cats in their neighborhood.  The Cat Haven, a well known Perth based cat rescue group have already reported incidences of cats caught in traps being drowned in lakes.  A horrible death for any animal with no chance of escape – and astonishingly still a set of laws introduced in such poor format by local councils that policing these laws is almost impossible. 

Very little forethought went into the ultimate outcomes that these laws would fester, if councils honestly thought that residents of their shire would act responsibly under these new laws they have already been witness to the folly of their naivety.   With cats being drowned in traps and my own experience of having my cat Simon being trapped by a neighbour in my own street and taken to the pound with no consultation with the shire.  I managed to rescue my cat Simon on Day 6, it was clearly a lucky day for him will your cat be so lucky?

Parts of these laws have validation with responsible cat ownership including limiting the number of cats per household, sterilizing cats, micro-chipping or identifying your cat with a collar & identification tag and keeping your cat indoors from the hours of 9pm to 6 am is also very doable.

What these laws fail to take into consideration is the intrinsic nature of cats and the impossibility of cat owners to always control some of their inherit behaviors which have allowed cats to survive well prior to their domestication.
 
Cats are highly independent creatures who value their freedom, they have instinctual drives to patrol their territory and to chase off any intruders entering their territory.  Cats have very strong maternal instincts and are predatory in nature and mark their territory with their scent to keep any other animals out of their area.  Cats rely on these instincts to get through life and expecting them to change these behaviors is literally asking them to stop being a cat. 

Cats cannot be trained like the dog species and forcing cat owners to achieve the impossible by preventing their cats from occasionally wandering into a neighbours yard is simply ludicrous! The harsh penalty of trapping cats, impounding them and having your cat euthanized as a result is a sickening and heart breaking reality now for cat owners and their families. That this type of action is being implemented by your local shire and your neighbours is just disgusting.

You can protest against these new local cat laws by  visiting  www.aussiecats.com  and having your say. 

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Suburban Cats to be Legally Trapped & Euthanized under new Local Cat Laws

What is IIM's CAT (Common Admission Test) all about?

CAT - The Common Admission Test to the six IIMs is also the entrance test for few other top B-Schools such as SP Jain, MICA, and T A Pai. CAT tests your skills in five broad areas viz.  

Verbal ability and reasoning Reading Comprehension Quantitative skills Data Interpretation Analytical and Logical reasoning.

So Guyz, I am trying to let you Bell The CAT ;)

Let's Start....!

One for thing Guyz, do you have good material to share ? Would you like to share it with others through this site ? If yes, then please Mail Me.

Bell The CAT 2010
Bell The CAT
Books for CAT Preparation
CAT Preparation
CAT Material

The test comprised 90 questions divided into 3 sections in the year 2005. Typically this test can be expected to comprise between 75 to 150 objective type questions and is usually divided into three to four sections. Each question has a question statement followed by four alternate answer choices and the candidate has to choose the best answer for each of the questions and mark it on a special Optical Reader answer sheet.

Over the years, the number of questions being asked in CAT has been decreasing steadily. While the early 90s witnessed 180 to 200 questions, the late 90s, specifically CAT 1999 and CAT 2000 had 165 questions each. CAT 2001, CAT 2002 and CAT 2003 had only 150 questions each and these 150 questions were divided into three sections of 50 questions each. There were 123 questions in CAT 2004 and only 90 in CAT 2005. CAT 2004 and CAT 2005 both had differential marks to questions. There were 0.5 marks, 1 mark and 2 marks questions.

The duration of the test is of 120 minutes. This literally translates to answering a CAT question in 48 seconds. Most successful aspirants do not attempt anything more than 120 plus questions. And quite a lot of them attempt between 70 and 90 marks worth of questions. The key to success, therefore, lies in two important parameters

1. The accuracy or strike rate

While each correct answer carries 0.5 or 1 or 2 positive mark, each incorrect question carries 1/3rd of the marks allocated to it as negative marks. Hence, it is important to get a strike rate of over 85% - that is reduce the number of negatives.

2. Smart Selection

As it is clear that you will not be generally able to attempt all 150 marks question, and you skip between 60 to 80 questions, key to success lies in selecting questions properly. Hence, there are no kudos, nobel prizes or awards waiting for attempting the tough questions. Be smart to choose, the easiest of the questions and the ones that you have practised a lot and smash them. Do not venture into unsafe territories or to questions which you only have a vague idea.

CAT and entrance tests of other top B Schools are a unique breed of entrance exams. They focus on testing some of the basic qualities essential for managers - the grit to work hard, smartness to choose the best alternative, quick thinking and above all perseverance.

Exams like IIT JEE test the depth of your knowledge, while the Civil Services exams test your width of knowledge. CAT evaluates your presence of mind and the ability to perform under pressure. You cannot prepare for CAT during the last 10 days, as one generally does for semester exams. A minimum of 3 to 9 months of regular preparation is essential. 

The test comprised 90 questions divided into 3 sections in the year 2005. Typically this test can be expected to comprise between 75 to 150 objective type questions and is usually divided into three to four sections. Each question has a question statement followed by four alternate answer choices and the candidate has to choose the best answer for each of the questions and mark it on a special Optical Reader answer sheet.

Over the years, the number of questions being asked in CAT has been decreasing steadily. While the early 90s witnessed 180 to 200 questions, the late 90s, specifically CAT 1999 and CAT 2000 had 165 questions each. CAT 2001, CAT 2002 and CAT 2003 had only 150 questions each and these 150 questions were divided into three sections of 50 questions each. There were 123 questions in CAT 2004 and only 90 in CAT 2005. CAT 2004 and CAT 2005 both had differential marks to questions. There were 0.5 marks, 1 mark and 2 marks questions.

The duration of the test is of 120 minutes. This literally translates to answering a CAT question in 48 seconds. Most successful aspirants do not attempt anything more than 120 plus questions. And quite a lot of them attempt between 70 and 90 marks worth of questions. The key to success, therefore, lies in two important parameters

1. The accuracy or strike rate

While each correct answer carries 0.5 or 1 or 2 positive mark, each incorrect question carries 1/3rd of the marks allocated to it as negative marks. Hence, it is important to get a strike rate of over 85% - that is reduce the number of negatives.

2. Smart Selection

As it is clear that you will not be generally able to attempt all 150 marks question, and you skip between 60 to 80 questions, key to success lies in selecting questions properly. Hence, there are no kudos, nobel prizes or awards waiting for attempting the tough questions. Be smart to choose, the easiest of the questions and the ones that you have practised a lot and smash them. Do not venture into unsafe territories or to questions which you only have a vague idea.

CAT and entrance tests of other top B Schools are a unique breed of entrance exams. They focus on testing some of the basic qualities essential for managers - the grit to work hard, smartness to choose the best alternative, quick thinking and above all perseverance.

Exams like IIT JEE test the depth of your knowledge, while the Civil Services exams test your width of knowledge. CAT evaluates your presence of mind and the ability to perform under pressure. You cannot prepare for CAT during the last 10 days, as one generally does for semester exams. A minimum of 3 to 9 months of regular preparation is essential.

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Crack The CAT – Let’s Bell The CAT of IIM Institutes in India

Breeding cats involves scientific and systematic concepts. Producing cats involves only common sense. Breeding cats has an emotional aspect to it. Fulfillment does not come from mere moneymaking. Sacrifices have to be made to achieve the breeder's
goal: to safeguard the welfare of the cats.

A lot of things must be taken into consideration before breeding cats. Here is a guide to help us better understand the dynamic process of cat breeding.

- A cat breeder's concern is the preservation or improvement of cat pedigree.

This is a serious matter. Selection of the parent cats is done on the basis of health, quality traits and reproducing capability. A breeder will never pair cats carelessly.

- A cat breeder is dedicated to learn more about cats.

A lot of things must be learned regarding cat breeding. Latest researches must be employed to properly select the cats to be bred. The welfare of the cats depends on how much the breeder knows.

- A cat breeder makes plans.

Breeding does not involve hasty actions.

- A cat breeder has to follow rules set by the government.

Breeders are obliged to register their cats to their respective breeds. Certain taxes are imposed to hobbyists and to businessmen alike.

- A cat breeder's primary motive is to take care of cats. Monetary motives come after this.

A cat's life is more important than money. And it is more rewarding to see the kittens grow. The money earned is just an additional reward.

- A cat breeder's responsibility to the cats does not end.

His care for his cats does not end when the kittens were sold.

- A cat breeder holds the future of the cat's offspring.

Whatever a cat breeder does affects the life of the kittens, thus extra care must be given by cat breeders when making decisions.

- A cat breeder knows when to stop breeding.

Breeding is not just about having many cats. It is about taking care of all of them.

After learning about these things, it can be concluded that breeding is an arduous task indeed. However, for those who are cat breeders at heart, all these hardships are worth the kittens they bred (not produced)!

Cats are best bought from responsible cat breeders. Hobbyists choose to own purebred cats because their temperaments are more predictable than cats with unknown pedigrees.

If you are getting a cat from a cat breeder, ask him about the number of cat breeds that he has so you can choose from them. Also, ask him how many years he has been breeding cats and whether he can give you a health guarantee and complete papers for the cat.

Top cat breeds:

If you want to show off your cat then it is best to choose from among the top five cat breeds throughout the world.

1. Persian-Persian cats are called Persian for their country of origin. Persians have a long coat, sweet personality and have the ability to blend into the household. These are the qualities that made Persians one of the top choices of cat lovers. However, its long coat requires daily combing to avoid tangles.

2. Maine Coon-These are long-haired cats with good mouse hunting skills. These cats are good companions for children.

3. Exotic-This breed can offer you the better of two worlds. The Exotic cat has the look of a Persian cat, but it has short hair, making it easy to groom. They look like teddy bears with their thick and short coats. These cats are sweet and good companions like the Persians.

4. Siamese-Siamese cats originally came from Siam or Thailand. This cat possesses an aristocratic head, looks almost like a deer because of it's stiff ears, and has a short coat. Siamese cats have long bodies, long legs and long necks.

5. Abyssinian-These cats are very elegant-looking, much like the cats portrayed in Egyptian sculptures. Abyssinia is the former name of Ethiopia. However, Abyssinian cats did not originate in Ethiopia. They got the name because the first cats of Abyssinian breed, which were exhibited in England, were from Abyssinia.

No matter what your choice of a cat breed is, make sure that your cat is healthy and that it has already been weaned. The ideal age to get a kitten is about 14 weeks, when their immune systems are already developed.

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Top Cat Breeds And Tips On Responsible Cat Breeding

Cat litter is used as a filling material for cat litter boxes where house cats defecate or urinate. The cat litter is supposed to absorb the moisture and reduce the bad smell coming from urine and feces, making the litter box more bearable at home. Pine cat litter fulfills these roles remarkably well, making it one of the best choices as a litter box filler.

There are different kinds of cat litter available in the market, allowing cat owners to choose from the wide variety according to their tastes and purposes. Some cat lovers choose cat litter for their odor control and absorbing power. Others choose cat litter that cannot easily be scattered all over the house. Some buy cat litter because they are biodegradable and environment friendly. Pine cat litter apparently can fulfill these considerations as it quite absorbent, track-resistant, and easy to dispose of.

Pine cat litter is a very much recommended type of cat litter for all cat lovers everywhere. A lot of people who have tried other kinds of cat litter such as clay, silica, sand, have ended up using pine cat litter because of its many advantages. There were people who first doubted using pine cat litter, but eventually they realized that it probably is the best kind of cat litter available commercially.

What Makes Pine Cat Litter So Good

Pine cat litter is a very good choice among other kinds of cat litter. First of all, it is organic - a gift of Mother Nature. It comes from recycled materials and it is in itself recyclable. Pine cat litter comes from biodegradable pine sawdust, it can easily be flushed down your toilet in small amounts. It can also be mixed into your garden soil to be used as compost fertilizer, saving you the need to buy synthetic or commercial plant food.

Pine cat litter also does not contain silica dust, unlike other types of cat litter like clay. Silica dust can be hazardous to health, and it would not be advisable to have them in products like cat litter. The dust particles can go airborne and be inhaled not only by your cat but other members of the family as well and this can cause a lot of problems in the lungs. When inhaled, silica dust can induce bronchitis or even lung cancer. It is not worth the risk to get these diseases just for a cheaper brand of cat litter. Pine cat litter would probably be a better choice for you and your cat in terms of health concerns.

Some cat owners get worried that their cats would not welcome the switch from their old cat litter to pine cat litter. Pine cat litter may have a very different texture from other kinds of cat litter. It usually comes in pellet form unlike the softer texture of other types, which seems to be more comfortable for cats. However, cats are actually tougher than most people think and they can definitely withstand the rougher texture of pine cat litter. Some cats may even like the tough consistency better than the sandy and smooth grain of other cat litter types.

Pine cat litter can be the best choice for you and your cat. It does most, if not everything that you would expect from an excellent cat litter. It is a good absorbent and deodorizer. It is easy to clean up and can even have other uses after consumption. It is safe for your health and that of your cat's. Most of all, it is environment friendly, so you do not have to worry about contributing to the deterioration of the planet.

The next time you buy cat litter for your feline friend, consider getting pine cat litter. It is good for you cat, good for you, and good for the planet. What more can you ask for?

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Keeping Your Feline Friend Fresh With Pine Cat Litter

The pets who travel best are those who have been trained to ride in a car. If you would like to include your cat in your travel plans, accustom it to riding in the car. Ideally this training begins in kittenhood and it should be a happy experience for the kitten. Dont make the kittens first car ride a trip to the veterinarian. Begin by allowing the kitten to sit in the car to become familiar with the surroundings. Then take it for a short drive each day, even if it is only around the block.

If your cat seems unable to adjust to travel, you may decide that you and your cat will be happier if it stays home. Search out a responsible sitter or a boarding facility. If you choose to board your cat, make reservations well in advance of the trip, particularly during summer months and around major holidays.

The policy regarding cats varies with motels and hotels. Contact the reservations department in advance of your trip to determine if your cat will be welcome. Do not leave a cat unattended in a room. If a maid were to enter, the cat could become frightened and might run from the room. If, for any reason, you must leave the cat alone in the room for a short period of time, place it in its carrier or post a do not disturb sign on the door. If your cat is not in a carrier or in a secure location at your travel destination, keeping it on a leash is recommended.

When you travel with a cat, a change in its environment and routine may be a jolt to its feeling of security. Your love and understanding are needed to reassure your cat and to help it become a good travel companion.

Preparing for the Trip: If you plan to take your cat with you, be certain its vaccination shots are up-to-date. Your veterinarian will also issue health and rabies certificates which may be needed if you fly and will certainly be needed if you cross international borders. Carrying these certificate with you is a good idea. If you should have to board your cat during the trip, the kennel may require proof of immunization.

Your cat will also need its grooming equipment and its regular grooming schedule should be maintained. This is particularly true for longhaired cats to avoid tangled and matted hair which can lead to skin infections.

Do not feed your cat for at least three hours before leaving on a trip. Feed it shortly after arriving at your destination unless the trip is a long one. In that case, provide a snack and water during the trip. If the cats usual diet is not available at your destination, take a supply with you so no digestive upsets will be caused by a sudden diet change.

If your cat is accustomed to wearing a collar (a stretch collar designed for cats) be certain an identification tag is attached to the collar. The ID tag should give the cats name, your name, home address and telephone number including the area code, and, if possible, your vacation address and telephone number. Take pictures of your cat and write a description of your cat, including its height, weight, color, and any distinguishing marks to take with you. If your cat should become lost, these identification aids could make the difference in finding it.

Traveling By Air With Your Cat: If you are traveling by air with your cat, ask about what health certificates are needed. They vary with airline and your destination. There are usually two basic options for air travel. Some airlines allow cats to travel (generally for a fee) with their owners if a carry-on carrier fits under the passenger seat. The other option is to rent or purchase a flight crate which meets airline regulations and the cat is transported in the crate in the baggage compartment.

Because some airlines have limited space to accommodate pets, always make reservation well in advance.

On the day of the flight bring a cushion or blanket to put on the crate floor. Check to see if the water cup is attached to the crate door. The cup should be deep and not too full of water to avoid spilling. On a short flight, you may wish to detach the cup and store it with your luggage and provide water for drinking at the end of the flight.

To reduce the risk of air travel for your cat, try to avoid peak travel periods when delays and stopovers are longer. Traveling in extreme cold or hot weather could be dangerous if your cat must wait very long before loading and unloading. Plan the trip with as few stops and transfers as possible. Pets in transit tend to sleep the hours away, but during stops and transfers they may become frightened. Airport facilities vary and, as a result, pets may be left in the sun or rain without adequate protection or inadequate food or water during long waits between flights. At the end of your trip, pick up your cat promptly.

Plane travel is the fastest way to reach your destination, but some risk is involved for kittens, older cats or cats with health problems. If you have doubts, consult your veterinarian.

International Travel: If you are planning on international travel or relocation or a trip to Hawaii, keep in mind that certain countries require a quarantine at the owner's expense. When you return, a quarantine office at customs will check documents and inspect your pet. The official may require confinement of any pet you have purchased abroad. Normally this is in your home rather than in official quarantine. Pets purchased abroad all require proof of immunization, certificates of good health, and payment of import duty.

Traveling By Car With Your Cat: If you are traveling by car, a carrier is a must. It should be strong, well-ventilated and one the cat cannot escape from. Before traveling, place the carrier where the cat can become acquainted with it. Placing a favorite toy or blanket in the carrier may help accustom the cat to the carrier. Take the cat for several rides around town in the carrier before attempting a longer trip.

While you are driving, always keep the cat confined in the carrier. This ensures safe, comfortable driving for you and your cat. Place a soft mat or cushion on the carrier floor. During hot weather never put the carrier on the sunny side of the car where it will become overheated.

One of the greatest dangers to a cat is leaving it in a closed car, even for a few minutes during hot weather. Cars heat quickly and leaving windows open a few inches does not always provide sufficient circulating air to keep you cat cool and comfortable. Insufficient air can lead to heat stress, suffocation and death.

If it is necessary to leave your cat in the car for a short period of time, choose a shaded area. Leave the windows open as far as safely possible to provide air circulation. Keep the cat in the carrier. Check the car frequently and never leave your cat for an extended time. Motion sickness may be a problem with your cat. If this occurs and if taking your cat with you is essential, discuss preventive measures with your veterinarian.

If the drive is eight hours or longer, give the cat an opportunity to use a litter pan every three or four hours. If the cat is inclined to have accidents along the way, put newspapers on the bottom of the carrier and sprinkle cat litter on them. The newspaper and soiled litter can be removed as needed.

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All About Traveling With Cats

The Siamese Cat Song was penned by Lee along with Sonny Burke and over the years has also been recorded by Freddie and The Dreamers, Mitch Miller, Dave Stewart and Barbara Gaskin, Haylie Duff, and Bobby McFerrin. "We are Siamese if you please, We are Siamese if you don't please."

Both The Turtles and Petula Clark stepped into recording studios to make very different versions of The Cat in the Window, a song that compares a cat trying to get out of a window with the singer wanting to fly away. "There's a cat in the window, and he's watching all the birds go passing by, he'd love to fly out the window, go where the wind goes, and so would I."

Who can forget the Muppets recording of The Cat Came Back, a song about a kitty that just kept finding its way back no matter how far it was taken from home. "But the cat came back, she wouldn't stay away, she was sitting on the porch the very next day."

In 1950 folks were flooding into record stores and asking for I Tawt I Taw a Puddy Tat. Mel Blanc recorded the song, written by Alan Livingston, Billy May and Warren Foster, about the cartoon cat and canary duo Sylvester and Tweety. "I tawt I taw a puddy tat a creeping up on me, I did I taw a puddy tat as plain as he could be."

The Rooftop Singers followed up their 1963 number one hit Walk Right In, with Tom Cat a ditty about 'Ringtail Tom' who liked to go "strutting round the town" "And when he steps out all the other cats in the neighborhood they begin to shout." Fast forward to 1981 and the Stray Cats record a musically different song but with a very similar theme, the rockabilly Stray Cat Strut. "Stray cat strut, I'm a ladies' cat, a feline Casanova, hey man, that's where it's at, get a shoe thrown at me from a mean old man, get my dinner from a garbage can."

Norma Tanega apparently owned a cat that she named 'Dog' and liked to take that

cat for walks, hence her 1966 hit Walking My Cat Named Dog, which does seem to be about her real life experience of strolling around town with her pet feline.

Most songs though that include the word Cat in the tile, are not truly about cats at all. A great example is the fine song, Cats in the Cradle by Harry Chapin. No cats make an appearance in this song; instead the lyrics contain a very chilling message that every dad should pay heed too.

Bent Fabric, real name Bent Fabricius-Bjerre, had a hit in 1962 with Alley Cat, but this was an instrumental recording so it's not a song about cats. Instrumental too was Aaron Copeland's The Cat and the Mouse.

Cat People (Putting Out Fire) by David Bowie was recorded for the 1982 remake of the film Cat People. Great dark and menacing feel to the song but the words have no relationship to cats.

The cat in The Cat Crept In, recorded by Mud was actually a girl, as was the cat featured in The Rolling Stones' Stray Cat Blues, this one with exceedingly sharp claws.

They Call Her the Cat, by Elton John is about, well it's not about cats! Neither is Honky Cat, another Elton tune, that one is about a country boy moving to live life in the city.

Three Cool Cats, is a song that was first recorded by the Coasters in 1958 and covered by The Beatles in 1962 (but not released until 1995.) Of course this song is not about cats, but about three teenage boys and three teenage girls. The Beatles also recorded Little Willie John's Leave My Kitten Alone, no surprise to find that the song is not about a kitten.

U2 recorded a song titled An Cat Dubh, which apparently means The Black Cat in Gaelic, no cat in the song though, black or otherwise.

No cats are in Year of the Cat by Al Stewart, Cat Scratch Fever by Ted Nugent, The Lovecats by The Cure or in Cool for Cats by Squeeze. Who can say what The Cat's In the Well by Bob Dylan is about?

There must be countless other songs that have the words Cat, or Cats, in the title but are not actually about our feline friends. No doubt there are more songs that are about cats than those listed on this page, but those songs sadly seem few and far between.

But wait . . . wasn't there a stage musical all about cats. Cats, the musical by

Andrew Lloyd Webber, was first shown in London, England in 1981. Based upon T.

S. Eliot's Old Possum's Book of Practical Cats the show features song after song about . . . Old Gumbie, Grizabella, Mungojerrie And Rumpelteazer, Skimbleshanks, Old Deuteronomy, Gus, Macavity, and Mr. Mistoffelees. All of these characters are, of course, . . . Cats.

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Songs About Cats (or are They?)

1) How many times a day do you feed your cat?

Since cats cannot be exercised like dogs can, the only way you can influence your cats weight is by controlling the amount and type of food he or she eats. If the cat is being fed individual meals several times daily, there is often a tendency by the owner to offer the daily supply of food on several occasions rather than divide up the daily feed into several meals. This can also occur with cats fed dry food ad lib. Cats usually regulate their food intake, but continual exposure to large quantities of food may lead to over-eating and subsequent obesity if too many calories are consumed. In short, both several individual meals a day and ad lib feeding are fine, it is the total amount offered per 24 hour period which is the important figure.

Kittens should be fed small meals at regular intervals due to their tiny stomachs. Four or five meals are recommended at eight weeks of age, decreasing to two at six months of age.

2) Is your cats diet manufactured specifically for cats or do you give human food?

Some cat owners like to spoil their cat by feeding them human food as the bulk of their diet. Others have tried feeding their cat regular catfood, but find their fussy cat will not touch it, and prefers to wait for the inevitable human food offering, which soon becomes the staple diet.

Is it really unhealthy to feed cats human food though? Of course it depends what food. Remember that cats are carnivores, and require a high proportion of meat in their diet. They simply cannot adapt to a low protein diet, and will lose bodyweight if deprived of it. In fact, as a species they are relatively unique... a deficiency of the amino acid, arginine, in a single meal can lead to symptoms of lethargy, hypersalivation and vocalisation. Arginine is required by the cat to produce urea, a waste product resulting from the breakdown of protein.

Another essential nutrient for the cat is the amino acid, taurine, which the cat cannot manufacture sufficiently by itself to meet its needs. The cat's diet must therefore contain taurine in sufficient quantities. If a deficiency develops there is a high risk of serious and irreversible damage to major organs such as the heart and the eye. Taurine is found almost entirely in meat, confirming the fact that the cat is a compulsory carnivore.

Another disease of nutritional origin is that caused by cats eating raw liver regularly, who can suffer from a condition called hypervitaminosis A. Cats suffering from this can present with signs of lethargy, unthriftiness, a stiff neck and other skeletal problems. To play it safe, do not feed your cat liver more than once a week.

Reputable cat foods are formulated after extensive trials by pet food companies to provide the mixture of protein, carbohydrate and fat that suits feline physiology best. It is easier, cheaper and possibly more healthy for your cat to be fed a reputable cat food diet, with occasional treats if desired (tuna, liver etc).

3) Which is better out of dry cat food or wet cat food?

Most vets recommend complete dry biscuit based cat food. This is because studies have shown that cats on dry food diets are less likely to suffer from dental disease than those on wet food from a tin or pouch. The physical motion of biting these biscuits helps prevent tartar from adhering to the surface of the tooth. However, even cats with no teeth can eat biscuit based food without a problem, as they just scoop up the biscuits with their tongue and swallow them whole. Another advantage of dry food is that it does not spoil as quickly which is useful for cats that are fed ad lib.

There are occasionally reasons why a wet food is preferable, as a method to increase the water consumption in a cat with a urinary problem such as cystitis.

4) Which is the best cat food to choose?

There are so many different brands of cat food on the market, the best one is basically a matter of opinion. Certainly palatability is a factor, there is no point in purchasing a particular food if your cat cannot stand it, although this is occasionally a necessity in cats requiring prescription diets. Rather than recommending you a specific brand, we suggest that you choose one which adheres to the criteria below.

Cat foods labeled as complete and balanced must meet standards established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by meeting a nutrient profile or by passing a feeding trial. There are now two separate nutrient profiles for cats - one for growth (kittens) and one for maintenance (adults). Maximum levels of intake of some nutrients have been established for the first time because of the concern that overnutrition, rather than undernutrition, is a bigger problem with many pet foods today. The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content of foods. If you are prepared to get technical, you should choose a food that comes closest to AAFCO recommendations.

In summary, consider the following points:

Choose a food that suits your cats age. Most big pet food companies will have different foods for kittens vs adults. Cats with medical conditions may be recommended special prescription diets.

Choose a food that come closest to AAFCO recommendations.

The ingredients contains the truth about a particular food. Everything else is there only for marketing purposes.

There are no legal and scientific definitions for the terms "premium," "super premium," "quality," or "natural."

Use dry matter numbers to evaluate and compare foods.

The source of ingredients (e.g. animal vs vegetable) does not matter, except in the case of food allergies.

Avoid supplementation. All commercial cat foods have more than enough protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Feeding your cat a good food incorrectly can lead to significant problems.

5) My cat is overweight, but no matter how hard I try I cannot get him to lose weight. What can I do?

Your cat is almost certainly being fed too much. Below some common mistakes are listed. Have a good look at these and make sure none of them could apply to your cat.

Not following the guidelines on the packet when measuring a portion. Most cat foods will have a table on the packaging suggesting daily portions for cats of different weights. The weight of food suggested is per 24 hrs, not per portion! Use your kitchen weighing scales to measure out the portion until you are sure of the correct amount.

Using a complete dry diet as a replacement for regular biscuits, and mixing it with wet cat food. If it says complete, you should not mix it with anything or you will overfeed.

Offering inappropriate food that is high in fat, or cream/full fat milk to drink.

Several members of the household feeding the cat at different times, whenever the cat is meows for food.

Giving the cat regular treats in addition to its main meal.

The cat is getting fed by neighbors, who think they are being kind by feeding it and enjoy the attention it gives them.

The cat is scavenging food from outside sources, such as other peoples bins.

The cat is part of a multi-cat household and is stealing food from the other cat(s), or even the dog.

Keep an open mind. If there is a possibility that any of the above scenarios might be the case with your cat, investigate it. If you are still at a loss, consider starting a prescription diet (see below).

6) I have heard you can get special light diets, or prescription diets for fat cats. Do they really work?

Yes they do, if used properly. These types of cat food are available in complete wet (tinned or pouches) form or dry (biscuit) form, and are growing in popularity amongst conscientious pet owners. They are low in calories and high in fibre, and often contain high levels of L-carnitine. L-carnitine has been used to help with fat metabolism in other species and recent scientific work indicates that it helps reduce weight in overweight dogs and cats. The real benefit of these low calorie diets though is that because of its low calories, cats can still eat reasonable sized portions and therefore feel full. This means they are more content and less likely to beg and look for extra food.

These diets are perfectly healthy for normal sized cats to eat too, so if you have a multi cat household and it is unfeasible to separate the cats during feeding time, you can safely feed all of the cats the prescription diet together.

7) Where can I buy this low calorie food from?

Many of the big pet food companies are waking up to the problem of pet obesity, and adding light versions to their range. However, they are unlikely to be as effective as the traditional prescription diets that are on the market.

They are known as prescription diets, because they are a specialist food normally prescribed by a veterinarian. However, you do not need a prescription to buy the food as it is a general sales list product. These foods are rarely available in supermarkets as many supermarkets are keen to sell their own brand, or have deals with the big pet food manufacturers. Many owners but their prescription diet from their veterinary clinic for convenience, whilst others prefer to shop around to get the best price. Many online pharmacies and pet stores are now offering these prescription foods, but whilst they may appear cheaper online, watch out for delivery charges added on top.

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Does Your Cat Have A Healthy Diet?

Here's a step-by-step guide to help stop litter box problems in a multi-cat home. first of all, act fast. A litter box problem that continues for a long time can become harder and harder to solve. Litter box mistakes can lead to territorial responses, and disturb the routines and hierarchies of your entire household.

Will Muffin still want to take her daily afternoon snooze on the couch if Tiger urinated there? She may find some other area, displacing more and more of your cats, and creating fighting and other dominance displays. If you put off solving the problem, hoping it will go away on its own, you may find it multiplying in your home.

Find the culprit. Before you even try to determine the "why," figure out the "who." If you catch it early enough, you can hopefully nail it down to one cat. Many people like to isolate each cat to determine which cat is causing the problem, but displacing one cat, even overnight, can sometimes lead to dominance displays in the others, as they claim undefended territory.

If you have new cats, or kittens reaching adulthood, you may want to visit the vet for help. Your veterinarian can prescribe fluoresce in for your cats, helping you to determine which urine stain(s) glow under an ultraviolet light.

Rule out a Veterinary Problem. Veterinary causes underlie many litter box problems, particularly in household with older cats or those with access to the outdoors. Urinary tract infections are one of many common causes, where the cat develops an aversion to the box as a painful place to be. Other health problems can also cause litterbox mistakes.

Worse, without visiting the veterinarian, your other cats may be at risk, which could cause the problem to multiply. No behavior techniques in the world will help a cat with a veterinary problem, so don't skip the trip to the vet.

Observe the Behavior. If the vet rules out a health problem, I next recommend a brief observation period. It's always very frustrating to the owner to let the cat continue his litter box mistakes, but it gives you the knowledge to attack the specific problem.

During the observation period, try to concentrate on the things in the environment that may be important to your cat, like litter boxes, food bowls, favorite places, the routines of the other cats and people in the home, etc. Start a journal where you record as much information as you can about every litterbox mistake, then look for links.

Does the cat always use the same room? Is it always on carpeting? Does it happen after meals, or at some other time of day? Are the other cats nearby? Did you have guests over? When you isolate the specific stimuli involved, it allows you greater control without making major changes in the environment that may upset the rest of the cats.

Break the Habit. Elimination sites are matters of preference, and when the cat gets into the routine of going to a certain location, you'll need to prevent the behavior from recurring. Since the smell of declining urine is a signal for the cat to "reapply," clean the accident site with a pet odor remover - perhaps multiple times to get past the cat's sensitive nose.

Block off the area while the product does its work. Remote deterrents, that work whether you are around or not, will keep the cat from returning to the area whenever you aren't standing guard. Double-sided tape or an upside-down plastic carpet runner, pointy feet up, can keep your cat from standing in the same area.

Cats also hate to be startled, so anything that can safely surprise the cat when he visits that area can help make the area less "cat-friendly."

Make the current litter box more appealing. While you are preventing bad habits, make good habits more appealing. The litter box should be clean, have privacy, and in multi-cat homes, escapability is also important.

This simply means that the cat can see off a distance, so he won't be ambushed in the box, or on his way there. Most cats prefer clumping, non-perfumed litter, but work with your individual cat to determine whether a box of a different size, shape, or litter would help.

Retrain the cats. If it doesn't seem to help to address the individual factors in your journal, or your cat has never regularly used the litterbox, you may want to retrain the cat by himself.

Use this as a last resort, since removing the cat from the hierarchy may upset the routines of all the cats in the home. Keep the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, with a clean litterbox, food bowl, and toys in opposite corners. Pick up all rugs from the floor, so the only soft place to choose to eliminate will be the litterbox.

Visit the cat often, and clean the box regularly. I also recommend recording the times that the cat uses the box.

Many cats stick to a regular routine, so once you've determined when the cat is likely to use the box, you can let the cat out during low-risk times to maintain the hierarchy, and put him back in the room with the litter box during high risk periods. Repetition of successful use will increase the cat's preference to the box.

General stress reduction. In some situations, it's difficult to determine specific environmental triggers for a problem behavior. However, sometimes general stress reduction techniques will prove helpful, particularly in multi-cat homes.

For litter box problems that have arisen from territorial disputes, additional resources may reduce competition for resources.

Extra litter boxes and food bowls are always helpful, but remember that YOU are also an important resource, so give each cat as much attention as they could possibly want. Exercise can also help redirect cats energies. It can also help desensitize cats to each other, while they are praised for attacking a toy while the other cat watches.

Routines are also very important in multi-cat homes, particularly when older cats are involved. Scheduled feeding, petting and exercise periods at the same time and location every day can further reduce stress that may be contributing to the litter box problem.

Litter box problems in multi-cat homes can be difficult. However, caring responsible owners can have an advantage solving the problem with they use quick, decisive actions and apply solid behavioral techniques.

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How to Solve Litterbox Problems in Multi-cat Homes