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As a dog trainer, living a structured life with my dogs comes as second nature to me. Their lives are neatly divided into three categories: work, rest and play. Because my personal dogs are free from the major problems plaguing most of my clients, I also allow them a certain amount of liberty in the home. I call this “I Have No Idea What The Dog Is Doing” time.

This article is not about training dogs. Whatever method you use to train dogs cannot succeed if the dog is living in pandemonium when not training. I’d like to write about living with dogs, not training them.

Unlike most “civilians,” my life revolves around the dogs. I know where they are and what they are doing almost every moment of their lives. They have earned those moments when they are loose and unattended. Yet loose dogs, not carefully observed by their owners, are those who cause the most trouble…and bring trainers the most business.

Housebreaking errors, chewing and incessant barking are crimes, yes. But typically, they are crimes of opportunity. Eliminate the opportunity and you also eliminate the crime. Simply stated, do that for long enough and the dog becomes so accustomed to good behavior that he barely remembers how to be naughty.

Another major contributor to dog behavior problems is when the relationship between dog and owner is not in good order. For example, dogs do not bite or growl up the flow chart, unless the behavior is driven be fear. However, dogs may guard space and resources from their owners when they perceive themselves to be above the owner on the flow chart of authority.

Since I’m talking about authority and relationship, the question arises as to whether this concept is the same as dominance and submission. It also brings to mind the question of whether humans and dogs can enjoy partnership as opposed to relationship based strictly on authority and respect for same. To speak to this issue, let’s first examine how dogs relate in the pack.

In observing my own three dogs as they live with one another I have come to some conclusions about this matter. My Doberman is the pack leader. Either of the other two will yield to him on any issue he chooses. The Border Collie mix is next in line. He does not challenge the Dobe on any issue of importance. Yet, he does demand this same respect from the Rat Terrier, who will yield to either of them if they demand.

Does this mean that the pecking order is clear, and ever present? Yes and no. Many a time have I seen the Rat Terrier playfully grab my tolerant Dobe by the throat, or bite his rear hock as he’s walking away. She’ll also steal a bone right out from under him if he’s not careful.

How can this happen and how does the structure of the dog pack permit such acts of defiance? Simple. The Dobe only puts his foot down on matters which truly concern him. From her body language, he realizes that the terrier isn’t seriously challenging him when she bites at him. So he responds playfully if he’s in the mood. Or he stops her with a hard look if he’s not. He does the same with the Border Collie, and so forth down the line.

And up the line. No superior pack member can or will force a subordinate to play if the subordinate does not wish. Each has a certain control over his own life and the lives of the others.

There is little serious discipline to be practiced among them precisely because the pack structure is well understood by each of the dogs. I represent the most critical aspect of the hierarchy. There is an unassailable law which applies to the entire pack, whether they are acting as individuals or as a group. They must each obey me, individually and as a pack. I have the right to place any of their bodies where I wish them to go. I have the right to take each of their resources. And I have the right to reinforce known rules upon any member.

It is this clarity of authority which allows the pack to function as a partnership. Even lower ranking members feel comfortable demanding their share of resources, whether it be jockeying for my touch, dividing bones, or sleeping space on the dog beds. I am quite sure that there would be a great deal more squabbling if my presence was not foremost in the dogs’ minds.

But the concept of work, rest and play has been deeply instilled into each of these dogs. Therefore, the abundant use of obvious authority is not necessary anywhere within the food chain. It is not often that my Dobe must fix the terrier with a hard glare. And it is not often that I must shoot one at him. That’s because I have rigged their lives with such a high degree of structure that each knows his place relative to the other, and to me. My dogs are under specific obedience commands only occasionally, when necessary. Life is relatively peaceful, and power is shared most of the time.

I constantly see clients in my home. They bring unruly or aggressive dogs into my environment. Therefore, my dogs are all accustomed to being crated when I need them out of the way. They cope easily with this confinement (rest) because they also receive adequate play and work time. It’s just part of the balance of life.

This balance is also the centerpiece of my training with client dogs. If the dog is living in my house, his schedule is quickly meshed with those of my pack. There are defined moments when we work, when we rest in the crate or on tether, and there are specific times when we play. Play is supervised and has rules. All good games have rules. My primary rule for playing dogs is that they not fight over resources such as toys or space, and that they moderate their play style so as not to overwhelm any dog. This does not come natural to most client dogs. They have to be shown that they can share and that they can play without overpowering. But once the dog realizes he will have access to all this, he’s willing to access them on my terms. That yielding to my rules doesn’t happen without gentle insistence on my part. I do insist. And it does happen.

For example, many of the dogs I train do not like the crate, according to their owners. Yes, for the first couple of days I find I must insist they step into the crate and remain quiet in there. Generally, by the third day, most dogs are cheerfully hopping into the crate for me under their own steam. That’s because they know they may randomly receive a treat for loading. They also accord me the power to ask them to place themselves within.  I also feed in crates, building the concept that this is the dog’s private, happy space.

Usually, a dog who respects your authority to place his body in a crate, is also a dog who will not growl at you for moving him off a couch, or otherwise taking resources. I believe a dog demonstrates this respect by crating himself when you point at the open door.

Quiet in the home as well as the crate is very important to me. I cannot abide meaningless barking. I do permit the occasional bark of happiness or alert. But barking without purpose merely serves as expression of a dog’s needless frustration. Once I have stopped useless barking, I find the dog far likelier to remain in a calm frame of mind. That is the state in which I want him to live most of the time.

It is a good idea to walk through the dog’s space occasionally instead of walking around. The subtle message is: all the space in the world belongs to me, yet I do share it with you. I think similarly of toys. I do have a bunch of dog toys, but they’re not scattered all around the house. I keep them put away in a box. When I want the dogs to enjoy them, I pull a few out and distribute them. Sometimes I even put my own saliva on them, marking them as mine. Not so curiously, those are the most sought after of the dog toys. If they’re good enough to belong to the boss….

I have a confession to make. Probably sixty percent of the learning experience I give to client dogs comes from highly structured, managed animal husbandry. It doesn’t come from training at all, at least not what we would label traditional dog training. Yet it is the most powerful form of dog training there is…living with dogs in a way that makes sense to them, and encourages them to collaborate within the pack.

Partnership does not mean equality. It means fulfillment to each, and to each his fair share of the “stuff of life.” Respecting the authority of the boss and respecting the needs of the dog enables each to partake of the relationship in a way that deeply satisfies both dog and owner.

Recently I trained a 14 week old Labrador puppy. I nicknamed him the Pirhana. This puppy was a major biter, with no bite inhibition. The owner’s girlfriend is covered in scars and scratches. I found the Pirhana detached from humans in that he neither asked for nor accepted any form of affection. He was not housebroken. And his play with my dogs was aggressive.

I lived with this dog for only ten days. But that ten days was composed of 240 hours, or 14,400 minutes, or 864,000 seconds. For each of those 864,000 seconds I managed that dog, whether it was how he was permitted to use his mouth, when he ate and where he eliminated. The result was a puppy who finally began to solicit affection, did not bite me, played appropriately with the other dogs, and who did not have a single accident in his last nine days of living with me. I also trained him to walk nicely on a leash, not to jump, and to come when called. Those skills took only a couple of hours to teach. The Pirhana , really named Frank, is an incredibly smart dog. However, he was a puppy completely devoid of respect for authority, and in fact, ignorant of the entire concept. It was the management of living with me that turned him around. The dog training was a small bonus.

The day after he went home his owner wrote to me:

Today was the first day Frank was truly a member of our family.  Sara (the owner’s three year old daughter) and Frank spent the entire day with each other and I have never seen either of them so happy.

Frank has become the affectionate and wonderful puppy that we knew was inside.  We have seen too many positive changes to even list.  The most important, and most evident, is that he is HAPPY!  Rather than limiting him, his boundaries and rules have set him free.

We realize that there is a lot of work to be done.  This is work we look forward to.  We have no doubt that the investment of time will pay dividends for a lifetime.

We look forward to working with you as Frank continues to grow and develop into the best friend he was meant to be.

Thanks so much,

Kelly, Sara and Karl

 

You can do get the same great results with your dog. I’m no miracle worker. All I did for Frank, formerly known as the Pirhana, was to manage his life and his resources long enough for his true nature to come forward. Frank is a dog. A dog is most comfortable in pack drive…the drive to collaborate with the leader and receive his share of resources including food, water, space, playtime, and love.

Some people are driven to acquire the fastest possible car. Or amass wealth. Or get the corner office. Others are driven to build a strong family unit, or to find the perfect romance.

What drives you?

Humans are composed of many drives and desires. We humanoids are complicated creatures. Dogs, however, are much simpler in their major needs and desires, or what I’ll call drives.

A dog’s most important need is the desire for social order, to follow a strong, compassionate leader. I call this Pack Drive. Pack drive can be best summed up like this; it is the desire to follow and collaborate with a clear leader. You can see this drive in action when you notice your dog trying to please you.

But dogs do possess other drives as well. Here is a list of the other most important instincts that literally drive dog behavior…

Prey Drive: the urge to chase, catch, kill and consume moving animals. You see this in action every time your dog chases a squirrel. Unfortunately, you may also see it when your dog chases your cat.

Play Drive: a modified form of Prey Drive, Play Drive is the urge to engage in mock hunting behavior. Play Drive is at work when your dog pounces on a squeaky toy and pretends to shake it to death.

Defensive Drive: the urge to defend himself, his pack mates, or his territory. Not all dogs have the drive to defend, and not every dog can stand up to the pressure of defending. A dog who reacts with a desire to defend, but who lacks the confidence to do so, generally shows fear before aggression. You may note this if your dog barks at the door, but runs away when you let someone in.

Fight Drive: If your dog stands his ground when confronted by threats, real or imagined, he may be high in Fight Drive, the instinct to take action to defend.

Flight Drive: A dog who does not stand his ground when facing a so called enemy or frightening situation, flees, and he is said to be high in Flight Drive. This and other drives are well explained in the works of authors Jack and Wendy Volhard.

It is important for us to understand what drives a dog, what makes him tick, in order that we may not only live with him peaceably, but also so we may train him in the easiest possible manner. To train a dog naturally, in a way that makes sense to his way of thinking, means the dog will learn to do what you want at incredible speed.

If that sounds hard to believe, think about it this way. When dogs play or interact, from the second they meet, they are exchanging information using body language. They speak much faster than humans because they can say “don’t come any closer,” merely by squinting an eye. So their language is quick and most dogs speak it fluently. This is why you’ll see dogs introducing themselves carefully at the dog park before playing. First each must know where he ranks in the pack, who he can be boisterous with, and to whom must he yield. Rarely does a dog fail to understand when another dog explains to him, “I am dominant. I would like to play with you, but please allow me to control the play.”

This happens in the blink of an eye and is the main reason there aren’t constant fights in dog parks. In fact, one of the rare times dogs do fight is when two dominant dogs meet and cannot negotiate a power sharing arrangement. This is rare, because they normally can work out a solution. Fights can also occur when a dog lacks confidence, is high in flight drive, and is cornered by other dogs.

Generally, though, dogs communicate quickly, and for a great reason. If they can instantly determine what their relationships are to be, there is limited need for fighting. And that is good for the species. Evolutionary success demands that social creatures work out their problems peacefully within the species, lest the animals expend more energy on killing one another than thriving. Dogs are a very successful species, and their drives, coupled with their ability to adapt, is the reason.

So what does any of this have to do with training your dog? Let’s go back and remember Pack Drive, the urge to follow and collaborate with the Leader. Dogs have this instinct for a good reason. If no one is in charge, chaos reigns. This means in the dog pack, no one has the authority to determine when we hunt, which deer is slow enough for us to catch, which dogs should pass along the best genes by breeding, and so forth. Lacking clear Leadership, dogs become nervous or aggressive…or both. In the wild, neurotic or unproductive aggression spells doom for the individual so afflicted, or for the entire species if those traits become common.

Dogs are born with Pack Drive so that their species does not live in chaos, thereby dying out. Instead, Pack Drive allows a Leader to emerge and keep the pack safe, content and well fed.

Training your dog is an important step in teaching him to meet your expectations. By recognizing how he his psychology functions, you’ll have a better chance of helping him understand what you want. Appeal to your dog’s need for social order by being a clear and compassionate Leader. By all means, share resources with your pet, just be sure you go first.

Here are a few tips that can help engage your dog’s Pack Drive so that he’ll see you as a Leader, and want to cooperate with you.

One, exit doors ahead of your dog. Encourage him to wait while you step through first.

Two, when walking your dog, don’t permit him to pull ahead of you. Instead, use any fair training method to teach him to walk at your side on a loose leash.

Three, ask your dog to sit before you feed him. Do not release an excited dog to his food bowl. Simply get the sit and stand quietly until he relaxes for a moment, then feed him.

Four, if you enjoy close contact with your dog, allow him to snuggle with you, but only when you have invited him to do so. If he gets in your lap without an invitation, take him off, have him sit, then invite him up as a reward.

Five, take your dog for a walk in a large open field on a 20 foot leash. If he runs ahead of you, simply turn around and walk briskly the other way. Before long, your dog will find it more pleasurable to keep an eye on you and allow you to pick the direction.

If you struggle with any of these matters, a professional dog trainer can help you upgrade your Leadership skills. Reward your dog only when he is in Pack Drive, attempting to please you. As Dog Whisperer Cesar Millan says, dogs follow a Pack Leader.

Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.

Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog’s way of saying “this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.” In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.

When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn’t expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he’ll face a swift correction. But that’s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.

But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster…a dog who guards something against his very owners.

In this article we’ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.

The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He’s guarding space. Moreover, he’s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.

You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.

In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That’s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.

I have actually seen adults chastise children for being “impolite” to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as “quirks” of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.

Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That’s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who’s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.

The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he’s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. “They just don’t seem to get it,” the dog is thinking. “I’ll have to warn them earlier.”

This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don’t realize that they’re not “supposed to bother the dog.” They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.

Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he’s laying on the sofa.

Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.

“Did your baby start walking about a month ago?” I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.

Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That’s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.

While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it’s tragic because it usually doesn’t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.

Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.

We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.

We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.

The reason we didn’t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn’t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.

But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.

In short, by sometimes invading Willy’s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior…in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.

Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn’t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.

We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.

Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now “fleeing” from the baby.

We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.

Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog’s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.

Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.

Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.

After starting a business focused on healthy dog products Distinctive Dog (www.distinctivedog.com), a new world opened up regarding the state of dog nutrition and what manufacturers do not tell consumers.

There is much debate when it comes to dog food, treats and pet nutrition. In the wild, dogs inherently hunted and consumed animals and plants. Their digestive systems were designed to break down raw meat while the enzymes present in the meat aided the digestion process.

Today, most domesticated dogs eat processed kibble containing primarily grains and refined protein sources. Once the meat source is removed, the remaining ingredients are mostly unnatural for the pet. Wheat, barley, rice, corn and oats are all man-raised crops that a dog would never eat in the wild. So how have dogs adapted to a diet consisting mostly of grains and processed protein sources?

To begin with, dogs are highly allergy prone animals. Wheat, corn, soy and barley are common culprits of allergies in dogs. The most interesting factor here is that most of these substances are not contained in the dog’s natural food chain.

Corn is an inferior protein source and some experts contend that the dog’s liver must work overtime to extract useable protein, which in the process produces excess nitrates. These nitrates place extra strain on the liver and as some veterinarians will say, is one cause of premature aging.

Wheat, soy, barley and white rice have very little nutritional value and are used by manufacturers to squeeze more profit out of their products. As a fun experiment, place your dog’s dry food in water for about 10 minutes.  If it swells dramatically, it probably contains high amounts of these grains.

There are a variety of theories on the affects of processed dog food and dog treats on our pets. Veterinarian John B. Symes writes and speaks on the affects of gluten, casin from cow’s milk, corn and soy on otherwise healthy dogs. He is a “recovered” celiac and believes these substances are blocking nutrient absorption during the dog’s digestion process.

Many of these ingredients are used as filler in commercial dog food and when mixed with water, create a sticky substance. Symes points out that the dog’s digestive tract is not designed to break down these materials and the resulting partially-digested sticky material coats the intestines, blocking absorption of essential nutrients.

“Imagine that a German shepherd puppy begins eating a wheat, barley, corn, or soy-based diet from the moment it is weaned. If inadequate levels of calcium and vitamin C are absorbed, what are the chances that its hips, elbows, spine, and other cartilaginous structures are going to form properly? I would say "Not good". Most people familiar with dogs know that this breed has a reputation for horrible hip dysplasia. But, they also have serious allergies and other immune-related disorders. This, of course, is no coincidence. Once it is understood that the allergies form in the area of the gut that is being damaged or coated by the ‘glue’, it is easy to see why the trouble breeds like the German Shepherd, Cocker Spaniel, Shih Tzu, and others have their ‘genetic’ tendencies such as allergic skin and ear problems, orthopedic abnormalities, intervertebral disc ruptures, and cancers,” contends Symes.

Another way dog food and treat manufacturers cut costs is through the protein sources. Most dog foods contain protein sources labeled as “meal”, “digest” or “by-product”. These ingredients contain meat sources that are deemed unsuitable for human consumption. Rendering plants process dead animal and other matter for animal feed, and yes pet food. With virtually no government regulation, these often contaminated protein sources pass as our dog’s dinner.

One regulation on the books was written in the National Research Council’s 1974 publication, The Nutrient Requirement of Dogs. It states that all mammals (except humans) are legally allowable “meat” for rendering as long as they are not decayed. Some states have passed an additional standard excluding dying, dead, disabled, or diseased tissues.

Deborah Lynn Dadd in her book The Nontoxic Home and Office: Protecting Yourself and Your Family form Everyday Toxins and Hazards states, “Each year about 116,000 mammals and nearly 15 million birds are condemned before slaughter. After killing, another 325,000 carcasses are discarded and more than 5.5 million major parts are cut away because they are determined to be diseased. Shockingly, 140,000 tons of poultry is condemned annually, mainly from cancer. The diseased animals that cannot be sold are processed into animal feed.

Now, there is no way to substantiate the claims but I do know that there is no real way to truly know what these ingredients actually contain. In addition, the food is processed at extremely high temperatures during the rendering process which kills much of the nutritional value that may have been present.

When we begin to examine our dog’s diet, one only wonders why dogs are prone to allergies and health issues. William D. Cusick, author of Canine Nutrition & Choosing the Best Food for Your Dog states that nations with generations of dogs raised on commercial pet food have experienced canine longevity decreases up to 50 percent. In addition they have recorded increases in cancers, reproductive complications and other health issues. Hypothesized reasons include environmental pollution, pesticides, vaccinations, urbanization, fluoridated water and commercial pet food.

Cusick furthers his point by stating that in identical environments, humans have increased life expectancy while dogs have decreased. Moreover, in countries where commercial dog food is unavailable these decreases have not been documented. This point cannot be overstated. It points to the dire need for structured research to substantiate the empirical evidence and governmental regulation within the pet food industry.

Today there is no way to concretely determine the health consequences of commercial dog food and grain based diets. As a result of these concerns, many people choose to feed their dogs a Bones and Raw Food diet (BARF). These holistic diets provide a diet closest to what dogs eat in the wild. Our pet’s stomachs are designed to process raw meat and they receive live enzymes not present in cooked food.

Another option is home cooked meals. This can be a tricky option because some human food can be toxic for our pets. A good book on the subject is Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets: the Healthful Alternative by Dr. Donald Strombeck. Dog nutrition is different than human nutrition, so I recommend you check with your veterinarian before considering either a BARF or home-prepared diet.

At the very minimum, read and understand pet food labels and ingredients. Ingredient labels are listed in order of quantity. Locate products with minimal levels of wheat or wheat by-products, corn, soy or barley. These are fillers that can adversely affect your dog’s digestive system and if your dog is allergic, they can cause itchy and flakey skin, dull coat and hair loss. These grains should never be listed as the primary ingredient in your dog’s food. Also, understand protein sources and ensure that the protein sources you are providing your pet are high quality and not from rendered sources.

As a general rule of thumb, do not look for quality pet food at your local grocery store or pet store chain.  Specialty pet stores often have greater expertise and can help you find the right food for your pet. If you are looking for healthy dog treats, many companies including Distinctive Dog Bakery (www.distinctivedog.com), offer home baked dog treats free from wheat gluten, soy, corn and other harmful ingredients.

Lastly, consider supplementing your dog’s diet with enzymes and probiotics. Probiotics are friendly bacteria that help in digestion and the absorption of nutrients. They prevent harmful bacteria from growing and causing problems including gas, diarrhea and vomiting. Enzymes help complement probiotics during the digestion process. Adding an enzyme-probiotic mix to your dog’s diet can improve digestion, create better hair coats and increase immune function.

Imagine that every time you attempt to talk to your best friend their response is one of harsh scolding words. Now picture this happening not once, twice or thrice but almost every single day. I’m betting soon there won’t be much of anything to call as friendship left! I’ll even go out on a limb here and hazard a guess that soon the two of you won’t be talking altogether. Perhaps you’d withdraw into some kinda shell or maybe the bombardment of negativity and criticism would drive you to lash out in anger one day.

Okay, now let’s picture this scenario a little bit differently in that you happen to be a dog and that supposed best friend of yours is your owner.  That makes it a tad more complicated doesn’t it, especially if your owner is not trying to be intentionally cruel or harsh but simply doesn’t understand how to communicate properly with you!

Okay revert back to your human form for now. Have you ever tried communicating with someone who doesn’t speak the same language as you? It isn’t easy is it! There’s a whole lot of arm waving, gesticulating, self-conscious grinning and facial contortions, much of which isn’t actually helping you to understand one another any better…and we are talking about communication between individuals from the same species here! That pretty much puts into perspective the monumental wall standing between you and your dog communicating efficiently with one another.

The very real problem here is that you don’t talk dogspeak and neither does your dog speak any human language but that doesn’t mean that you can’t learn how to communicate effectively with one another. And seeing as you happen to be the more intelligent species in this particular partnership, the onus is on you to create that better environment of communication. However unfortunately far too often this is not the case, more often than not it being the dog owner representing the party that gets irritated and confrontational during sessions of communication. If and when a situation such as this continues for a long enough duration this in turn could make your dog to:

•    Become depressed and withdraw
•    Start avoiding you
•    Whimper and slink about whenever you’re in the vicinity
•    Become aggressive and unmanageable

Communication With Your Dog Starts With Understanding Your Dog

Like us humans, dogs have their own standard dog etiquette that incorporates accepted proper behavior and quite naturally in the same way that we expect them to respond in a desired manner to our communication so do they expect no less from us. But as pointed out previously, being that we are two very different species, notwithstanding the fact that we have co-existed side by side for thousands of years, the inescapable fact is that dogs and us speak entirely different languages!

Thus to forge a better relationship with your dog you need to have a better understanding of dog communicative signals other than the obvious ones that comprise dog language.

Dog Language

Dogs bark, growl, yelp, snarl, whine, howl, warble and sing as a means of communication between themselves and other species such as us. Dogs can tell pretty accurately from the tone and inflection of our voices what kind of mood and state of mind we are in, much in the same way that we can judge their intent from the type of vocalization they utter. However there is only so far such communication takes usand the plain fact of the matter is that so much of dog language exists in the form of unvocalized signals; something the average dog owner is utterly unaware of.

Generally speaking all dogs no matter where they come from (thanks to their common ancestral origins, the wolf) understand what another dog is saying. However some dogs are better adapted to unvocalized signals than others. For example dogs that have docked tails cannot communicate dog signals that incorporate tail action. Also color patterns do play a part in dog language communication, and dogs that have black outline eyes with tan spots above them are better able to communicate eye-related signals because of such contrast. Completely black dogs or white ones are at a disadvantage from this perspective, which may explain why black dogs use the licking signal more often than the ones using facial expressions.

Common Unvocalized Dog Signals

Nose Licking:  Nose licking by dogs is one of the signals they use to show their discomfort or alternatively it used as a message to calm down other dogs or people in a situation in which the dog doing the licking evaluates as one that is too stressful.

Head Turning:  The motion of head turning could be a subtle swivel or a single swift movement; sometimes the head turning could be a prolonged side to side movement. Averting their heads is another manner in which dogs can defuse potentially explosive situations between themselves because by turning their heads away they are signaling non-threatening intentions in polite doggy speak.

Next time you are stooping over your dog look carefully to see if he or she turns their head away; if they do then they are evidently signaling to you that it makes them feel uncomfortable. If you pay special attention next time you’ll also notice that dogs rarely look directly at one another because it is considered impolite and rife with threat. When dogs are seated in group they generally avert their heads away from one another in keeping with polite dog etiquette (much like the way civilized persons make a point of not staring directly at the person opposite them in a subway car).

Eye Squinting:  Dogs narrow their eyes to express to the person or fellow canine to whom their gaze is directed that they have no ill intentions, and that there is no veiled threat implied from that gaze. Whenever a dog looks at another dog directly with no threatening intentions, the dog squints its eyes to make sure the other dog understands that no aggression is intended.

Dog Bowing:  Bowing represents a number of things in doggy language but most commonly it is an invitation to play. Dogs don’t only bow to other dogs they also bow to people and other animals. When a bowing dog also hops from foot to foot then unquestionably that is an invitation to play. Sometimes dogs also use bowing as a means  to calm or de-stress a situation.

Yawning:  A yawning dog does not reflect a tired dog; yawning happens to be yet another de-stressing signal in doggy language. This is one dog signal you can use quite effectively to calm your dog when it is anxious or agitated. These are just a few of the many unvocalized signals dog use to communicate with other dogs and us. You can easily use some of these dog signals to communicate with your furry best friend. However I wouldn’t recommend going around slobbering your tongue across your face; that may go down well in doggy world but I am not sure the same can be said in the real world!

Learn More About Dog Training

Dog behavior can be difficult to understand, especially for pet owners. Some dogs will chase each other all over the street, sniff each other’s bottoms, and then do a few nasty things that may or may not result in a litter of pups. Other dogs will growl at other dogs, bare their teeth, and then snap at other dogs. The latter behavior can be disconcerting to pet owners who are fond of walking their dogs, but who are afraid of alienating themselves from other pet owners who have less aggressive canines.

Dog breeders and owners describe this canine-canine war as dog aggression, which is technically a dog’s intent to do harm to another dog. Dog snap at other dogs is only one display of aggression, and it comes in the category of loud barking and growling at other dogs. Dogs show aggression not so much because they want to hurt another dog, but because they are defending themselves from potential harm. Such defense tactics are undertaken by dogs to gain a higher status over a potential rival, or simply because of built in instincts or traits that make them feel that they are dominant versus other dogs. Some dogs may also develop hormonal imbalance, prompting them to exercise dominance over other dogs by showing dog aggression.

Aggression is common, although some breeds such as bulls and terriers are more likely to display aggression as they age. If a dog starts off life as an abused or attacked pup, then he may be fearful of other dogs and thus exercise defense-based aggression or snap at other dogs. In particular, dogs can be aggressive toward dogs or objects that resemble anything that threatened or attacked them in the past. If your dog snap at other dogs, therefore, may simply be a sign that your dog is defending his or her territory, or is remembering something in his or her past.

If your dog continues to snap at other dogs, then you might want to take a look at the following tips to help you control your dog. If all else fails, take your dog to the vet or a canine behavior specialist for more information on how he or she can be made less aggressive or harmful.

- When dogs lack exercise, they can have a lot of pent up energy, and can actually be more emotionally and mentally unstable. Take your dog out often and make him or her exercise by jogging together, or by playing fetch in the park. This can allow your dog to use up all the energy that he or she has, giving him or her less time and resources to snap at other dogs.

- If you have a puppy, discipline him or her and start him or her on a disciplined life without abusing him or her. A well-disciplined dog is less likely to do harm, and certainly less likely to snap at other dogs.

- If you prefer a dog that is docile and quiet, then you might want to select a breed beforehand that is not prone to snap at other dogs or other forms of dog aggression. Choose toy dogs or retrievers if you have little time to undertake any disciplinary measures. If you are an experienced breeder or trainer, however, then go for terriers and bulls, but be sure to instill discipline early.

- Act as a dominant owner. If a dog senses that he or she is dominant in your house, or the seeming owner of it, then it can turn itself into the alpha dog and establish itself as the leader of your pack. It can then think that it has the license to snap at other dogs and display aggression.

- As much as possible, keep only one dog at home. The more dogs you have, the more defensive your dog will become, and the more likely he or she is to display aggressive behavior or snap at other dogs.

If you really want to stop your dog to snap at other dogs at the shortest possible time, you need a dog obedience training to help you transform you dog’s behavior problems. Did you know that you can put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s behavior problems by using techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover dog obedience training secrets to stop your dog’s behavior problems visit Dogs' Corner

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The Siberian Husky belongs to the so-called Spitz Group of dogs and has variously been known at one time or another under the following names:

• Artic Husky Dog
• Siberian Chukchi
• Chukchi Sled Dog
• Chukchi or Chuchi

The Siberian Husky developed as a purebred dog breed through its isolated existence with the native people known as the Chukchi that existed in the extreme north-eastern region of Siberia around Yakutsk located north of Stanovoi Mountains. Some legends in fact narrate how the word husky arose as a corruption in the pronunciation of the word “Chukchi” by European migrants to the region.

Some dog authorities are of the opinion that the Siberian Husky had developed as a purebred dog breed as far back as 3000 years ago through its isolated existence with the Chukchi. Unquestionably there is Northern Wolf blood in the Siberian Husky dog breed mix and for centuries from generation through generation it was customary for the Chukchi people to only breed the very best of lead dogs while neutering the rest to eliminate the reproduction of undesired traits. In this manner the Chukchi not only vastly improved the genetic lineage of the Siberian Husky dog breed but also consolidated its genetic purity as a thoroughbred dog breed.Husky Dogs

When the Siberian Husky dogs of the village were not working there were cared for by the women of the tribe which meant that the dogs had to be in close proximity with them and their children. Thus another trait which the Chukchi people bred for in their husky dogs was a sound and balanced temperament, since naturally they would not want aggressive and ill-tempered dogs hanging around their children. Ironically enough it was this pleasant nature and temperament of character that moved many people to dismiss the Siberian Husky as an insignificant sled-racing dog contender; that is until the Siberian Husky “got on the ice and started performing!”

Siberian Husky Dog Racing History

As earlier pointed out the Chukchi people of Siberia had bred the Siberian Husky dog to the pinnacle of work performance on the snow and for excellence of temperament. In essence they bred a superb sled dog perfected to carry light loads such as hunted game for extensive distances at remarkable speeds. The Chukchi’s unschooled dog breeding program was so successful that in effect they had bred the ultimate sled-pulling dog.

By the end of the 19th century news of these amazing sled dogs filtered to North America and in 1909 a team of imported Siberian Husky dogs debuted in a major sled race in Alaska. Although the Siberian Husky was dismissed by many as being far too small and docile to match competitively against their bigger and more powerful counterparts (the Alaskan Malamute and the Eskimo Dog both of which average around 100 lbs in weight as compared to the Siberian Husky dog’s relative featherweight of 60 pounds), as soon as the Husky started racing it quashed all doubt. Put simply, the Siberian Husky created quite the sensation by outperforming all the other dog breeds in the race.

One racer present was so impressed by the relatively “miniscule” Siberian Husky dogs’ performance he imported 70 of them to prepare and ready for the next race in 1910. He wasn’t disappointed. In 1910 his three dog teams comprised of Siberian Huskies dogs placed 1st, 2nd and 4th in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes Race, which covered a distance of 408 miles between the towns of Nome and Candle. The stage was set and from then onwards the Siberian Husky was recognized far and wide as the ultimate sled-racing dog.

Siberian Husky Dog:  Perfection of Form to Function

Once it made its stunning debut in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes Race, the Siberian Husky dog breed literally became an overnight sensation in sled dog-racing circles. Even so its phenomenal success baffled both spectator and racer alike. How could such a comparatively lightweight and small sled dog drastically outperform and outrace the bigger dog breeds such as the Alaskan Malamute and Eskimo dog; both of which were more powerful and boasted a longer stride.

The secret to the husky dog’s superior sled-racing skills lay in its inherent form that was beautifully adapted for speed sled pulling. At a maximum weight of sixty pounds, the Siberian Husky dog had attained the ideal pull- weight ratio for sled racing. An excess of 60 pounds in weight would result in a proportionally decreased surface area for heat loss or conversely a disproportionate increase in heat storage. Dogs are notoriously inefficient at losing heat, most especially big dogs, and such an issue would constitute a very big problem in long distance races such as those like the four-day 25 mile marathon race that sled dogs have to endure.

In short, selective centuries of breeding by the Chukchi people of particular dogs with their most desired traits for loaded-sled pulling on slippery surfaces at high speed resulted in a dog breed perfectly formed and designed for just such a pursuit. The Siberian Husky was that dog, the perfect balance of weight to optimal sled-pulling ratio at high and sustained speed.

Siberian Husky Makes Its Mark In History

In the winter of 1925 a very serious diphtheria endemic struck the city of Nome in Alaska. Being deep winter the only routes accessible at the time were dog trails that spanned across hundreds of miles of snowy plains. In an unprecedented feat of speed and endurance a number of teams of Siberian Husky dogs led by legendary Norwegian Champion Dog driver Leonhard Seppala streaked across 340 miles of unforgiving snow and harsh winter in a race against time to save the city. In what came to be known in history as the fabled “ Serum Run” Seppala and his team of Siberian Husky dogs saved the city of Nome!

Following their amazing rescue mission Leonhard Seppala and a team of huskies went on a tour across the United States forever cementing this dog breed in the hearts and minds of the American public. In Commemoration of the “Serum Run” to this day a statue of one of those heroic Siberian Husky dogs resides in New York’s Central Park. Later thanks to the significant role that the Siberian Husky dog played in military search & rescue operations in the Artic during World war II as well as Seppala’s State-wide tour people’s admiration for this dog breed was further consolidated. The Siberian Husky was officially recognized by the AKC in 1930.

Find Out More About The Dog

Dogs are certainly among man's best friends. However, in some circumstances, these animals also have the potential to be people's and other animals' worst enemy. As canines, dogs are equipped with sharp teeth and attacking techniques that make them dangerous when provoked and you have to deal with dogs’ aggression.

Dogs occasionally attack people and other dogs or animals. You may wonder what makes dogs behave violently. In truth, dogs are peace-loving and do not easily turn aggressive, unless provoked. Because dogs' mode of communications and concepts are different from man's and from other animals', there are some actions that maybe perceived by them as aggression or dogs’ aggression.

It is instinct of any living animal, people included, to protect itself when there is imminent danger. Remember that dogs just turn aggressive whenever they feel like they are threatened. And beware of dogs’ aggression, because dogs are truly destructive and rowdy when they get really angry.

Dogs' aggressive behavior

There are several types of aggression that influence dogs. Such dog’s aggressions are different and nature and are acquired by the dogs during different situations. To be able to learn how to properly and effectively handle dogs' aggression, it would be important if you would understand the nature of dogs' aggression.

The first type of dogs’ aggression is dominance aggression. This type is exhibited when the dog feels like he is the dominant organism in the area. This is not common to dogs, but studies suggest that this type of aggressive behavior is relative to the particular breed of dogs. Of course, fighting dogs are more likely to feel dominant.

If the dogs feel that someone, or some other animal, is threatening this sense of dominance, he would likely stage an attack. Several of your actions, like raising hands, clapping or tapping its head, could be interpreted by the dog as breaching its dominance or trigger dogs’ aggression, so beware.

The other type of dogs’ aggression is protective in nature. If the dog feels like you would attack it, it would surely retaliate in defense. The same goes for fear-motivated dogs’ aggression. If there is fear, the dog would not think and act naturally, making it become jittery and become aggressive.

There is a territorial sense in the dog, so if someone or some other animal intrudes its territories, the dog would turn aggressive. Dogs’ aggression could also be redirected. If the animal becomes mad at someone, but could not possibly attack him, the dog could redirect his aggression into someone else.

Dealing with the dogs' aggressive behavior

Now that you have a brief but concise background about the nature and possible causes of dogs’ aggression, you now understand what and how dogs could turn rowdy and dangerous. Make sure you try not to arouse feeling of threat or fear into the dog so it would not behave aggressively.

For sure, you now know some of your mannerisms and actions that could make your dog behave aggressively. Avoid doing those actions when the dog is around to prevent any possible attack or dogs’ aggression.

If you could not help the aggressive behavior, it would be better to seek professional help for dogs’ aggression so your dog could not harm anyone else. Prior to doing so, confine your dog inside a secluded place or a cage. Never let it loose free because it might suddenly attack or bite bystanders and other animals.

Do not punish the dog because doing so would only make the animal behave more aggressively. Because you are the smarter between the two of you, your dog and yourself, be more understanding and patient.

Do you want to know how to curb your dog’s aggressiveness? Put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog behavior problems and slash your dog obedience training time in half by using techniques that give you immediate results. Stop your dog’s aggression visit Dogs' Corner

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