This article is not about training dogs. Whatever method you use to train dogs cannot succeed if the dog is living in pandemonium when not training. I’d like to write about living with dogs, not training them.

Unlike most “civilians,” my life revolves around the dogs. I know where they are and what they are doing almost every moment of their lives. They have earned those moments when they are loose and unattended. Yet loose dogs, not carefully observed by their owners, are those who cause the most trouble…and bring trainers the most business.

Housebreaking errors, chewing and incessant barking are crimes, yes. But typically, they are crimes of opportunity. Eliminate the opportunity and you also eliminate the crime. Simply stated, do that for long enough and the dog becomes so accustomed to good behavior that he barely remembers how to be naughty.

Another major contributor to dog behavior problems is when the relationship between dog and owner is not in good order. For example, dogs do not bite or growl up the flow chart, unless the behavior is driven be fear. However, dogs may guard space and resources from their owners when they perceive themselves to be above the owner on the flow chart of authority.

Since I’m talking about authority and relationship, the question arises as to whether this concept is the same as dominance and submission. It also brings to mind the question of whether humans and dogs can enjoy partnership as opposed to relationship based strictly on authority and respect for same. To speak to this issue, let’s first examine how dogs relate in the pack.

In observing my own three dogs as they live with one another I have come to some conclusions about this matter. My Doberman is the pack leader. Either of the other two will yield to him on any issue he chooses. The Border Collie mix is next in line. He does not challenge the Dobe on any issue of importance. Yet, he does demand this same respect from the Rat Terrier, who will yield to either of them if they demand.

Does this mean that the pecking order is clear, and ever present? Yes and no. Many a time have I seen the Rat Terrier playfully grab my tolerant Dobe by the throat, or bite his rear hock as he’s walking away. She’ll also steal a bone right out from under him if he’s not careful.

How can this happen and how does the structure of the dog pack permit such acts of defiance? Simple. The Dobe only puts his foot down on matters which truly concern him. From her body language, he realizes that the terrier isn’t seriously challenging him when she bites at him. So he responds playfully if he’s in the mood. Or he stops her with a hard look if he’s not. He does the same with the Border Collie, and so forth down the line.

And up the line. No superior pack member can or will force a subordinate to play if the subordinate does not wish. Each has a certain control over his own life and the lives of the others.

There is little serious discipline to be practiced among them precisely because the pack structure is well understood by each of the dogs. I represent the most critical aspect of the hierarchy. There is an unassailable law which applies to the entire pack, whether they are acting as individuals or as a group. They must each obey me, individually and as a pack. I have the right to place any of their bodies where I wish them to go. I have the right to take each of their resources. And I have the right to reinforce known rules upon any member.

It is this clarity of authority which allows the pack to function as a partnership. Even lower ranking members feel comfortable demanding their share of resources, whether it be jockeying for my touch, dividing bones, or sleeping space on the dog beds. I am quite sure that there would be a great deal more squabbling if my presence was not foremost in the dogs’ minds.

But the concept of work, rest and play has been deeply instilled into each of these dogs. Therefore, the abundant use of obvious authority is not necessary anywhere within the food chain. It is not often that my Dobe must fix the terrier with a hard glare. And it is not often that I must shoot one at him. That’s because I have rigged their lives with such a high degree of structure that each knows his place relative to the other, and to me. My dogs are under specific obedience commands only occasionally, when necessary. Life is relatively peaceful, and power is shared most of the time.

I constantly see clients in my home. They bring unruly or aggressive dogs into my environment. Therefore, my dogs are all accustomed to being crated when I need them out of the way. They cope easily with this confinement (rest) because they also receive adequate play and work time. It’s just part of the balance of life.

This balance is also the centerpiece of my training with client dogs. If the dog is living in my house, his schedule is quickly meshed with those of my pack. There are defined moments when we work, when we rest in the crate or on tether, and there are specific times when we play. Play is supervised and has rules. All good games have rules. My primary rule for playing dogs is that they not fight over resources such as toys or space, and that they moderate their play style so as not to overwhelm any dog. This does not come natural to most client dogs. They have to be shown that they can share and that they can play without overpowering. But once the dog realizes he will have access to all this, he’s willing to access them on my terms. That yielding to my rules doesn’t happen without gentle insistence on my part. I do insist. And it does happen.

For example, many of the dogs I train do not like the crate, according to their owners. Yes, for the first couple of days I find I must insist they step into the crate and remain quiet in there. Generally, by the third day, most dogs are cheerfully hopping into the crate for me under their own steam. That’s because they know they may randomly receive a treat for loading. They also accord me the power to ask them to place themselves within.  I also feed in crates, building the concept that this is the dog’s private, happy space.

Usually, a dog who respects your authority to place his body in a crate, is also a dog who will not growl at you for moving him off a couch, or otherwise taking resources. I believe a dog demonstrates this respect by crating himself when you point at the open door.

Quiet in the home as well as the crate is very important to me. I cannot abide meaningless barking. I do permit the occasional bark of happiness or alert. But barking without purpose merely serves as expression of a dog’s needless frustration. Once I have stopped useless barking, I find the dog far likelier to remain in a calm frame of mind. That is the state in which I want him to live most of the time.

It is a good idea to walk through the dog’s space occasionally instead of walking around. The subtle message is: all the space in the world belongs to me, yet I do share it with you. I think similarly of toys. I do have a bunch of dog toys, but they’re not scattered all around the house. I keep them put away in a box. When I want the dogs to enjoy them, I pull a few out and distribute them. Sometimes I even put my own saliva on them, marking them as mine. Not so curiously, those are the most sought after of the dog toys. If they’re good enough to belong to the boss….

I have a confession to make. Probably sixty percent of the learning experience I give to client dogs comes from highly structured, managed animal husbandry. It doesn’t come from training at all, at least not what we would label traditional dog training. Yet it is the most powerful form of dog training there is…living with dogs in a way that makes sense to them, and encourages them to collaborate within the pack.

Partnership does not mean equality. It means fulfillment to each, and to each his fair share of the “stuff of life.” Respecting the authority of the boss and respecting the needs of the dog enables each to partake of the relationship in a way that deeply satisfies both dog and owner.

Recently I trained a 14 week old Labrador puppy. I nicknamed him the Pirhana. This puppy was a major biter, with no bite inhibition. The owner’s girlfriend is covered in scars and scratches. I found the Pirhana detached from humans in that he neither asked for nor accepted any form of affection. He was not housebroken. And his play with my dogs was aggressive.

I lived with this dog for only ten days. But that ten days was composed of 240 hours, or 14,400 minutes, or 864,000 seconds. For each of those 864,000 seconds I managed that dog, whether it was how he was permitted to use his mouth, when he ate and where he eliminated. The result was a puppy who finally began to solicit affection, did not bite me, played appropriately with the other dogs, and who did not have a single accident in his last nine days of living with me. I also trained him to walk nicely on a leash, not to jump, and to come when called. Those skills took only a couple of hours to teach. The Pirhana , really named Frank, is an incredibly smart dog. However, he was a puppy completely devoid of respect for authority, and in fact, ignorant of the entire concept. It was the management of living with me that turned him around. The dog training was a small bonus.

The day after he went home his owner wrote to me:

Today was the first day Frank was truly a member of our family.  Sara (the owner’s three year old daughter) and Frank spent the entire day with each other and I have never seen either of them so happy.

Frank has become the affectionate and wonderful puppy that we knew was inside.  We have seen too many positive changes to even list.  The most important, and most evident, is that he is HAPPY!  Rather than limiting him, his boundaries and rules have set him free.

We realize that there is a lot of work to be done.  This is work we look forward to.  We have no doubt that the investment of time will pay dividends for a lifetime.

We look forward to working with you as Frank continues to grow and develop into the best friend he was meant to be.

Thanks so much,

Kelly, Sara and Karl

You can do get the same great results with your dog. I’m no miracle worker. All I did for Frank, formerly known as the Pirhana, was to manage his life and his resources long enough for his true nature to come forward. Frank is a dog. A dog is most comfortable in pack drive…the drive to collaborate with the leader and receive his share of resources including food, water, space, playtime, and love.

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Dominance in Dogs?does it Really Exist?

What drives you?

Humans are composed of many drives and desires. We humanoids are complicated creatures. Dogs, however, are much simpler in their major needs and desires, or what I’ll call drives.

A dog’s most important need is the desire for social order, to follow a strong, compassionate leader. I call this Pack Drive. Pack drive can be best summed up like this; it is the desire to follow and collaborate with a clear leader. You can see this drive in action when you notice your dog trying to please you.

But dogs do possess other drives as well. Here is a list of the other most important instincts that literally drive dog behavior…

Prey Drive: the urge to chase, catch, kill and consume moving animals. You see this in action every time your dog chases a squirrel. Unfortunately, you may also see it when your dog chases your cat.

Play Drive: a modified form of Prey Drive, Play Drive is the urge to engage in mock hunting behavior. Play Drive is at work when your dog pounces on a squeaky toy and pretends to shake it to death.

Defensive Drive: the urge to defend himself, his pack mates, or his territory. Not all dogs have the drive to defend, and not every dog can stand up to the pressure of defending. A dog who reacts with a desire to defend, but who lacks the confidence to do so, generally shows fear before aggression. You may note this if your dog barks at the door, but runs away when you let someone in.

Fight Drive: If your dog stands his ground when confronted by threats, real or imagined, he may be high in Fight Drive, the instinct to take action to defend.

Flight Drive: A dog who does not stand his ground when facing a so called enemy or frightening situation, flees, and he is said to be high in Flight Drive. This and other drives are well explained in the works of authors Jack and Wendy Volhard.

It is important for us to understand what drives a dog, what makes him tick, in order that we may not only live with him peaceably, but also so we may train him in the easiest possible manner. To train a dog naturally, in a way that makes sense to his way of thinking, means the dog will learn to do what you want at incredible speed.

If that sounds hard to believe, think about it this way. When dogs play or interact, from the second they meet, they are exchanging information using body language. They speak much faster than humans because they can say “don’t come any closer,” merely by squinting an eye. So their language is quick and most dogs speak it fluently. This is why you’ll see dogs introducing themselves carefully at the dog park before playing. First each must know where he ranks in the pack, who he can be boisterous with, and to whom must he yield. Rarely does a dog fail to understand when another dog explains to him, “I am dominant. I would like to play with you, but please allow me to control the play.”

This happens in the blink of an eye and is the main reason there aren’t constant fights in dog parks. In fact, one of the rare times dogs do fight is when two dominant dogs meet and cannot negotiate a power sharing arrangement. This is rare, because they normally can work out a solution. Fights can also occur when a dog lacks confidence, is high in flight drive, and is cornered by other dogs.

Generally, though, dogs communicate quickly, and for a great reason. If they can instantly determine what their relationships are to be, there is limited need for fighting. And that is good for the species. Evolutionary success demands that social creatures work out their problems peacefully within the species, lest the animals expend more energy on killing one another than thriving. Dogs are a very successful species, and their drives, coupled with their ability to adapt, is the reason.

So what does any of this have to do with training your dog? Let’s go back and remember Pack Drive, the urge to follow and collaborate with the Leader. Dogs have this instinct for a good reason. If no one is in charge, chaos reigns. This means in the dog pack, no one has the authority to determine when we hunt, which deer is slow enough for us to catch, which dogs should pass along the best genes by breeding, and so forth. Lacking clear Leadership, dogs become nervous or aggressive…or both. In the wild, neurotic or unproductive aggression spells doom for the individual so afflicted, or for the entire species if those traits become common.

Dogs are born with Pack Drive so that their species does not live in chaos, thereby dying out. Instead, Pack Drive allows a Leader to emerge and keep the pack safe, content and well fed.

Training your dog is an important step in teaching him to meet your expectations. By recognizing how he his psychology functions, you’ll have a better chance of helping him understand what you want. Appeal to your dog’s need for social order by being a clear and compassionate Leader. By all means, share resources with your pet, just be sure you go first.

Here are a few tips that can help engage your dog’s Pack Drive so that he’ll see you as a Leader, and want to cooperate with you.

One, exit doors ahead of your dog. Encourage him to wait while you step through first.

Two, when walking your dog, don’t permit him to pull ahead of you. Instead, use any fair training method to teach him to walk at your side on a loose leash.

Three, ask your dog to sit before you feed him. Do not release an excited dog to his food bowl. Simply get the sit and stand quietly until he relaxes for a moment, then feed him.

Four, if you enjoy close contact with your dog, allow him to snuggle with you, but only when you have invited him to do so. If he gets in your lap without an invitation, take him off, have him sit, then invite him up as a reward.

Five, take your dog for a walk in a large open field on a 20 foot leash. If he runs ahead of you, simply turn around and walk briskly the other way. Before long, your dog will find it more pleasurable to keep an eye on you and allow you to pick the direction.

If you struggle with any of these matters, a professional dog trainer can help you upgrade your Leadership skills. Reward your dog only when he is in Pack Drive, attempting to please you. As Dog Whisperer Cesar Millan says, dogs follow a Pack Leader.

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Train Your Dog With Pack Drive

Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog’s way of saying “this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.” In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.

When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn’t expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he’ll face a swift correction. But that’s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.

But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster…a dog who guards something against his very owners.

In this article we’ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.

The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He’s guarding space. Moreover, he’s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.

You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.

In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That’s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.

I have actually seen adults chastise children for being “impolite” to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as “quirks” of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.

Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That’s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who’s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.

The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he’s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. “They just don’t seem to get it,” the dog is thinking. “I’ll have to warn them earlier.”

This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don’t realize that they’re not “supposed to bother the dog.” They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.

Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he’s laying on the sofa.

Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.

“Did your baby start walking about a month ago?” I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.

Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That’s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.

While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it’s tragic because it usually doesn’t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.

Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.

We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.

We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.

The reason we didn’t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn’t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.

But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.

In short, by sometimes invading Willy’s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior…in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.

Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn’t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.

We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.

Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now “fleeing” from the baby.

We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.

Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog’s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.

Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.

Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.

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Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?

There is much debate when it comes to dog food, treats and pet nutrition. In the wild, dogs inherently hunted and consumed animals and plants. Their digestive systems were designed to break down raw meat while the enzymes present in the meat aided the digestion process.

Today, most domesticated dogs eat processed kibble containing primarily grains and refined protein sources. Once the meat source is removed, the remaining ingredients are mostly unnatural for the pet. Wheat, barley, rice, corn and oats are all man-raised crops that a dog would never eat in the wild. So how have dogs adapted to a diet consisting mostly of grains and processed protein sources?

To begin with, dogs are highly allergy prone animals. Wheat, corn, soy and barley are common culprits of allergies in dogs. The most interesting factor here is that most of these substances are not contained in the dog’s natural food chain.

Corn is an inferior protein source and some experts contend that the dog’s liver must work overtime to extract useable protein, which in the process produces excess nitrates. These nitrates place extra strain on the liver and as some veterinarians will say, is one cause of premature aging.

Wheat, soy, barley and white rice have very little nutritional value and are used by manufacturers to squeeze more profit out of their products. As a fun experiment, place your dog’s dry food in water for about 10 minutes.  If it swells dramatically, it probably contains high amounts of these grains.

There are a variety of theories on the affects of processed dog food and dog treats on our pets. Veterinarian John B. Symes writes and speaks on the affects of gluten, casin from cow’s milk, corn and soy on otherwise healthy dogs. He is a “recovered” celiac and believes these substances are blocking nutrient absorption during the dog’s digestion process.

Many of these ingredients are used as filler in commercial dog food and when mixed with water, create a sticky substance. Symes points out that the dog’s digestive tract is not designed to break down these materials and the resulting partially-digested sticky material coats the intestines, blocking absorption of essential nutrients.

“Imagine that a German shepherd puppy begins eating a wheat, barley, corn, or soy-based diet from the moment it is weaned. If inadequate levels of calcium and vitamin C are absorbed, what are the chances that its hips, elbows, spine, and other cartilaginous structures are going to form properly? I would say "Not good". Most people familiar with dogs know that this breed has a reputation for horrible hip dysplasia. But, they also have serious allergies and other immune-related disorders. This, of course, is no coincidence. Once it is understood that the allergies form in the area of the gut that is being damaged or coated by the ‘glue’, it is easy to see why the trouble breeds like the German Shepherd, Cocker Spaniel, Shih Tzu, and others have their ‘genetic’ tendencies such as allergic skin and ear problems, orthopedic abnormalities, intervertebral disc ruptures, and cancers,” contends Symes.

Another way dog food and treat manufacturers cut costs is through the protein sources. Most dog foods contain protein sources labeled as “meal”, “digest” or “by-product”. These ingredients contain meat sources that are deemed unsuitable for human consumption. Rendering plants process dead animal and other matter for animal feed, and yes pet food. With virtually no government regulation, these often contaminated protein sources pass as our dog’s dinner.

One regulation on the books was written in the National Research Council’s 1974 publication, The Nutrient Requirement of Dogs. It states that all mammals (except humans) are legally allowable “meat” for rendering as long as they are not decayed. Some states have passed an additional standard excluding dying, dead, disabled, or diseased tissues.

Deborah Lynn Dadd in her book The Nontoxic Home and Office: Protecting Yourself and Your Family form Everyday Toxins and Hazards states, “Each year about 116,000 mammals and nearly 15 million birds are condemned before slaughter. After killing, another 325,000 carcasses are discarded and more than 5.5 million major parts are cut away because they are determined to be diseased. Shockingly, 140,000 tons of poultry is condemned annually, mainly from cancer. The diseased animals that cannot be sold are processed into animal feed.

Now, there is no way to substantiate the claims but I do know that there is no real way to truly know what these ingredients actually contain. In addition, the food is processed at extremely high temperatures during the rendering process which kills much of the nutritional value that may have been present.

When we begin to examine our dog’s diet, one only wonders why dogs are prone to allergies and health issues. William D. Cusick, author of Canine Nutrition & Choosing the Best Food for Your Dog states that nations with generations of dogs raised on commercial pet food have experienced canine longevity decreases up to 50 percent. In addition they have recorded increases in cancers, reproductive complications and other health issues. Hypothesized reasons include environmental pollution, pesticides, vaccinations, urbanization, fluoridated water and commercial pet food.

Cusick furthers his point by stating that in identical environments, humans have increased life expectancy while dogs have decreased. Moreover, in countries where commercial dog food is unavailable these decreases have not been documented. This point cannot be overstated. It points to the dire need for structured research to substantiate the empirical evidence and governmental regulation within the pet food industry.

Today there is no way to concretely determine the health consequences of commercial dog food and grain based diets. As a result of these concerns, many people choose to feed their dogs a Bones and Raw Food diet (BARF). These holistic diets provide a diet closest to what dogs eat in the wild. Our pet’s stomachs are designed to process raw meat and they receive live enzymes not present in cooked food.

Another option is home cooked meals. This can be a tricky option because some human food can be toxic for our pets. A good book on the subject is Home-Prepared Dog & Cat Diets: the Healthful Alternative by Dr. Donald Strombeck. Dog nutrition is different than human nutrition, so I recommend you check with your veterinarian before considering either a BARF or home-prepared diet.

At the very minimum, read and understand pet food labels and ingredients. Ingredient labels are listed in order of quantity. Locate products with minimal levels of wheat or wheat by-products, corn, soy or barley. These are fillers that can adversely affect your dog’s digestive system and if your dog is allergic, they can cause itchy and flakey skin, dull coat and hair loss. These grains should never be listed as the primary ingredient in your dog’s food. Also, understand protein sources and ensure that the protein sources you are providing your pet are high quality and not from rendered sources.

As a general rule of thumb, do not look for quality pet food at your local grocery store or pet store chain.  Specialty pet stores often have greater expertise and can help you find the right food for your pet. If you are looking for healthy dog treats, many companies including Distinctive Dog Bakery (www.distinctivedog.com), offer home baked dog treats free from wheat gluten, soy, corn and other harmful ingredients.

Lastly, consider supplementing your dog’s diet with enzymes and probiotics. Probiotics are friendly bacteria that help in digestion and the absorption of nutrients. They prevent harmful bacteria from growing and causing problems including gas, diarrhea and vomiting. Enzymes help complement probiotics during the digestion process. Adding an enzyme-probiotic mix to your dog’s diet can improve digestion, create better hair coats and increase immune function.

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How Dog Food May Affect Your Pet?s Health

Okay, now let’s picture this scenario a little bit differently in that you happen to be a dog and that supposed best friend of yours is your owner.  That makes it a tad more complicated doesn’t it, especially if your owner is not trying to be intentionally cruel or harsh but simply doesn’t understand how to communicate properly with you!

Okay revert back to your human form for now. Have you ever tried communicating with someone who doesn’t speak the same language as you? It isn’t easy is it! There’s a whole lot of arm waving, gesticulating, self-conscious grinning and facial contortions, much of which isn’t actually helping you to understand one another any better…and we are talking about communication between individuals from the same species here! That pretty much puts into perspective the monumental wall standing between you and your dog communicating efficiently with one another.

The very real problem here is that you don’t talk dogspeak and neither does your dog speak any human language but that doesn’t mean that you can’t learn how to communicate effectively with one another. And seeing as you happen to be the more intelligent species in this particular partnership, the onus is on you to create that better environment of communication. However unfortunately far too often this is not the case, more often than not it being the dog owner representing the party that gets irritated and confrontational during sessions of communication. If and when a situation such as this continues for a long enough duration this in turn could make your dog to:

•    Become depressed and withdraw
•    Start avoiding you
•    Whimper and slink about whenever you’re in the vicinity
•    Become aggressive and unmanageable

Communication With Your Dog Starts With Understanding Your Dog

Like us humans, dogs have their own standard dog etiquette that incorporates accepted proper behavior and quite naturally in the same way that we expect them to respond in a desired manner to our communication so do they expect no less from us. But as pointed out previously, being that we are two very different species, notwithstanding the fact that we have co-existed side by side for thousands of years, the inescapable fact is that dogs and us speak entirely different languages!

Thus to forge a better relationship with your dog you need to have a better understanding of dog communicative signals other than the obvious ones that comprise dog language.

Dog Language

Dogs bark, growl, yelp, snarl, whine, howl, warble and sing as a means of communication between themselves and other species such as us. Dogs can tell pretty accurately from the tone and inflection of our voices what kind of mood and state of mind we are in, much in the same way that we can judge their intent from the type of vocalization they utter. However there is only so far such communication takes usand the plain fact of the matter is that so much of dog language exists in the form of unvocalized signals; something the average dog owner is utterly unaware of.

Generally speaking all dogs no matter where they come from (thanks to their common ancestral origins, the wolf) understand what another dog is saying. However some dogs are better adapted to unvocalized signals than others. For example dogs that have docked tails cannot communicate dog signals that incorporate tail action. Also color patterns do play a part in dog language communication, and dogs that have black outline eyes with tan spots above them are better able to communicate eye-related signals because of such contrast. Completely black dogs or white ones are at a disadvantage from this perspective, which may explain why black dogs use the licking signal more often than the ones using facial expressions.

Common Unvocalized Dog Signals

Nose Licking:  Nose licking by dogs is one of the signals they use to show their discomfort or alternatively it used as a message to calm down other dogs or people in a situation in which the dog doing the licking evaluates as one that is too stressful.

Head Turning:  The motion of head turning could be a subtle swivel or a single swift movement; sometimes the head turning could be a prolonged side to side movement. Averting their heads is another manner in which dogs can defuse potentially explosive situations between themselves because by turning their heads away they are signaling non-threatening intentions in polite doggy speak.

Next time you are stooping over your dog look carefully to see if he or she turns their head away; if they do then they are evidently signaling to you that it makes them feel uncomfortable. If you pay special attention next time you’ll also notice that dogs rarely look directly at one another because it is considered impolite and rife with threat. When dogs are seated in group they generally avert their heads away from one another in keeping with polite dog etiquette (much like the way civilized persons make a point of not staring directly at the person opposite them in a subway car).

Eye Squinting:  Dogs narrow their eyes to express to the person or fellow canine to whom their gaze is directed that they have no ill intentions, and that there is no veiled threat implied from that gaze. Whenever a dog looks at another dog directly with no threatening intentions, the dog squints its eyes to make sure the other dog understands that no aggression is intended.

Dog Bowing:  Bowing represents a number of things in doggy language but most commonly it is an invitation to play. Dogs don’t only bow to other dogs they also bow to people and other animals. When a bowing dog also hops from foot to foot then unquestionably that is an invitation to play. Sometimes dogs also use bowing as a means  to calm or de-stress a situation.

Yawning:  A yawning dog does not reflect a tired dog; yawning happens to be yet another de-stressing signal in doggy language. This is one dog signal you can use quite effectively to calm your dog when it is anxious or agitated. These are just a few of the many unvocalized signals dog use to communicate with other dogs and us. You can easily use some of these dog signals to communicate with your furry best friend. However I wouldn’t recommend going around slobbering your tongue across your face; that may go down well in doggy world but I am not sure the same can be said in the real world!

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Listen Up Your Dog is Talking to You!

Dog breeders and owners describe this canine-canine war as dog aggression, which is technically a dog’s intent to do harm to another dog. Dog snap at other dogs is only one display of aggression, and it comes in the category of loud barking and growling at other dogs. Dogs show aggression not so much because they want to hurt another dog, but because they are defending themselves from potential harm. Such defense tactics are undertaken by dogs to gain a higher status over a potential rival, or simply because of built in instincts or traits that make them feel that they are dominant versus other dogs. Some dogs may also develop hormonal imbalance, prompting them to exercise dominance over other dogs by showing dog aggression.

Aggression is common, although some breeds such as bulls and terriers are more likely to display aggression as they age. If a dog starts off life as an abused or attacked pup, then he may be fearful of other dogs and thus exercise defense-based aggression or snap at other dogs. In particular, dogs can be aggressive toward dogs or objects that resemble anything that threatened or attacked them in the past. If your dog snap at other dogs, therefore, may simply be a sign that your dog is defending his or her territory, or is remembering something in his or her past.

If your dog continues to snap at other dogs, then you might want to take a look at the following tips to help you control your dog. If all else fails, take your dog to the vet or a canine behavior specialist for more information on how he or she can be made less aggressive or harmful.

- When dogs lack exercise, they can have a lot of pent up energy, and can actually be more emotionally and mentally unstable. Take your dog out often and make him or her exercise by jogging together, or by playing fetch in the park. This can allow your dog to use up all the energy that he or she has, giving him or her less time and resources to snap at other dogs.

- If you have a puppy, discipline him or her and start him or her on a disciplined life without abusing him or her. A well-disciplined dog is less likely to do harm, and certainly less likely to snap at other dogs.

- If you prefer a dog that is docile and quiet, then you might want to select a breed beforehand that is not prone to snap at other dogs or other forms of dog aggression. Choose toy dogs or retrievers if you have little time to undertake any disciplinary measures. If you are an experienced breeder or trainer, however, then go for terriers and bulls, but be sure to instill discipline early.

- Act as a dominant owner. If a dog senses that he or she is dominant in your house, or the seeming owner of it, then it can turn itself into the alpha dog and establish itself as the leader of your pack. It can then think that it has the license to snap at other dogs and display aggression.

- As much as possible, keep only one dog at home. The more dogs you have, the more defensive your dog will become, and the more likely he or she is to display aggressive behavior or snap at other dogs.

If you really want to stop your dog to snap at other dogs at the shortest possible time, you need a dog obedience training to help you transform you dog’s behavior problems. Did you know that you can put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s behavior problems by using techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover dog obedience training secrets to stop your dog’s behavior problems visit Dogs' Corner

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Dog?s Behavior Problem: How to Stop Your Dog to Snap at Other Dogs

• Artic Husky Dog
• Siberian Chukchi
• Chukchi Sled Dog
• Chukchi or Chuchi

The Siberian Husky developed as a purebred dog breed through its isolated existence with the native people known as the Chukchi that existed in the extreme north-eastern region of Siberia around Yakutsk located north of Stanovoi Mountains. Some legends in fact narrate how the word husky arose as a corruption in the pronunciation of the word “Chukchi” by European migrants to the region.

Some dog authorities are of the opinion that the Siberian Husky had developed as a purebred dog breed as far back as 3000 years ago through its isolated existence with the Chukchi. Unquestionably there is Northern Wolf blood in the Siberian Husky dog breed mix and for centuries from generation through generation it was customary for the Chukchi people to only breed the very best of lead dogs while neutering the rest to eliminate the reproduction of undesired traits. In this manner the Chukchi not only vastly improved the genetic lineage of the Siberian Husky dog breed but also consolidated its genetic purity as a thoroughbred dog breed.Husky Dogs

When the Siberian Husky dogs of the village were not working there were cared for by the women of the tribe which meant that the dogs had to be in close proximity with them and their children. Thus another trait which the Chukchi people bred for in their husky dogs was a sound and balanced temperament, since naturally they would not want aggressive and ill-tempered dogs hanging around their children. Ironically enough it was this pleasant nature and temperament of character that moved many people to dismiss the Siberian Husky as an insignificant sled-racing dog contender; that is until the Siberian Husky “got on the ice and started performing!”

Siberian Husky Dog Racing History

As earlier pointed out the Chukchi people of Siberia had bred the Siberian Husky dog to the pinnacle of work performance on the snow and for excellence of temperament. In essence they bred a superb sled dog perfected to carry light loads such as hunted game for extensive distances at remarkable speeds. The Chukchi’s unschooled dog breeding program was so successful that in effect they had bred the ultimate sled-pulling dog.

By the end of the 19th century news of these amazing sled dogs filtered to North America and in 1909 a team of imported Siberian Husky dogs debuted in a major sled race in Alaska. Although the Siberian Husky was dismissed by many as being far too small and docile to match competitively against their bigger and more powerful counterparts (the Alaskan Malamute and the Eskimo Dog both of which average around 100 lbs in weight as compared to the Siberian Husky dog’s relative featherweight of 60 pounds), as soon as the Husky started racing it quashed all doubt. Put simply, the Siberian Husky created quite the sensation by outperforming all the other dog breeds in the race.

One racer present was so impressed by the relatively “miniscule” Siberian Husky dogs’ performance he imported 70 of them to prepare and ready for the next race in 1910. He wasn’t disappointed. In 1910 his three dog teams comprised of Siberian Huskies dogs placed 1st, 2nd and 4th in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes Race, which covered a distance of 408 miles between the towns of Nome and Candle. The stage was set and from then onwards the Siberian Husky was recognized far and wide as the ultimate sled-racing dog.

Siberian Husky Dog:  Perfection of Form to Function

Once it made its stunning debut in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes Race, the Siberian Husky dog breed literally became an overnight sensation in sled dog-racing circles. Even so its phenomenal success baffled both spectator and racer alike. How could such a comparatively lightweight and small sled dog drastically outperform and outrace the bigger dog breeds such as the Alaskan Malamute and Eskimo dog; both of which were more powerful and boasted a longer stride.

The secret to the husky dog’s superior sled-racing skills lay in its inherent form that was beautifully adapted for speed sled pulling. At a maximum weight of sixty pounds, the Siberian Husky dog had attained the ideal pull- weight ratio for sled racing. An excess of 60 pounds in weight would result in a proportionally decreased surface area for heat loss or conversely a disproportionate increase in heat storage. Dogs are notoriously inefficient at losing heat, most especially big dogs, and such an issue would constitute a very big problem in long distance races such as those like the four-day 25 mile marathon race that sled dogs have to endure.

In short, selective centuries of breeding by the Chukchi people of particular dogs with their most desired traits for loaded-sled pulling on slippery surfaces at high speed resulted in a dog breed perfectly formed and designed for just such a pursuit. The Siberian Husky was that dog, the perfect balance of weight to optimal sled-pulling ratio at high and sustained speed.

Siberian Husky Makes Its Mark In History

In the winter of 1925 a very serious diphtheria endemic struck the city of Nome in Alaska. Being deep winter the only routes accessible at the time were dog trails that spanned across hundreds of miles of snowy plains. In an unprecedented feat of speed and endurance a number of teams of Siberian Husky dogs led by legendary Norwegian Champion Dog driver Leonhard Seppala streaked across 340 miles of unforgiving snow and harsh winter in a race against time to save the city. In what came to be known in history as the fabled “ Serum Run” Seppala and his team of Siberian Husky dogs saved the city of Nome!

Following their amazing rescue mission Leonhard Seppala and a team of huskies went on a tour across the United States forever cementing this dog breed in the hearts and minds of the American public. In Commemoration of the “Serum Run” to this day a statue of one of those heroic Siberian Husky dogs resides in New York’s Central Park. Later thanks to the significant role that the Siberian Husky dog played in military search & rescue operations in the Artic during World war II as well as Seppala’s State-wide tour people’s admiration for this dog breed was further consolidated. The Siberian Husky was officially recognized by the AKC in 1930.

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Siberian Husky Dog History

Dogs occasionally attack people and other dogs or animals. You may wonder what makes dogs behave violently. In truth, dogs are peace-loving and do not easily turn aggressive, unless provoked. Because dogs' mode of communications and concepts are different from man's and from other animals', there are some actions that maybe perceived by them as aggression or dogs’ aggression.

It is instinct of any living animal, people included, to protect itself when there is imminent danger. Remember that dogs just turn aggressive whenever they feel like they are threatened. And beware of dogs’ aggression, because dogs are truly destructive and rowdy when they get really angry.

Dogs' aggressive behavior

There are several types of aggression that influence dogs. Such dog’s aggressions are different and nature and are acquired by the dogs during different situations. To be able to learn how to properly and effectively handle dogs' aggression, it would be important if you would understand the nature of dogs' aggression.

The first type of dogs’ aggression is dominance aggression. This type is exhibited when the dog feels like he is the dominant organism in the area. This is not common to dogs, but studies suggest that this type of aggressive behavior is relative to the particular breed of dogs. Of course, fighting dogs are more likely to feel dominant.

If the dogs feel that someone, or some other animal, is threatening this sense of dominance, he would likely stage an attack. Several of your actions, like raising hands, clapping or tapping its head, could be interpreted by the dog as breaching its dominance or trigger dogs’ aggression, so beware.

The other type of dogs’ aggression is protective in nature. If the dog feels like you would attack it, it would surely retaliate in defense. The same goes for fear-motivated dogs’ aggression. If there is fear, the dog would not think and act naturally, making it become jittery and become aggressive.

There is a territorial sense in the dog, so if someone or some other animal intrudes its territories, the dog would turn aggressive. Dogs’ aggression could also be redirected. If the animal becomes mad at someone, but could not possibly attack him, the dog could redirect his aggression into someone else.

Dealing with the dogs' aggressive behavior

Now that you have a brief but concise background about the nature and possible causes of dogs’ aggression, you now understand what and how dogs could turn rowdy and dangerous. Make sure you try not to arouse feeling of threat or fear into the dog so it would not behave aggressively.

For sure, you now know some of your mannerisms and actions that could make your dog behave aggressively. Avoid doing those actions when the dog is around to prevent any possible attack or dogs’ aggression.

If you could not help the aggressive behavior, it would be better to seek professional help for dogs’ aggression so your dog could not harm anyone else. Prior to doing so, confine your dog inside a secluded place or a cage. Never let it loose free because it might suddenly attack or bite bystanders and other animals.

Do not punish the dog because doing so would only make the animal behave more aggressively. Because you are the smarter between the two of you, your dog and yourself, be more understanding and patient.

Do you want to know how to curb your dog’s aggressiveness? Put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog behavior problems and slash your dog obedience training time in half by using techniques that give you immediate results. Stop your dog’s aggression visit Dogs' Corner

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Dogs’ Aggression: How to Deal With Dogs’ Aggressive Behavior

Different dogs have different dietary needs. The breed, the age and the overall body weight are the contributing factors that influence the dog's dietary needs. Be reminded that in truth, there is no single proper dog diet that can be considered as ideal in general for every dog.

One proper dog diet program for one dog could be good and ideal for a dog, but definitely not for another. Thus, if you have two dogs, each has its own dietary need, which would be significantly different compared to the others.

Tips on choosing a proper dog diet

A proper dog diet is also a must among dogs. That is why you should always strive to feed your dog with healthy food. Take note that feeding a healthy diet to a dog is not just all about giving the animal nutritious food. There are so many things you should also consider.

Here are some suggested ways on how you could effectively feed your dog with a proper dog diet:

- Ask the veterinarian about a reputable and ideal dog food brand. Do not just jump into the bandwagon and choose a dog food that is widely patronized in the market. Your vet knows a lot about nutrition facts and proper dog diet.

- If the vet makes a shortlist of recommended dog food brands, make sure you select the one that is of high quality. Consider your dog's size, weight, activity, age and level before choosing the proper dog diet.

- Balance the dog proper diet by including dry food on his daily meals. Moist canned dog food must also be included because such food would certainly help maintain cleanliness of the dog's teeth.

-Take note of the protein ratio of the dog food you are feeding your pet. Protein is very essential to the dog's body. Ideally, protein in dog food should consist of about 20% to 30% of each dog meal. That would make up for the recommended protein intake of the dog.

- Do not overfeed your dog. Doing so on a regular basis could make your pet obese. Just like in people, obesity in dogs could also lead to several medical conditions, like musculoskeletal problems and abnormal growth.

- Feed proper dog diet just about twice each day. There are some dog breeds that need to be fed just once everyday. Make the dog's meal time regularized during specific and consistent times of the day. Make sure the feed is also in a very and exactly measured amount.

- Do not ever feed your dog with table scraps in or under the table and while you or other people are eating. This would make an impression in the dog that begging for food from people who are eating at the table is acceptable. If you must feed your dog with scraps, put the food in his dog bowl after people have finished eating at the table.

It would not be very hard feeding your dog with proper dog diet. But always make sure that there is genuine caring and love every time you feed your dog.

Did you know that a home-made proper dog diet increases dog lifespan by up to 134%? Discover the step-by-step guide that makes your dog live a longer, healthier life, so you enjoy up to 8.3 more yrs. of happiness and companionship with your dog visit Dogs' Corner

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Proper Dog Diet: How to Feed Your Dog With Healthy Diet

1. On average all dogs carry at least 4-5 defective genes.

2. Over 500 genetic diseases have been identified in dogs.   

3. Hip Dysplasia (HD) (an inherited orthopedic disease that may result in the dog becoming lame) commonly occurs in 60 dog breeds and occurs less frequently in another 110 breeds; thus this disease is seen in over 170 breeds of dog.

4. 119 dog breeds are commonly afflicted with progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), a disease that quite often leads to blindness in the affected animal.

5. Of all the dog breeds the Poodle suffers from the most number of genetic diseases...145! The reason why the Poodle is predisposed to so many genetic diseases is because not only are there 3 distinct sizes of Poodle in this breed, the large count of disease is a reflection of the popularity of this dog breed. By and large a good rule of thumb is, the more popular a dog breed the greater the number of genetic diseases inherent in that breed.

6. Several popular dog breeds are linked to over 100 genetic diseases.

7. These days dog breeders spend well over $500,000,000 annually in an effort to address this disturbing trend of genetic disease in man's best friend.

As it is all the various dog breeds that exist today were artificially created; in other words each and every dog breed was selectively bred for a particular trait, be it coat color, coat length, sniffing ability, shortness of stature (miniatures), facial appearance and so forth...the list is virtually endless. The means by which those desired traits were obtained was to selectively breed that population of dogs that most strongly exhibited the desired trait; a breeding strategy that is otherwise known as inbreeding!

Gene Pool And Population Factors

A population may be described as a breeding group that possesses gene continuity from one generation to the next. Currently a growing body of dog experts believe that the dog evolved as a new species from the wolf to occupy a developing niche about 15,000 years ago. That developing niche revolved around human waste dumps; opportunistic wolves began inhabiting those waste dumps for easily available food supplies.

All told, 15,000 years on the evolutionary scale is an extremely brief period for a new species to evolve from another, suggesting that there must have been a considerable amount of inbreeding amongst those opportunistic waste-dump-frequenting wolves to propagate the tameness trait in so short a time span! Compounding this issue of limited genetic pool, a growing number of dog researchers now believe that the original genetic ancestry of the dog evolved from only three female wolves that inhabited China several thousand years ago (the so called eves of dog evolution).

The important point to note here is that even before mankind began his intensive trait-specific breeding program of the dog, and due to its unorthodox super-accelerated evolution, the dog gene pool right from the get go was rather limited!

Development Of A Dog Breed

By its very nature the development of a new dog breed involves a considerable amount of inbreeding to magnify and evolve the desired trait(s) characteristic of that new breed. However this process results in a considerable number of undesired results. If we consider the Dalmatian, a breed of dog characterized by its distinctive pattern of spots, somewhere along the line during that process of selecting for the spotted pattern trait, Dalmatian dog breeders unknowingly and unintentionally also bred this dog for an abnormal uric acid gene!

By the time people realized that there was a very serious problem in the Dalmatian, this dog breed was homozygous for the abnormal uric acid gene! (Homozygous refers to identical pairs of genes that manifest as an observable trait as opposed to non-identical gene pairs known as heterozygous that confer no observable trait; i.e., recessives). This unwanted side effect means that Dalmatians are perhaps the only breed of dog that is predisposed to urine stones (from excessive levels of uric acid), a debilitating urinary tract condition. In an effort to rectify this problem the Dalmatian line was subsequently crossbred with various Pointer breeds to eliminate the inherent homozygotic uric acid gene whilst still maintaining the spotted pattern that defines the Dalmatian dog.

Gene Linkage

The abnormal elevated levels of uric acid in the Dalmatian associated with the spotting-pattern gene, is a classic case of gene linkage. Linkage is said to occur when genes expressing different properties are located on the same chromosome and are inherited as a unit. In fact the occurrence of gene linkage probably explains how the dog morphologically (shape wise) differentiated from the wolf so dramatically and so quickly; the gene that expressed the tameness trait was linked to genes that expressed other properties such as floppy ears, change in coat color, barking or simply put properties characteristic of today's domesticated dog.

The bottom line here is that selective breeding for a particular trait (as happens whenever a new dog breed is being developed) carries the inherent risk of magnifying the expression of unwanted defective genes that would otherwise rarely occur under natural circumstances.

Genetic Diversity

During the process of natural selection genetic diversity is maintained, but contrastingly in selective breeding the opposite holds true; genetic diversity is reduced! Recent studies have revealed that genetic variation occurs frequently in normal populations of any species and that even those genes that are deleterious and defective are preserved in the gene pool as so-called recessive genes (recessive gene traits are not visibly apparent unlike dominant genes). It is now believed that such genetic variability confers adaptive properties to a population in the event of extreme environmental change.

Thus mutative genes that confer minimal benefit today could play a significant future role in the survival of the species in which it occurs. This could explain why defective or mutative genes are preserved as recessive genes in a population's gene pool. A good example illustrating the beneficial role recessive genes can confer to a population is the case of the English Peppered moth.

Like a large number of insects the Peppered moth relies on its color to camouflage it from predators. The dominantly prevalent grayish color of the Peppered moth allows it to blend in with its environment which so happen to be tree trunks and lichen of like color. Although lighter and darker shades of the moth exist, few of such individuals survive for the simple reason their camouflaging abilities are less effective.

However with the advent of the industrial revolution in the late 19th century the resultant pollution darkened the tree trunks such that the minority recessive trait which conferred a darker shade of gray to the moths became dominant because such moths were then better able to avoid predation. As pollution levels subsequently decreased the tree trunks gradually reverted to their normal color and so also did the color of the Peppered moth revert back to its pre-industrialization gray. Thus once again the recessive dark-gray color in the moth reverted to its usual minority role!

Combating Dog Genetic Disease

Because almost every single dog possesses at least 4 defective genes (no matter whether it's a purebred or mixed breed) unless strong active measures are taken the problem of dog genetic disease can only get worse. Such strong effective measures by necessity require the participation of everyday dog owners and not just dog breeders or dog researchers!

Dog Genome Project Wants Your Dog's Blood!

The Canine Genome Sequencing Project (Dog Genome Project based at the Broad Institute of Harvard and MIT in Boston) has sequenced the dog genome in its entirety. One of their priority goals now is to identify the genes responsible for causing dog genetic diseases, defective genes, carrier states of hereditary disease and much more. Through using the powerful resource of the sequenced dog genome, the good folks at the Dog Genome Project hope to reverse the widespread prevalence of genetic disease in dogs worldwide.

However to achieve that noble goal they need your help! How?

Well the only means by which recessive genes and carrier states can be identified is at the genetic level (genotype) and not by visual observation of recognizable morphological traits (phenotype). To do this the Dog Genome Project staff need a large number of dog samples to analyze and that is where you, as a dog owner, can play a significant role by sending them a blood sample of your dog.

More about the dog

For more information about how to help alleviate dog genetic disease go to:

http://www.broad.mit.edu/mammals/dog

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The Scary Reality of Dog Genetic Disease

If you want to own a dog or already own one and you want to prevent dogs from biting anyone, there are two things you need to remember: first, you have to train your dog to be friendly; and second, you have to avoid putting him in stressful situations.

Dogs feel stressed by unfamiliar objects, people or places, or by unpredictable behavior. However, the degree of unfamiliarity and unpredictability is different from dog to dog. In a crowd, some dogs are friendly to strangers while others are not. What spells the difference between these dogs isn’t breed but how well they were raised. Thus, you can prevent dogs from biting if you properly train your dog.

How to prevent dogs from biting

Although there is no guarantee that your dog will never attack or bite anyone, these six tips will significantly reduce the risks of your dog attacking or biting someone:

1. Familiarity with people and environment will help you to prevent dogs from biting. Create positive and pleasant encounters for your dog with objects, people and places within the first 8 to 16 weeks of his life, especially with those he would likely encounter during his lifetime. To prevent dogs from biting introduce them immediately to various kinds of objects in your house and outside your house (e.g. your vacuum cleaner), to various kinds of people (e.g. the postman), and to various kinds of environments (e.g. your car). Introduce him also to grooming, to the vet, and to other animals, especially other dogs. Some dogs don’t think they’re dogs. You don’t want your dog to have an identity crisis, do you?

2. Familiarize dogs to being touched to prevent dogs from biting as early as possible but supervise dogs when they are with young children as much as possible. It is better your dog realizes early on that you and others mean no harm when you hold him since you can’t avoid touching him or him being touched by other people, especially when he has to be groomed or to be brought to the vet. However, how he is held is important to him. If he is held improperly, as most young children would hold him, he becomes terrified of being touched.

3. Another tip to prevent dogs from biting is to create a home for dogs where they can find peace, safety and security and teach others to respect it. Your dog would encounter at least several stressful situations in his lifetime and that’s all but normal in a dog’s life. However, if dogs has a haven to go home to, it will prevent dogs from biting, as they would more likely dash to their dog house rather than attack.

4. Tie your dog when walking him in public but not more than 8 hours in one place. Dogs tend to get temperamental and aggressive when tied since they experience barrier frustration. They are more likely to attack and bite when approached since it seems to them their territory is being intruded and, because they cannot flee, they fight the intruder. However, when walking your dog, he is better on than off a leash. Supervised dogs are less likely to attack and bite, and also you can keep a better eye on them with a leash and can prevent dogs from biting if they encounter a stressful situation.

5. Another way to prevent dogs from biting is to teach dogs with proper and productive behavior. Though it is highly recommended to enroll your dog, including your family, in a home obedience class, it is just as advisable to consistently reinforce correct and appropriate behavior. Your dog can’t tell the difference between rough-play and real-life situations so don’t show or teach him aggressive behavior, like chasing after or attacking others even for fun. If he exhibits aggressive behavior towards other people or animals, like growling when someone comes too close to his food bowl, seek professional help. It is important to stop dogs biting and aggressive behavior as early as possible.

It’s not all that difficult to prevent dogs from biting and raise them to be friendly, especially if you see dogs as another being that deserves love and attention as much as anyone else does, as much as you do. Most often than not, dogs that attack and bite are neglected dogs. So always remember that behind a good dog is a good pet owner.

If you really want to prevent dogs from biting anyone, you need a dog obedience training to help you transform you dog’s behavior problems at the shortest possible time. Did you know that you can put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s behavior problems by using techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover dog obedience training secrets to stop your dog’s behavior problems visit Dogs' Corner

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Prevent Dogs From Biting: Make Your Dog All Bark But No Bite

In California, the short explanation is that for the most part, a dog owner is liable for the bad actions of his or her dog. For a dog owner to be liable for the damages suffered by a person bitten by the owner's dog, there is no requirement that the owner had knowledge of the dangerous propensities of his or her dog, or any requirement of knowledge of any previous bite by the dog.

Under California Civil Code Section 3342, the owner of the dog who bites another person, is liable regardless of the former viciousness of the dog or the owner's knowledge of such viciousness. Under this statute, the owner is said to be strictly liable or subject to strict liability.

As strange as it may seem, while California Civil Code Section 3342 in effect repudiates the common law requirement of scienter, or knowledge of viciousness, California maintains the common law cause of action based on scienter or knowledge of a domestic animal's dangerousness. Under this common law cause of action used by attorneys for a dog bite in California, liability is based on the owner's knowledge of the dog's prior behavior rather than on the owner's negligence. The usefulness of this cause of action is to establish liability on someone other than the dog's owner for a dog bite in California.

If you or another family member have been bitten or attacked by a dog and suffered injuries anywhere in Southern California visit our website at http://www.sebastiangibsonlaw.com and call us at any of the numbers easily found on our website.

Dog Bite Negligence and Negligence Per Se

Yet a further way for a dog bite lawyer to establish liability for a California dog bite, is based on the negligence of the person who causes or allows the dog bite or attack to occur. Negligence can be the result of mishandling, allowing a dog to roam the streets unleashed, or improper tying or chaining (note that it is also a misdemeanor under California Penal Code Section 597t to tie an animal in such a manner that will cause the animal to become entangled or injured or which prevents the animal from access to adequate shelter, food and water).

Dog Vaccinations

A dog owner whose dog has not been vaccinated by the age of four months and whose dog bites someone who then must submit to rabies treatment can also be sued by a dog bite attorney in California for violation of the applicable Health and Safety Code Section 1920 and for the cost of and pain and suffering resulting from this treatment.

Dog Propensities For Dog Bites and Causing Injury

Our law firm has even successfully pursued a claim for significant damages when a non-owner allowed a dog with a propensity to jump on others, knocked down a person and caused serious injury to that person.

Dog Bite and Dog Attack Defenses

There are defenses to dog bite and dog attack liability in California, the most common of which involve the provocation of a dog, the comparative negligence of the dog bite victim and assumption of risk by the victim. Persons who handle dogs as part of their occupation, such as veterinarians, dog groomers and dog handlers are deemed to assume the risk of being bitten while the dog that bites them is in their custody. On the other hand, a dog owner who fails to warn such a person or who misleads such a person about the vicious propensities of the animal may not be similarly protected by this defense.

Dog Bites to Children

A special rule involving minors can negate the defenses allowed to a dog owner such as provocation, comparative negligence or assumption of risk. Minors under the age of five are deemed, as a matter of law, to be incapable of negligent acts. They are therefore incapable either of performing a negligent act toward a dog, or of acting with reasonable care toward a dog.

Visit our website at http://www.sebastiangibsonlaw.com and call us if you have suffered a dog bite or been attacked by a dog or any other animal owned by another and been seriously injured anywhere in Southern California.

Dog Bite Defenses

Neither "my dog ate my homework" nor "my dog bit my lawyer" are valid defenses to getting out of school work in California, although children will try to use these excuses without success every year.

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California Dog Bite Lawyer Looks At California Dog Bite Laws To Determine What Kind Of Trouble A Dog Is In When It Bites Someone

The precise origins of the Anatolian Shepherd dog are not properly known but it is believed that this large dog breed is descended from a cross mix of Roman mollosian war dogs, mastiffs and the indigent flock guardians that were native to Turkey. Since as far back as 7000 B.C. man has owned domestic animals thus flock guardians are some of the oldest of all dog breeds.

Anatolian Shepherd Dog Temperament

Like most flock guardian dog breeds the Anatolian Shepherd is a large and independent minded dog. In other words the Anatolian Shepherd is not the type of dog that will eagerly participate in frivolous pursuits such as playing fetch and indulging the whims of its human companions. If you try to engage the Anatolian Shepherd in such activities the dog is more likely than not to give you a look that says "you’re plain crazy" before relocating itself elsewhere.

Over the span of many thousand of years this dog has been selectively bred to accomplish one task and that is to protect livestock from all manner of predators be they large or small. For sure, the setting in which the Anatolian Shepherd Dog finds itself in the modern world may have changed and the flock it watches over today may be two-legged as opposed to four but the hardwiring innate to the dog remains the same!

The Anatolian Shepherd takes its duty as a protector and guardian very seriously no matter the nature of ward it is entrusted to look after. In fact it is not unusual for nursing female Anatolian Shepherd Dogs to suckle the lambs that they are entrusted to protect; that is the measure of how passionately these dogs bonds. So it should come as little surprise that these dogs get along well with children although the child may find it lacking as play mate since it is just not in the Anatolian’s nature to indulge in frivolous pursuits. This innate good nature of the Anatolian Shepherd is probably as a result of Turkish Shepherds dispassionately dispatching of any dog that showed untoward aggression towards either livestock or people.

However as with all dogs any interaction with children, especially small children, should be carefully monitored. Also be aware that though the Anatolian Shepherd dog may be very compliant and trustworthy around kids within the family the same may not apply for friends because as far as the dog is concerned they are not part of its flock. Keeping this distinction in mind is very important especially since the dog may not be able to differentiate between rough kid play and a real threat!

The Anatolian Shepherd is not recommended for the first time dog owner or for apartment life.

Form And Function Of The Anatolian Shepherd Dog

The Anatolian Shepherd falls within the category of the working group of dogs and as such is a dog of exceptional endurance and ability required of tough and rugged work. If the Anatolian Shepherd Dog were a vehicle it would be a serious off-roader SUV designed to tackle the toughest of terrain (think back to the old square-shaped Landrovers or today’s or yesterday’s Landcruiser) and not some pretentious wannabe SUV that is all athletic looks but no muscle! In other words any potential owner of the Anatolian Shepherd should make no mistake and understand this dog comes from hardcore working stock and is not just a delightful oversized pet like the Great Dane.

The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is an independent thinker that was often expected to use its own powers of insight and initiative to guide and keep the flock of sheep safe. In fact it was not uncommon for the Anatolian Shepherd dogs to be left alone days on end tending to the livestock without any contact from the shepherd who’d return to the comfort of the village and only check in on the animals from time to time. During such sabbaticals the dogs would often take turns to watch the flock while others hunted for game. Such was this dog breeds loyalty that even when extremely hungry the dogs never attacked their wards.

Considering that wolves and stray dogs constituted a good portion of the predators that the Anatolian Shepherd had to keep at bay unsurprisingly the Anatolian Shepherd is not dog friendly. Thus it is extremely important that this large dog be timely and optimally socialized with other dogs and animals if "terminal accidents" are not to happen in the urban setting. Accidents that could result in a hefty fine for the dog’s owner and possibly resulting with the shepherd dog being put down.

The Anatolian Shepherd is most certainly a large dog breed but not in the sense of barrel-chested massive. The body form of the Anatolian Shepherd is athletic in type befitting a dog that has to be fast and versatile on its feet. In Turkey to this very day the best flock guardian dogs are expected to be excellent wrestlers and quite often competitive matches are held each year. In fact it is said that a capable dog can leap in the air at a full run and turn round and land on top of its target. In essence the body structure of the Anatolian Shepherd promotes power and grace in one perfectly designed package.

Anatolian Shepherd Dog Breed Controversy

In Turkey the Anatolian Shepherd finds itself in the unique but somewhat unenviable position of being a Turkish dog breed that happens not to be recognized in its very own country. In fact if you were to quiz the average Turkish person about their national dog the Anatolian Shepherd they probably respond with a "huh" and a blank stare! To this very day what began as an innocuous skirmish over a name has now escalated into a full scale war of words characterized by salvos of accusations ricocheting across west to east and vice-versa.

In all likelihood this ongoing exchange arose from the misinterpretation of the meaning of the phrase Coban Kopegi by western fanciers of the dog breed. Coban Kopegi is a Turkish word that in English translates as "shepherd’s dog." Western admirers of the Turkish livestock guardians probably corrupted this term to mean "shepherd dog," hence the name Anatolian Shepherd dog. However the misinterpretation of the phrase Coban Kopegi probably in and of itself wasn’t enough to have escalated this verbal onslaught to the point it eventually attained, what truly got the Turkish people’s ire was what to all intents and purposes looked like another country(s) usurping a good potion its canine heritage. However when is all said and done all sides love the Anatolian Shepherd dog so perhaps the best approach is to celebrate the dog, bury the hatchet and agree to disagree!

Anatolian Shepherd Dog Characteristics

HEIGHT:

Male: 29 inches and upwards

Female: 27 inches and upwards

WEIGHT:

Male: 110 – 150 lbs

Female: 80 – 120 lbs

COLOR: All colors are allowed although nowadays the fawn with black mask is the most prevalent.

HEALTH & LIFESPAN

Major Health Issues: CHD

Minor Health Issues: Entropion

Recommended Tests: Hip & Eye

Lifespan: 10 – 13 years

Other Health Issues: The Anatolian Shepherd Dog is extremely sensitive to barbiturate anesthesia and you should pass this information on to your vet if ever your dog requires surgery.

Learn more about the dog

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Anatolian Shepherd Dog

Despite their athletic nature, hunting dogs can be overweight dogs and can fall into a sedentary nature if not provided with enough exercise. Without an exercise program, these otherwise fit, energetic breeds can become lazy and inactive.

An estimated 40% of dogs are considered to be overweight or obese. The most common cause of overweight dogs is obvious, their caloric intake is greater than what is burned off in a day. Excess calories turn into fat, and over time this causes the dog to gain weight.

Hunting dogs fed a high calorie, protein dense food for athletic dogs are at particular risk for canine obesity, as their exercise level must be kept high in order to use up the calories that they are being fed. A dog being fed a high performance diet must adhere to strict exercise regimen, in order to prevent excessive weight gain. Fat dogs out hunting is not a pretty sight!

Veterinarians use a standardized Body Condition Score system to categorize overweight dogs. The scoring system runs from 1-9, with one being extremely thin, and 9 being morbidly obese.

As a general rule, the An ideal range for the body condition score for dogs is between a 4 and 5.

At a Body Condition Score (BCS) of 4 and 5, the dog should have ribs that can be easily felt under the skin, but not seen. The dogs should have a waist (a narrowing of their width behind the ribcage), as well as an abdomen that is tucked when seen from the side.

Dogs with a BCS of 6 and 7 are too heavy. Their ribs may be just barely felt under the skin.

Instead of a waist, they are flat from ribs to hindquarters. Overweight dogs in this category should have their exercise level increased, and caloric intake decreased. With a BCS of 8 or 9 they are considered morbidly obese or are commonly called fat dogs.

Their ribs cannot be felt over the skin, and have areas of fat deposits over their back, base of the tail, chest, neck or legs. Instead of a waist, they have an abdominal bulge and are wider in the abdomen than in the hips.

Their abdomens may appear distended and enlarged, and hang below the level of the ribcage. These dogs should be evaluated by a veterinarian for underlying health problems, as well as begin a weight reduction program under veterinary supervision.

Beware of Diabetes in dogs and other health ailments

Overweight dogs at this level are at risk for a variety of health problems: severe joint, muscle and ligament problems, as well as respiratory and cardiac complications. Diabetes in dogs is also a threat.

It is important to remember that just because your dog was bred for an athletic lifestyle, his energy level and fitness depend on you.

Keep your dog fit, healthy and not overweight. Dogs can then be assured good health and hopefully a long life.

Now for underweight dogs

Hunting dogs are athletes. But, sometimes you can have an underweight dog. Their excellent work ethic and eager-to-please spirit make them the ideal partner for a variety of athletic endeavors.

Like human athletes, the nutritional requirements for active dogs must be adjusted to meet their unique needs.

Due to their high activity levels and the strain placed on their body during hunts and trails, performance and hunting dogs require a superior level of nutrients and calories than the average house dog.

It is not uncommon for hunting dogs to be on the thin side, and often a healthy, athletic hunter, may seem like an underweight dog compared to the same dog kept as just a pet.

However, it is important to access your dog's nutritional requirements, and balance them with the proper diet to ensure optimum health and best performance.

Veterinarians use a standardized Body Condition Score (BCS) system to evaluate the condition of a dogs overall health and ideal weight. The BCS scale is from 1-9, with 1 being malnourished and 9 being morbidly obese.

As a general rule, the "ideal" range for the body condition score for dogs is between a 4 and 5.

At this level, the dog should have ribs that can be easily felt under the skin, but not seen.

The dogs should have a waist (a narrowing of their width behind the ribcage), as well as an abdomen that is "tucked up" when seen from the side.

In highly active, performance dogs, a BCS of 3 may be considered a healthy weight. These dogs have a high percentage of lean body mass, with ribs that can be slightly seen under the skin, and obviously felt. The very tips of their spine or pelvis bones may be discernible, and they have a waist.

Dogs with a body condition score of a 1 to 2 are underweight, and their diets and or performance demands must be adjusted. In these dogs, their ribs, hip, pelvic and backbones can all be clearly seen, and a loss of muscle mass is evident.

Dogs with a body condition score of 3 or less should be evaluated for possible diet changes, to provide more balanced, high-calorie nutrition for the dog. In dogs that are well fed, but score persistently low on the BCS system, a veterinarian should be consulted to check for possible underlying medical problems, such as internal parasites that may be preventing the pet from absorbing the nutrients from his food.

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Overweight or Underweight Dogs

· Dog Aggression: this can be seen in many different breeds and it is actually aggression that a dog shows to other dogs. · Fear Aggression: Many people may not see fear as an aggressive behavior but if a dog begins to bite, bark, growl or bare his teeth when he is frightened than it has moved from simple fear to fear aggression.

· Dominate Aggression: This is a very serious type of aggression since the dog has many traits that you would see in a “bully.” One of the biggest problems with dominate aggression is that it is not always seen as aggression, just an alpha personality doing what it does best, until the dog attacks someone or something. Another problem is that dominate aggression is very unpredictable.

· Possessive Aggression: To get a clear idea of this, watch your dog while he is eating and is interrupted by someone. If he is fine and continues to eat or even allows you to put your hand in the dish then there is no real aggression there; however, if he growls or bites then you know that he is being possessive about things he preserves as his. While this may seem appropriate, a dog should never be possessive.

· Pain Aggression: This is aggression that is shown when a dog is in pain. · Maternal Aggression: Seen only in female dogs, this is an aggression that is seen when a female is raising a litter of puppies.

· Territorial Aggression: There are several breeds of dogs that are prone to territorial aggression where they see an area such as the house, the yard, the neighborhood or all of the above as his. When other animals or people enter his territory, he reacts in an aggressive manner.

As you can see, there are a large number of aggressions and many dogs will experience one or the other at certain times in their life. While some forms of aggression are very serious and require aggressive dog training, some of them aren’t and really only require some patience by the owner to overcome. In the case of pain aggression, it is important to find out why your dog is being aggressive. If he is hurt, take him to the vet to have the problem looked after. When the dog heals, the aggression should go away on its own but if it doesn’t, you can move into training methods for it.

In addition, maternal aggression can be avoided simply by spaying your dog but if she does whelp a litter, the maternal aggression should diminish as the puppies are weaned and placed in new homes. In many cases, the easiest way to use aggressive dog training is to socialize your puppy and dog correctly. Many people see socialization as a process that is done when their puppy is young but socialization should be done throughout your dog’s life. Exposing him to other dogs, people, places and stimulations will help curb many different areas of aggression such as dog aggression. Remember that when you do socialize your dog, especially if he has some aggression problems, that you do so in a controlled manner.

Make sure all the dogs are on leashes and introduce him to one dog at a time. Never allow your dog to be surrounded by a group of dogs since this can frighten him and trigger his aggressive response. If at any time your dog starts to indicate aggression, simply correct him by removing him a few feet away from the other dog and then praising him when he calms down. Another way to make aggressive dog training easy is to place firm rules in your house from the moment your dog arrives home. This means that he is not allowed on the furniture and that he understands that the home is yours. To battle dominance aggression, it is important to put yourself and everyone else in the role of dominate. Your dog should never eat before the family and he should never be allowed to find food for himself.

When he does eat, take the time to place your hands in the dog’s food dish and feed him by hand. This teaches him that anyone is allowed in his dish and it will help curb some possessive aggression. Make sure that everyone in the house does this as well and never let the dog go around your hand to eat directly from the bowl. In many cases, aggressive dog training needs to start with owners. To make it easy, you need to look at how you are training your dog, how he is being socialized and what negative behaviors are being reinforced. For instance, if you nurture fright responses such as growling by coddling the dog whenever he is scared, then he will quickly learn that growling is the proper response to being scared, which may develop into fear aggression.

Ignore some behaviors and correct others with a firm “no,” which is an important command with aggressive dog training. When you are using aggressive dog training, it is important that you do not correct your dog in a harsh manner. Although it may not seem like you are being abusive to your dog, a small slap can cause a large amount of damage and if a dog is already aggressive, it will just reinforce the aggressive behavior. After you have corrected how you train your dog, it is time to start aggressive dog training and it is very easy; simply break out the basics of training. Many times, basic training on a regular basis can really help with many forms of aggression and many different types of negative behaviors.

To battle territorial aggression, start by inviting people over to your home and correcting your dog when he begins barking with a loud noise to interrupt the behavior and then a firm “no.” When your dog stops barking, praise him and treat. Increase the frequency that different guests visit as your dog becomes accustomed to people being in his space. If your dog is aggressive during walks, it is time to take aggressive dog training out on a walk. Start by taking different routes every time you take a walk. Since the route is different, your dog is less likely to imprint a route as being his.

When he meets people or other animals on the street, correct his negative behavior with a firm “no” and praise him when he doesn’t react. As the aggressive dog training is advanced, gradually begin taking him to higher traffic areas until he can walk in a busy place without reacting in an aggressive manner. Although aggressive dog training is fairly easy, it does take some time and it is very important to watch your dog’s stress levels and to take your time with training. Remember, your dog didn’t become aggressive over night and you can’t expect the aggressive dog training to work overnight either, so take your time and enjoy every success your dog has.

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Aggressive Dog Training Made Easy

Dogs are like humans who need someplace to relax and just laze around. And just like humans dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to their sleeping habits. You can expect a wide variety of dog bed types to match not only your dog's sleeping preferences but also your home decor.

Dog sleeping preferences

Before you even take a look at designer dog beds make sure you know what kind of a sleeper your dog is. Is your dog a burrower, a curler, a sprawler or a leaner? The type bed you choose should match the sleeping position your dog prefers to maximize the dog bed use.

There are different types of dog beds from the simple dog pillows, nesting dog beds, orthopedic dog beds, luxury dog beds, outdoor dog beds and waterproof dog beds. Each of these beds offer a different kind of comfort for pet dogs so you only have to decide based on your budget, how it matches your home decor, the durability of the bed and the specific purpose for which it is needed and that's not just for sleeping.

One of the most preferred beds by dog owners are designer dog beds. These specialty beds give your dog a chance to sleep in a bed that looks just like the bed of his human. These dog beds are actually replicas of human furniture but are specifically designed and built for dogs. A dog that prefers to curl while sleeping but is also fond of stretching will have a grand time in his own specialty luxury bed or sofa. You can even match the dog's bed with that of your home decor.

Will the bed fit your dog?

Once you have determined your dog's sleeping preferences you now have to measure your dog from the tip of the head to the tail. Always make some allowances when measuring your dog to ensure his comfort when using the bed.

Choose a dog bed that will fit your dog's breed size. There are small dogs like the Chihuahua which is the smallest in the category and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier which is by far larger and heavier. Your dog breed is also important in determining which type of dog bed you are going to get.

While this type of bed can be ordered to match your home decor make sure you do not lose sight of the real reason why you are buying a dog bed. You may commit the mistake of buying a dog bed which will fit your space and will look fabulous in your home but the main consideration really is the comfort that it will provide for your dog.

Getting a designer bed for your dog can be fabulous but if it fails to provide comfort for your dog because he is not comfortable with it or for any reason at all then you would just be wasting precious money. Avoid this by making sure your designer dog beds do not only look great but it also fits your dog's needs.

Mammoth Dog Beds manufacture designer dog beds for larger breeds that come highly recommended. Made like furniture, the pillow supports up to 250lbs and lasts a lifetime. When shopping for a dog bed, make sure you Google them.

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Designer Dog Beds Buying Tips

To understand how these bites occur, what causes them and how to prevent them, a little education in the nature of dogs and the nature of small children will help shed some light on these aggressive behaviours.

A dog's temperament is first inherited (this is deeply ingrained responses to the world surrounding them and is unchangeable), and then modified by events and/or proper training in his life.

Genetics: Some breeds and certain bloodlines within breeds are friendlier, more suited to living in a family environment, more tolerant with children and more adaptable to training. Most of their actions are instinctive. By default, a dog will react to situations according to what his instincts tell him unless these instincts are overridden by the consistent training and socialization he needs to receive from his owner throughout his life.

Some unscrupulous breeders who sometimes intentionally breed dogs without adequate knowledge of dog behaviour may use unsuitable dogs (i.e. those with poor temperaments) for breeding. These are dogs that are mentally unpredictable or have illness or physical defects that affect their behaviour.

A dog's basic temperament, instincts and training have the biggest effects on how that dog reacts to the world around him and his levels of tolerance. Therefore, a responsible breeder should always put emphasis on good temperament when selecting breeding stock.

Past events & experiences with children: If your dog has had several painful or frightening encounters in the past with children, then he is probably going to be apprehensive around children, sometimes to the point of being aggressive. On the other hand, a well-socialised dog from an early age takes stressful and unusual situations in his own stride. Such dogs tend to be much less fearful of a busy family environment with noisy and unpredictable children around.

Here is one of the most commonly reported scenarios in a bite case:

A very young child sees a pretty dog he'd like to pet. The dog may not want to be petted. The dog's first instinctive reaction is to show his displeasure by giving a warning -- growling. The growl means that something more unpleasant will follow if the warning isn't heeded.

Almost any dog will bite under the right circumstances.

A dog is an animal whose behaviour isn't the same as humans and can't always be predicted with 100 percent accuracy, no matter how friendly or reliable he is.

The type and number of warnings that a dog gives out can vary, few dogs actually will strike without giving some form of indication beforehand. When faced with a child in this situation, normally many dogs would just walk away. Walking away can be considered a form of warning.

If the child keeps trying to pet the dog, a sterner warning, usually a growl, will ensue. Other types of warnings can be more subtle - for instance, a stiffening of the body and showing of its teeth. Small children may not recognise this as a form of warning or understand what a growl means even though it may be quite obvious to an adult.

Dogs instinctively set up an invisible "fight or flight" boundary around themselves as their safety zone. The size of this boundary depends on his level of confidence and tolerance. A fearful dog will give itself a wider area than a more stable one.

When someone whom the dog perceives as threatening invades his area, the dog reacts either by running away or staying put to fight and defend itself no matter how afraid it might be. Some dogs will choose to fight first, rather than run.

A small child who keeps petting or hugging a dog has already intruded well within the dog's flight or fight boundary. If the dog's attempts to warn the child fail, the dog (in his mind) has no other recourse -- he bites. This is a perfectly acceptable and instinctive behaviour to the dog. He is responding to what he perceives as a threat and is doing what his instincts tell him to.

Dogs do not think in the same way as humans do. A child's innocent action, petting the dog, can often be provocation for a bite.

Don't forget dogs have predatory instincts. Running, playing, screaming kids can trigger an instinctive predator-prey reaction in some dogs. Children who wrestle with dogs unknowingly encourage them to use their teeth and provoke a bite. Dogs equate this kind of play with littermates or other dogs where using teeth is allowed. Startling a sleeping dog or petting him when he's eating can also bring about the same dangerous reaction from the dog.

Guidelines for families who already have a dog or are thinking of getting a dog for the children and what can be done to prevent dogs from attacking children:
* Take your time when looking for a dog. Research, do your homework, learn the differences in the various breeds and choose one that best suits your lifestyle and experience.

* Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and work you're willing to invest in a dog. If you don't have time to raise and train the dog properly, don't get one.

* Consider postponing the purchase of a dog, especially a large one, until your children are at least 6 years old.

* Never leave any child under the age of 12 unattended with any dog or puppy. So keep supervision a strict rule in your household.

* Babies and toddlers should always be kept higher than the dog and keep your young children off the floor when there is a dog in the same room. This is to make sure that the dog (that sees the world in hierarchy) sees your children as a leader and not a littermate which it will boss around, push over, growl at and even bite.

* Educate and involve your children in your dog's care even if they are small tasks - for example you child can instruct the dog to sit before you put the food bowl down, help brush and groom the dog with you holding the collar, attach 2 leashes to your dog so that you child can hold onto one too. This level of involvement from an early stage will help the dog build a positive association with your children.

* Avoid giving your dog items that it can get possessive over with children around such as pig's ears, smoked bones, rawhide etc. It is very important to rain your dog to allow things to be taken away from his mouth by trading higher value treats for the item first.

* Obedience training and socialization are an absolute must for a dog that will be spending time with children. Remember that a dog will act according to his instincts if he doesn't receive proper training or if that training isn't kept up through regular practice. The dog needs to be taught to obey commands under all conditions no matter how distracting. Just as responding to the command to "come" could save the dog's life someday, an immediate response to the command "leave it!" could save a child from serious injury.

* Children need to be taught how to be respectful to dogs. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog's body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. Avoid wrestling, spanking, kicking, ear pulling, pony-riding, tug of war, fur grabbing, toy hitting, rough play and chasing.

* Telling the toddler to stay away from the dog just isn't enough! Your children may be too young to understand, so it will be up to you to physically supervise them and protect them from potential harm. Remember that young children do not recognise when they may be in trouble. Adult supervision around children and dogs is absolutely critical. Small children should never, ever be left alone with any dog, no matter how reliable the dog has been before.

* Buy your dog from a reputable, responsible breeder who puts priority on good temperament and health and consistently produces dogs that excel in those areas. Choose a breeder who's experienced and willing to guide and advise you about care and training throughout the dog's life.

* Teach your children how to behave correctly and safely around dogs and to respect them. In order to promote a healthy relationship between your dog and your children, educate your children about the way they should treat a dog - for example dogs should be petted softly, stay away from food dishes, toys and bones and not to startle the dog especially when it's sleeping.

* Remember that what your dog tolerates from your own children may not be tolerated from someone else's. You need to take extra safety precautions when other children visit and make sure that the children obey your ground rules.

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Kids & Dogs – A Common Sense Approach

Your dog's health and wellbeing is important to you and your family. Not to mention keeping down the cost of veterinarian bills! So you need to carefully consider the food that you give your dog. People sometimes just pick the first dog food bag they see at the store. It's easy to overlook the importance of dog food but it is essential to pick the right one for your dog.

To keep your dog healthy he needs plenty of fresh water and should be fed good quality dog food in amounts just right to meet his energy requirements. Always follow the guidelines on the dog food package for recommended feeding amounts.

Picking a dog food

The first challenge in choosing a dog food is picking one that has overall quality. The term that comes up a lot about dog food is human grade. Human grade implies that the dog food is good enough for us to eat. Many commercial dog foods are made from materials unusable or less desirable for human consumption. Often the meat that is used in dog food is of a quality considered unfit for humans to eat.

Major dog food companies try to provide balanced proportions of vitamins and minerals for maximum benefit to your dog. Although you may see that many brands of dog food have almost identical labels, a reputable dog food company will provide an explanation for each supplement and how it benefits your dog.

Always read the label to see what proteins, vitamins and minerals are being provided to your dog. Try not to use store brand dog food they may short change your dog on much needed nutrition.

Studies have shown that the primary ingredient in dog food should be meat-based protein, not corn meal, flour or corn gluten meal. According to reviews a better quality dog food results in a healthier coat, fewer digestive problems and firmer stools. Pet-nutrition experts agree that the best dog food is made from human-grade ingredients like meat, whole grains and vegetables. Premium dog food is so important because good nutrition is essential for a long, healthy life.

Types of dog food

There are many varieties of dog food to choose from. The three most popular types of dog foods are dry, semi-moist and canned products. Check the color of your dog food. Usually dog food made from natural ingredients will have soft earth tones and contain no preservatives, artificial colors and flavors.

Raw dog food is becoming more popular. More and more veterinarians recommend feeding your dog with raw dog food. They feel that this is the best choice and is the healthiest food for your dog. After all, you've never seen your dog enjoy commercial dog food the way he enjoys a good meaty bone.

Raw food advocates concede the diet costs more than traditional dog food, but they argue it's worth it. You may find that locating free natural home made dog food recipes is not easy. Try making a mixture of ground turkey, rice and carrot as your own dog food. Your dog will thank you for it.

If you decide to go the commercial route, try and choose a good premium dog food since it contains more energy and protein than an economy brand. Unfortunately not all dog food brands contain high quality and natural ingredients, so always check the label. It is best if you seek advice from your veterinarian before deciding on which dog food to feed your dog or puppy. He will know your dog's dietary needs and you will find that veterinary offices and feed stores often carry excellent and natural dog food.

All Natural Dog Food

Many natural dog foods contain only fresh, natural and wholesome ingredients for your dog. Not only are the protein ingredients digestible, but the carbohydrates in the dog food are digestible. Natural dog food has 100% nutritional value which is important for healthy strong dogs. Chicken, egg and fish are examples of protein that is provided in natural dog food. There are also ingredients in natural dog food that really help the health of your dog's skin and also your dog's coat. One of the main draw backs of natural dog food is that it has a shorter shelf life and may spoil before it is used.

Dried Dog Food

A good high quality dry dog food will work out to be more economical than the generic brands even though they cost more per pound. A vast majority of dog owners go for dry dog food for its convenience and ease of storage. The cheaper dry dog foods are made from soybean, corn or rice, while many premium dry dog foods are made with all-natural, human-grade ingredients.

Vegetarian dog foods

There are dog foods specially formulated for dogs that are allergic to wheat, corn, and/or chicken. There are also vegetarian dog foods marketed to owners who do not want their dogs to consume meat products. Most vegetarian dog foods use soy as a protein source. If your dog has allergies consult your vet before putting him on a specialized diet.

Conclusion

Overall it's usually best to let dogs enjoy dog food and not our food, even though they may prefer what we're eating! Of course you can feed your dog treats from time to time, every dog needs some TLC from time to time!

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All Dog Foods Are Not The Same

When I have my dogs in public the first rule I live by is ‘assume the worst’. What I mean by this is that I assume that most other dogs out there are ill-behaved and not dog friendly. I know this sounds extreme and perhaps rude but honestly, am I that far off? If you assume this position you will be correct a majority of the time. Most dogs in public are poorly trained and poorly socialized and shouldn’t be counted on to automatically get along with your dog.

So how do you go about introducing two dogs with such assumptions? The short answer is, I don’t. When I am in public, generally speaking, I keep my dogs separate from other dogs I encounter. Do I know if the approaching dog is current with his shots, do I know if the other dog is dog aggressive? The answer is no. Why would I introduce my dog into such an unknown situation where he could get injured from a fight or sick from an illness?

The next assumption I typically make is ‘assume the other dog owner knows nothing about dogs’. When I approach another dog owner on the street or in a park I often find that they are eager to have their dog meet both my dog and me. I often hear comforting words such as, “Oh, he’s fine with other dogs,” or, “It’s ok, he’s friendly.” Well the truth is that maybe their dog has been friendly with a few dogs but who is to say that their dog will be friendly with my dog? I was once walking with a client and their dog down a path in the woods when along came a beautiful Airedale Terrier. As we approached the owner of the terrier called out, “He’s friendly!” following which the dog immediately proceeded to lunge at the leash while barking quite aggressively, obviously looking for a fight. Both I and my client’s dog barely missed being bit as the other owner was nearly pulled over. Ever since this experience, and many similar ones, I have realized that I can’t trust the judgment of other dog owners.

As a result of this style of thinking I religiously avoid dog parks. They are the bane of the dog world and should be avoided at all costs. They are a recipe for disease and fighting. You would be wise to avoid these settings.

Am I being too much of an extremist? No, I don’t think so. In doing this I am almost guaranteeing a safe outing everywhere I go. You may be asking, “But what about socialization? Shouldn’t my dog learn to get along with other dogs?” The answer is yes, but only under controlled settings.

I am very careful about the children that my young daughter meets. I try to avoid having her meet kids who are bullies or sick. Why wouldn’t I do the same for my dog? Whenever I allow my dogs to meet new dogs I do so only when the situation is controlled.

So what is a controlled situation? It could be a variety of settings, but typically a controlled situation is one where I am familiar with the other dog owner, familiar with the other dog and feel that said owner can control said dog. A controlled situation finds both dogs on leash and under control. When introducing two dogs I am always confident that I can control my dog so I need to make sure I partner up with someone else who can also control their dog. With all of these ducks in a row I am ready to introduce my dog to the other dog.

As I said, both dogs are on leash so the first step is allowing the other dogs to be near each other to see initial reactions. I will have my dog about 10 feet from the other dog. If either of the two begins to show aggression I know that maybe this is not a potential friendship. If they are okay at this distance I proceed. One dog remains stationary, preferably in the ‘sit’ command, while the other dog is walked by at a distance of 5-6 feet. The moving dog is then asked to sit while the other walks 5-6 away. Everybody still okay? Good, let’s keep going. Now I put my dog in the heel position on my left hand side while the other owner puts her dog on her left hand side. From here we walk past each other head on. By walking head on with our dogs on our left hand sides and under control the dogs are still separated by our bodies and still haven’t come in contact with each other. At this point, however, each dog has seen the other from a variety of angles and from a variety of potentially threatening and non-threatening positions. If they are still okay you can keep going. Obviously if they have shown aggression at any point you should stop the session.

The next step is the actual introduction. Each owner should approach the other, each dog should be preferably in the heel position. At about 3-4 feet from each other the owners should have their dogs sit by their sides. If everyone is still all right the owners should release the dogs from the sit position and slowly allow the dogs to start sniffing. After a few seconds each owner leads his or her dog away from each other and walks in the opposite direction. Do a U-turn and return to each others proximity. Come back to a halt again 3-4 feet away from each other and repeat the process. Do this several times, each time allowing the dogs to sniff each other for a bit longer period. At this stage it is important to look for tell-tale signs. If the hair on the back of one dog goes straight up lead that dog away and go even slower with the introductions. Watch for other signs such as the lips being lifted, growling, or other very tense behavior.

It is important to keep your dogs on leash. If a fight were to break out both owners could immediately drag each dog apart from each other. If when you introduce two dogs like this and everyone is still okay you can gradually give the dogs more and more freedom and allow them to play even more.

As with all dog training, use common sense. Watch for signs in your dog. Introducing two dogs can be fun, but you must always exercise caution.

Post from: Pets Mall

How to Introduce Two Dogs

Purebred Dogs Are Merely Strain-Refined Mutts!

Doberman Pinscher: The Doberman Pinscher dog breed was the brainchild of door-to-door tax collector Herr Louis Doberman. Whether Herr Doberman developed this dog breed as enforcer or protector has never been truly established but one aspect that is not in contention is the fact that his was an unenviable profession! It is well documented that since biblical times the tax collector has been much reviled; even today the tax collector is the subject of scorn and disgust. If you truly want to belabor the point, the next time you are at a social gathering, casually mention that you work for the IRS and watch the little-witnessed phenomenon of how so many can disappear so quickly!

However back to Herr Doberman and his dangerous profession; tired of being pushed about and quite possibly being set upon by irate tax payers, poor Herr Doberman came up with the novel yet economic solution of developing a dog breed that would be both enforcer and protector! The "ingredients" for his new dog breed included the following: Rottweiler; German Pinscher; Greyhound and the Manchester Terrier. Though some wishful fanciers contend that the German Shepherd dog was also involved in the genetic compilation of the Doberman Pinscher, this is highly unlikely since the development of the German Shepherd occurred a little later than that of the Doberman Pinscher.

The early form of the Doberman Pinscher dog was not the sleek lean machine that epitomizes the breed today, but it was a heavier-boned dog somewhat more similar in appearance to the Rottweiler dog breed. Subsequent tweaks by later breeders eventually resulted with the sleek contemporary dog that defines the modern Doberman Pinscher. The point of note here is that the Doberman Pinscher, a well-known dog breed that is officially recognized by countless of International Kennels such as the AKC, was a crossbreed developed from various other dog breeds before it attained the holy-grail status of purebred!

Verdict: The Doberman Pinscher, like all the other so-called purebred dogs is nothing more than a strain refined mutt. Sniff! What can I say…these pesky mongrels are everywhere, most of them disguising themselves as well-established purebreds!

Designer/Hybrid Dogs

Though the Labradoodle is widely accredited as the crossbreed dog that set the whole designer-dog movement rolling along at a good clip, the truth of the matter is that other well established crossbreeds already existed. One such crossbreed or so-called designer dog is the Cockerpoo (Cockapoo), a cross between the American Cocker Spaniel and a Miniature Poodle. The Cockerpoo has been in existence since the 1960s (in contrast to the Labradoodle which was developed in the 1980s). The Cockerpoo is currently so well established in North America that there is a strong movement to consolidate a breeding standard.

These days "Oodles" or "Poos" (Poodle hybrids) are practically everywhere in North America for the simple reason they translate into mega bucks. Though the Labradoodle (perhaps the best known Poodle derivative) was developed with a utilitarian purpose in mind, most designer dogs have no other function than to propel a burgeoning and lucrative market for these hybrid dogs; as it so happens, backyard breeders very quickly recognized the enormous profits to be had from designer dogs.

To date the designer dog market is flourishing, strong evidence that people are quite willing to shell out mega bucks so as to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. And perhaps you've noticed, nobody refers to these mutts as well…mutts, for the simple reason crossbreeds do not satisfy people's sniff factor! (Sniff Factor defines the human tendency to snobbishness; in earlier times the upper classes were predisposed to strolling about with their noses pointed skywards as an expression of their obvious class superiority (as though reaching for air unpolluted by the masses!) Calling a mongrel a designer dog is certain to guarantee a far better price than if the animal were addressed as a crossbreed.

The unfortunate fallout of this whole designer dog issue, is that there're now many more dogs in shelters and rescues, as well as dogs being euthanized, because of unethical breeders, who without regard to genetics, breed thousands of these dogs every year in a bid to capitalize on the public's ignorance and insatiable appetite for "exclusive" or "limited" dogs.

So how did this designer dog brouhaha really begin?

Good Intentions Open Pandora's Box

Sometime during the 1980s, Wally Conron, the breeding manager for the Royal Guide Dog Association of Australia embarked on a quest to develop a non-allergenic guide dog for a visually impaired client whose husband happened to be allergic to common dog fur. Conron settled on the standard Poodle as the ideal cross with the already established Labradors in use at their center, for the simple fact that the Poodle,s as a highly trainable working dog with tightly curled coat, constituted a the best-fit match.

After two years of trials including 33 successive disappointment runs, Wally Conron hit pay dirt! A cross mating between one of their most prized Labradors and a Poodle specimen resulted in a litter of 3 non-allergenic puppies. Sultan the 1st ever Labradoodle destined for guide-dog greatness was introduced to his new owner amidst great fanfare. The bonding was a great success and Conron was confident that the remaining two puppies would quickly be snapped up; after all, the center at which he worked had a 6-month backlog of requests from people hoping to foster a dog. But he miscalculated; nobody it seemed wanted a dog that was associated with the dirty word crossbreed.

As eight weeks rolled by, the remaining two pups still hadn't found homes and the critical-period window in which they needed to bond with a new owner and thus become successful guide dogs was closing fast. Out of sheer frustration Wally Conron decided to call his new dog breed the Labradoodle and thenceforth stopped referring to them as crossbreeds. That was the eureka moment he had been waiting for (evidence of the sniff factor in play again)!

Within weeks, requests for this new "miracle dog" inundated the center…the rest as the saying goes, was history! Other than the Labradoodle, few designer dogs have been developed for utilitarian purposes and in fact for the most part new breeds are introduced for purely cosmetic purposes. Having said that though, it would be remiss not to acknowledge the fact that some new dog breeds are currently being developed to address the all pervasive problem of genetic disease in the canine; especially in the more popular breeds.

Some other well-established crossbreeds are the Bull Boxer which is a cross between the Boxer and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The Bull Boxer is said to be a more affable dog, especially towards other pets, than the Staffordshire Bull Terrier and is also reputed to be less inclined to exhibit the immature behaviorisms characteristic of the Boxer. By and large though, the substantial prevalence of the designer-dog set is to be found firmly within the realm of Poodle mixes. Such Poodle mixes usually go by names, which if not exactly flattering, are to say the least, colorful:

1. Doxiepoo (Dachshund Poodle Mix)

2. Papipoo (Papillon Poodle Mix)

3. Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever Poodle Mix)

4. Jack-A-Poo (Jack Russell Terrier Poodle Mix)

5. Irish Doodle (Irish Setter Poodle Mix) to name but a few.

Verdict: Sniff! These dogs may go under the guise of designer dog…but let's be honest, they are no more than glorified mutts!

The Humble Yet Ubiquitous Mutt

So where does the lowly mutt fit in this picture of brave new doggy world; that is to say, other than bearing the brunt of the purebred afficionado's scorn! Well as I have amply illustrated in the paragraphs above, all dog breeds are essentially mixed breeds even the purebreds. Purebred dogs are so entitled because over several generations they have been specifically bred for selective traits. But therein lies their Achilles' heel or weakness. Due to such selective-trait breeding, purebred dogs have an inherently high prevalence of genetic disease.

A classic example illustrating some of the problems encountered in trait-selective breeding can be found in the history of the Dalmatian. Breeding for the sharply-defined spot trait unintentionally also led to selective breeding for an abnormal uric acid gene (case of gene linkage). The result was that the Dalmatian dog breed was dogged (no pun intended) with hereditary urine stone disease. In an attempt to rectify the problem yet retain the desired spot pattern, the Dalmatian was crossbred with various Pointer breeds (Sniff! Sniff! What did I tell you…all mutts the lot of them!).

Conversely the lack of trait-selective breeding and a diverse gene pool in the mutt makes such dogs so much healthier and more robust than their purebred counterparts! Thus unless you're going to develop your own dog breed, if all you're looking for in a dog is a pet, do yourself, your pocket as well as the millions of dogs on death row a favor and adopt a dog from a shelter! Trust me, they make excellent pets. (Shelters cannot house dogs forever and each year more than 7,000,000 cats and dogs are euthanized!)

Verdict: Hmmm…the lowly mutt. At last! A dog without pretensions!

Designer Dog Breeds

Post from: Pets Mall

Dog Breeds: Hybrid Dogs, Mutts and Purebred Dogs

Owning a dog can be a rewarding and happy experience for the entire family. Deciding to own a dog should be an important decision, a matter that cannot be taken superficially, simply because a dog is not just a furry being, an amusing present, or a fun diversion.

Basic dog obedience training is certainly a necessity for all dogs. Basic dog obedience training is more than just telling a dog to do what we want him to do. It is a way of teaching a dog to behave properly or in a way we deem proper under certain specific conditions or circumstances.

Proper dog obedience training is definitely not a "do-it-quick" thing. It is a continuous, life-long process – a work in constant progress. It should continue for the lifetime of a dog. Dog obedience training – whether basic or advanced – has never become more important than today when a lot of dog owners bring their pet dogs to so many places where they go.

Proper dog obedience training should begin when a dog is still a puppy. The first four months of a dog's life are very important in his training. This is the specific period when he learns behaviors that he will practice in his lifetime. This is the right time to teach your dog basic commands such as sit and fetch.

It is to be noted that dog obedience training methods or procedures are not created equal. There are various training types, approaches and methodologies which have come to be developed through the years that deal with dog obedience training.

But positive dog obedience training is quickly becoming the preferred method of dog training. This method of training is possible for just about every young dog.

Obedience training should be fun and rewarding for both you and your dog. A dog who has undertaken good training is confident and friendly and can be given greater social freedom than a dog who has not been trained at all. A trained dog will dutifully do basic commands issued by his owner.

Dog obedience training is more than just training your dog, it involves teaching the dog owner too. Going through dog obedience training is something every dog owner should do. It should be a worthwhile experience for both the dog and the dog owner.

And because training is all about communication, it is important that dog owners need to learn to communicate with their dog. Talk to your dog. Tell your dog you love him every day. Even if you don't say "I love you" to your furry friend, look him square in the eyes and say something – anything.

We all like to be recognized and accepted as a family member. Dogs understand human language more than we think they do. Get your dog's attention just as you would a person: call him by his name and look right at him when talking to him.

One of the basic obedience training points relevant in this regard is teaching your dog to sit on command. Training your dog to sit is probably the first thing you will train your dog to do.

To start the training: say “sit” while gently pressing his rump down and holding a treat above your dog's head. When a dog is forced to look upward, he will automatically sit on his hind legs.

When you want your dog to sit, hold a treat a bit above his head and say "sit”. As the dog sits, say sit again and then immediately give him the treat. Your dog should drop into a sitting position in order to reach the food.

Another favorite basic command that we like to teach our dogs is fetch. Teaching your dog to fetch promotes bonding and is a great way to give your dog some exercise.

To do this, first throw a ball – but not too far, though – and give the command "fetch". As the dog inevitably starts to run towards it, yell “fetch” again. If there is no ball available for you to use, you can use any object that your dog loves to play with the most, as this would make him want to fetch it.

Be reminded not to play fetch with heavy objects or sticks as this could injure your dog somehow or damage his teeth.

The most basic of dog obedience training is to get your dog to sit and fetch. As I said at the start of this article, proper dog obedience training is not a "do-it-quick" thing: it is a continuous, life-long process – a work in constant progress.

Dog obedience training is also a very physical activity, so getting tired and exhausted is all part of it. And doing it is never without any risk of injury, especially concerning more aggressive dog breeds.

Having said that, dog obedience training is certainly a must for all dogs. One major mistake many pet owners make is to assume that training a dog will be over in a short span of time. That, of course, is a gross misconception. Training your dog continues throughout your dog's life.

Dog obedience training is definitely a breeze with the proper attitude of the dog owner and under proper conditions. Start training your dog today and make his life and yours a lot more better in the future.

Post from: Pets Mall

The Importance of Basic Dog Obedience Training

Dogs are one of the most popular pets in the world. They have enjoyed this status for a very long time, probably from the time 10,000 to 15,000 years ago when Stone Age cave dwellers lived and hunted with dogs.

If you think you want a dog, you're following a well-established tradition.

Why You Might Want a Dog

There are a number of reasons that people think they might want a dog for a pet. The most universal is the desire for the companionship of an animal who will be a loyal friend for many years. Others think it would be nice to have a watchdog to guard the house, and some people are interested in participating in dog shows, agility trials or other organized activities.

If you're thinking about getting a dog, it's important to determine if you can care for him properly. Dogs need several things from a pet parent:

Time

Commitment

Attention

For your dog to stay healthy, he will need to be fed correctly, exercised sufficiently, groomed regularly and taken to the vet for regular checkups and shots. If you want your dog to be well-mannered and a pleasure to be around, you will have to make sure he is thoroughly socialized and trained, which requires spending many hours with him. Dogs also need set schedules so they know when they'll be fed and when they'll be let out.

If you're a very busy person who works long hours and travels a lot, dog ownership may not be for you.

Things to Consider Before You Buy a Dog

Owning a dog can be one of the most rewarding experiences you can have, but before you even begin to think about what kind of dog you might want, you need to ask yourself some serious questions about how well your lifestyle will suit any dog.

Many people fall in love with a cute puppy at a pet store and bring it home only to face a brutal truth. That cute puppy will have to be taken out to relieve himself first thing in the morning. Every single morning. Even weekend mornings. Even if it's raining or snowing or 100 degrees in the shade. And he'll have to go out more than once a day, sometimes several times more than once, especially when he's young.

That's just the start. Here are some other things to seriously consider before plunging into dog ownership:

Allergies

A bad allergic reaction to dogs in a member of your family can result in your having to find a new home for the dog--a sad experience for everyone. Some individuals are severely allergic and can’t even live in a house where a dog has lived. Others are much less bothered and can make adjustments so that they can live comfortably with a pet. An allergy may be to the dog’s saliva, hair or dander. Not all dogs cause the same allergic reaction. Certain breeds are known to be less allergenic because they shed very little or not at all. These include the Chinese crested, which has no hair, and breeds, which can range in size, such as a Basenji, Bichon Frise, and a Standard Poodle.

What Do You Want in a Dog?

Is your main concern to have a house pet who will be a good companion? Do you want an athletic dog who can go with you when you run? Will you take your dog on camping trips and will he have to be big enough to carry his own food? Do you want a dog that can be a credible watchdog and guardian? Do you want to show the dog? Do you want to participate in agility, obedience or field trials? You will want to study the different breeds and then talk to breeders and members of local dog clubs to find out what characteristics will best fit your expectations.

Can Your Children Adjust?

Children love puppies, but both children and puppies need supervision. Kids can play too rough with a puppy, and a young child will not understand that the puppy is tired and needs to rest. A puppy who is hurt or tired of playing is likely to growl and snap, and sometimes bite, to get the child to leave him alone. An older dog can be a serious threat if he is not used to children. There is one rule NEVER to be broken: Babies and toddlers should never be left unsupervised with a dog, no matter how much you trust the dog.

Can Your Other Pets Adjust?

If you already have pets, you will need to consider how the dog will adjust to them and they to him. If you have cats that have never been around a dog, you may have a long period of adjustment or the combination may not work at all. Puppies will usually learn to live with cats if care is taken that the initial meeting is not too traumatic. If you are considering an older dog, try to find out how he has previously reacted to other pets.

How Much Space Do You Have for a Dog?

This is an important consideration. A large, active dog, such as a retriever or German shepherd can run and play in a large, fenced-in yard. Often, though, the dog doesn't do much playing if you aren't available to be with him, and he will simply lounge around on the grass just as he would if he were inside on his dog bed. Large dogs can be happy even in an apartment if they get a long walk or two every day.

Housing

Unless you live in the country and spend a great deal of time outside with your dog, he will not be happy as a strictly outdoor dog. Outside should be for playing and exercising. A dog should never be left outdoors in hot weather without shade and water or in cold weather without well-insulated shelter. If your dog spends much time outside, he will need a fenced-in yard or a large kennel.

Can You Afford a Dog?

Your dog will have to be fed and groomed and provided with toys and treats. You may want to take him to obedience classes. If you travel occasionally on business or you're going on trips and can't take your dog, you will need to arrange to board him or to hire a dog sitter who will take care of him in your home.

Veterinary Care

Your dog will need regular veterinary checkups, which will include vaccinations, worming and flea and tick prevention. A medical emergency can cost several hundred dollars. As your dog ages, he may develop chronic health conditions that require regular visits to the vet. Veterinary charges vary from city to city. If you have not owned a pet before, you might want to call to see what the rates are in your area.

Grooming

If you don't have time to groom your dog, don't have the facilities to give him a bath conveniently, or if he requires special grooming, you will need to pay for a professional groomer. You will also need brushes and combs for maintenance.

Licensing

Dogs are required to be licensed. Fees are set by the county or the city and vary widely. To find out about licensing, call your county animal control office. Your vet and the local animal shelter will also know where you should go to purchase a license.

Exercise and Companionship - Do You Have Time?

Some dogs need only a short walk once or twice a day, while others are built to run all day. Be honest when you consider what level of regular exercise will be comfortable for you. If you have a heavy work schedule, taking the dog for a walk in the evening may be a burden rather than a pleasure. An active dog who only gets real exercise on weekends and holidays is likely to be unhappy, not to mention bored and destructive. In addition to exercise, your dog needs time with you. If you have a full work schedule and a busy social life, your dog is likely to be lonely, bored and destructive.

Size and Energy Level of the Dog

Before you even think about getting a young, highly energetic dog, such as a golden retriever, you need to ask yourself if you are strong enough to control and exercise a dog that will want to run and play and that could easily knock you down by accident. Don't buy a puppy that will turn into a 150-pound athlete if your energy level is more attuned to a stroll with a toy poodle.

Is Your Lifestyle Stable?

One common reason that dogs are given up to animal shelters is that the owner has had to move, and the new living quarters don't allow pets. Or the owner has married, and the new spouse doesn't like dogs. Are you likely to move frequently? Is your family life stable? Does your job require you to travel often or for long periods of time?

Puppy or Older Dog?

Most people automatically think about puppies when they think about getting a dog. While puppies are cute and fun, there are benefits in getting an older dog. It's much easier to housetrain an older dog. Puppies don't physically have the capacity for holding their urine for long period of time and must be taken out frequently. You will not have to wait for an older dog to grow up to see what size he will be or what kind of temperament he will have, and if you get your dog from an animal shelter or a rescue organization, you will probably be saving his life.

The First Steps

If after having read all this, you still want a dog, congratulations! You're probably eager to take the first step, and you want to dash out to the pet store, or the breeder, or the shelter, or the rescue organization, but don't rush out and pick up a dog just yet. It's important that you take the time to read as much as you can about selecting, introducing and keeping a dog. Browse through the other articles on our web site. Check books out of the public library or visit a bookstore.

Consider what kind of dog you want. Do you want a purebred dog or a mix? Do you want a male or a female? Do you want a puppy or an older dog? Talk to other dog owners that you know. Where did they get their dogs and what was their experience? Where do you want to look for the perfect choice?

Once you decide to get a dog, choose an occasion to bring him home when you and your family will have time to give him plenty of attention; bringing him home at the start of a long weekend or a vacation, when you will have more time to spend at home with him, will definitely make the transition to his new home easier for him as well as his new family. Prepare for his arrival. You'll need to know what to expect and how to care for him when he first comes into your life.

If you have carefully chosen your new canine friend and properly prepared for him, bringing him home can be one of the most joyful experiences of your life. He will become part of your family and will love you without reservation. Return his love, and he will really be your best friend.

Post from: Pets Mall

Should You Get a Dog?

The type of training in which an electronic aid is used is critically important, for it will influence the type of product and methods used. Is the equipment being used to teach a new obedience command, correct some common misbehavior, or is it being used to reinforce another electronic training methodology?

Factors affecting success Before an electronic training tool is used, it is strongly suggested that the entire training situation be re-examined. There are three major considerations in this re-evaluation:

Does the owner know what he is doing, does he understand the training process, and can he apply proper methodology to a specific situation?
Is the owner training the dog properly, does he have a plan for this specific misbehavior, and is he executing that plan appropriately and correctly?
Is the dog trainable? Is the dog in question stubborn, set in his ways, or unintelligent?

(We believe that all dogs are trainable. Dogs that seem stubborn, or unintelligent, have simply not been trained properly, consistently, or effectively.)

Of these factors, the first two are most important. If training is not successful, in most cases it is because owner education, preparedness, consistency or commitment is lacking. This may be difficult for some owners to accept, but remember that we have invited dogs into our environment. It is our responsibility to teach them in ways they can understand. This is incredibly important, because if an owner has not taken the time, or applied the appropriate techniques properly and consistently, training with an electronic product will not make a difference. It will only confuse even the smartest dog.

There are certain signals that suggest a dog has not been properly trained. In these instances a dog may:

Resist when his owner attempts to place a collar around his neck.
Withstand correction, of any type, in the presence of certain distractions
Control his owner by acting timid or by ignoring his owner
Panic when he senses a warning.
Attempt to escape when receiving a correction
Do anything except the behavior necessary to avoid the correction.

Electronic pet training requires knowledge and skill Why the concern for proper education? Because of the largest variable in the equation - the owner. Let us face it, humans are very unpredictable, as far as dogs are concerned. The response of most owners to the need for correction varies widely, depending on the dog, the training, the situation at hand, and even the mood they happen to be in at the time. This is not conducive to effective training - of any kind.

In most cases, a dog exhibits a behavior in response to some stimulus or distraction. Owners must be careful not to create yet another, different misbehavior by misapplying the correction, or applying it at the wrong time. And, for the safety of the dog, it is unnecessary to correct it for every little thing. Owners must be selective to avoid canine confusion. When applied properly, electronic training can be done successfully. To help understand this, let us examine how people respond to their dog without electronics.

Dog owners respond to their dog in any number of different ways. They may reward their dog by petting, talking, providing food or treats, playing, or letting them sleep on the bed. The list is as long as there are owners on it. These same owners also correct in various ways, including yelling, hitting, throwing things, the use of a chain link training collar, ignoring their dog, not providing food or treats, or isolation in a room, crate, or kennel. This does not imply that all of these forms of reward and correction are acceptable. Only that they are multiple, and that training can be successful under some of these circumstances. So it is with electronic training.

One of the greatest acknowledged advantages of electronic training is that sophisticated electronics do make us humans more predictable. It enhances human consistency, especially as it relates to correction. It also allows humans to easily and conveniently apply appropriate corrections, even when a dog is not within range of traditional (leash and choker collar) correction techniques.

Rules of electronic training As was mentioned earlier, electronic training operates on the same basic principles used in all canine behavior modification: correction, redirection, and reward. Therefore, it is imperative that the dog understands the basics before more sophisticated training begins.

'Dummy Equipment Effect': Before electronic training begins, the owner/trainer needs to be comfortable in the use of the device, and the dog needs to be comfortable, as well. Thus it is very important to create the 'Dummy Equipment Effect' before beginning.

Dogs are highly intelligent and certainly smart enough to know the difference between the different types of collars being used. They look different. They smell different. They exert different pressures on the neck once they are applied. Even the owner/trainer acts differently with the different collars. In some cases, the owner/trainer is there; in other cases, he is not.

Because all of this is true, it is important to eliminate the equipment itself from the learning process. Here is how.

Before beginning to train with an active electronic collar, the dog should first become accustomed to a deactivated collar (i.e., take the battery out). Even if the dog trainer or dog owner is under pressure to train the dog quickly (e.g., the neighbors are complaining), he still needs to teach the dog that the collar is not something to be feared.

The last thing someone wants to see is the dog cowering when it is being approached with a training collar, electronic or otherwise. By spending just a few days introducing the dog to the collar, other problems can be prevented.

General Rules: All of the general rules of obedience training apply to electronic training as well. In fact, they are probably even more important in electronic training. These guidelines include:

Do not train the dog for extended periods of time.
Limit the number of corrections the dog receives in one training session and in one training day.
Be sure that corrections are properly balanced with reward.
Always give the correction at the same time. That is, do so only when the dog is actually misbehaving, not before the misbehavior occurs or after the misbehavior has stopped. This is important because it gives the dog a chance to learn, (i.e., to understand what causes the correction in the first place).

The importance of redirection and reward Electronic training combines several different techniques. Applying a correction is only a small part of a training program. Redirection and praise are far more important.

Why is this methodology important? Suppose there is a dog in a containment system, but every day he charges away and barks at a jogger who is running along outside the established bounds. What should be the desired correction? He should come when he is called, stay in the yard, and stop barking at the jogger. But chasing and barking are perfectly normal in a dog's natural environment. Only in the human environment are they inappropriate.

Therefore, if the owner/trainer really wants to train the dog under these circumstances, he must first correct at the appropriate time, and consistently. He would do so using an obedience command. So, before beginning more complicated electronic training, it is important that the dog understand basic obedience commands. The trainer/owner must build from a solid foundation provided by these training basics.

In this specific instance, as soon as the dog takes off running, he would be given the 'Come' command. That way, when applying correction, it is because the dog did not come on command, not because he is chasing a jogger. Conversely, when the dog does obey immediately, he is praised for responding to the command, not for breaking off his pursuit. This is called redirection.

The risks in electronic training are the many variables. This same situation, handled improperly, can have the opposite effect. It could train the dog to attack joggers. A correction at the wrong time may cause the dog to identify the correction stimulus with the jogger. Dogs are known to have fight or flight responses to such threats. If the dog's response is to 'fight,' joggers beware!

Reward: Unfortunately, some dog trainers/owners put the emphasis on correction. Even in this article, the information is weighted in this area. This is because correction is the area where most training problems occur. Reward is a much easier concept to understand and apply. During training, the dog should constantly and consistently be given a deserved reward - preferably praise and petting - for behavior that meets his training objectives. Again, timing is critical. The dog must be able to make the connection between the reward and the appropriate behavior.

Gratuitous reward is also a no-no. The dog trainer must reward the dog only when he is behaving properly. Do not worry, there will be plenty of opportunities to do so. Unless, of course, the dog trainer/owner slacks off and chooses to reward inconsistently; or he breaks down further and treats the dog to praise, petting, and food, even if a behavior is inappropriate.

Emotional and energy outlet: Appropriate emotional outlets also bear some discussion in this context. Obviously, electronic training is designed to stop a dog from exhibiting misbehaviors, and help reward him for what the dog trainer/owner considers appropriate behavior. But if a dog cannot leave the yard, no reward can replace the freedom he has lost. In such cases, a dog must be given other appropriate outlets. This is why activities like running with the dog, or playing with him, are extremely important.

Redirection: Redirection is equally important, if not more so. In many electronic training situations, the dog trainer/owner needs to provide an alternate behavior for the dog. This redirection provides a known behavior pattern that the dog can fall back on, enabling the dog trainer/owner to reward him. A good example of such a behavior pattern is the 'Sit,' 'Get your ball,' or other command the dog already understands.

Have a plan: Overall, what one tries to do with redirection and reward is build better behavior in the dog. But when building anything, it is useful to have a blueprint - a plan that outlines specifically what to do under an array of circumstances.

Because of all the variables involved with electronic training, the dog trainer/owner needs to have such a plan. He needs to know exactly what he is going to do before a situation arises. Because, when it comes to training dogs, he needs to expect the unexpected. But if there is a plan in place, he will know exactly what to do.

The best plans are the simplest - the ones that ask the dog to do something basic. Pick something the dog has done many times before; perhaps a 'Sit' and 'Stay' command. Reliance on an old habit can bring a misbehaving dog - even a frightened or frazzled dog - back into the comfort zone. This will enable the dog trainer/owner to reward the dog, or regroup, should this become necessary.

Post from: Pets Mall

Electronic Dog Training

Owning a dog has alot of physical and psychological benefits. When trying to determine the dog best for you or your family, there is alot to think about! Can you afford it? Do you have the room? Who is going to take care of the dog? Do you have the time to invest in a dog? Do you want a lightweight or heavyweight dog? Do you want a small breed or a large breed or something in-between?
Do you live in a quiet area where alot of barking would not be a GOOD thing? Do you live in the country? Do you have a fenced area to keep the dog in or will this dog stay in the house? Do you want a short hair or long hair dog? Can you afford a dog with alot of grooming requirements? Are you allowed to own a pet if you live in a condo or an apartment? Do you need spousal approval? Do you need anyone's approval?

Many people play the "What kind of Dogs do you have?" game with a breeder and personally, I find this very aggravating. I am sure other breeders find this aggravating as well. It is very frustrating for a breeder to go into detail with someone over the telephone about what type of dogs they have and then, not only do you have no idea what it is you want but you also have to get someone's approval before getting back to the breeder. Your mind should be made up regarding the type of dog you are seeking well before calling a breeder. If your dog is a family issue, then this should be discussed before contacting a breeder. You should also ONLY call a breeder who is advertising the type of dog you are searching for. If you have not yet figured out what kind of dog you are looking for, don't put it on a breeder to figure it out for you.

If you are on a budget, don't be afraid to say so to the breeder IN THE VERY BEGINNING of your call and let them know what you can afford. Don't just ask how much a dog is. Chances are, you are just "Comparison" shopping and where dogs are concerned, this is completely the wrong thing to do. Just because you have calling breeders advertising the same breed, does not mean you are buying the same quality of breed. If you are looking for a show dog...you are not going to want a dog who has no champion ancestors or lineage and if you are looking for a pet, don't expect to pay just a few dollars from a breeder who has taken the time to research their dogs' CHAMPION LINEAGE. If you are on a budget, you should try to obtain a dog that has little grooming requirements, medical needs, upkeep and who has just a pet/average lineage or ancestry........ perhaps you can even look into adopting a dog from a rescue agency, human society or animal shelter. Breeders have to charge a certain amount for their dogs in order to recoup their expenses and pay for overhead & costs involved with their business, whereas, a shelter or rescue agency are compensated through the state or through public funding and donations. Private breeders and kennels do not get reimbursed from the state or receive public donations. Everything regarding raising, breeding and producing a puppy by a breeder is an out of pocket expense for a breeder and Kennel. Very few people have any idea just how expensive and time consuming it is for a breeder, let alone appreciate the difficult, long hours this kind of job requires . It is very frustrating to hear people make the nasty comment to a breeder that they just "live off of their puppies" or are a "puppy mill" and on and on with the name calling. It amazes me how cheap some people can be when they desire to obtain a puppy or dog from a breeder and then have the audacity to do the name calling if they have some kind of issue down the road....it's absurd! If you live in a condo or apartment, you may want to look at purchasing a "social" dog or breed. It is important for dogs who live inside apartments to get out and mingle. It is also imperative that you NOT crate your dog for hours on end. A dog needs to get out and romp around........they need to stretch and build up muscles and use their legs. They can not live their lives for hours on end in a crampy crate. Some of your small breeds who adapt very well to apartments and condos are:

*Toy Poodle hybrids
*Yorkshire Terrier
*Maltese
*Poodle
*Papillon
*Miniature Schnauzer
*Chihuahua
*Bichon Frise
*Boston Terrier
*Japanese Terrier
*Dachshund
*Cairn Terrier
*Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
*American Cocker Spaniel
*Sheltie
*Lhasa Apso
*Shih Tzu
*Basset Hound
*Pomeranian
*Pembroke Welsh Corgi
*Chinese Pug
*Schnoodle
*Pom-Chi
*Goldendoodle
*Schneagle
*Puggle

Many of the above breeds are small, nice and easy to get along with. Some small breeds can cause BIG trouble for people....especially the INDEPENDENT THINKERS such as the Jack Russell Terrier and any that tend to be yappy or high strung such as your purebred toy poodle, Pomeranian and Rat Terrier. Breeds that are traditionally bred to hunt do far better with someone who has a house with a nice large fenced in yard. Those breeds can be the Beagle, Pointer, The English Setter, The English Springer Spaniel, The Harrier, the Black and Tan Coonhound, the Bloodhound. There are many hunting breeds and retrieving breeds that do far better outside than inside. Now here we are in 2006 and there are many very nice small hybrid dogs available that would work out just fine in various living situations.

Dogs that have grooming requirements should be passed over if you are NOT able to afford the time, cost and care they require to keep their coat in tip top shape or feel comfortable taking on this task yourself. Such breeds can be the Bichon Frise, The Poodle, The Borzoi, the Maltese, The Yorkshire Terrier, the Shih Tzu, the Lhasa Apso, the Schnauzer, the Havanese, the Goldendoodle, the Pekingese, the Pomeranian, the Lowchen, Tibetan Terrier, the Bearded Collie, the Shetland Sheepdog, The Old English Sheepdog and all long haired Poodle hybrids.

Never purchase a large breed dog if you do NOT have the time to give this breed many walks outdoors or have an enclosed area to allow this breed to use its muscles. Breeds such as the Golden Retriever, the Rottweiler, The Mastiff, the German Shepherd, Great Dane and other large breed dogs need room to romp and stretch! Crating for hours on end can cause many medical problems for the dog. Many people who crate their dogs for endless hours each and every day mistake a dog's difficulty walking for hip dysplasia! A dog who is not allowed to build up its muscles.......who is not allow the opportunity to have room to grow, stretch, run and be the dog it should be will have all sorts of aches and pains! Of course, there can be joint pain as well due to NOT using the limbs enough. If your dog is crated for endless hours, you are stunting the growth of your dog. There is no way its muscles can fill out and work the way they are suppose to work. Your dog is achy.....in muscular pain and stiff. You'd have to imagine YOURSELF being cramped inside of a crate all day long for hours and hours and never seeing anyone until the end of the day. Even if you have no fence for your yard.....there are kennel pens you can purchase that will allow your dog to be outside and able to jump up.....walk around and breathe fresh outdoor air. Make sure, however, that your dog has plenty of shade and water as he or she can die of heatstroke quite easily during the summer months. Canvas shelter tops can be purchased for as little as $79 for kennel runs and they last for many years. Some hold up quite nice if you do not get alot of snow in the winter. Kennel runs start at approx. $179- $299 and up. The nice thing is they are easy to put up and you can always add panels as your dog grows or as you need them. This is quite cheap compared to the vet bill your going to have should your dog begin showing signs of medical problems from all the hours and months you have kept him or her confined. So, small dogs fit in well for those who have small living areas or who do not have the time to take fido on long jogs or walks. Large dogs need lots of space! Large dogs also have to be walked regardless of the weather. With small dogs, you may be able to get away with paper training.. Good natured dogs give people a physical and psychological boost. People tend to lead a better life when they own a pet. They get more exercise......they get fresh air.....They can socialize more with others while outside taking their pet for a walk.....People benefit from their pet's unconditional love.
But while a dog can bring benefits to your life.....they can also increase your financial responsibilities and hamper certain aspects to your life....especially if you travel frequently and can not take your dog with you.
This is why it is very important that you can fit a dog into your budget and life. This is why it is important to know what type of dog you can afford before you contact the breeder. Puppies are demanding like infants and Toddlers. They require alot of training, alot of your time and can be costly.
While many purebred dogs are great to own....there are wonderful mixed breeds who make great pets and will shower you with just as much attention. Sometimes the benefit of owning an older dog is that they have had all of their vaccinations.....they can be healthier than a puppy.....they have outgrown the chewing stage....they are use to noises and people.....they can be housebroken already and they can sometimes just fit right in with your home. Of course, there are downsides to purchasing an older dog as well. Some can have behavioral problems.....some can still have problems with digging and chewing....some can be wary, nervous and may have a tendency to bite out of fear...especially if they were abandoned, mistreated and abused. You can't blame the dog! Some dogs can be scarred for life due to the way they were treated as a puppy from an abusive home. Abuse comes in many forms and is not always just about hitting. Abuse within the family unit home can spill over to the dog.
Older dogs may also already have developed illnesses or conditions that require medical care, so what may seem to be "cheap" can actually cost you more in the long run through many vet bills. Quite sadly, many older dogs make fine, instant companions, yet few are willing to adopt an older dog.
The downside to owning a puppy is of course the fact that they need vaccinations......they need to have obedience training.....they need to be housebroken......they need to learn NOT to chew on your furniture.....
they can cost you alot of money by the time they become an adult.
But, this is the territory that comes with owning a pet! There is NO SUCH THING AS A PERFECT PET.
Dogs and cats have their flaws just like humans. They all have their quirks....the medical problems as they go through life....their need for attention and detail.....the need for a bath....the need for teeth cleaning and care.....eye problems......need for vet care and of course...the need to eat, sleep and be happy. No amount of medical testing will guarantee you a defective free animal! Puppy's who have parents that are tested for everything under the sun can still come down with a defect , illness or a disease. That's life! Don't believe you can own an animal and never have to prepare yourself for emotional or financial loss. That's not going to happen. As with all living things....they eventually die from one cause or another. Even dogs who have been tested for everything can still die from a hereditary disease or from age related or medical related problems. It's a fact of life.
I personally believe that you SHOULD NOT purchase a dog based on the testing its parents had from the breeder. You are holding on to a false security blanket if you believe that because a breeder had your puppy's parents tested for every ailment known to man (and dog) that your puppy will NEVER DIE OF ANY AILMENT, ILLNESS OR Disease or come down with any genetic ailment. Well, chances are your dog could get ran over by a car and NOT die of any ailment, illness or disease......There are no guarantees in life! I am not going to paint you a rosy picture where everyone lives happily ever after......you may live well and your pet can live well, but nothing is forever.

The Basics in dog care.......

When you finally decide to select your canine....you hopefully will have also given some consideration as to where your new pet is going to sleep and what areas your pet will have free reign. For crate training tips,
CLICK HERE. Since puppies are well known for chewing on anything they can get their mouths on (just like a baby teething), it is important that you have plenty of toys, knotted ropes, large balls and other great items for your puppy to play with. Never entice your dog to play with your shoes, slippers, socks or other personal items. A dog can not differentiate between your new stuff and old stuff. Parenting a dog is much like parenting a child. They have to learn between right and wrong. It is important to "puppy proof" your home. This means that before you bring your new puppy home....make sure you do not have any extension cords laying about. Pick up any item that is small enough for your puppy to place inside its mouth and possibly swallow. A puppy wants to taste everything! They can choke to death if they get a small item lodged in their throat...such as a marble or other small toy that may belong to your child. Make sure you don't have any glass near the floor or at "puppy level".
It is a very good idea to have a crate....a nice large one....ready for your new puppy. Bedding can be placed inside and a stuffed toy to keep him or her company. But don't mistake this crate as a substitute baby sitter. As stated before, never crate your dog for hours on end every single day. Your puppy wants to explore its new living areas....the same thing with an older dog. This includes the trash can, so make sure your dog or puppy can not get into the trash. Serious illness can occur from eating the wrong thing.
Food is another important factor regarding your new pet. The food you select during the first year of your pup's life is critical to its adult development, health and growth. There are many products on the market and selecting the one that is right for you and your dog is important. Complete nutrition is crucial, so make sure you read the back label on the product you select. Corn meal is something you should stay away from.
For feeding tips, CLICK HERE. You will be faced with many choices......so, it is important to keep in mind that you don't want a high protein food for your puppy because a high protein food can cause your dog to grow too rapidly. Rapid growth can then cause joint and bone problems. You should keep in mind the activity level of your dog. Is he a runner? working dog? couch potato? Science Diet, Pedigree, Eukanuba and Iams are very good products on the market. Pedigree cost less than Science diet. Science Diet costs less than Eukanuba and Iams costs less than Eukanuba. While some stores will tell you that feeding with Iams or Eukanuba is cheaper in the long run, don't believe it! Some dogs absolutely LOVE the taste and will eat just as much as they would the Pedigree. Some owners like to feed with Alpo. I personally have never liked the consistency of Alpo. We have found very good results from Pedigree, however, we have also discovered that sometimes our puppies will develop an "allergy" to pedigree and get dry or itchy skin or not do well over a long period of time with this food. We don't know why, but it is usually just one or two pups in a litter every so often. A dog can become sensitive to their food no matter how long they have been eating it. Many people don't realize that when their dog has intense itching over a period of time and no fleas or parasites can be found, that it is their food causing the problem. Dogs can have sensitivities just like people. When hair loss, weight loss, itching or scratching develops and everything seems to check out fine, take the food your dog is eating into consideration. Sometimes changing the diet can make a world of difference. So, while we start all of our puppies out on Pedigree......not every puppy will do well with it as they continue to age.
Foods with antioxidants provides a healthy defense system. Free radicals attacks the cells, causing damage which can result in a weakened immune system and possibly serious diseases. The antioxidants such as vitamins E & C, Beta Carotene and Selenium have shown to reduce the damage caused by free radicals. They also help maintain your pet's immune system and help reduce it against the risk of diseases.

VITAMIN E: One of the most versatile antioxidants. Vitamin E helps support the body's healing process. It has also shown to help prevent heart and neurological diseases. Vitamin E reduces the effects of aging.

VITAMIN C: Works to boost the power of vitamin E in the body to fight the damage caused by toxins and pollution. For this reason, vitamin C is used to help protect against cancer and other diseases.

BETA CAROTENE: Research suggests that carotenoids, like beta carotene, helps build a strong immune system and are considered a powerful tool in the fight against many diseases. Current studies support their use to fight cancer and other serious illnesses.

SELENIUM: An essential trace mineral that works with vitamin E and helps to create important enzymes.
These enzyme systems help protect against cell damage. Selenium also works with other antioxidants in fighting cancer.

Your puppy needs alot of nutrition to get him or her through their first year. This will also keep your puppy and dog healthy and happy. Fat, protein and minerals like calcium and phosphorus help build strong bones and muscles and they also provide plenty of energy to grow and play. Too much of a good thing? Most certainly, too much of these nutrients can actually stunt the growth of your puppy and can also contribute to problems like obesity, bone disorders, heart and kidney disease and other serious ailments. Dogs come in many different sizes and shapes...so their nutritional requirements will vary. Feeding your dog cheap and poorly put-together food is also a very bad thing to do. This is why it is important that you can fit a dog into your budget. Think of how your system would react if you could not afford proper nutrition for yourself.

PRODUCT BENEFITS:

Controlled level of calcium: for healthy joints and bone development.
L-Carnitine: Helps develop strong muscles and healthy bones. Converts fat into energy.
High quality protein: Includes all 10 essential amino acids needed for proper growth.
Energy: Controlled levels of fat and calories to help large breed puppies grow at the proper rate.
Essential fatty acids: Help promote healthy nervous and immune systems.
23 vitamins and minerals: An ideal balance for growing, large breed puppies.
High Digestibility: Reduces stool volume, which makes for easier housetraining and clean up.
Omega 3 & Omega 6 fatty acids: Support healthy function of nervous and immune systems; promote healthy skin and shiny coat.
Digestible Carbohydrates: Supply abundant energy for lively pups.
Calcium: For strong teeth and bones.
Vitamin D: To properly absorb calcium.
B vitamins: For an appropriate metabolism and appetite.

DEFINITE DON'TS:

*Don't ever feed your dog chocolate! This can kill him or her.
*Don't feed your dog cookies. High in fat...low in nutrition.
*Use caution on dairy products. Many dogs are lactose intolerant which can cause diarrhea.
*Bones: NEVER FEED YOUR DOG CHICKEN BONES! These bones are brittle and have sharp edges. Chicken bones can cause damage to your dog's intestines and throat. They can also stick in your dog's throat causing choking which can lead to death. Bones of any kind can also crack your dog's teeth.

Good grooming and veterinarian care is of great benefit to both you and your dog! Regular check-ups and grooming habits can play an important role in keeping your dog healthy, but it is also a great way to bond and spend quality time together.
Keeping your dog's teeth clean is also important to good health. Senior dogs may require soft food if they have lost teeth or have bad teeth.

*Dental kits are available at most pet stores and from your vet's office. Doggie toothpaste is usually included as well as instructions on how to keep your pet's teeth clean.
*Professional teeth cleaning is available through your veterinarian.
*Selecting a professional groomer is just as important as it is making your selection on vet care. While grooming is healthy for your pet, selecting the wrong groomer can be deadly to your dog! We discovered that some groomers actually place your dog under anesthesia. WHAT YOU DON'T KNOW CAN KILL YOUR PUPPY OR DOG! Using unnecessary anesthesia can be detrimental to your dog. It is dangerous and certainly NOT A PROPER WAY TO GROOM A DOG! While this can make a lazy groomer's job easier,
anesthesia should never be used for convenience sake! We highly recommend that you use a groomer that you know, trust or check out carefully. Word of mouth is always a good way to find a good groomer too! The best groomer for a pet is yourself! If you are not placing your dog in a show event, you really should groom your dog yourself. There are many wonderful videos, books and other materials over the Internet to help you learn how to take care of your dog's coat. Grooming your dog is a great way to bond and your dog has come to trust you. Getting your puppy use to having its coat brushed, ears cleaned and nails trimmed will also make your dog familiar with this routine. Each session will get easier and easier as time goes by.

SPAYING AND NEUTERING:

Every year in the United States, between four and six million companion animals end up in animal shelters. Many of these animals are euthanized. Animal activists and those who are holier than thou want to blame breeders for this problem. It is NOT always because of a breeder. The last place a good breeder wants its dogs is in a shelter. Animals make their way to shelters via their irresponsible as well as uneducated owners. Or sometimes they go to shelters due to an owner's death or severe illness. Provisions for your pet's care after your death is essential. Always include your pet in your will. Many people never give it a second thought. Dogs can make their way to shelters by being allowed to roam the streets and they can make their way to shelters due to irresponsible breeders NOT taking care of their dogs. The best age to sterilize your pet is before he or she turns six months of age. This is the age that male dogs are capable of siring a litter. A female will usually go into her first heat at the age of six months.
Having your dog spayed or neutered before the hormones kick in reduce many unwanted behaviors and also prevents unwanted or unplanned pregnancies. My personal beef with those who advocate spaying and neutering such as veterinarians and some kennel clubs is that they do NOT make it easy for dog owners to spay or neuter. Many owners WANT to have this procedure done, but prices on sterilization have gotten out of control and many Kennel clubs, such as AKC, who hold show events pretend to ADVOCATE the spaying or neutering of dogs, yet they REFUSE TO ALLOW AN ALTERED DOG IN THE SHOW RING....which is complete nonsense and shows a double standard!
As a matter of fact, it is BECAUSE of kennel clubs who don't advocate this procedure that there are many unplanned and unwanted pregnancies. A male dog or a female dog can be just as beautiful whether they are intact or altered. Many vets charge outrageous prices and there are many people who can not afford their out of control fees.
A clear example: To have a cat neutered or spayed costs over $180! As of the year 2006, we have watched the cost of spaying and neutering reach over $400! This is the entire cost for having the procedure, hospitalization and other shots, etc; I personally believe that if vets would set their spaying/neutering fees on a sliding scale based on the owner's income, we would have fewer puppies and kittens making their way to shelters where they will most certainly have only been born to die an early age. Homeless and unwanted. Dog owners would then be able to afford this procedure which could possibly help the population explosion of unwanted and unplanned pregnancies in their dogs.
Many shelters or humane societies are now spaying and neutering dogs prior to them leaving their shelters which is great....but you have to remember that they are getting state funding or donations from the general public to make this possible. It is important that you can afford this procedure when thinking about purchasing a new pet. Depending upon your area, spaying & neutering will vary in price.
DO NOT assume that a breeder will sell a puppy or dog to you with the cost of spaying & neutering included. There are times when canine will be advertised in a local paper or online who have been altered and the owner is not seeking any money or is only asking for a small, reasonable fee to allow you to adopt the dog. Most of the time such owners are having to suddenly move or their lives have changed that can not include their pet.
We are not above spaying & neutering our own dogs. As time goes by, our dogs do age or we no longer want to continue breeding a specific breed or specific dog. Many of our dogs are spayed and neutered "senior" dogs. Every year, as our dogs age and we remove dogs from our breeding program, they are spayed or neutered. Although we advertise these dogs to approved, adoptive homes.....the fact remains that those who call us only want puppies or they want dogs who have not been altered so they can "breed" them. Sadly, senior or dogs ranging from 4-6 years of age, have difficulty being placed into adoptive homes because of the lack of quality homes being available to them. We have learned, over the years, that when someone calls and claims they are interested in our older dogs....they are only seeking a "FREE" breeding dog. When we tell them they have to complete an application and that the dogs are altered and if they have not yet been altered, they must be altered before being allowed into their homes...we get the usual "okay, thanks anyway" response. This shows us that the home, number one was NOT a quality pet home we wanted our aging dog to go to and it also shows the lack of homes available to older dogs who could still contribute love and companionship to someone seeking it.

DID YOU KNOW?

For the record, most people who desire to own a dog, desire to own their dog as a companion/pet. There are large numbers of people who do participate in the show ring and on the field in competitions with the dogs that they purchase, but the majority of people only desire to own a pet. People in other nations such as China, Thailand, Vietnam and other Asian countries take pride in their dogs because they consume them as a meal. The manner in which they are slaughtered is completely outrageous! The beliefs are that if the dog is beaten, boiled alive, burned alive or hanged, they will release their adrenaline which supposedly makes their meat tender and the myth goes that the meat boosts a man's virility. Of course there is no scientific evidence of such and this abuse is outrageous!
South Koreans consume over 1 million dogs a year. Horrific? This is of no concern to those who believe there is no wrong doing in consuming a dog for a meal. To those of us who love them & worship them as pets, it is mortifying!
South Koreans believe that there are health benefits such as easy digestion if they consume dog meat.
Fortunately since many groups have tried to change this practice, this tradition is dying out. JUST NOT QUICK ENOUGH!!! The practice of eating dog meat seems to be exclusively with the older generation living outside of South Koreans' major cities. About 3 million (fewer than 10%) of the country's 46 million people, eat dog meat and consider it a delicacy. This means that millions of dogs are killed each year for this country's purpose. Many of the younger generation find this cruelty to animals (and indeed it is) and hope this practice will fade into history.
Thank God, this is not a practice within the United States, but there is still a large amount of animals who suffer at the hands of their owners & breeders. There is still a problem in the United States with dog fighting rings and those who beat them, train them for fighting purposes. We urge ANYONE who knows of this type of behavior going on to notify their local police. There are many breeders who breed their puppies and ship them to Asian countries and know full well that they are selling their pups to be consumed as meals or kept for breeding purposes to have puppies for consumed meal purposes. There are breeders who do not care where their puppies end up and sell them to pet stores or for commercial purposes. This type of breeder is a worthless human who should not even own a single dog. We have never sold a single puppy or dog to a pet store or for commercial purposes and we definitely will NEVER ship a puppy or dog to an Asian country.

To Micro-chip or NOT to Micro-chip....that's the question:

We believe in micro-chipping all pets! This reality hit home for my eldest son who moved into a new home/area in California and his beloved Golden Retriever (which came from us many years ago) ran away with her pal, a Labrador, when a storm blew through and caused their gate to swing open. During the terrible storm, their dogs became scared and hit the road. For days, my son searched high and low for his dogs. Some weeks later, he happened upon a shelters' website where he saw one of his dogs' picture showing the dog up for adoption! Needless to say, he immediately drove down there and regained his dog. The Lab has never been located or found. Had his dogs been micro-chipped, as we urge everyone to do,
Their dogs would have been scanned immediately and found their way home. He is very fortunate to have been able to retrieve at least one of his beloved pets .....however, on a sad note, their Labrador who was their Golden Retrievers' best pal, never made it back home. The two became separated during the storm. We urge everyone to join PETTRAC, the national recovery system backed nationally by state Veterinarian Medical Associations. Nearly every dog and cat that makes its way to a shelter is scanned upon entry. Unless you and your pet belong to this recovery system, there is no way to identify your pet or to know where it came from. Many animals lose their collars or are removed by those who steal them. Should your pet become stolen, this system also notifies agencies and vet clinics to be on the look out for your pet. Micro-chipping is NOT a luxury....its a necessity. Its a very simple procedure that can be done at the same time your pet receives his or her vaccinations and the cost is minimum. All of our canine are micro-chipped and we highly recommend it!

SO, YOU WANT TO PURHASE A PET FROM A PET STORE?

If you have stumbled upon a very cute dog at your local pet store....here's what you need to know about the puppies who make their way to these pet facilities. Breeders who sell their puppies to pet stores are irresponsible breeders who have difficulty selling their pups to the general public or They can also be private uneducated breeders who don't want to "deal" with their litter of pups that they just HAD to let little Susie watch being born. More than likely, they sold a few and then had pups they just didn't want to "deal with". People always assume that puppies in pet stores come from "Puppy Mills" or "Commercial Breeders". NOT ALWAYS SO! More uneducated, private breeders sell their pups to pet stores than any one else. Unfortunately, we are even seeing Goldendoodles being sold to pet stores from the kinds of breeders mentioned above.
Pet stores scour the nation through newspaper and Internet ads for breeders who are either giving their puppies away or who have very low prices because they know that by marking them up by at least 300%, they'll make their money back and then some.
Pet store owners purchase many of their puppies under false pretenses and present themselves to the breeders as a family seeking to replace a dog that has died or seeking a puppy for their "children", knowing full well that the puppy they just bought will go to their store to sit in glass cages for the general public to view. Many become sick and unhealthy from being shuffled from one pet store to the other, if the store is a chain. Believe it or not, the majority of puppies inside of pet stores are registered with the AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB...the supposed GOD of all Kennel Clubs who has "nothing but responsible" breeders registered with them!!! Hmm! Yeah, right! Another sad fact is those who sold their puppies to the pet stores don't even care who buys them or whether or not they will be taken care of properly. No responsible breeder would ever dare sell their puppies to a pet store or any kind of facility like this. One of the ways a responsible breeder can deter pet stores from contacting them is to NOT bargain with a person who wants the breeder to "lower the price" or "give them a break" in the price. When a potential customer claims they'd "give the puppy a good home, but can't afford much to pay". This is a red flag. If a customer can not afford the price a breeder is asking, most likely they can not afford the dogs' unexpected vet bills either. Most pet stores will ONLY purchase puppies from the above mentioned breeders that are registered with the AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB. This is because they can get TOP DOLLAR for the puppies from people who believe that dogs registered with this kennel club are QUALITY dogs. What amazes me even more is how many people assume that all breeders who register their puppies and their breeding dogs with AKC, are RESPONSIBLE BREEDERS with quality dogs! Where do these AKC registered puppies inside of pet stores and pet shops come from??? If your first answer was "a puppy mill"...you just got an "F" for failure to respond correctly! These so called responsible breeders who sold their puppies to the pet stores and pet shops are private breeders and commercial breeders who register their litters with the AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB, CONTINENTAL KENNEL CLUB and other canine registrant services, who breed to make a quick buck! Yes...many quick bucks can be made when all you do is produce a litter of puppies and six weeks after they are born, sell the entire litter to the pet store. It's very simple! Pet stores across the country buy entire litters and then spread them out across their chain of other stores. It is very sickening. The breeder never has to spend a dime in taking care of the puppies...never has to spend any time or effort either! Any breeder...commercial or private can make many quick bucks in doing this. WE KNOW! WE GET CALLS FROM PET SHOPS AND PET STORES ALL ACROSS THE COUNTRY WANTING OUR PUPPIES and since I began in 1996....I can proudly claim and scream I HAVE NEVER SOLD A SINGLE PUPPY THAT I HAVE CREATED TO A PET SHOP OR A PET STORE! Private breeders who sell their puppies and litters to pet stores and pet shops across the country are the real "puppy mills" and this is exactly what I personally believe a puppy mill to be. The puppy mill is NOT the breeder who spends an arm and a leg on their litters....who has enormous outgoing expenses and who has put in an enormous amount of time with their pups and dogs. I don't care how many dogs a breeder owns....that is NOT WHAT MAKES A BREEDER A PUPPY MILL. Private breeders who dump their litters off at pet stores don't give a rats ass who buys their puppies.....what kind of home their puppies are going to...how long they have to sit being gawked at by passers by through a window...don't care whether or not a pet store or pet shop will take good care of their created pups...all they care about is that they have dumped a litter of 5-12 puppies off and picked up their "pay" check from the pet store. That's fact whether people select to believe it or not! I personally know breeders who do this...don't condone it...don't do it....but know it to be a fact that this practice happens all over the United States on a daily basis.
What you don't know too is that a PET STORE AND PET SHOP don't want anything to do with an older puppy. They also pay very little to the breeder for each puppy....but to the breeder who does this...they'd rather rake in $200 per puppy than pay out more than they know they will take in, by keeping the pups until someone calls them to buy one. They also have less hassle and don't have to pay out any advertising costs. Breeders who dump their pups off at these stores do not have to speak to anyone about the puppies they have created, except the pet store and pet shop they sell to.
Hence, you never know about them until you buy one of their puppies from the store and see their name listed on the pup's registration documents as the breeder.

Post from: Pets Mall

Sizing Up the Ideal Dog

Rest assured, you are not alone. More importantly, there are solutions to your problems.

While there is an abundance of information about these common issues, many dog parent’s still fail in their efforts.

At Canine Kingdom, we know this is not the dog parent’s fault, because the right advice and the most effective products are difficult to find.

For example, studies have shown that when chewing is directed toward objects that are acceptable, less energy is left for objects that are not, such as the leg of your antique dining table. Many dog parents do realize that chew toys help to reduce the amount of chewing on the ‘wrong’ things, such as shoes and fingers. However, many dog parents do not solve chewing problems with toys because they find that either their dogs are not ‘interested’ in the chew toys, or they chew them up in 30 seconds, still ready to take on the rest of the home.

At Canine Kingdom we provide problem-solving products that work, and our customer service team will make sure that you know how to use our products, and are completely satisfied with your results.

Proven training advice coupled with the right tools enables dogs and people to live together in harmony.

And so…Canine Kingdom announces the Top Ten Problems - and provides the Best Products for solving them.

#1 Chewing

KONG

The Kong is the safest, most chew-proof item on the market today and has received the Canine Kingdom Seal of Approval.

Think you know about Kongs? Think again! Many people don’t know the clever ways Kong Toys solve serious chewing problems.

Kongs can be stuffed with delectables – dogs just can’t resist them. If you freeze a stuffed Kong it can take hours for even an avid chewer to get to every tidbit in the Kong. Hours of fulfilling entertainment – hours that don’t include munching on the couch pillows.

Tired dogs are less likely to chew on your new Dolce & Gabbana pumps. The Kong has been designed to entice your dog’s innate prey drive. When you throw a Kong it hits the ground and bounces around unpredictably. Bring out the hunter in your dog. A Kong on a rope is perfect for fun fetching and a proven way to burn up excess energy.

See our article on exactly how to use the Kong Food puzzle in our Protocol Center.

Give your dog a chew toy that is safe and as indestructible as possible. There are so many chew toy products on the market today. Many of them can be dangerous and even fatal. Despite what the manufacturers state on packaging, all chew toys should be inspected regularly for damage and wear. Always choose a chew toy that is appropriately sized for your dog. A toy that is too small can be swallowed and cause choking. Powerful chewers can devour some inappropriate chew toys, possibly resulting in impactions and digestive tract perforations.

#2 Too much energy!

The Long Lead

Most dogs have more energy than their parents would like. Unspent energy can lead to unwanted behaviors such as jumping, chewing, digging, and barking. Exercising your dog on a regular basis is as good for your dog as it is for you. Learn your dog’s optimal exercise level. When your dog is relaxed, he has reached that state.

Many pet parents are limited in their choice of safe exercise areas. Likewise, most dogs do not have a totally reliable recall if they are let loose in an area with many distractions. Using a long lead ensures your dog’s safety yet allows him to burn up energy. Dogs can jump, sniff, run and explore without the restraint of a short leash.

When learning to use a long lead, it is best to start out in quiet, large, tree-less areas. Soon, your dog will learn the distance of his freedom.

Incorporate some sit-stay lessons into your walks. A thinking dog uses up as much energy as a running dog. Toss a Kong a few feet from your dog while in a sit-stay position. Release him to fetch after a few seconds. Treats and verbal praise follow. Great fun for you and your dog and an enjoyable way to teach her an important control lesson.

#3 Pulling on a Leash

Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness

Far too many dog parents forego walking with their dog because of leash pulling. Neck collars, despite their design and material, all put pressure on the dog’s trachea and may cause permanent physical damage. Traditional harnesses, that have leash connections on the top of the harness on the dog’s back, can actually encourage dogs to pull harder because of the opposition reflex. That is the reflex that makes sled dogs do what they do—pull.

The Gentle Leader Easy Walk™ Harness redirects the pressure through the unique front leash attachment. A patent pending martingale closure tightens slightly across the chest and shoulder blades when your dog attempts to pull forward. When your dog slows down and stops pulling, reward him with treats and verbal encouragements.

When training your dog to walk with a loose leash, first, make sure you run out as much energy as possible in your backyard or home. Initially, put the leash on your dog in your home and ‘take your walk’ around the house. Reward him with treats and praise when he walks without leash tension. Gradually move your walks to quiet areas where there are few distractions such as other dogs or critters. Repeatedly reward your dog when he is walking with a loose leash. Increasingly, walk to places where your dog will see or meet other dogs, people or wild animals. Remember to continue the treats and praise. Soon, both you and your dog will enjoy your walks together – without pain or distress to either of you.

The unique design of the Gentle Leader Easy Walk Harness is easy to put on and has easy adjustment buckles to ensure a proper fit.

#4 Barking

Dog Door

‘Nuisance’ barking, caused by loneliness, boredom, stress from being home alone, or ‘commenting’ on the goings on around the house is often relieved with the ability to go in and outside, at will, to a safe and secure enclosed yard.

There are many dog doors to choose from. We chose the Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door, as its unique technology allows your pet to enter and exit safely, without the threat of other animals or people using the door. The Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door uses a small infra-red collar tag that signals the door to unlock for your pet and only your pet. The Staywell Electronic Infra-Red Pet Door locks in both directions preventing young children from leaving the home and other animals from entering or leaving. It runs on batteries so if there is a power outage, the door still works.

Allowing your dog access to the inside as well as outside, combined with a relaxing in-home setting, a digging pit outside, and a NON-citronella bark collar are often successful in stopping barking problems. For this and more information on dogs home alone, don’t miss our E-book "Creating a Better Life for the Home Alone Dog”.

#5 Housetraining

Penthouse Potty

In certain situations, a dog just must have an indoor toilet. Is your dog getting on in age and having ‘mistakes’? Is your little dog sometimes unreliable in his housetraining habits? Do you live in a 6th floor walkup and the thought of a dog walk at 2:00 a.m. is not that appealing? Has a new puppy joined your household?

The Penthouse Potty is the answer to these problem situations and more. Dogs can ‘hold it’ for only so long. So many variables determine how often a dog must eliminate. What is known about dogs is that they do determine where to ‘go’ by their sense of smell. If a dog learns to eliminate in the home on your Oriental rug or on your teak floors, he may very well choose that spot again and again because it has been ‘marked’ with his odor.

Train your dog to go in one place when the need arises – the Penthouse Potty. If you know there will be times when your dog may not get to the outdoors to eliminate, consider the Penthouse Potty. Your dog can happily go to an ‘approved’ area and the rest of your home will stay fresh and clean.

#6 Arthritis

Pet Wellness Bed

There’s no reason for any dog to suffer from the pain of arthritis. Pain can have a tremendous impact on your dog’s quality of life.

A heated dog bed? Absolutely! Heat and Massage make this therapeutic bed the best choice for arthritis pain all year long. Many arthritic dogs show increased signs of pain when the temperatures dip, humidity rises or barometric pressure drops. The plushy loft, the gentle heat and the massage functions of the Pet Wellness Bed provide a comfortable and therapeutic refuge for your dog.

The first thing you notice about our Wellness Bed is the 3" thick orthopedic foam. When your dog plops down for a nap, his body is cushioned, protecting further damage to the joints and bones. The gentle heat relaxes tense muscles that surround achy joints, helping your dog’s pain related stress.

Massage is an effective way to manage arthritis pain. The massage feature of the Wellness Bed can help improve joint movement, relax tense muscles, and stimulate the flow of blood and nutrients to the skin and underlying tissues. What's more, it just feels good, and the relaxation it brings can help break the cycle of pain and stress that often goes along with arthritis The Pet Wellness Bed provides three beneficial features that will enhance your dog’s life – cushiony supportive softness, gentle heat and therapeutic massage.

See your dog’s health care professional to learn about arthritis and forms of treatment and palliative care available today.

#7 Boredom

KongTime

Sometimes, you must leave your dog home alone. Wouldn’t it be great if you— and your dog—could feel good about it? Canine Kingdom introduces KongTime—all day entertainment for the home-alone dog.

Stuff soft foods inside a Kong Toy and what do you have? Magic. Your dog will happily chew and lick the Kong Toy, trying to get out every last morsel. It's fun!

Our clients call KongTime ‘Doggy Daycare in a Box’. It was developed for those times when you will be away from home, and your dog, longer than usual. One food-filled Kong just won’t provide enough quality entertainment for your dog. Wouldn’t it be great if a neighbor came by and gave your dog another food-filled Kong to keep him busy?

KongTime automatically dispenses, at a predetermined time, food-filled Kong Toys while you are away. KongTime entertains your dog and gives your dog something to look forward to while you are away.

#8 Dry Skin

Drinkwell Fountain

Many pet parents are concerned about their dog’s dry skin and the resulting itching and flaking. The causes of a dog’s dry skin, just like ours, are primarily environmental.

In general, skin—ours and our dogs’—is driest in winter, when temperatures and humidity levels plummet. But the reverse may be true if you live in desert regions, where summer temperatures can top 110 degrees and humidity levels sink to 10 percent or less. Central air and heating, wood-burning stoves, space heaters and fireplaces all reduce humidity and dry your skin and your dog’s.

We all know that drinking up to eight glasses of water is recommended for people. Water is essential to all living beings—including our dogs. But, like us, dogs sometimes just don’t drink enough water. Without proper hydration, a dog’s skin, just like ours, gets dry and flaky. How can you entice your dog to drink more water?

In nature, moving water is much fresher than stagnant water. The movement constantly breaks the surface tension of the water and draws oxygen from the air into the water. This process is called aeration and it makes water more appealing to drink. Dogs may be drawn by instinct to moving water for this reason.

Some dogs drink water with gusto. But, others have to be coaxed to take just a sip. Developed by a veterinarian for her kidney compromised cat, the DRINKWELL® PET FOUNTAIN filters and aerates continuously moving water to keep it much fresher than standing bowl water – and much more enticing.

#9 Lost Dogs

Roameo GPS Dog Location System

Few situations can be as terrifying as learning that your dog is lost.

Canine Kingdom recommends that you always have ID tags on your dog's collar and your dog is microchipped. Now that there is a universal system for detecting microchips, there is a much better chance a vet or shelter will find it. Be aware that both tools are passive in finding your lost dog. You are dependent on someone finding, catching, reading your dog's ID, and returning him to you. Many people who find "stray dogs" keep them, assuming their dog parents don't want them.

Now there is a far more reliable way to find a lost dog.

GPS technology now enables you to take an active approach to finding your dog. The RoamEO GPS dog location system tracks your lost dog’s movements on an easy to read hand-held screen. You will know where your dog is immediately if he or she escapes from your care.

Canine Kingdom applauds RoamEO for providing a user friendly, no-hidden-cost-approach to actively find lost dogs. There are no other tools to buy, no set up fees, monthly fees, "find" fees or service charges.

The RoamEO has many features, including the ability to track up to three dogs at the same time. The RoamEO also allows you to set up a safe area for your dog. If he leaves the perimeter the RoamEO alerts you immediately.

And, at Canine Kingdom, we offer the lowest cost available.

#10 Dog Fights!

Premier SprayShield

We speak to so many dog parents who describe frightening incidents where they and their dogs have been attacked by loose, marauding dogs. Do not allow yourself, members of your family, or your dog to become a victim of a dog attack. Take a proactive approach and always carry Premier SprayShield.

Many preparations, such as pepper spray and taser-type devices are sold as protection from attacking or threatening animals. But, many trainers agree that some of these products may actually antagonize aggressive animals and they can cause bodily harm.

Stop an attacking animal in its tracks with this highly effective, safe and humane spray. The citronella formula halts low-to-medium-level aggression from dogs, cats, snakes, raccoons, opossums, etc., without harmful side effects. It also won't injure you, your family or your dog if it accidentally gets sprayed into eyes.

#11 Bonus! Jumping up

FREE!

- Don’t knee or yell at your dog when he greets you with a jump, simply turn away and ignore him until he sits, then slowly greet him, pulling back your greeting if he escalates his excitement.

Want more? Expert advice is available 24/7. For tips, challenges, and tried-and-true solutions, visit us at caninekingdom.com!

Post from: Pets Mall

Top 10 Problems Dog Parents Have