Aquarium Siphon Vacuum

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EHEIM Battery-Operated Sludge Extractor or Python No-Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Kits and Accessories?

Which is better for cleaning a 50 gallon aquarium, 1 doesn't remove any water and just sucks up all particles, and one removes the water and adds it in to when connected to a facet, they both seem really good, just looking for some opinions here of whats better, siphoning or just vacuuming with removing no water.

im not sure what fill aquarium kits is. but from the choices above il go with python. you can just always scrape your tank every once in while to remove build-up and so. python comes in 10, 25, 50, even a 100 feet. make sure you get the right one that will reach your faucet to your tank.

and may i suggest another thing. you can just always get a right size hose from home depot or lowes and just let gravity be your pump....python waste so much water when "vacuming" your tank. if you need more info to feel free to PM me

cheers

Aquarium Vacuum Demonstration


Aquarium Siphon
Acquarium canister filter siphon tube?

The siphon tube that drains out the water of my aquarium is only about half the height of the aquarium. The filter is an external canister filter. Is this effective or should I extend the tubing to reach near the bottom of the tank?

That's perfect, just leave it as it is

hope that helps
Good luck

EB

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Can you believe that the Christmas season is already upon us!!! And I know what some of you are thinking: time to get a larger aquarium!!! Yeah!!!
So you will have to remember, when setting up your new tank that you let it run for at least a day to check that the tank does not leak, and that the equipment all works, and to get the temperature stabilized, then introducing the first fish to try to get the cycle going. However, when moving to a larger tank, you are better off setting up the new tank using as much equipment and water from the old tank as possible, and immediately introducing the old fish to their new tank. Do not get any new fish until the tank is stable. Of course, all these steps are explained in details in the extensive manual that you can download immediately at www.first-aquarium-secrets.com.
Follow these steps when moving your fish to a larger aquarium:
Place the new tank where you want it. Rinse all the new equipment and the new gravel and decorations in cool running tap water to remove any dust or debris that has collected from manufacturing, shipping, or storage. Set up the equipment and get everything ready to go for the new tank.
Drain the old tank by siphoning the water into buckets and net the fish and carefully place them in one of these buckets of water. Make sure that the buckets you are using have no residue from soaps or detergents, to prevent the toxicity of these chemicals from harming your fish.
Scoop the gravel out of the old tank and place it in the new tank, then add the water from your buckets to the new tank, leaving the bucket with the fish in it for later. If this is enough water to get the filter started, do so. You should also take this opportunity to set up your decorations in the new tank. Remember, even the decorations in your tank will contain beneficial bacteria for your biological filter, so feel free to use those as well.
If this is enough water for the fish to swim freely, gently net the fish out of the bucket and place them in the new tank. If this is not enough water for the fish to be able to swim freely, you will want to add fresh dechlorinated tap water to the tank until you have enough water for the fish to be able to swim around. Once you have introduced the fish to the new tank, add the water that they were in to the new tank.
Top off the tank with fresh dechlorinated tap water. Do your best to keep the water you are adding to the tank close to the temperature of the water that is in the tank. This helps to minimize the stress to the fish and the biological filter due to the move. Floating or standing aquarium thermometers are available at most pet stores, and are fairly inexpensive. Also, the average human hand can differentiate between temperatures within 1/2° Fahrenheit (1/4° Celsius), so keeping the temperature close should not be much of a problem. If your water heater runs out of hot water, feel free to let the tank sit while more water is heated.
After you have the new tank filled, let it sit for at least half an hour, then plug in the heater and begin the process of setting the heater to the correct temperature.
Feed sparingly and do not introduce any new fish for at least 4 weeks to make sure the tank stabilizes well. This will give the bacteria for the biological filter time to populate your new filters and will allow the fish a chance to get used to the new tank.
Once your new tank is set up, remember to watch the fish as though you were cycling the tank again. Following the instructions provided above, you are not likely to have to go through much of this process again, however, it is a possibility. Of course, your new tank will still require regular water changes and routine maintenance of the filters, and the same loving care your fish received in their old home.
Of course, all these steps are explained in clear and simple details in the manual for Setting Up your Aquarium, which you will find at www.first-aquarium-secrets.com.
Setting up a new aquarium can be an exciting adventure and a source of fun for the whole familyeven if you have had an aquarium before.
To learn more on how to set up your first aquarium, visit www.first-aquarium-secrets.com
Beginner's Guide to Starting an Aquarium

About the Author:

http://www.first-aquarium-secrets.com

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Are you Ready to Upgrade to a Larger Aquarium This Christmas and Move your Fish to a Healthier and Larger Home???

Siphon Vacuum Cleaner

Air Pressure...~......?

how do the following devices make use of air pressure?

1. siphon for transferring gasoline from a tank
2. fountain pen
3.vacuum cleaner
4. water pump

1. Siphon
A siphon (also spelled syphon) is a continuous tube that allows liquid to drain from a reservoir through an intermediate point that is higher, or lower, than the reservoir, the flow being driven only by the difference in hydrostatic pressure without any need for pumping. It is necessary that the final end of the tube be lower than the liquid surface in the reservoir.

2.Fountain Pen
Fountain pens use a highly fluid ink. They rely on a property called capillarity to draw the ink into and through the feed. Capillarity causes the inner surface of the tubes to attract molecules of ink. These ink molecules, in turn, attract other ink molecules, and the feed fills with ink from the pen’s reservoir.
The feed in a fountain pen also includes a number of air passages that lead to the reservoir. These passages allow air to fill the top of the reservoir as ink is drawn from the bottom. Thus the air pressure inside the pet remains equal to the air pressure outside the pen, and the ink flows easily. If the air pressure inside the ink reservoir is lower than the atmospheric pressure outside, the ink will not reach the point and the pen will fail to write. However, if the air pressure over the ink column becomes greater than the air pressure outside the pen, ink will flood out from the front of the pen. To avoid such flooding, fountain pens are designed with a collector. The collector, which is located near the nib, consists of a series of fins and spaces that provide enough additional room to accommodate forward moving ink.

3. Vacuum Cleaner

A vacuum Cleaner's suction is caused by a difference in air pressure. A pump reduces the pressure inside the tube. Atmospheric pressure then pushes the air through the carpet and into the tube, and so the dust is literally pushed into the bag.

4.Water Pump
A pump displaces a volume by physical or mechanical action. One common misconception about pumps is the thought that they create pressure. Pumps alone do not create pressure they only displace fluid causing a flow. Adding resistance to flow causes pressure.

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Soon spring will be here and so will the annual chore of opening your swimming pool. Planning ahead can make the job much easier. ThereÂ’s nothing worse than realizing your short one bag of shock when youÂ’re in the middle of prepping the pool. So letÂ’s first make a list of chemicals that you might need.

There will be different needs depending on the type of pool you own, so this list is general. Refer to your pool and pump instructions for additional information.

  • Liquid or powdered Shock
  • Chlorine powder or tablets
  • Bromine
  • pH increase or pH decrease
  • Sanitizing cartridge for cartridge filters
  • A test kit or bottle of test strips to test pH and chlorine levels

Before you run off to your local pool supply store for chemicals, now would be the time to check all of your hoses, clamps, skimmer baskets, gaskets and o-rings. If any of the parts look like they need replacing, take them with you to the pool supply store. ItÂ’s a lot easier to match replacement parts if you have the old part with you.

Now that you have the easy part finished, itÂ’s time to get to work. The first thing required is to get the cover off. Enlist some help for this, as you want to avoid getting any top water into the pool water. If you have an above ground pool, siphon the water off with a hose. If you have an in-ground pool you will need to use a sump pump to remove the top water.

To get a good siphon started, hook up the hose to the spigot and put the other end of the hose into the top water. Turn the hose on for a minute or so to fill it. Next crimp the hose a foot or two away from the faucet, and with your other hand, disconnect the hose from the spigot. Position the hose at a downspout drain to discharge then let go of the crimp. The water will reverse and start to drain.

Once you have the water cleared, use a leaf rake to remove as many leaves and twigs as possible. Next, remove your cover weights or springs. At this time a few people positioned around the pool will help to keep the cover out of the water. Try to fold your cover like a blanket keeping the crud in the middle then remove the cover. You need to scrub the cover thoroughly and properly dry for summer storage.

Now itÂ’s time to attach all the pump hoses. Remember to lube plugs, fittings, valves and o-rings with petroleum jelly. Also be sure to remove any freeze plugs that were used to cover the hose openings. You will most likely need to add water to the pool. It should be filled to the skimmer half way point.

At this point you should start re-circulating the water and check for any leaks around the pump and hoses. Once your pool is leak and drip free, skim off as much floating debris as you can with your skimmer net. Open all your valves to flood the hoses and prime the pool pump. Most manufacturers recommend constantly recirculating the pool water for at least three days. Any crud and debris on the sides and bottom of the pool will need to be scrubbed off. Use the broom attachment of your pool vacuum for this.

After all debris has been removed and the pool has been scrubbed, check your filter for cleaning. Some pumps have removable filters; others are back-flushed, so clean as directed. Once the filter is cleaned, you can now super shock the water as per your manufacturerÂ’s instructions. If you start with green water, you will need a lot more shock. It may take a few days of recirculation to clear the water. Once the water has cleared, test your water or take a sample to your pool supply store and have it analyzed. Adjust the water as required and keep recirculating. All that is left to do now is to wait for the water to warm up so you can start enjoying your pool.

Gregory Fort is a partner with the company Pool-Pockets, manufacturers of Pool-Pockets - Your pool toy storage solution. http://www.pool-pockets.com