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Dog behavior can be difficult to understand, especially for pet owners. Some dogs will chase each other all over the street, sniff each other’s bottoms, and then do a few nasty things that may or may not result in a litter of pups. Other dogs will growl at other dogs, bare their teeth, and then snap at other dogs. The latter behavior can be disconcerting to pet owners who are fond of walking their dogs, but who are afraid of alienating themselves from other pet owners who have less aggressive canines.

Dog breeders and owners describe this canine-canine war as dog aggression, which is technically a dog’s intent to do harm to another dog. Dog snap at other dogs is only one display of aggression, and it comes in the category of loud barking and growling at other dogs. Dogs show aggression not so much because they want to hurt another dog, but because they are defending themselves from potential harm. Such defense tactics are undertaken by dogs to gain a higher status over a potential rival, or simply because of built in instincts or traits that make them feel that they are dominant versus other dogs. Some dogs may also develop hormonal imbalance, prompting them to exercise dominance over other dogs by showing dog aggression.

Aggression is common, although some breeds such as bulls and terriers are more likely to display aggression as they age. If a dog starts off life as an abused or attacked pup, then he may be fearful of other dogs and thus exercise defense-based aggression or snap at other dogs. In particular, dogs can be aggressive toward dogs or objects that resemble anything that threatened or attacked them in the past. If your dog snap at other dogs, therefore, may simply be a sign that your dog is defending his or her territory, or is remembering something in his or her past.

If your dog continues to snap at other dogs, then you might want to take a look at the following tips to help you control your dog. If all else fails, take your dog to the vet or a canine behavior specialist for more information on how he or she can be made less aggressive or harmful.

- When dogs lack exercise, they can have a lot of pent up energy, and can actually be more emotionally and mentally unstable. Take your dog out often and make him or her exercise by jogging together, or by playing fetch in the park. This can allow your dog to use up all the energy that he or she has, giving him or her less time and resources to snap at other dogs.

- If you have a puppy, discipline him or her and start him or her on a disciplined life without abusing him or her. A well-disciplined dog is less likely to do harm, and certainly less likely to snap at other dogs.

- If you prefer a dog that is docile and quiet, then you might want to select a breed beforehand that is not prone to snap at other dogs or other forms of dog aggression. Choose toy dogs or retrievers if you have little time to undertake any disciplinary measures. If you are an experienced breeder or trainer, however, then go for terriers and bulls, but be sure to instill discipline early.

- Act as a dominant owner. If a dog senses that he or she is dominant in your house, or the seeming owner of it, then it can turn itself into the alpha dog and establish itself as the leader of your pack. It can then think that it has the license to snap at other dogs and display aggression.

- As much as possible, keep only one dog at home. The more dogs you have, the more defensive your dog will become, and the more likely he or she is to display aggressive behavior or snap at other dogs.

If you really want to stop your dog to snap at other dogs at the shortest possible time, you need a dog obedience training to help you transform you dog’s behavior problems. Did you know that you can put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s behavior problems by using techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover dog obedience training secrets to stop your dog’s behavior problems visit Dogs' Corner

To know more about Pets visit All About Pets

Dogs are certainly among man's best friends. However, in some circumstances, these animals also have the potential to be people's and other animals' worst enemy. As canines, dogs are equipped with sharp teeth and attacking techniques that make them dangerous when provoked and you have to deal with dogs’ aggression.

Dogs occasionally attack people and other dogs or animals. You may wonder what makes dogs behave violently. In truth, dogs are peace-loving and do not easily turn aggressive, unless provoked. Because dogs' mode of communications and concepts are different from man's and from other animals', there are some actions that maybe perceived by them as aggression or dogs’ aggression.

It is instinct of any living animal, people included, to protect itself when there is imminent danger. Remember that dogs just turn aggressive whenever they feel like they are threatened. And beware of dogs’ aggression, because dogs are truly destructive and rowdy when they get really angry.

Dogs' aggressive behavior

There are several types of aggression that influence dogs. Such dog’s aggressions are different and nature and are acquired by the dogs during different situations. To be able to learn how to properly and effectively handle dogs' aggression, it would be important if you would understand the nature of dogs' aggression.

The first type of dogs’ aggression is dominance aggression. This type is exhibited when the dog feels like he is the dominant organism in the area. This is not common to dogs, but studies suggest that this type of aggressive behavior is relative to the particular breed of dogs. Of course, fighting dogs are more likely to feel dominant.

If the dogs feel that someone, or some other animal, is threatening this sense of dominance, he would likely stage an attack. Several of your actions, like raising hands, clapping or tapping its head, could be interpreted by the dog as breaching its dominance or trigger dogs’ aggression, so beware.

The other type of dogs’ aggression is protective in nature. If the dog feels like you would attack it, it would surely retaliate in defense. The same goes for fear-motivated dogs’ aggression. If there is fear, the dog would not think and act naturally, making it become jittery and become aggressive.

There is a territorial sense in the dog, so if someone or some other animal intrudes its territories, the dog would turn aggressive. Dogs’ aggression could also be redirected. If the animal becomes mad at someone, but could not possibly attack him, the dog could redirect his aggression into someone else.

Dealing with the dogs' aggressive behavior

Now that you have a brief but concise background about the nature and possible causes of dogs’ aggression, you now understand what and how dogs could turn rowdy and dangerous. Make sure you try not to arouse feeling of threat or fear into the dog so it would not behave aggressively.

For sure, you now know some of your mannerisms and actions that could make your dog behave aggressively. Avoid doing those actions when the dog is around to prevent any possible attack or dogs’ aggression.

If you could not help the aggressive behavior, it would be better to seek professional help for dogs’ aggression so your dog could not harm anyone else. Prior to doing so, confine your dog inside a secluded place or a cage. Never let it loose free because it might suddenly attack or bite bystanders and other animals.

Do not punish the dog because doing so would only make the animal behave more aggressively. Because you are the smarter between the two of you, your dog and yourself, be more understanding and patient.

Do you want to know how to curb your dog’s aggressiveness? Put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog behavior problems and slash your dog obedience training time in half by using techniques that give you immediate results. Stop your dog’s aggression visit Dogs' Corner

To know more about pets visit All About Pets

Dogs are social animals, and a friendly dog in a stressful situation would never attack or bite. However, many cases of individuals bitten by dogs belie this. Thus, it is important to know how to prevent dogs from biting.

If you want to own a dog or already own one and you want to prevent dogs from biting anyone, there are two things you need to remember: first, you have to train your dog to be friendly; and second, you have to avoid putting him in stressful situations.

Dogs feel stressed by unfamiliar objects, people or places, or by unpredictable behavior. However, the degree of unfamiliarity and unpredictability is different from dog to dog. In a crowd, some dogs are friendly to strangers while others are not. What spells the difference between these dogs isn’t breed but how well they were raised. Thus, you can prevent dogs from biting if you properly train your dog.

How to prevent dogs from biting

Although there is no guarantee that your dog will never attack or bite anyone, these six tips will significantly reduce the risks of your dog attacking or biting someone:

1. Familiarity with people and environment will help you to prevent dogs from biting. Create positive and pleasant encounters for your dog with objects, people and places within the first 8 to 16 weeks of his life, especially with those he would likely encounter during his lifetime. To prevent dogs from biting introduce them immediately to various kinds of objects in your house and outside your house (e.g. your vacuum cleaner), to various kinds of people (e.g. the postman), and to various kinds of environments (e.g. your car). Introduce him also to grooming, to the vet, and to other animals, especially other dogs. Some dogs don’t think they’re dogs. You don’t want your dog to have an identity crisis, do you?

2. Familiarize dogs to being touched to prevent dogs from biting as early as possible but supervise dogs when they are with young children as much as possible. It is better your dog realizes early on that you and others mean no harm when you hold him since you can’t avoid touching him or him being touched by other people, especially when he has to be groomed or to be brought to the vet. However, how he is held is important to him. If he is held improperly, as most young children would hold him, he becomes terrified of being touched.

3. Another tip to prevent dogs from biting is to create a home for dogs where they can find peace, safety and security and teach others to respect it. Your dog would encounter at least several stressful situations in his lifetime and that’s all but normal in a dog’s life. However, if dogs has a haven to go home to, it will prevent dogs from biting, as they would more likely dash to their dog house rather than attack.

4. Tie your dog when walking him in public but not more than 8 hours in one place. Dogs tend to get temperamental and aggressive when tied since they experience barrier frustration. They are more likely to attack and bite when approached since it seems to them their territory is being intruded and, because they cannot flee, they fight the intruder. However, when walking your dog, he is better on than off a leash. Supervised dogs are less likely to attack and bite, and also you can keep a better eye on them with a leash and can prevent dogs from biting if they encounter a stressful situation.

5. Another way to prevent dogs from biting is to teach dogs with proper and productive behavior. Though it is highly recommended to enroll your dog, including your family, in a home obedience class, it is just as advisable to consistently reinforce correct and appropriate behavior. Your dog can’t tell the difference between rough-play and real-life situations so don’t show or teach him aggressive behavior, like chasing after or attacking others even for fun. If he exhibits aggressive behavior towards other people or animals, like growling when someone comes too close to his food bowl, seek professional help. It is important to stop dogs biting and aggressive behavior as early as possible.

It’s not all that difficult to prevent dogs from biting and raise them to be friendly, especially if you see dogs as another being that deserves love and attention as much as anyone else does, as much as you do. Most often than not, dogs that attack and bite are neglected dogs. So always remember that behind a good dog is a good pet owner.

If you really want to prevent dogs from biting anyone, you need a dog obedience training to help you transform you dog’s behavior problems at the shortest possible time. Did you know that you can put an end to the stress and annoyance of your dog’s behavior problems by using techniques that will give you immediate results? Discover dog obedience training secrets to stop your dog’s behavior problems visit Dogs' Corner

To know more about Pets visit All About Pets

Hunting Dogs working in the Field are usually in Top Physical Form

Despite their athletic nature, hunting dogs can be overweight dogs and can fall into a sedentary nature if not provided with enough exercise. Without an exercise program, these otherwise fit, energetic breeds can become lazy and inactive.

An estimated 40% of dogs are considered to be overweight or obese. The most common cause of overweight dogs is obvious, their caloric intake is greater than what is burned off in a day. Excess calories turn into fat, and over time this causes the dog to gain weight.

Hunting dogs fed a high calorie, protein dense food for athletic dogs are at particular risk for canine obesity, as their exercise level must be kept high in order to use up the calories that they are being fed. A dog being fed a high performance diet must adhere to strict exercise regimen, in order to prevent excessive weight gain. Fat dogs out hunting is not a pretty sight!

Veterinarians use a standardized Body Condition Score system to categorize overweight dogs. The scoring system runs from 1-9, with one being extremely thin, and 9 being morbidly obese.

As a general rule, the An ideal range for the body condition score for dogs is between a 4 and 5.

At a Body Condition Score (BCS) of 4 and 5, the dog should have ribs that can be easily felt under the skin, but not seen. The dogs should have a waist (a narrowing of their width behind the ribcage), as well as an abdomen that is tucked when seen from the side.

Dogs with a BCS of 6 and 7 are too heavy. Their ribs may be just barely felt under the skin.

Instead of a waist, they are flat from ribs to hindquarters. Overweight dogs in this category should have their exercise level increased, and caloric intake decreased. With a BCS of 8 or 9 they are considered morbidly obese or are commonly called fat dogs.

Their ribs cannot be felt over the skin, and have areas of fat deposits over their back, base of the tail, chest, neck or legs. Instead of a waist, they have an abdominal bulge and are wider in the abdomen than in the hips.

Their abdomens may appear distended and enlarged, and hang below the level of the ribcage. These dogs should be evaluated by a veterinarian for underlying health problems, as well as begin a weight reduction program under veterinary supervision.

Beware of Diabetes in dogs and other health ailments

Overweight dogs at this level are at risk for a variety of health problems: severe joint, muscle and ligament problems, as well as respiratory and cardiac complications. Diabetes in dogs is also a threat.

It is important to remember that just because your dog was bred for an athletic lifestyle, his energy level and fitness depend on you.

Keep your dog fit, healthy and not overweight. Dogs can then be assured good health and hopefully a long life.

Now for underweight dogs

Hunting dogs are athletes. But, sometimes you can have an underweight dog. Their excellent work ethic and eager-to-please spirit make them the ideal partner for a variety of athletic endeavors.

Like human athletes, the nutritional requirements for active dogs must be adjusted to meet their unique needs.

Due to their high activity levels and the strain placed on their body during hunts and trails, performance and hunting dogs require a superior level of nutrients and calories than the average house dog.

It is not uncommon for hunting dogs to be on the thin side, and often a healthy, athletic hunter, may seem like an underweight dog compared to the same dog kept as just a pet.

However, it is important to access your dog's nutritional requirements, and balance them with the proper diet to ensure optimum health and best performance.

Veterinarians use a standardized Body Condition Score (BCS) system to evaluate the condition of a dogs overall health and ideal weight. The BCS scale is from 1-9, with 1 being malnourished and 9 being morbidly obese.

As a general rule, the "ideal" range for the body condition score for dogs is between a 4 and 5.

At this level, the dog should have ribs that can be easily felt under the skin, but not seen.

The dogs should have a waist (a narrowing of their width behind the ribcage), as well as an abdomen that is "tucked up" when seen from the side.

In highly active, performance dogs, a BCS of 3 may be considered a healthy weight. These dogs have a high percentage of lean body mass, with ribs that can be slightly seen under the skin, and obviously felt. The very tips of their spine or pelvis bones may be discernible, and they have a waist.

Dogs with a body condition score of a 1 to 2 are underweight, and their diets and or performance demands must be adjusted. In these dogs, their ribs, hip, pelvic and backbones can all be clearly seen, and a loss of muscle mass is evident.

Dogs with a body condition score of 3 or less should be evaluated for possible diet changes, to provide more balanced, high-calorie nutrition for the dog. In dogs that are well fed, but score persistently low on the BCS system, a veterinarian should be consulted to check for possible underlying medical problems, such as internal parasites that may be preventing the pet from absorbing the nutrients from his food.

Statistics show the most bitten member of American society are children under the age of 12 and most dog bites causing serious injury involve medium to large sized dogs with children under the age of 5. The dog is usually known to the child or is the family's pet.

To understand how these bites occur, what causes them and how to prevent them, a little education in the nature of dogs and the nature of small children will help shed some light on these aggressive behaviours.

A dog's temperament is first inherited (this is deeply ingrained responses to the world surrounding them and is unchangeable), and then modified by events and/or proper training in his life.

Genetics: Some breeds and certain bloodlines within breeds are friendlier, more suited to living in a family environment, more tolerant with children and more adaptable to training. Most of their actions are instinctive. By default, a dog will react to situations according to what his instincts tell him unless these instincts are overridden by the consistent training and socialization he needs to receive from his owner throughout his life.

Some unscrupulous breeders who sometimes intentionally breed dogs without adequate knowledge of dog behaviour may use unsuitable dogs (i.e. those with poor temperaments) for breeding. These are dogs that are mentally unpredictable or have illness or physical defects that affect their behaviour.

A dog's basic temperament, instincts and training have the biggest effects on how that dog reacts to the world around him and his levels of tolerance. Therefore, a responsible breeder should always put emphasis on good temperament when selecting breeding stock.

Past events & experiences with children: If your dog has had several painful or frightening encounters in the past with children, then he is probably going to be apprehensive around children, sometimes to the point of being aggressive. On the other hand, a well-socialised dog from an early age takes stressful and unusual situations in his own stride. Such dogs tend to be much less fearful of a busy family environment with noisy and unpredictable children around.

Here is one of the most commonly reported scenarios in a bite case:

A very young child sees a pretty dog he'd like to pet. The dog may not want to be petted. The dog's first instinctive reaction is to show his displeasure by giving a warning -- growling. The growl means that something more unpleasant will follow if the warning isn't heeded.

Almost any dog will bite under the right circumstances.

A dog is an animal whose behaviour isn't the same as humans and can't always be predicted with 100 percent accuracy, no matter how friendly or reliable he is.

The type and number of warnings that a dog gives out can vary, few dogs actually will strike without giving some form of indication beforehand. When faced with a child in this situation, normally many dogs would just walk away. Walking away can be considered a form of warning.

If the child keeps trying to pet the dog, a sterner warning, usually a growl, will ensue. Other types of warnings can be more subtle - for instance, a stiffening of the body and showing of its teeth. Small children may not recognise this as a form of warning or understand what a growl means even though it may be quite obvious to an adult.

Dogs instinctively set up an invisible "fight or flight" boundary around themselves as their safety zone. The size of this boundary depends on his level of confidence and tolerance. A fearful dog will give itself a wider area than a more stable one.

When someone whom the dog perceives as threatening invades his area, the dog reacts either by running away or staying put to fight and defend itself no matter how afraid it might be. Some dogs will choose to fight first, rather than run.

A small child who keeps petting or hugging a dog has already intruded well within the dog's flight or fight boundary. If the dog's attempts to warn the child fail, the dog (in his mind) has no other recourse -- he bites. This is a perfectly acceptable and instinctive behaviour to the dog. He is responding to what he perceives as a threat and is doing what his instincts tell him to.

Dogs do not think in the same way as humans do. A child's innocent action, petting the dog, can often be provocation for a bite.

Don't forget dogs have predatory instincts. Running, playing, screaming kids can trigger an instinctive predator-prey reaction in some dogs. Children who wrestle with dogs unknowingly encourage them to use their teeth and provoke a bite. Dogs equate this kind of play with littermates or other dogs where using teeth is allowed. Startling a sleeping dog or petting him when he's eating can also bring about the same dangerous reaction from the dog.

Guidelines for families who already have a dog or are thinking of getting a dog for the children and what can be done to prevent dogs from attacking children:
* Take your time when looking for a dog. Research, do your homework, learn the differences in the various breeds and choose one that best suits your lifestyle and experience.

* Be honest with yourself about the amount of time and work you're willing to invest in a dog. If you don't have time to raise and train the dog properly, don't get one.

* Consider postponing the purchase of a dog, especially a large one, until your children are at least 6 years old.

* Never leave any child under the age of 12 unattended with any dog or puppy. So keep supervision a strict rule in your household.

* Babies and toddlers should always be kept higher than the dog and keep your young children off the floor when there is a dog in the same room. This is to make sure that the dog (that sees the world in hierarchy) sees your children as a leader and not a littermate which it will boss around, push over, growl at and even bite.

* Educate and involve your children in your dog's care even if they are small tasks - for example you child can instruct the dog to sit before you put the food bowl down, help brush and groom the dog with you holding the collar, attach 2 leashes to your dog so that you child can hold onto one too. This level of involvement from an early stage will help the dog build a positive association with your children.

* Avoid giving your dog items that it can get possessive over with children around such as pig's ears, smoked bones, rawhide etc. It is very important to rain your dog to allow things to be taken away from his mouth by trading higher value treats for the item first.

* Obedience training and socialization are an absolute must for a dog that will be spending time with children. Remember that a dog will act according to his instincts if he doesn't receive proper training or if that training isn't kept up through regular practice. The dog needs to be taught to obey commands under all conditions no matter how distracting. Just as responding to the command to "come" could save the dog's life someday, an immediate response to the command "leave it!" could save a child from serious injury.

* Children need to be taught how to be respectful to dogs. They need to learn what kinds of games are appropriate, how to touch the dog properly, how to interpret the dog's body language and when the dog is not to be disturbed. Avoid wrestling, spanking, kicking, ear pulling, pony-riding, tug of war, fur grabbing, toy hitting, rough play and chasing.

* Telling the toddler to stay away from the dog just isn't enough! Your children may be too young to understand, so it will be up to you to physically supervise them and protect them from potential harm. Remember that young children do not recognise when they may be in trouble. Adult supervision around children and dogs is absolutely critical. Small children should never, ever be left alone with any dog, no matter how reliable the dog has been before.

* Buy your dog from a reputable, responsible breeder who puts priority on good temperament and health and consistently produces dogs that excel in those areas. Choose a breeder who's experienced and willing to guide and advise you about care and training throughout the dog's life.

* Teach your children how to behave correctly and safely around dogs and to respect them. In order to promote a healthy relationship between your dog and your children, educate your children about the way they should treat a dog - for example dogs should be petted softly, stay away from food dishes, toys and bones and not to startle the dog especially when it's sleeping.

* Remember that what your dog tolerates from your own children may not be tolerated from someone else's. You need to take extra safety precautions when other children visit and make sure that the children obey your ground rules.

Human beings are bound by certain social rules and etiquettes. Dogs are too, however, their rules are entirely different from our rules. For example, it is rare that one person meets another person and within seconds begins a violent fight. This behavior, however, is very common with our canine friends. Introducing two dogs in public is an art and an exercise in training and control. You must be prepared if you are going to avoid not only dog fights, but if you are to steer clear of dog illnesses and other problems when introducing two dogs.

When I have my dogs in public the first rule I live by is ‘assume the worst’. What I mean by this is that I assume that most other dogs out there are ill-behaved and not dog friendly. I know this sounds extreme and perhaps rude but honestly, am I that far off? If you assume this position you will be correct a majority of the time. Most dogs in public are poorly trained and poorly socialized and shouldn’t be counted on to automatically get along with your dog.

So how do you go about introducing two dogs with such assumptions? The short answer is, I don’t. When I am in public, generally speaking, I keep my dogs separate from other dogs I encounter. Do I know if the approaching dog is current with his shots, do I know if the other dog is dog aggressive? The answer is no. Why would I introduce my dog into such an unknown situation where he could get injured from a fight or sick from an illness?

The next assumption I typically make is ‘assume the other dog owner knows nothing about dogs’. When I approach another dog owner on the street or in a park I often find that they are eager to have their dog meet both my dog and me. I often hear comforting words such as, “Oh, he’s fine with other dogs,” or, “It’s ok, he’s friendly.” Well the truth is that maybe their dog has been friendly with a few dogs but who is to say that their dog will be friendly with my dog? I was once walking with a client and their dog down a path in the woods when along came a beautiful Airedale Terrier. As we approached the owner of the terrier called out, “He’s friendly!” following which the dog immediately proceeded to lunge at the leash while barking quite aggressively, obviously looking for a fight. Both I and my client’s dog barely missed being bit as the other owner was nearly pulled over. Ever since this experience, and many similar ones, I have realized that I can’t trust the judgment of other dog owners.

As a result of this style of thinking I religiously avoid dog parks. They are the bane of the dog world and should be avoided at all costs. They are a recipe for disease and fighting. You would be wise to avoid these settings.

Am I being too much of an extremist? No, I don’t think so. In doing this I am almost guaranteeing a safe outing everywhere I go. You may be asking, “But what about socialization? Shouldn’t my dog learn to get along with other dogs?” The answer is yes, but only under controlled settings.

I am very careful about the children that my young daughter meets. I try to avoid having her meet kids who are bullies or sick. Why wouldn’t I do the same for my dog? Whenever I allow my dogs to meet new dogs I do so only when the situation is controlled.

So what is a controlled situation? It could be a variety of settings, but typically a controlled situation is one where I am familiar with the other dog owner, familiar with the other dog and feel that said owner can control said dog. A controlled situation finds both dogs on leash and under control. When introducing two dogs I am always confident that I can control my dog so I need to make sure I partner up with someone else who can also control their dog. With all of these ducks in a row I am ready to introduce my dog to the other dog.

As I said, both dogs are on leash so the first step is allowing the other dogs to be near each other to see initial reactions. I will have my dog about 10 feet from the other dog. If either of the two begins to show aggression I know that maybe this is not a potential friendship. If they are okay at this distance I proceed. One dog remains stationary, preferably in the ‘sit’ command, while the other dog is walked by at a distance of 5-6 feet. The moving dog is then asked to sit while the other walks 5-6 away. Everybody still okay? Good, let’s keep going. Now I put my dog in the heel position on my left hand side while the other owner puts her dog on her left hand side. From here we walk past each other head on. By walking head on with our dogs on our left hand sides and under control the dogs are still separated by our bodies and still haven’t come in contact with each other. At this point, however, each dog has seen the other from a variety of angles and from a variety of potentially threatening and non-threatening positions. If they are still okay you can keep going. Obviously if they have shown aggression at any point you should stop the session.

The next step is the actual introduction. Each owner should approach the other, each dog should be preferably in the heel position. At about 3-4 feet from each other the owners should have their dogs sit by their sides. If everyone is still all right the owners should release the dogs from the sit position and slowly allow the dogs to start sniffing. After a few seconds each owner leads his or her dog away from each other and walks in the opposite direction. Do a U-turn and return to each others proximity. Come back to a halt again 3-4 feet away from each other and repeat the process. Do this several times, each time allowing the dogs to sniff each other for a bit longer period. At this stage it is important to look for tell-tale signs. If the hair on the back of one dog goes straight up lead that dog away and go even slower with the introductions. Watch for other signs such as the lips being lifted, growling, or other very tense behavior.

It is important to keep your dogs on leash. If a fight were to break out both owners could immediately drag each dog apart from each other. If when you introduce two dogs like this and everyone is still okay you can gradually give the dogs more and more freedom and allow them to play even more.

As with all dog training, use common sense. Watch for signs in your dog. Introducing two dogs can be fun, but you must always exercise caution.

Ever noticed the sniffy hauteur with which purebred dog owners appraise mixed breed dogs? You can almost see them flinch as their condescending eye roves across the form of the objectionable mutt while they grudgingly concede that perhaps their refined canine specimen and that pollutant mutt do indeed belong to the same species! In fact you need only trawl various online dog forums to experience firsthand just how contentious the issue of mutt versus purebred really is. Yet much as purebred dog owners may put down the humble mutt or mixed breed dog the strange thing is:

Purebred Dogs Are Merely Strain-Refined Mutts!

Doberman Pinscher: The Doberman Pinscher dog breed was the brainchild of door-to-door tax collector Herr Louis Doberman. Whether Herr Doberman developed this dog breed as enforcer or protector has never been truly established but one aspect that is not in contention is the fact that his was an unenviable profession! It is well documented that since biblical times the tax collector has been much reviled; even today the tax collector is the subject of scorn and disgust. If you truly want to belabor the point, the next time you are at a social gathering, casually mention that you work for the IRS and watch the little-witnessed phenomenon of how so many can disappear so quickly!

However back to Herr Doberman and his dangerous profession; tired of being pushed about and quite possibly being set upon by irate tax payers, poor Herr Doberman came up with the novel yet economic solution of developing a dog breed that would be both enforcer and protector! The "ingredients" for his new dog breed included the following: Rottweiler; German Pinscher; Greyhound and the Manchester Terrier. Though some wishful fanciers contend that the German Shepherd dog was also involved in the genetic compilation of the Doberman Pinscher, this is highly unlikely since the development of the German Shepherd occurred a little later than that of the Doberman Pinscher.

The early form of the Doberman Pinscher dog was not the sleek lean machine that epitomizes the breed today, but it was a heavier-boned dog somewhat more similar in appearance to the Rottweiler dog breed. Subsequent tweaks by later breeders eventually resulted with the sleek contemporary dog that defines the modern Doberman Pinscher. The point of note here is that the Doberman Pinscher, a well-known dog breed that is officially recognized by countless of International Kennels such as the AKC, was a crossbreed developed from various other dog breeds before it attained the holy-grail status of purebred!

Verdict: The Doberman Pinscher, like all the other so-called purebred dogs is nothing more than a strain refined mutt. Sniff! What can I say…these pesky mongrels are everywhere, most of them disguising themselves as well-established purebreds!

Designer/Hybrid Dogs

Though the Labradoodle is widely accredited as the crossbreed dog that set the whole designer-dog movement rolling along at a good clip, the truth of the matter is that other well established crossbreeds already existed. One such crossbreed or so-called designer dog is the Cockerpoo (Cockapoo), a cross between the American Cocker Spaniel and a Miniature Poodle. The Cockerpoo has been in existence since the 1960s (in contrast to the Labradoodle which was developed in the 1980s). The Cockerpoo is currently so well established in North America that there is a strong movement to consolidate a breeding standard.

These days "Oodles" or "Poos" (Poodle hybrids) are practically everywhere in North America for the simple reason they translate into mega bucks. Though the Labradoodle (perhaps the best known Poodle derivative) was developed with a utilitarian purpose in mind, most designer dogs have no other function than to propel a burgeoning and lucrative market for these hybrid dogs; as it so happens, backyard breeders very quickly recognized the enormous profits to be had from designer dogs.

To date the designer dog market is flourishing, strong evidence that people are quite willing to shell out mega bucks so as to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. And perhaps you've noticed, nobody refers to these mutts as well…mutts, for the simple reason crossbreeds do not satisfy people's sniff factor! (Sniff Factor defines the human tendency to snobbishness; in earlier times the upper classes were predisposed to strolling about with their noses pointed skywards as an expression of their obvious class superiority (as though reaching for air unpolluted by the masses!) Calling a mongrel a designer dog is certain to guarantee a far better price than if the animal were addressed as a crossbreed.

The unfortunate fallout of this whole designer dog issue, is that there're now many more dogs in shelters and rescues, as well as dogs being euthanized, because of unethical breeders, who without regard to genetics, breed thousands of these dogs every year in a bid to capitalize on the public's ignorance and insatiable appetite for "exclusive" or "limited" dogs.

So how did this designer dog brouhaha really begin?

Good Intentions Open Pandora's Box

Sometime during the 1980s, Wally Conron, the breeding manager for the Royal Guide Dog Association of Australia embarked on a quest to develop a non-allergenic guide dog for a visually impaired client whose husband happened to be allergic to common dog fur. Conron settled on the standard Poodle as the ideal cross with the already established Labradors in use at their center, for the simple fact that the Poodle,s as a highly trainable working dog with tightly curled coat, constituted a the best-fit match.

After two years of trials including 33 successive disappointment runs, Wally Conron hit pay dirt! A cross mating between one of their most prized Labradors and a Poodle specimen resulted in a litter of 3 non-allergenic puppies. Sultan the 1st ever Labradoodle destined for guide-dog greatness was introduced to his new owner amidst great fanfare. The bonding was a great success and Conron was confident that the remaining two puppies would quickly be snapped up; after all, the center at which he worked had a 6-month backlog of requests from people hoping to foster a dog. But he miscalculated; nobody it seemed wanted a dog that was associated with the dirty word crossbreed.

As eight weeks rolled by, the remaining two pups still hadn't found homes and the critical-period window in which they needed to bond with a new owner and thus become successful guide dogs was closing fast. Out of sheer frustration Wally Conron decided to call his new dog breed the Labradoodle and thenceforth stopped referring to them as crossbreeds. That was the eureka moment he had been waiting for (evidence of the sniff factor in play again)!

Within weeks, requests for this new "miracle dog" inundated the center…the rest as the saying goes, was history! Other than the Labradoodle, few designer dogs have been developed for utilitarian purposes and in fact for the most part new breeds are introduced for purely cosmetic purposes. Having said that though, it would be remiss not to acknowledge the fact that some new dog breeds are currently being developed to address the all pervasive problem of genetic disease in the canine; especially in the more popular breeds.

Some other well-established crossbreeds are the Bull Boxer which is a cross between the Boxer and the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. The Bull Boxer is said to be a more affable dog, especially towards other pets, than the Staffordshire Bull Terrier and is also reputed to be less inclined to exhibit the immature behaviorisms characteristic of the Boxer. By and large though, the substantial prevalence of the designer-dog set is to be found firmly within the realm of Poodle mixes. Such Poodle mixes usually go by names, which if not exactly flattering, are to say the least, colorful:

1. Doxiepoo (Dachshund Poodle Mix)

2. Papipoo (Papillon Poodle Mix)

3. Goldendoodle (Golden Retriever Poodle Mix)

4. Jack-A-Poo (Jack Russell Terrier Poodle Mix)

5. Irish Doodle (Irish Setter Poodle Mix) to name but a few.

Verdict: Sniff! These dogs may go under the guise of designer dog…but let's be honest, they are no more than glorified mutts!

The Humble Yet Ubiquitous Mutt

So where does the lowly mutt fit in this picture of brave new doggy world; that is to say, other than bearing the brunt of the purebred afficionado's scorn! Well as I have amply illustrated in the paragraphs above, all dog breeds are essentially mixed breeds even the purebreds. Purebred dogs are so entitled because over several generations they have been specifically bred for selective traits. But therein lies their Achilles' heel or weakness. Due to such selective-trait breeding, purebred dogs have an inherently high prevalence of genetic disease.

A classic example illustrating some of the problems encountered in trait-selective breeding can be found in the history of the Dalmatian. Breeding for the sharply-defined spot trait unintentionally also led to selective breeding for an abnormal uric acid gene (case of gene linkage). The result was that the Dalmatian dog breed was dogged (no pun intended) with hereditary urine stone disease. In an attempt to rectify the problem yet retain the desired spot pattern, the Dalmatian was crossbred with various Pointer breeds (Sniff! Sniff! What did I tell you…all mutts the lot of them!).

Conversely the lack of trait-selective breeding and a diverse gene pool in the mutt makes such dogs so much healthier and more robust than their purebred counterparts! Thus unless you're going to develop your own dog breed, if all you're looking for in a dog is a pet, do yourself, your pocket as well as the millions of dogs on death row a favor and adopt a dog from a shelter! Trust me, they make excellent pets. (Shelters cannot house dogs forever and each year more than 7,000,000 cats and dogs are euthanized!)

Verdict: Hmmm…the lowly mutt. At last! A dog without pretensions!

Designer Dog Breeds

Have you ever wondered what "exactly" could be the reason why does your dog bark, pull on the leash, lunge, growl, attack, shiver, whimper, shy away or is dying to play when faced with other dogs that he is not familiar with?

Here are all the reasons:

• You don't have the right timing, right technique, or the right training tool that can get your dog under your complete control. If a certain tool stops working or doesn't even seem to faze your dog anymore, try another one. Use what works!

• You never thought socializing your dog with other dogs was really important or even possible. So you kept putting it off and now you finally admit that this has become a serious issue!

• You have been avoiding any dog you came across by changing routes on your walks, or by walking your dog really late at night or super early in the morning.

• Your training foundation is weak or even worse, you have no foundation. Meaning, your dog doesn't even listen to you that well in private or in your home. So why would he all of sudden behave like a perfect angel around dogs that he doesn't know or doesn't feel comfortable with?

• Your dog USED to be friendly around dogs, but you slacked off on being involved on dog activities, daily walks, etc. And now, all of sudden your dog doesn't know exactly how to behave around dogs he hasn't met before.

• Your dog, or perhaps the other dog, isn't spayed/neutered and they are dying to get it on and prove themselves. Jealousy also causes dogs to act aggressive toward one another.

• Your dog whimpers to trick you into thinking that all it wants to do is play, and when you get close to the other dog, all of sudden it charges for the kill. Very sneaky!

• You keep on patting your dog in an attempt to calm her down and by saying, "It's OK. It's okaaaaaaay. Nooooo...seeeee.... It's a nice doggie." But this doesn't send the right message. In fact by doing so, you are "encouraging" your dog to keep on acting aggressively. This might work on some humans, but it never works on dogs. So do not pat or keep on massaging your dog while she is constantly lunging and growling at other dogs. This translates to: "Go ahead. Kill 'em." Even if you say "NO" in between, you are still not being crystal clear with your message.

• You misread your dog's or other dogs' body language. Sometimes when owners hold the leash tightly, this makes the dogs seem bigger, more tense, nervous, dominant and sometimes even a bit aggressive. Often you notice an owner's dog is completely relaxed, yet the owner acts scared and desperately tries to pull the dog close to her. This makes the dog appear taller, more tense, with his head up and chest out, which reads a very confrontational gesture to other dogs. So please don't wrap the leash around your hand three times by anticipating a dogfight.

• Your dog always lunges and attacks other dogs and doesn't really know how to behave. Like a barbarian, it's totally natural to him to act like a maniac. Basically your dog is thinking, "It doesn't really matter if the other dog is small, big, black, white, friendly or aggressive. I always lose it when I see other dogs. It's fun and it keeps me alive. I have that spice in me. Rrrrrruf!"

• You have a poor attitude and might even be prejudiced or scared of certain breeds. And guess what? Dogs never miss this and will try to protect you or at least try to scare the other dog. Maybe you hate certain breeds and your dog or the other dogs sense it from your energy, body language, or the fact that you totally changed direction, walked on the other side of the street, or picked up your small dog, hiding him from the rest of the world.

• Your dog never lost a dog fight in his entire life and always managed to scare, bully and lunge at dogs and actually get away with it. He probably sees himself as undefeated. The bigger the other dog, the more of a challenge; the bigger the fight, the better the pay per view.

• Your dog has been attacked by a dog in the past and got injured badly which resulted in him losing trust and confidence in you. You see, when you couldn't protect your dog from another dog attacking it, your poor dog had to find a way to protect himself. So now it anticipates another dog attack. This is why now he acts tough to scare the other dogs away. Can you blame him?

• Certain dogs provoke your dog more than others. See if you can find any pattern. Is your dog getting aggressive more toward males, females, puppies, adults, small dogs, black dogs, white dogs, fluffy dogs with floppy ears, pointy eared dogs, or even dogs that are not neutered. How about their owners? See if you notice any pattern with them. Some dogs love a challenge and prefer to fight the biggest dogs they can find. Some can't stand the small dogs' bark, and the fact that they are more spoiled than bigger dogs, and probably see them as Costco's appetizers.

• You've been letting your dog constantly mark on walks and thought it was normal and harmless. Now when your dog sees another dog in your neighborhood, he gets upset and tries to defend his territory. Just as your dog is overprotective of your house and your yard, he now thinks he owns the entire neighborhood just because he peed in every corner and every bush around it. How dare another dog walk in his hood!

• Something or even someone has irritated your dog, and now he decides to let it out on another dog. Be honest. Don't YOU pick on someone or at your loved ones when you aren't in a good mood? There you go. Your dog has learned it from you!

• Your dog is dying to play and interact with the other dog, but doesn't really know HOW. So he gets mad at you, mad at the other dog, at the leash, at your training tool and at the world! This could be a dog that once he manages to get loose, will lick the other dog to death to show his affection. Most dogs when they want to play, just pull on the leash, whimper, wag their tail happily, or maybe bark and whine in excitement. Not your dog. And it's really hard to know for sure exactly what he'll do, when he finally manages to get to the other dog. Will he play or go for the kill? And who's brave enough to find out?

• Your dog gets aggressive only when he is leashed. This might be another form of fear or frustration an attempt to keep the other dogs away. Or your dog notices that when he acts this way, you and the other dog owner walking another dog automatically pull back and don't let them get close to each other. Your dog knows that he can't do much while being leashed and his movements are limited. Therefore, it's much safer to act like a maniac. Basically each bark and growl translates to: "Let me go. Let me go, Mommy. I can take him. Let me show you what I can do. Let me put him on the news for you."

• Your dog is using your "other" dog as a shield/back up and knows it gives her more power when they attack as a pack. These dogs may walk politely one-on-one, but never as a team.

Conclusion: One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is that they automatically assume that if their pooch loves some dogs, that it will remain dog-friendly with all breeds of dogs for the rest of his life. The truth is, some will, but most WON'T. You must be able to get your dog's full attention around friendly dogs, aggressive dogs, hyper dogs, small dogs, big dogs, fluffy dogs, and male or female dogs.

It's like a serial killer. They rarely go on a killing spree of their friends or relatives. It's always the poor complete strangers.