Water circulation is essential in any aquarium, to ensure proper filtration, prevent the formation of anoxic or low-temperature regions, and deliver nutrients to stationary organisms. Power heads and aerators often provide sufficient circulation for a basic aquarium. In a planted aquarium, however, the water surface should be left undisturbed as much as possible to prevent loss of precious carbon dioxide and such devices should not be used.

Water pumps provide the necessary circulation both within the tank and through the filtration system, without unnecessary gas exchange. In a typical planted aquarium, water flows passively to the pump from a submerged intake where it is then propelled through the filter(s), and returned to the tank through an outlet below the water surface. The function of a water pump in a planted aquarium is exactly the same as that of the heart in the human body: pumping water rather than blood through a filter instead of the kidneys and liver. This analogy underscores the critical importance of the water pump in sustaining the health of a planted aquarium.

Not surprisingly, there are several types of aquarium water pumps to choose from, suitable for different types of tanks and budgets (see our selection at Julie's Pet Market). While perhaps not a glamorous part of setting up a planted aquarium, the selection of a water pump is one of the most crucial tasks to ensure a successful experience. Several criteria should be considered.

1) Flow rate. Water pump flows are rated in gallons per hour (gph) under free-flow conditions. For example, a 100 gph pump will circulate all the water in a 50 gallon tank twice in an hour. The presence of a filter (and its condition) will reduce actual flow. It is important to pick a pump with sufficient flow to ensure proper filtration. Conversely, an excessive water flow will turn your tank into a chaotic whirlpool. Usually, the filter manufacturer will specify the minimum flow rate needed for the water pump. The selected pump should exceed the minimum flow rate, but be comparable to it

2) Durability. A water pump is one of the few devices with moving parts in an aquarium, and therefore subject to wear and tear. Some pumps (e.g. magnetic drive) are designed without internal seals that can become corroded. This is more important for saltwater tanks, but well worth considering for a planted aquarium.

3) Heat generation. The electric motor generates heat that is transmitted to the water. Too much heat may contribute to wear and tear and is undesirable when you need to keep water temperature below a certain level.

4) Power consumption. A pump operates continuously and along with lights it is one of the main contributors to the energy costs of a planted aquarium. Prefer pumps with lower energy demands to keep costs down.

5) Noise level. Unless the pump will operate fully immersed, noise from the water pump is not to be underestimated as a factor in the enjoyment of your planted aquarium. You can often find information on noise levels on the manufacturer's web site.

In general, you should select the best quality pump you can afford. There are fewer sources of headaches in an aquarium worse than a poor pump: noise, overheating, and leakages occurring at the least convenient time can send you scrambling for a replacement. Having to replace a faulty pump - even with another poor one - after just a few months of operation makes this choice a false economy. The selection of water pumps offered at Julie's Pet Market includes only quality products to avoid you such problems.

If you are trying to developthe optimal environment for your freshwater fish, you're going to want to get the ideal freshwater aquarium water pumps. Your fish will need the best freshwater aquarium pump that you can pay for so that they can get the air and nourishment that they need. They are depending on you to provide them with an environment that is as close to their natural environment as they can get.

Aquarium pumps circulateair throughout your tank to supply your fish with oxygen in a healthy way. Pumps also insure that the water is flowing and moving through the filter. Different aquarium water pumps will effectively do the job of eliminating contaminants and germs from your fish's water. These contaminants can include uneaten fish food and fish excrement. Aquarium pumps can be connected both outside and inside of the tank. Internal pumps are called submersible and external tanks are simply called external.

Aquarium pumps must be supported by a power source that will enable them to create a certain degree of heat in the water. When buying your pump, you can select the wattage most appropriate for the breed of fish that you are caring for.

If you have a small to regular sized aquarium, you will only need one pump. With a large aquarium, some people feel safer having an more pump--used as a backup pump to provide extra power to just be available in case the central pump crashes.

The submersible aquarium pumps hang inside the aquarium close to the top of the unit. They are completely water-proof and usually made of plastics that are safe for your fish like polypropylene. At www.JuliesPetMarket.com they offer aquarium pumps in materials that are safe for you animals.

Aquarium pumps will often have filter mechanisms as well. External aquarium pumps are installed on the outside of the aquarium. There is a tube that connects the pump to the water in the bowl. The tube furnishes the tank water with pressure. External aquarium pumps are best used with smaller aquariums. They don't provide enough pressure and filtering for larger units. It is essential to make sure that you choose the right aquarium pump for your tank.

You want your aquarium pump to have the proper turnover rate that is healthy for your freshwater fish. If the turnover rate of your pump is too low, your fish won't have a reliable constant supply of clean water and air. If you have a closed aquarium, you will need an air pump with a pretty high turnover rate.

Your fish need the proper air and filtering. If they do not have these chief things, they will not survive. Many people make the mistake of thinking that fish are a non-maintenance pet to have. This is not true. Though fish can be low-maintenance pets, there are still some basic things that they require. You must make sure to use the ideal aquarium pump for your needs. On the other end of the spectrum, don't overdo it. If you buy an aquarium pump that is too large and fancy for your tank, it will create an extreme amount of in your tank. Your fish will die from this.

The best thing to do when you're in doubt is to find out the appropriate aquarium pump size from a qualified fish tank vendor or supplier like www.JuliesPetMarket.com which specializes in knowing the critical things when it comes to your aquarium pump needs. They have a friendly staff that has a lot of experience with all species of freshwater fish and their care.

Water Pump

Cold air is streaming out of the water pump that is connected to our air conditioner condenser.?

Our compressor is outside and our condenser is in the basement. The condensation water has a pump attached to it that pumps the water to the outside where it drains.

There is an additional pipe coming off of the pump that has cold air blowing out of it when the air conditioner is on. I'm guessing that it is an emergency overflow valve, but is it normal for cold air to be streaming out of this? It seems like we are losing a lot of nice cold air into our basement!

The drain pipe going in to the condensate pump is supposed to have a trap on it to prevent air leaving the blower area through the drain. I am guessing you don't have one.

I have never seen a second pipe like that. I would guess it was added to fix the fact the blowing air was spilling out water from the pump. They treated the symptom not the cause.

And it could be even if a trap is there the backpressure in the ductwork is high enough to still blow air through the trap. That is a bigger problem to deal with other than making sure all your vents are open.

Good Luck.

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A water well pump is useful in many situations, not only is it an excellent way to get water from a shallow well, but a lightweight, manual hand pump is a great addition to any emergency kit too as it can be used after a disaster to get fresh water from shallow wells.

A product like this is made to be lightweight and portable with PVC construction. In addition to weighing very little, PVC pipes are made from plastic, so this eliminates rusting or corroding over time with multiple exposures to water. A water well pump constructed out of PVC piping should not be looked at as being of a lower quality than those made of heavy metal.

PVC Pumps are known to outlast ten million pumping cycles. The fact is that the product does not wear out after ten million cycles, but rather it has been determined that the same amount of water can be delivered after the ten millionth pump as on the first one -- all this with hardly any detectable wear when deconstructed and examined. Based on durability, a water well pump constructed out of PVC piping cannot be beat.

Speed is another important characteristic of choosing a high quality water well pump. 20 to 35 liters per minute can be expected to be produced with selected pumps. The range given here is dependent upon the depth of the pump and the speed the pumper operates at. You can expect water to be delivered to the vessel on both the up and down strokes so no effort on your part is wasted. Pumps are designed to utilize the legs in addition to the arms so tiring does not occur as quickly. A pump is functional enough that even children can pump it.

Understandably, the most beneficial aspect of a PVC water well pump is the inexpensive and lightweight nature of it, yet the fact that is has many durable qualities, as well. With no parts to rust, corrode or wear out, this kind of pump can last for a lifetime of daily use or make a great storage item in case of an emergency. Installation of a 52-foot pump is easily completed by two people working together in only a quarter of an hour. There is no additional plumbing or piping required to begin the use of the water well pump immediately.

The award winning New Zealand Pump Company has been manufacturing the ingeniously simple Ezi-action Drumpumps since 1991. Our chemical resistant, FDA compliant, Japanese Food Hygiene Approved Ezi action Drumpumps and Ezi-action Safety Measures have been proven around the world for safety and reliability for hand pumping from drums and containers. Our plastic drum pumps are resistant to a wide range of chemicals. They will pump viscous fluids and are suitable for use with strong acids and alkalis, oils and lubricants.

Markets and sectors around the world in agriculture, commercial cleaning and maintenance, industrial and food manufacturing, are benefiting from the innovative, dispensing technology that is the patented Ezi-action Drumpumps. By using the ruggedly constructed polypropylene Ezi-action Drumpumps to dispense liquids by hand from drums and containers you and your customers will be working smarter. Ezi-action Drumpumps and Safety Measures are reliable, cost effective and safer.

http://www.nzpump.com/

Submersible Water Pump

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Submersible water pump in aquarium?

I found a small submersible water pump for pond decorations or birdbaths in my garage. It's about the size of three decks of cards stacked on top of each other.

Would there be any harm/benefit of putting this into a 55 gal fw community tank?

well it depends, do you have any small fish? and how is the water cycled in the pump? it needs to be protected so that fish dnt obviously get sucked. before you add it in tho need it submerged in a bucket of water and add several teaspoons of salt; that will kill all the bacteria that may have grown on and inside the pump. leave it in there for minimum 24 hours (just to be sure).

VIDEO 1 of 5 - Simple Pump - Engineered to be Simple, Durable & Affordable


Ponds Water Pump
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Pond water getting a bit green despite filter & pump?

Can I run hose pipe water into my pond?
Is it harmful, thanks.
Test it how?

Test that water first. I personally use water straight from the hose because I have well water and know my water quality is ideal without conditioner. Otherwise I would not recommend it.

Water becomes green due to excess light and/or nutrients. Obviously with a pond you can't avoid exposure to the sun, unless you construct some sort of shelter above the pond, but you can avoid the nutrient side of this-
-Always remove uneaten food.
-Be sure that your pond is not overstocked.
-Net any leaves that fall into the pond.
-Be certain that your filter is up to par for your tank size.
-Regularly test your water quality- high nitrates encourage algae growth.
-Or, the best possibility, which is what I did, is to purchase a uv sterilizer.

~A water quality test kit. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, chlorine, hardness, pH, etc. Most pet stores offer free water testing, but I would recommend purchasing a kit of your own.

Once the pond water goes through the filtering process, it's got to get back into the pond, right? Right.

How do we do this?

Traditionally in Koi pond build designs, a pipe is installed into the side of the pond. A jet of water comes out of the pipe to circulate air into the pond. That's easy enough to understand, right? Good.

The problem with this system (you knew it was coming, didn't you?) is that a pipe sticking out of anywhere is just another opportunity for your fish to find something to hurt themselves with.

Not that Koi are masochistic - it's just that during a feeding or spawning frenzy, they tend to get excited and well, they might just not see the pipe.

An alternative to this Koi-kabob nightmare is to incorporate a Koi pond build design that cuts the pipe flush to the wall opposite to the skimmer and settlement chamber. Problem solved.

One of the most effective ways to oxygenate the pond water is through a venturi. Most Koi keepers use this method of getting oxygen back into the pond water.

What is a Venturi?

Simply put, a venturi is a small pipe. One end of it is attached to the water return pipe close to where it shoots the water into the pond. The other end of the venturi is exposed to the air.

As the water flows through the return pipe from the filter, it sucks air down the venturi, mixing oxygen into the water that's going back into the pond. It's a very efficient Koi pond build design and an effective way of oxygenating the pond water using nothing but the flow rate and applying the laws of physics.

The faster the water flows through the return pipe, the more air is sucked in and mixed into the water.

Keeping that in mind, if the venturi isn't properly placed, you might not be able to see your fish because of all the bubbles produced by the pipe. Also, venturis can also produce a lot of noise - but that can be fixed by plugging the air end of the tube with a piece of low-density foam. The foam still lets the air in but muffles the noise - oh, and it keeps the bugs from falling in and clogging the pipes.

We recommend a Koi pond build design using a dedicated air pump for aeration of your pond water for two reasons:

1. Having a dedicated air pump ensures water oxygenation even when the main pump fails. It's heartbreaking to lose your fish to a pump failure that could have been prevented by installing a dedicated air pump.

2. You can put it anywhere. You can position the pump so that it is camouflaged and still delivering an adequate amount of oxygen into the water. The best part is you can adjust the positioning of the pump so that your view of your beautiful fish is completely unobstructed.

You Can't Have Too Much Air...or can you?

A Koi pond build design that incorporates a lot of air getting into the pond is good. It keeps the Koi happy, the plants happy, and everything else happy. But do not, under any circumstances, induce pressurized air into the system!

How does air get pressurized? Sometimes when a pump sucks air in, it compresses the air into the water. This ends up super saturating the water. When breathed in by fish, super saturated water releases tiny gas bubbles inside the body of the fish.

These bubbles end up clogging fine capillaries in the fins, which leads to fin rot, and other bacterial infections that should be avoided.

So make sure your pump is working properly and not sucking air in.

Water Returns and Dead Spots in a Koi pond build design.

Taking advantage of the natural flow of water returning to the pond through the return pipes to help circulate the water in the pond is a generally a good thing. But like everything else about Koi keeping, there are stipulations to this seemingly simple idea.

First, pick a direction that you want water to circulate and point the return pipes that way. Remember not to position your pipes too shallow or too deep. You can end up with dead spots in your pond - areas where water doesn't move so it turns stagnant.

An ideal depth for the water return pipe in a Koi pond build design is about 300-600mm below the water surface. This is also a great depth for helping clean out "tricky" areas where solid waste tends to build up.

Position your deep water return pipe so that it is not aimed directly at the bottom drains because you're going to end up re-filtering the same water over and over again while the rest of the pond gets stagnant.

A really fun "side effect" of having a deep water return pipe is that the Koi can use it as an underwater treadmill. Koi love to swim against the current and the pipe gives them just that. Please remember that Koi "slow down" in winter and may get annoyed if the current is too strong.

The main goal in your Koi pond build design is to re-circulate or turn over the pond water at a consistent rate to avoid over-taxing the filtration system. The fun part just comes naturally.

Jessica Arons specializes in Koi fish care and is currently working with the Koi Fish School team. For more great Koi Pond Build design advice visit The Koi Fish School today.


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i have a small cold water aquarium with pump and filter but it gets murky so quickly?

is there anything i can do to keep it clean for longer. its cleaned out completely about once a fortnight and a tenth of the ware changed weekly. there are five small fish in there. please help cos it looks disgusting....thanx

It's possible the tank is over stocked and this could be the cause of the problem, but even if not I would suggest you change your maintainance routine. It's possible that the tank is getting cloudy because it's too clean. I know that may not make much sense, but it's true. You need a certain amount of bacteria to keep the water clear and cleaning completely removes this bacteria.

Never clean it completely. Change about 25% of the water once a week and clean the gravel as you do so. A gravel vacuum from the pet shop is the easiest way to do this. Clean the filter and put in new carbon each time you clean your tank.

Try this for a few weeks and see if it doesn't clear up and stay clear for you.

MM

However, today we know much more about corals. For starters, corals are animals and not plants, as people used to believe earlier. As they are animals, they can follow animalistic eating patterns, which mean selecting their own food and ingesting what they can eat. They are quite capable of following eating trends as most animals do, and hence feeding corals in the right way becomes just a matter of trying and testing out different foods with them.

If you are direct feeding your corals, this is what you must do. You can feed your corals directly if they have visible tentacles and an oral orifice. In that case, they will probably ingest big sized food. Common foods for corals are plankton in frozen form, phytoplankton and even pieces of fish, krill, shrimp, squid and clams. If you can spare the time and effort, you can make some food on your own for your corals by referring to coral feeding manuals that are available online.

Of course, it is beneficial to know what species your coral belongs to because different coral species have different eating habits. Corals belonging to families such as Faviidae, Mussidae, Fungidae and Trachyphyllidae can be fed large foods that are available around the house. The popular home aquarium coral, Lobophyllia is of such type. It does not become a problem even if you feed the wrong food to such corals, because foods they cannot eat will be regurgitated from their oral aperture, or their tentacles would not reach out at the food at all.

Many coral species, especially the smaller polyps, are capable of fending for themselves in an aquarium tank that contains other live organisms. They will be able to absorb dissolved organic substances from the surrounding water, and even the residual and waste food of the other organisms in the tank, especially those things that the fish leave behind. Another favorite food for the smaller corals is the bacteria that are present on plankton.

Algae that grow on corals provide them with an indirect food supply when they prepare their own food with the help of lighting. These algae belong to the Zooxanthallae family, and they make a symbiotic association with the corals. This type of feeding works better for smaller to midsized corals, and is possible only when there is a proper supply of lighting into the aquarium.

There are certain important cautions that you must know when you are feeding corals. One thing to note is that corals will regurgitate indigestible food, and that might increase the nitrate content of the tank. This could be toxic to the corals and the other organisms that exist in the tank. However, you can answer this issue by making regular water changes in your tank. You will also have to make arrangements for the water to rinse the corals periodically, which would require an aquarium pump and filter system.

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Water Pump Powerhead
Do i need surface agitation in my reef tank?

i have a 29 gallon biocube with softies. i'm thinking of buying a koralia powerhead. right now the stock pump doesn't have enough surface agitation, so i have an oily layer on the surface of the water. I have no skimmer and am open to buying one too. I know some people have put a koralia 2 in a 29 gallon biocube, and their's is doing fine. what size koralia should i put in my tank? also what kind of skimmer should i use? my budget is 20$-50$. please only answers from people who know about corals, water quality, and water current.
My budget is for the skimmer. with the way my decor is set up, the current is sort of going in a toilet like fashion. should i place my powerhead in the same direction, or have it resist and make a funky like current?

It is very important to have surface agitation in any fish tank, more importantly a reef tank. Surface agitation helps in the oxygen exchange. However, I think you know the science of it, that's why you're asking the question.

As for the Koralia pump or the skimmer. Not a difficult choice. The budget you're working with is not enough for a skimmer. So get the Koralia. I provided a link below to a great website for Koralia's and lots of other reef/saltwater equipment. The name is Saltwater Critters.

Best of luck with your reef. It sounds like you're headed in a good direction, asking questions!!!!

swimmer

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Sponge filtration is an often overlooked type of filtration for freshwater aquarium or ponds and even marine aquariums . Many persons look past their simplicity as ineffective, but therein lies their quality. I have used them for my aquarium maintenance for 27 plus years with excellent results. Here then is a list of their attributes:

[1] Simple to use, most run on very basic air pumps or powerheads. One of the best beginner aquarist filters due simplicity and cost. But sponge filters are also popular with breeders and research facilities, as they are very efficient yet simple filters.

[2] Excellent biological filtration, they are very porous and can maintain very large aerobic bacterial colonies in proportion to the space they occupy. Please note that not all materials used for sponge filters are equal, there are patents because of this! The Hydro Sponge Filter holds several patents for sponge filters for this very reason!

[3] Mechanical filtration, although they are not the best mechanical filters, they still do a good job for their small size and make excellent secondary or primary filters when used in combination with other filters such as HOB, canister, or internal filters.

[4] Very few "dead" areas trapping pockets of noxious bacteria, unlike undergravel filters and even wet/dry filters (which in my experience are over rated).

[5] Simple to clean, simply remove the sponge and squeeze or rinse in old aquarium water or dechlorinated tap water. The advantage here is the aquarist is less likely to ignore cleaning the filter (unlike many complex filters), which can lead to organic build up, increasing nitrates and lowering KH and ph.

[6] Sponge filters are great in marine aquariums in a couple of different ways; one way is in a sump (sometimes sideways) with a small power head pump (such as a Via Aqua 480); the other (usually in a reef application) was inside the aquarium with either an air pump or power head. The beauty of either application is they are simple to rinse out with used aquarium water, which in the reef application was especially useful in that I could dispose of allot of debris before it cycled and produced Nitrates. They are an excellent compliment to "live rock" filtered reef aquariums.

[7] Probably the best choice of filtration for breeding tanks, hospital tanks, and even discus aquariums, due to the fact that they do not "suck" in baby or weak fish or attract noxious bacteria.

[8] For cichlid breeding they excell, as they are not easily disturbed by cichlids tendency to dig.

[9] Inexpensive

[10] Now available in larger sizes for aquariums over 60 gallons.

[11] Sponge filters can even be used in ponds. With the "Hydro Pond Filter", simply attach a power head pump (such as a Via Aqua 2600), then run your return line wherever you like (waterfall, ECT). Or the Hydro Pond II can be run off a simple air pump. These filters can work on ponds up to 1500 gallons (or more with additional units).

[12] There also are sponge filters that are used as a "Pre-Filter" for intakes of canister, wet/dry, power filters and more. They offer increased bio-filtration to your existing system, as well as protection from baby fish, plants, or anemones from being sucked into the intake of your existing filter.
These pre-filter sponges are especially useful for HOB (power filters) as they increase the bio capacity (far more than bio wheels in experiments I have done) and retain the aerobic bio filtering bacteria during filter media changes. With out these Sponge pre-filters, HOB filters are poor to fair bio filters, with them they are excellent.

[13] Sponge filters are great for planted aquariums, they do not interfere with root structures and maintain a biological balance that ideal for planted aquariums.

About the Author:

By Carl Strohmeyer

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/sponge_filtration.html

http://groups.msn.com/EverythingAquatic

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Sponge Filtration for Aquariums and Ponds; Why Sponge Filters Should Not Be Overlooked As Filters for your Aquarium Or for your Pond