Sterilizer Replacement

Problem with overgrowth of Algae in my aquarium?

Hi, I have over 7 years of experience with aquariums. Right now I have a problem I can't seem to solve, but I have an idea. I have a 125 gallon aquarium and about a month ago the light bulb that came with the hood died, so I had to buy a replacement bulb. Ever since I put that replacement bulb in, there has been a green coating of algae on all the rocks (including gravel) and the acrylic sides of the aquarium. I have a UV Sterilizer in the aquarium, so I thought that would kill the over growth but it did not. So I bought another bulb for the aquarium that did not say it was good for plants, and it's doing the same thing. Is there any way I can stop this? I don't keep the aquarium light on for more then 6-7 hours a day. HELP. Also, can too much algae harm the fish?

Thank you

heres is one algae guide...

http://theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

sounds like it's time for a black out.....

Total darkness for about 3 days may do the trick as it will kill every algae spore and then a 40% water change.. No feeding the fish, nothing.

It's not blue green algae is it? a little slimy..you can pull pieces of it up?, that s is really a bacteria..still easy to fix but an entirely different problem. Again black out recipe.

Is your tank getting indirect light from a window or something?

Is there uneaten food creating high nutrient water?

keeping up with a good water change schedule?

doesn't really matter what bulb you pick, using a bulb for plants with no plants won't grow algae in low nutrient water and same applies for the opposite.

In order for plants to out compete algae for nutrients then need to photosynthesize at an optimal level. Thats what a 6700k plant bulb allows them to do. Get a bulb outside that spectrum and the plants stall.

Some algae is a sign of a healthy tank but alot means theres is an excess of something in the water and these guys are feeding on it but the whole cycled can be stoped with a blackout. Algae need some form of light to survive.

you would have to grow alot to hit dangerous levels.

keep us posted..

good luck

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Is Your Pelton Crane Sentry Heat Light Not coming on? Is the sterilizer not heating up? It could be something as simple as your door switch.

How The Door Switch Works

Your door locking mechanism on the Pelton Crane Sentry consists of a "Handle" on the door and a "Catch Block" on the face of the unit. Closing the door and sliding the handle locks the door in place tightly, sealing the chamber, so you can start your sterilizing procedure.

The Handle contains a cam (or door bolt) with a groove in it. This grove engages with a "shoulder" in the catch which locks the door. If you look inside your catch, you will see a small, flat strip of metal protruding inside it. This is the lever (or actuator) for your door switch. When your door is closed and the handle slid all of the way to the right, the lever is moved and actuates the switch.

Troubleshooting The Switch

When the switch is defective, the HEAT ON light will not come on and the chamber will not get hot.

Here is a simple test you can perform to see if it is the problem. No Tools Needed - Just a couple of minutes of your time

  1. Close the door, but do not lock it
  2. Turn the Bottom Knob To The "STERILIZE" mode
  3. After it has been on for a short period of time, reach inside the chamber and touch the wall on your left side.
  4. If the wall is getting warm, that means the top (or side) heating element is working
  5. While not necessary, if you were to touch the bottom of the chamber, you would find it is still cold - which indicates the main (or center) heating element is not receiving power
  6. Turn the Bottom Knob back to the off position

If you get these results, the door switch is your problem. And, instead of a $125.00 + service call (plus parts), the replacement switch will only cost you about $17.00 -and installing it is easy. Here are your easy, step-by-step directions:

Removing The Defective Door Switch

Note: This procedure should only be performed after you have your replacement switch in hand.

Tools Needed: A Flat Blade (Standard) Screwdriver

Precautions: Make Sure Autoclave is Turned Off & Unplugged

  1. Remove the 3 screws on each side of the cabinet, by turning them in a counter-clockwise direction with your screwdriver
  2. Lift off the cabinet and set it aside.
  3. Find the door switch by looking on the inside of the front panel where the door catch is located (it is a little red box located right next to the chamber mounting bracket)
  4. Make a note of the color of wires & their locations on the switch (If factory wiring is in place, the gray wire goes on the tab next to the chamber, the yellow wire goes to the other rear tab - next to the gray one) and the double (2) white wire connector to the tab on the side.
  5. Remove the wires by pulling the connectors away from the switch by hand
  6. Remove the 2 screws holding the switch in place with your screwdriver, by turning in a counter-clockwise direction.
  7. Remove The Switch

Installing The New Door Switch

  1. Insert the Stem from the new switch (the actuating lever) into the door catch from inside the unit.
  2. Secure to the mounting bracket with the 2 screws you removed.
  3. Replace the wiring with the connectors by pushing them onto the tabs of the door switch (gray to the tab next to the chamber-yellow on the next tab - and the double (2) white wire connector to the side of the new door switch
  4. Replace the cabinet and fasten to the base with the 3 screws you removed from each side.
  5. Plug it in and set the bottom knob to Sterilize. The light should come on and the chamber should begin to warm up.
  6. Turn It Off. Your unit is now ready to go back into operation

For Even More Tips and Replacement Parts visit us at AllClaveParts.com.

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